BANYAN

Some small updates as I have been somewhat delayed/distracted rebuilding a new computer.
 
WRT to the Contract calling for 'Cranes" (see post #513), I decided to go with a gooseneck davit, as nothing more complicate would have been need.   The photo shows one in situ with a temporary ash bucket.  I will replace that with a metal one  (wood or canvas I think will have been burnt when removing ash with possible hot embers still in it).
 

 
I have also made a start on the bowsprit.  I have shaped it (and the combined jibbooms - but the latter broke ) and I now am in the process of adding fittings (heel stop etc) which is not shown, and starting on the ironwork.  The photos show the Bowsprit Cap in two stages of its manufacture.  I used a jig (two dowels appropriately spaced in some scrap wood to hold the brass tube while I soldered them together and added the sides, then filed them.   The first photo sows the assembly after it has been parted off with a dental cutting (separation) disk  (much stronger and better than the standard Dremel disks)). 
 
I have soldered on the base lug with two hole for the Bobstay (after hole) and for the martingale (forward hoe), and two of the side lugs for guys etc.  Two more lugs to be added, plus two 'horns' at the top for the man ropes.  The side lugs are copper wire which I am filing flat after soldering to give the impression of flat forged lugs.  Very fiddly at this scale but getting there without blowing the lot apart as I solder the lugs into drilled holes (fingers crossed  and touching wood as I say that).  I still need to work out how I will add the Jackstaff bracket; then a LOT of cleaning up before blackening.
 
The form and structure of the Cap is based on drawings by Underhill.
 
cheers
 
Pat
 

 

Nice vessel to model James; with your skills it should develop into a very nice model.  Monitoring with interest
 
cheers
 
Pat

Hopefully you may be able to get the model out of 'detention' John so that you can work on her at home.
 
Good luck and best health to all!
 
Pat

Just show them the John Cleese 'Meetings B......y  Meetings short movie - John   Nice progress albeit slow; the planking looks very good.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Slowly but surely she is taking form John, this will be nicely lined model.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Hi Keith, it is possible that the rounds were passed up to the upper deck through a hatch/trunk/hoist from the shell room.  It would make sense then that only a single greasing station would be required as the crew would grab the round from the hoist, grease it and pass it to the required gun station.  Could the device be a combined hoist/greasing station?  Not trying to complicate the matter, just a suggestion.
 
cheers
 
Pat

You must feed those 'galley slaves' / Workers well - nice production run (and fast)
 
At this rate you will be finished the ship before you know it; the crew may be another matter?
 
cheers
 
Pat
 

Very nice model !  The addition of the detail really makes it come to life.
 
Now, with a bit of trepidation, but in the spirit of helpfulness, seeing the care you've taken to research and to ensure the accuracy and quality of this interesting and important build, I'd like to offer a couple of comments, which you are, of course, free to ignore. They aren't offered as a criticism, but only to share some knowledge and experience which may be helpful.
 
1.  Masking tape isn't an archival material. The stuff has a bad habit of drying out and, well, just going to crap, sometimes in surprisingly short order. If it's well sealed and painted, it might survive, and it might not. 
 
2.  While the use of masking tape, nicely painted and weathered, may well represent "tar paper," the fact is that "tar paper" wasn't likely to have been used as a roofing material in Arabia's construction in 1853, or even later.  The first historically documented use of rudimentary tar paper was during the California Gold Rush which would place it sometime in the early to mid-1850's. It was used as a temporary water barrier on temporary buildings which weren't expected to survive beyond the time it took the surface mining in a given area to "play out." These were basically shacks, and nothing more. Being exposed to the elements, it did not last long and was frequently replaced as needed until needed no more. To my knowledge, it was never used alone as a roofing material on any vessel. Keep in mind that asphalt or bitumen, available only from surface deposits such as the La Brea Tar Pits in Los Angeles, CA, was a somewhat limited commodity at that time. Some was locally available in California then, but it was not until 1859 that oil was extracted from a drilled well in Titusville, PA. (Spelling the end of the whaling industry and the beginning of the petroleum industry.) Oil did not really come into its own as an industrial material until after the Civil War. 
 
