Gabek

Well my friends,  it is that time. I am going to mark this one finished. Made and attached the rudders, and finally  Captain Marvin Got his  pillows lol.
 
It's  all done, and we decided to add more wind to the sails.  So I saturated the sail with GAC 400, got the hair dryer, low heat, high wind, and using the hair dryer I blew it for about 10 minutes  . The sail turn out fine.

More wind lol 😆 
  So here are a few more final  pictures.
 
 Plus,  I would like to thank M S W for helping along the way. And a big thank you to the four other Sea of Galilee Boat  logs that I leaned on to finish.   
Bye for now see you soon 
BOB M.


I gave this boat to the first Mate,  she said she loves it. So I got a even bigger  grin on my face lol  bye for now 😅 

Thanks, Chris!
This is awesome information! I was already thinking of designing and printing some of my own parts, (resin printing is a hobby) but I may just give Darius some business as thanks for the fine work on this model design.  I still may print up some bollards and a few other details that look easy to produce.  
Clear skies and sharp tools, 
Gabe

Thanks, Chris!
This is awesome information! I was already thinking of designing and printing some of my own parts, (resin printing is a hobby) but I may just give Darius some business as thanks for the fine work on this model design.  I still may print up some bollards and a few other details that look easy to produce.  
Clear skies and sharp tools, 
Gabe

Thanks, Chris!
This is awesome information! I was already thinking of designing and printing some of my own parts, (resin printing is a hobby) but I may just give Darius some business as thanks for the fine work on this model design.  I still may print up some bollards and a few other details that look easy to produce.  
Clear skies and sharp tools, 
Gabe

First trip to the cottage.

Opening the Kit
First off, the instructions are very well laid out and the English translation from the original German is superb.  Everything comes in an A4 (?) booklet.  The printed parts are on several pages of thicker stock stapled in the centre of the booklet. I chose to open the staples and remove these pages for ease of cutting, etc. 
 

In the card model workshops I attended the presenters had said that parts like bulkheads, decks, false keel, etc, might need to be glued to thicker stock which you need to provide yourself.  H.M.V. has provided space on the printed pages to fold over and glue these parts in a double thickness. I highly recommend that you read several steps ahead carefully before proceeding with your build.  Assembly is done in numerical order but while the instructions are very clearly printed the diagrams are rather small and quite full. So, finding the next part number can take a bit of a search.  

The fine lines, the profusion of small parts, and different dashed lines that denote upward folds, downward folds, and glue locations can be a bit overwhelming at first.  It took me several readings and actual assembly of a few parts before I started making sense of what was going on in the diagrams and on the part assemblies.  Even studying ahead I actually missed cutting out two, tiny red hatched slots in bulkhead 8 which made things a bit bothersome later. (You'll see this soon.). 
 
There are labels in the instructions for where laser cut parts are substituted, but I found a few omissions only because I read ahead and double-checked against the list of laser cut parts parts.  I am very impressed with the quality of these parts and the documentation. 
 

Building begins
I brought a very small kit of tools:  Xacto blade knife, straight edge, Aleene's tacky glue, plastic swabs/applicators, insect pins, three sizes of clothes pins, and a couple of clay modelling tools to act as burnishers/shapers for creating curves in parts.

The waterline, centre keel and bulkheads needed to be doubled up and glued.  The plastic swabs worked very well as glue spreaders when laid flat and used like a roller/spreader. I practiced scoring these folds using the back of the 11A xacto blade.

 
I placed the folded parts under a stack of old magazines to help keep them flat.  Parchment paper was used to keep the magazines from sticking to the model. I left this overnight.


The next day was my first test of my cutting skill.  I found that taking two passes worked best.  A first, medium pressure pass acted like a jig for the second, firmer pass to cut through. The lines are about a blade width thickness and are meant to be cut out.  A straight edge was used where appropriate.

The initial assembly of the centre keel and waterline required two bulkheads for squaring.  All edges in contact were glued together and left overnight.

The next day I installed all the remaining bulkheads and left them overnight.  I noticed a slight warp to the model.  I used insect pins to hold it flat on the cutting mat hoping that it would straighten out with more bulkheads added.

After I cut the deck out I discovered that there were two tabs that needed to be inserted into bulkhead 8…and this is where I forgot to cut out the slots. I eventually managed to cut the slots (the second much better than the first).  Now, I did see the cutouts on the deck!  

The deck required a slight camber and, following advice from the workshops, I managed to add the camber using a spoon-shaped, clay modelling spatula.

A very complicated gluing and clamping job followed.  Clamping paper has certainly become an exercise in problem-solving!


 
And this is where the model sits…until our next trip up!  (The blinds were closed before we left!)
Clear skies and sharp tools,
Gabe
 

Introduction
 
Ah, summer! When you live in a cold place (the centre of Canada) summer is the time to take advantage of the warm sun and, if you’re lucky like I am, to relax at your cottage.  You would think that going to a secluded forest, being away from the bustle of city life, yard work and the lure of the internet you would have quality time with your modelling hobby.  Not really.  I found transporting a model and as many tools and materials as I anticipated needing an exercise in frustration.   Inevitably I was missing something and there really wasn’t adequate space to set up a long-term work area.  
 
Until now.  Several months ago I joined the Model Shipwrights of Niagara (MSON) and, as a member, I was able to attend a couple of online workshops this spring that featured card models.  Veteran card modellers gave us invaluable advice and espoused the virtues of a hobby that was easy to transport, used very few small tools, and promised fun.  Christopher Cooke, owner and proprietor of Marcle Models in the UK, presented an incredible range of models from several vendors.  I had found my cottage hobby! 
 
Not long afterward I ordered the H.M.V. model of HMCS Agassiz - a flower-class corvette - plus the laser-cut accessory kit from Marcle Models.  Mr. Cooke did inform me that there would be a delay because he did not stock this kit but it arrived as anticipated in perfect shape.
 
So, on our next trip to the cottage I added a small satchel with the model, some Aleene’s glue and a few tools to our regular cargo.
 

 
And now the build…
 
 

First trip to the cottage.

Opening the Kit
First off, the instructions are very well laid out and the English translation from the original German is superb.  Everything comes in an A4 (?) booklet.  The printed parts are on several pages of thicker stock stapled in the centre of the booklet. I chose to open the staples and remove these pages for ease of cutting, etc. 
 

In the card model workshops I attended the presenters had said that parts like bulkheads, decks, false keel, etc, might need to be glued to thicker stock which you need to provide yourself.  H.M.V. has provided space on the printed pages to fold over and glue these parts in a double thickness. I highly recommend that you read several steps ahead carefully before proceeding with your build.  Assembly is done in numerical order but while the instructions are very clearly printed the diagrams are rather small and quite full. So, finding the next part number can take a bit of a search.  

The fine lines, the profusion of small parts, and different dashed lines that denote upward folds, downward folds, and glue locations can be a bit overwhelming at first.  It took me several readings and actual assembly of a few parts before I started making sense of what was going on in the diagrams and on the part assemblies.  Even studying ahead I actually missed cutting out two, tiny red hatched slots in bulkhead 8 which made things a bit bothersome later. (You'll see this soon.). 
 
There are labels in the instructions for where laser cut parts are substituted, but I found a few omissions only because I read ahead and double-checked against the list of laser cut parts parts.  I am very impressed with the quality of these parts and the documentation. 
 

Building begins
I brought a very small kit of tools:  Xacto blade knife, straight edge, Aleene's tacky glue, plastic swabs/applicators, insect pins, three sizes of clothes pins, and a couple of clay modelling tools to act as burnishers/shapers for creating curves in parts.

The waterline, centre keel and bulkheads needed to be doubled up and glued.  The plastic swabs worked very well as glue spreaders when laid flat and used like a roller/spreader. I practiced scoring these folds using the back of the 11A xacto blade.

 
I placed the folded parts under a stack of old magazines to help keep them flat.  Parchment paper was used to keep the magazines from sticking to the model. I left this overnight.


The next day was my first test of my cutting skill.  I found that taking two passes worked best.  A first, medium pressure pass acted like a jig for the second, firmer pass to cut through. The lines are about a blade width thickness and are meant to be cut out.  A straight edge was used where appropriate.

The initial assembly of the centre keel and waterline required two bulkheads for squaring.  All edges in contact were glued together and left overnight.

The next day I installed all the remaining bulkheads and left them overnight.  I noticed a slight warp to the model.  I used insect pins to hold it flat on the cutting mat hoping that it would straighten out with more bulkheads added.