"Roofing felt," however, which came along at the same period, was used as an intermediate water barrier on small boat decks and cabin tops of not only vessels, but also, quite commonly, railroad passenger coaches. It was never, however, the exposed surface of the roof to be covered. "Irish felt" (also called "ship's felt") was not a paper, as "tar paper" was, but a true felt, made of linen rag material. It was laid over a wooden tongue and groove roof or cabin top. It was then covered with canvas duck bedded in white lead paste spread over the felt which was copper tacked at the edges and then shrunk in place with boiling water. The wet canvas was then painted. This created a lasting waterproof surface which only required regular painting to maintain the watertight integrity of the system. Properly maintained, this sort of roof would last for twenty years or more before requiring replacement. 
 
The appearance of a canvassed roof or deck would be that of a smooth surface with the texture of painted canvas. (The more paint that was applied over time, the more the weave would be filled with paint and the smoother it would become, although it retained some texture because the paints of the time would chalk in the elements and slough off.) The canvas would be stitched in panels before being tacked down and, IIRC, the standard bolt width was 54", which would yield about a 48" panel, allowing for three inches on each side to permit a doubled, rolled stitched seam.
 
3.  While the archaeological artifacts may prove me wrong, I would hazard to guess that the cabin tops would never have been painted black, or the color of tar paper, but rather would have been painted light grey, as was the custom of the time and long afterwards. (Black and white were the two least expensive paint pigments at that time. when paint was mixed by painters from raw materials at the time the paint was applied. Colors, more expensive, were reserved for trim.) Grey would be preferred over white, as white would create a glare from the sun that would be hard on the helmsman's eyes and actually can create a type of "snow-blindness" for crew working on it. Black would not have been used because of its heat-absorbing quality. They had cabin stoves to keep warm in the winter, but there was no such thing as air conditioning and a black cabin top would have rendered the accommodations below uninhabitable in the summertime.
 
Note the "color" of the cabin top in the below photos.
 

 
 

 

 
 
Take it for what it's worth, or not. Hope it's helpful.

You must feed those 'galley slaves' / Workers well - nice production run (and fast)
 
At this rate you will be finished the ship before you know it; the crew may be another matter?
 
cheers
 
Pat
 

Lovely work, Pat. I'm very hamfisted with soldering. Your work leaves me awestruck.
 
Steven

Nice metal work Pat, I wish I had the skill sets to do likewise.  

I've now made the tholes and their sockets for the upper bank of oars. I worked out a way to mass produce them, which seems to have worked nicely.
 
A sheet of wood 0.5mm thick (25mm=1 inch at 1:50 scale) marked into strips, each of several sockets, with 0.38mm holes drilled for tholes. As it turned out there was a fair bit of wastage (ever tried to drill a 0.38mm hole in the exact middle of a strip of wood about 2mm wide with a hand-held electric drill?), so I had to make more strips later.

And cut into strips.

 
Ends tapered in the vertical dimension to make the sockets "hump-back" shaped, and edges smoothed off.

Tholes with a tenon at one end, cut to length and glued into the holes. Later I found it was better to cut the socket pieces apart before inserting the tholes.

So now I have 54 tholes and sockets, allowing a few spare in case of stuff-ups.

Next thing is to mark the thole positions on the gunwale to help determine where the uprights have to go for the pavesades (the railings that support the shields) so they don't foul the oars, and the same for the posts supporting the xylokastra (defensive wooden castles).
 
Steven 

Some small updates as I have been somewhat delayed/distracted rebuilding a new computer.
 
WRT to the Contract calling for 'Cranes" (see post #513), I decided to go with a gooseneck davit, as nothing more complicate would have been need.   The photo shows one in situ with a temporary ash bucket.  I will replace that with a metal one  (wood or canvas I think will have been burnt when removing ash with possible hot embers still in it).
 