After I cut the deck out I discovered that there were two tabs that needed to be inserted into bulkhead 8…and this is where I forgot to cut out the slots. I eventually managed to cut the slots (the second much better than the first).  Now, I did see the cutouts on the deck!  

The deck required a slight camber and, following advice from the workshops, I managed to add the camber using a spoon-shaped, clay modelling spatula.

A very complicated gluing and clamping job followed.  Clamping paper has certainly become an exercise in problem-solving!


 
And this is where the model sits…until our next trip up!  (The blinds were closed before we left!)
Clear skies and sharp tools,
Gabe
 

Introduction
 
Ah, summer! When you live in a cold place (the centre of Canada) summer is the time to take advantage of the warm sun and, if you’re lucky like I am, to relax at your cottage.  You would think that going to a secluded forest, being away from the bustle of city life, yard work and the lure of the internet you would have quality time with your modelling hobby.  Not really.  I found transporting a model and as many tools and materials as I anticipated needing an exercise in frustration.   Inevitably I was missing something and there really wasn’t adequate space to set up a long-term work area.  
 
Until now.  Several months ago I joined the Model Shipwrights of Niagara (MSON) and, as a member, I was able to attend a couple of online workshops this spring that featured card models.  Veteran card modellers gave us invaluable advice and espoused the virtues of a hobby that was easy to transport, used very few small tools, and promised fun.  Christopher Cooke, owner and proprietor of Marcle Models in the UK, presented an incredible range of models from several vendors.  I had found my cottage hobby! 
 
Not long afterward I ordered the H.M.V. model of HMCS Agassiz - a flower-class corvette - plus the laser-cut accessory kit from Marcle Models.  Mr. Cooke did inform me that there would be a delay because he did not stock this kit but it arrived as anticipated in perfect shape.
 
So, on our next trip to the cottage I added a small satchel with the model, some Aleene’s glue and a few tools to our regular cargo.
 

 
And now the build…
 
 

First trip to the cottage.

Opening the Kit
First off, the instructions are very well laid out and the English translation from the original German is superb.  Everything comes in an A4 (?) booklet.  The printed parts are on several pages of thicker stock stapled in the centre of the booklet. I chose to open the staples and remove these pages for ease of cutting, etc. 
 

In the card model workshops I attended the presenters had said that parts like bulkheads, decks, false keel, etc, might need to be glued to thicker stock which you need to provide yourself.  H.M.V. has provided space on the printed pages to fold over and glue these parts in a double thickness. I highly recommend that you read several steps ahead carefully before proceeding with your build.  Assembly is done in numerical order but while the instructions are very clearly printed the diagrams are rather small and quite full. So, finding the next part number can take a bit of a search.  

The fine lines, the profusion of small parts, and different dashed lines that denote upward folds, downward folds, and glue locations can be a bit overwhelming at first.  It took me several readings and actual assembly of a few parts before I started making sense of what was going on in the diagrams and on the part assemblies.  Even studying ahead I actually missed cutting out two, tiny red hatched slots in bulkhead 8 which made things a bit bothersome later. (You'll see this soon.). 
 
There are labels in the instructions for where laser cut parts are substituted, but I found a few omissions only because I read ahead and double-checked against the list of laser cut parts parts.  I am very impressed with the quality of these parts and the documentation. 
 

Building begins
I brought a very small kit of tools:  Xacto blade knife, straight edge, Aleene's tacky glue, plastic swabs/applicators, insect pins, three sizes of clothes pins, and a couple of clay modelling tools to act as burnishers/shapers for creating curves in parts.

The waterline, centre keel and bulkheads needed to be doubled up and glued.  The plastic swabs worked very well as glue spreaders when laid flat and used like a roller/spreader. I practiced scoring these folds using the back of the 11A xacto blade.

 
I placed the folded parts under a stack of old magazines to help keep them flat.  Parchment paper was used to keep the magazines from sticking to the model. I left this overnight.


The next day was my first test of my cutting skill.  I found that taking two passes worked best.  A first, medium pressure pass acted like a jig for the second, firmer pass to cut through. The lines are about a blade width thickness and are meant to be cut out.  A straight edge was used where appropriate.

The initial assembly of the centre keel and waterline required two bulkheads for squaring.  All edges in contact were glued together and left overnight.