 
I have also made a start on the bowsprit.  I have shaped it (and the combined jibbooms - but the latter broke ) and I now am in the process of adding fittings (heel stop etc) which is not shown, and starting on the ironwork.  The photos show the Bowsprit Cap in two stages of its manufacture.  I used a jig (two dowels appropriately spaced in some scrap wood to hold the brass tube while I soldered them together and added the sides, then filed them.   The first photo sows the assembly after it has been parted off with a dental cutting (separation) disk  (much stronger and better than the standard Dremel disks)). 
 
I have soldered on the base lug with two hole for the Bobstay (after hole) and for the martingale (forward hoe), and two of the side lugs for guys etc.  Two more lugs to be added, plus two 'horns' at the top for the man ropes.  The side lugs are copper wire which I am filing flat after soldering to give the impression of flat forged lugs.  Very fiddly at this scale but getting there without blowing the lot apart as I solder the lugs into drilled holes (fingers crossed  and touching wood as I say that).  I still need to work out how I will add the Jackstaff bracket; then a LOT of cleaning up before blackening.
 
The form and structure of the Cap is based on drawings by Underhill.
 
cheers
 
Pat
 

 

Some small updates as I have been somewhat delayed/distracted rebuilding a new computer.
 
WRT to the Contract calling for 'Cranes" (see post #513), I decided to go with a gooseneck davit, as nothing more complicate would have been need.   The photo shows one in situ with a temporary ash bucket.  I will replace that with a metal one  (wood or canvas I think will have been burnt when removing ash with possible hot embers still in it).
 

 
I have also made a start on the bowsprit.  I have shaped it (and the combined jibbooms - but the latter broke ) and I now am in the process of adding fittings (heel stop etc) which is not shown, and starting on the ironwork.  The photos show the Bowsprit Cap in two stages of its manufacture.  I used a jig (two dowels appropriately spaced in some scrap wood to hold the brass tube while I soldered them together and added the sides, then filed them.   The first photo sows the assembly after it has been parted off with a dental cutting (separation) disk  (much stronger and better than the standard Dremel disks)). 
 
I have soldered on the base lug with two hole for the Bobstay (after hole) and for the martingale (forward hoe), and two of the side lugs for guys etc.  Two more lugs to be added, plus two 'horns' at the top for the man ropes.  The side lugs are copper wire which I am filing flat after soldering to give the impression of flat forged lugs.  Very fiddly at this scale but getting there without blowing the lot apart as I solder the lugs into drilled holes (fingers crossed  and touching wood as I say that).  I still need to work out how I will add the Jackstaff bracket; then a LOT of cleaning up before blackening.
 
The form and structure of the Cap is based on drawings by Underhill.
 
cheers
 
Pat
 

 

Some small updates as I have been somewhat delayed/distracted rebuilding a new computer.
 
WRT to the Contract calling for 'Cranes" (see post #513), I decided to go with a gooseneck davit, as nothing more complicate would have been need.   The photo shows one in situ with a temporary ash bucket.  I will replace that with a metal one  (wood or canvas I think will have been burnt when removing ash with possible hot embers still in it).
 

 
I have also made a start on the bowsprit.  I have shaped it (and the combined jibbooms - but the latter broke ) and I now am in the process of adding fittings (heel stop etc) which is not shown, and starting on the ironwork.  The photos show the Bowsprit Cap in two stages of its manufacture.  I used a jig (two dowels appropriately spaced in some scrap wood to hold the brass tube while I soldered them together and added the sides, then filed them.   The first photo sows the assembly after it has been parted off with a dental cutting (separation) disk  (much stronger and better than the standard Dremel disks)). 
 
I have soldered on the base lug with two hole for the Bobstay (after hole) and for the martingale (forward hoe), and two of the side lugs for guys etc.  Two more lugs to be added, plus two 'horns' at the top for the man ropes.  The side lugs are copper wire which I am filing flat after soldering to give the impression of flat forged lugs.  Very fiddly at this scale but getting there without blowing the lot apart as I solder the lugs into drilled holes (fingers crossed  and touching wood as I say that).  I still need to work out how I will add the Jackstaff bracket; then a LOT of cleaning up before blackening.
 
The form and structure of the Cap is based on drawings by Underhill.
 
cheers
 
Pat
 

 

Some small updates as I have been somewhat delayed/distracted rebuilding a new computer.
 