The next day I installed all the remaining bulkheads and left them overnight.  I noticed a slight warp to the model.  I used insect pins to hold it flat on the cutting mat hoping that it would straighten out with more bulkheads added.

After I cut the deck out I discovered that there were two tabs that needed to be inserted into bulkhead 8…and this is where I forgot to cut out the slots. I eventually managed to cut the slots (the second much better than the first).  Now, I did see the cutouts on the deck!  

The deck required a slight camber and, following advice from the workshops, I managed to add the camber using a spoon-shaped, clay modelling spatula.

A very complicated gluing and clamping job followed.  Clamping paper has certainly become an exercise in problem-solving!


 
And this is where the model sits…until our next trip up!  (The blinds were closed before we left!)
Clear skies and sharp tools,
Gabe
 

First trip to the cottage.

Opening the Kit
First off, the instructions are very well laid out and the English translation from the original German is superb.  Everything comes in an A4 (?) booklet.  The printed parts are on several pages of thicker stock stapled in the centre of the booklet. I chose to open the staples and remove these pages for ease of cutting, etc. 
 

In the card model workshops I attended the presenters had said that parts like bulkheads, decks, false keel, etc, might need to be glued to thicker stock which you need to provide yourself.  H.M.V. has provided space on the printed pages to fold over and glue these parts in a double thickness. I highly recommend that you read several steps ahead carefully before proceeding with your build.  Assembly is done in numerical order but while the instructions are very clearly printed the diagrams are rather small and quite full. So, finding the next part number can take a bit of a search.  

The fine lines, the profusion of small parts, and different dashed lines that denote upward folds, downward folds, and glue locations can be a bit overwhelming at first.  It took me several readings and actual assembly of a few parts before I started making sense of what was going on in the diagrams and on the part assemblies.  Even studying ahead I actually missed cutting out two, tiny red hatched slots in bulkhead 8 which made things a bit bothersome later. (You'll see this soon.). 
 
There are labels in the instructions for where laser cut parts are substituted, but I found a few omissions only because I read ahead and double-checked against the list of laser cut parts parts.  I am very impressed with the quality of these parts and the documentation. 
 

Building begins
I brought a very small kit of tools:  Xacto blade knife, straight edge, Aleene's tacky glue, plastic swabs/applicators, insect pins, three sizes of clothes pins, and a couple of clay modelling tools to act as burnishers/shapers for creating curves in parts.

The waterline, centre keel and bulkheads needed to be doubled up and glued.  The plastic swabs worked very well as glue spreaders when laid flat and used like a roller/spreader. I practiced scoring these folds using the back of the 11A xacto blade.

 
I placed the folded parts under a stack of old magazines to help keep them flat.  Parchment paper was used to keep the magazines from sticking to the model. I left this overnight.


The next day was my first test of my cutting skill.  I found that taking two passes worked best.  A first, medium pressure pass acted like a jig for the second, firmer pass to cut through. The lines are about a blade width thickness and are meant to be cut out.  A straight edge was used where appropriate.

The initial assembly of the centre keel and waterline required two bulkheads for squaring.  All edges in contact were glued together and left overnight.

The next day I installed all the remaining bulkheads and left them overnight.  I noticed a slight warp to the model.  I used insect pins to hold it flat on the cutting mat hoping that it would straighten out with more bulkheads added.

After I cut the deck out I discovered that there were two tabs that needed to be inserted into bulkhead 8…and this is where I forgot to cut out the slots. I eventually managed to cut the slots (the second much better than the first).  Now, I did see the cutouts on the deck!  

The deck required a slight camber and, following advice from the workshops, I managed to add the camber using a spoon-shaped, clay modelling spatula.

A very complicated gluing and clamping job followed.  Clamping paper has certainly become an exercise in problem-solving!


 
And this is where the model sits…until our next trip up!  (The blinds were closed before we left!)
Clear skies and sharp tools,
Gabe
 

Introduction
 
Ah, summer! When you live in a cold place (the centre of Canada) summer is the time to take advantage of the warm sun and, if you’re lucky like I am, to relax at your cottage.  You would think that going to a secluded forest, being away from the bustle of city life, yard work and the lure of the internet you would have quality time with your modelling hobby.  Not really.  I found transporting a model and as many tools and materials as I anticipated needing an exercise in frustration.   Inevitably I was missing something and there really wasn’t adequate space to set up a long-term work area.  
 