WRT to the Contract calling for 'Cranes" (see post #513), I decided to go with a gooseneck davit, as nothing more complicate would have been need.   The photo shows one in situ with a temporary ash bucket.  I will replace that with a metal one  (wood or canvas I think will have been burnt when removing ash with possible hot embers still in it).
 

 
I have also made a start on the bowsprit.  I have shaped it (and the combined jibbooms - but the latter broke ) and I now am in the process of adding fittings (heel stop etc) which is not shown, and starting on the ironwork.  The photos show the Bowsprit Cap in two stages of its manufacture.  I used a jig (two dowels appropriately spaced in some scrap wood to hold the brass tube while I soldered them together and added the sides, then filed them.   The first photo sows the assembly after it has been parted off with a dental cutting (separation) disk  (much stronger and better than the standard Dremel disks)). 
 
I have soldered on the base lug with two hole for the Bobstay (after hole) and for the martingale (forward hoe), and two of the side lugs for guys etc.  Two more lugs to be added, plus two 'horns' at the top for the man ropes.  The side lugs are copper wire which I am filing flat after soldering to give the impression of flat forged lugs.  Very fiddly at this scale but getting there without blowing the lot apart as I solder the lugs into drilled holes (fingers crossed  and touching wood as I say that).  I still need to work out how I will add the Jackstaff bracket; then a LOT of cleaning up before blackening.
 
The form and structure of the Cap is based on drawings by Underhill.
 
cheers
 
Pat
 

 

Some small updates as I have been somewhat delayed/distracted rebuilding a new computer.
 
WRT to the Contract calling for 'Cranes" (see post #513), I decided to go with a gooseneck davit, as nothing more complicate would have been need.   The photo shows one in situ with a temporary ash bucket.  I will replace that with a metal one  (wood or canvas I think will have been burnt when removing ash with possible hot embers still in it).
 

 
I have also made a start on the bowsprit.  I have shaped it (and the combined jibbooms - but the latter broke ) and I now am in the process of adding fittings (heel stop etc) which is not shown, and starting on the ironwork.  The photos show the Bowsprit Cap in two stages of its manufacture.  I used a jig (two dowels appropriately spaced in some scrap wood to hold the brass tube while I soldered them together and added the sides, then filed them.   The first photo sows the assembly after it has been parted off with a dental cutting (separation) disk  (much stronger and better than the standard Dremel disks)). 
 
I have soldered on the base lug with two hole for the Bobstay (after hole) and for the martingale (forward hoe), and two of the side lugs for guys etc.  Two more lugs to be added, plus two 'horns' at the top for the man ropes.  The side lugs are copper wire which I am filing flat after soldering to give the impression of flat forged lugs.  Very fiddly at this scale but getting there without blowing the lot apart as I solder the lugs into drilled holes (fingers crossed  and touching wood as I say that).  I still need to work out how I will add the Jackstaff bracket; then a LOT of cleaning up before blackening.
 
The form and structure of the Cap is based on drawings by Underhill.
 
cheers
 
Pat
 

 

As good a 'solution' as any could determine, and it makes some sense Keith.
 
cheers
 
Pat

As good a 'solution' as any could determine, and it makes some sense Keith.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Thank you Eberhard, Pat, Keith, Michael, Gary and Richard. 
Strange times in which we live - today I had a conversation with a neighbour when we were both on opposite sides of the road, people pass in the park while maintaining a significant distance. Apparently dog food is in short supply - even the dogs seem to have caught the hoarding bug.
 
Anyway - on with the winches:-
The chain sprockets were made in two halves. The outer diameter was calculated based on measurements of the chain. Six scallops were cut out on the mill using the hex collet block. 

The halves were then parted off.

I then made sure the sprocket sizing was correct by fitting the chain.

The cable drum was then turned and a spigot was made on which to mount the components.

The winch was glued together with CA.

Small pins were then turned and glued in the holes of the break lugs. You can just about see the treads on the .040" rod passing through the lugs. The right hand one is fitted in the next photo.

The break hand wheel bracket was made having done a rudimentary sketch.

The compound vice came in handy for cutting the angles. 