Until now.  Several months ago I joined the Model Shipwrights of Niagara (MSON) and, as a member, I was able to attend a couple of online workshops this spring that featured card models.  Veteran card modellers gave us invaluable advice and espoused the virtues of a hobby that was easy to transport, used very few small tools, and promised fun.  Christopher Cooke, owner and proprietor of Marcle Models in the UK, presented an incredible range of models from several vendors.  I had found my cottage hobby! 
 
Not long afterward I ordered the H.M.V. model of HMCS Agassiz - a flower-class corvette - plus the laser-cut accessory kit from Marcle Models.  Mr. Cooke did inform me that there would be a delay because he did not stock this kit but it arrived as anticipated in perfect shape.
 
So, on our next trip to the cottage I added a small satchel with the model, some Aleene’s glue and a few tools to our regular cargo.
 

 
And now the build…
 
 

Looks good my friend  

First trip to the cottage.

Opening the Kit
First off, the instructions are very well laid out and the English translation from the original German is superb.  Everything comes in an A4 (?) booklet.  The printed parts are on several pages of thicker stock stapled in the centre of the booklet. I chose to open the staples and remove these pages for ease of cutting, etc. 
 

In the card model workshops I attended the presenters had said that parts like bulkheads, decks, false keel, etc, might need to be glued to thicker stock which you need to provide yourself.  H.M.V. has provided space on the printed pages to fold over and glue these parts in a double thickness. I highly recommend that you read several steps ahead carefully before proceeding with your build.  Assembly is done in numerical order but while the instructions are very clearly printed the diagrams are rather small and quite full. So, finding the next part number can take a bit of a search.  

The fine lines, the profusion of small parts, and different dashed lines that denote upward folds, downward folds, and glue locations can be a bit overwhelming at first.  It took me several readings and actual assembly of a few parts before I started making sense of what was going on in the diagrams and on the part assemblies.  Even studying ahead I actually missed cutting out two, tiny red hatched slots in bulkhead 8 which made things a bit bothersome later. (You'll see this soon.). 
 
There are labels in the instructions for where laser cut parts are substituted, but I found a few omissions only because I read ahead and double-checked against the list of laser cut parts parts.  I am very impressed with the quality of these parts and the documentation. 
 

Building begins
I brought a very small kit of tools:  Xacto blade knife, straight edge, Aleene's tacky glue, plastic swabs/applicators, insect pins, three sizes of clothes pins, and a couple of clay modelling tools to act as burnishers/shapers for creating curves in parts.

The waterline, centre keel and bulkheads needed to be doubled up and glued.  The plastic swabs worked very well as glue spreaders when laid flat and used like a roller/spreader. I practiced scoring these folds using the back of the 11A xacto blade.

 
I placed the folded parts under a stack of old magazines to help keep them flat.  Parchment paper was used to keep the magazines from sticking to the model. I left this overnight.


The next day was my first test of my cutting skill.  I found that taking two passes worked best.  A first, medium pressure pass acted like a jig for the second, firmer pass to cut through. The lines are about a blade width thickness and are meant to be cut out.  A straight edge was used where appropriate.

The initial assembly of the centre keel and waterline required two bulkheads for squaring.  All edges in contact were glued together and left overnight.

The next day I installed all the remaining bulkheads and left them overnight.  I noticed a slight warp to the model.  I used insect pins to hold it flat on the cutting mat hoping that it would straighten out with more bulkheads added.

After I cut the deck out I discovered that there were two tabs that needed to be inserted into bulkhead 8…and this is where I forgot to cut out the slots. I eventually managed to cut the slots (the second much better than the first).  Now, I did see the cutouts on the deck!  

The deck required a slight camber and, following advice from the workshops, I managed to add the camber using a spoon-shaped, clay modelling spatula.

A very complicated gluing and clamping job followed.  Clamping paper has certainly become an exercise in problem-solving!


 
And this is where the model sits…until our next trip up!  (The blinds were closed before we left!)
Clear skies and sharp tools,
Gabe
 

First trip to the cottage.

Opening the Kit
First off, the instructions are very well laid out and the English translation from the original German is superb.  Everything comes in an A4 (?) booklet.  The printed parts are on several pages of thicker stock stapled in the centre of the booklet. I chose to open the staples and remove these pages for ease of cutting, etc. 
 

In the card model workshops I attended the presenters had said that parts like bulkheads, decks, false keel, etc, might need to be glued to thicker stock which you need to provide yourself.  H.M.V. has provided space on the printed pages to fold over and glue these parts in a double thickness. I highly recommend that you read several steps ahead carefully before proceeding with your build.  Assembly is done in numerical order but while the instructions are very clearly printed the diagrams are rather small and quite full. So, finding the next part number can take a bit of a search.  

The fine lines, the profusion of small parts, and different dashed lines that denote upward folds, downward folds, and glue locations can be a bit overwhelming at first.  It took me several readings and actual assembly of a few parts before I started making sense of what was going on in the diagrams and on the part assemblies.  Even studying ahead I actually missed cutting out two, tiny red hatched slots in bulkhead 8 which made things a bit bothersome later. (You'll see this soon.). 
 
There are labels in the instructions for where laser cut parts are substituted, but I found a few omissions only because I read ahead and double-checked against the list of laser cut parts parts.  I am very impressed with the quality of these parts and the documentation. 
 

Building begins
I brought a very small kit of tools:  Xacto blade knife, straight edge, Aleene's tacky glue, plastic swabs/applicators, insect pins, three sizes of clothes pins, and a couple of clay modelling tools to act as burnishers/shapers for creating curves in parts.

The waterline, centre keel and bulkheads needed to be doubled up and glued.  The plastic swabs worked very well as glue spreaders when laid flat and used like a roller/spreader. I practiced scoring these folds using the back of the 11A xacto blade.

 
I placed the folded parts under a stack of old magazines to help keep them flat.  Parchment paper was used to keep the magazines from sticking to the model. I left this overnight.


The next day was my first test of my cutting skill.  I found that taking two passes worked best.  A first, medium pressure pass acted like a jig for the second, firmer pass to cut through. The lines are about a blade width thickness and are meant to be cut out.  A straight edge was used where appropriate.

The initial assembly of the centre keel and waterline required two bulkheads for squaring.  All edges in contact were glued together and left overnight.

The next day I installed all the remaining bulkheads and left them overnight.  I noticed a slight warp to the model.  I used insect pins to hold it flat on the cutting mat hoping that it would straighten out with more bulkheads added.

After I cut the deck out I discovered that there were two tabs that needed to be inserted into bulkhead 8…and this is where I forgot to cut out the slots. I eventually managed to cut the slots (the second much better than the first).  Now, I did see the cutouts on the deck!  

The deck required a slight camber and, following advice from the workshops, I managed to add the camber using a spoon-shaped, clay modelling spatula.

A very complicated gluing and clamping job followed.  Clamping paper has certainly become an exercise in problem-solving!


 
And this is where the model sits…until our next trip up!  (The blinds were closed before we left!)
Clear skies and sharp tools,
Gabe
 

Thanks, Ferrus!
 

Thanks, Sergey.
Right away I see the rigging on this plan is much more realistic…pairs of dead eyes on fore mast and mizzen shrouds stand out. 
Enjoy the build!
- Gabe

Cleats and an unfortunate discovery about the foremast, but a solution and ropes arrive.
 
Sorry it’s been so long since my last post.  I took a very cold Mexican Riviera cruise on the Carnival Panorama to Mazatlán, Puerto Vallarta and Cabo San Lucas.  The ports were warm and beautiful, the Pacific was cold and windy. Then the weather got better here and I didn’t want to sit in the house and type and I wanted to make progress on the model and I have. Now to try to get you caught up with where I am I brought my laptop outside to enjoy the better weather and get on with this build log.  The cleats were supplied with the kit and were rough die-cut so they needed a ton of shaping to curve out the right angles.  I used my new sanding stick to slowly shape them. I then asked on MSW if I should pin them and the answer came back yes so I drilled 0.6 mm holes into the bottoms and glued in the points of pins to complete.  I dry fit each one to decide where best they would fit and placed them onto a sheet of foam, labeling where each would go before staining.  Some needed a radius on the bottom to fit masts. Afterward I bagged them up in labeled bags so I’d know where they went later and placed in my “completed parts” butter dish.
 