The brackets were formed in tandem.

Before being slit off.

Hi all, after a short (ish) sojourn I am back at the modelling desk; a long list of 'honey please do' jobs and continued research (on the rigging) interrupted by the festive season is my excuse
 
The following shows the additional work that has been done.  The progress photo (before fitting the circular skylights) shows the broadside gun carriages loosely sited in their future position.   I cannot progress these until we finish printing the 3D barrels but unfortunately my mate helping me with that, has a few health issues and that must take priority.  I have the trunnion caps, tackles and breeching ropes ready to go once we are in a position to print the guns.  the pivot gun slide has also been made and all the pieces for the carriage which sits on top have been cut but not yet assembled.
 
    
 
The circular skylights were made from turned acrylic rod (8mm) and PE which I drew up and I had etched here in Melbourne.  The photos show the 'prototype skylight which has since been cleaned up a little more.  Al (alpayed on this forum - building the Danmark) turned these for me as I was doing something wrong and the rod kept melting on me.  These formed the base with the spigot being used as the locating pins and a small hole was drilled in the top while still in the lathe to accept a brass pin.  This pin is intended to represent a small rod and cover in the actual item that could be raised to allow ventilation through the skylight.  The sides were photo etched with the brass vertical bars etched deeper so that when the top and bottom were painted to represent the wooden parts, it looked like the bars were recessed.  The side were rolled and formed on a dowel then silver soldered for strength before painting. 
 
The conical part represents the bars over the top but at this scale it proved simply too difficult to include the wooden framing.  Overall I think they came out ok, but I am tempted to redo the tops as I could not get the 'exact' diameter of the formed cone to sit on top of the side pieces.  to the eye it looks fine, but a close inspection, especially through the camera shows they are not sitting uniformly on top of the side pieces.
 
cheers, and a very happy, healthy and safe 2020
 
Pat
 
    
 

Hi again folks, another small update.  I have started work on the anchors - Trotman Pattern.  The contract for Victoria specified 3 of these, two as Bowers and one as the stream, with the latter a little smaller/lighter.  These anchors were assessed by a Committee in 1852 and rated as the strongest/best holding anchors (28% better) yet the Admiralty did not deviate from their "Admiralty pattern".  These were an enhanced version of the Port/Hornibal pattern
The earlier style of this anchor had the rounded/ovalish shank and the straight iron stock; the bent arm iron stock was not introduced until about 1860.
 
The following photos show the construction of the first anchor from cut raw materials through to completed item.  The shank was shaped from a single piece of thick brass then the holes drilled and the slot cut.  The flukes were silver soldered to the shank then cleaned up.  the stock was made in two parts to enable the ball ends to be turned as they would not fit through the 1mm hole; I don't know how they did this in real life as the is a conical stopper on one side of the stock and a pin on the other - if you look real close you can see I managed to add that detail.  The hex head bolt and nut, and the shackle, were some purchased stock from another project, but fit perfectly for this job   The anchor was blackened with Birchwood Casey Brass Black (diluted to 25%)
 
The photos are in extreme close up as these are only 21mm long overall and as such show all the early scuffing from my filing before cleanup.  The next two should look a little better as my technique improves.
 
cheers
 
Pat
 
    
  

Nice to see you coming back to the 'wet' side Mark.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Hi Keith, a very interesting question.  1:120 - wow - respect!
 
I am a masochist of sorts in that I often let my ambitions/dreams get in the way of reality.  When it comes to detail, I feel that the more I can add the better (feel compelled as you say), but often I am forced into a reality check as there is only so much that can be achieved (especially with my amateurish skills) at this scale (let alone 1:120) - If I can do it it goes on and I will try many times before submitting to 'failure'. 
 
More often than not this is some minor/small detail on an item.  As an example, I am currently grappling with 'compressors' fitted to the pivot gun, very difficult as they are only 4mm x 2.5mm with rails/sides only .5mm thick.  These may end up being slightly oversized and only the basic form produced/used - time will tell.  The real trick I think is establishing some form of threshold as you have done and simply get on with it.
 
Thanks for looking in.
 
Pat