 

 

 

 


 

 

 

 
Next I finished off the masts and spars with the brass pieces needed and stained them up.  I then gave them a coat of satin varnish.
 

 

 
Meanwhile, here's a shot of my shipyard and some tool holders I made.
 

 

 
And here's my RopesOfScale.com order I received from Toronto.
 

 
This is when I studied up on how the stays would “stay” on the foremast and looked more closely at the plans and saw a “shoulder” on the mast.  I asked in the forums and got affirmation that I needed to install shoulders on the mast to hold up the forestays that would be seized around the foremast near the top.  I got several suggestions on how to do it and chose to scratch make some parts to attach to each side of the mast and shape after they were glued on.  You can see how tiny these parts were in the pictures below, and they was BEFORE shaping.  I started with little rectangles that I could glue to the mast with both PVA and CA glue to try to increase the strength of their bond.  The next day I shaped them to be little shoulders with a file and they seem very strong.  I won’t know until I put the stays on and put some tension on them.  I stained them to match the mast and varnished.  I just hope they hold.  The alternative was to make them pass-through the mast with one piece which would have required cutting a slot in a toothpick to pass the shoulder through.  I doubted I could accomplish that so I went with two pieces instead.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


 

 

 
This gets us to Feb 21, 2023.  I hope to continue to update this when I get time.  I have made a lot of progress and can't wait to share.  Thanks for reading and model on!
 
 

Tav1.tifI'm going to build Santa Maria too
 

Yes, the rigging plan is accurate. And yes, the sails should be rigged before being hoisted. 

Well, all the masts are stepped and the standing rigging is all done.  All the spars have been shaped.  
 
I'm thinking that I should rig the sails on the yards before hoisting them.  Any thoughts?
 



 
Clear skies and sharp tools!  
- Gabe

 
Dear Artesania Latina,
Your rigging plan leaves me scratching my head…did caravels actually run the shrouds on the mizzen and foremast to single blocks on cleats in the rail? Would eyebolts on a cleat be strong enough to hold up a mizzen mast with a lateen sail?  A single stay going from foremast to the top of the bowsprit makes it look like it is rigged like a crane, not a mast.
Perplexed,
Gabe

Slowly going knots 😆
 
Finished the ratlines.  All 264 knots.  This finishes the standing rigging on the main mast. I think the mizzen will be next. 


 
Clear skies and sharp tools!
Gabe
 
Dear Artesania Latina,
Seriously…thanks for 1:1 drawings.  I made a copy of the side elevation showing the ratlines and clipped it to the shrouds so I could space them consistently.  Very useful. 

But, don’t get your hopes up…I already see funny things with the mizzen mast. 
- Gabe

 
 
 
 

Slowly going knots 😆
 
Finished the ratlines.  All 264 knots.  This finishes the standing rigging on the main mast. I think the mizzen will be next. 


 
Clear skies and sharp tools!
Gabe
 
Dear Artesania Latina,
Seriously…thanks for 1:1 drawings.  I made a copy of the side elevation showing the ratlines and clipped it to the shrouds so I could space them consistently.  Very useful. 

But, don’t get your hopes up…I already see funny things with the mizzen mast. 
- Gabe

 
 
 
 

Slowly going knots 😆
 
Finished the ratlines.  All 264 knots.  This finishes the standing rigging on the main mast. I think the mizzen will be next. 


 
Clear skies and sharp tools!
Gabe
 
Dear Artesania Latina,
Seriously…thanks for 1:1 drawings.  I made a copy of the side elevation showing the ratlines and clipped it to the shrouds so I could space them consistently.  Very useful. 

But, don’t get your hopes up…I already see funny things with the mizzen mast. 
- Gabe

 
 
 
 

Slowly going knots 😆
 
Finished the ratlines.  All 264 knots.  This finishes the standing rigging on the main mast. I think the mizzen will be next. 


 
Clear skies and sharp tools!
Gabe
 
Dear Artesania Latina,
Seriously…thanks for 1:1 drawings.  I made a copy of the side elevation showing the ratlines and clipped it to the shrouds so I could space them consistently.  Very useful. 

But, don’t get your hopes up…I already see funny things with the mizzen mast. 
- Gabe

 
 
 
 

Well, it's been a bit since I wrote another entry, and work proceeds slowly. I do now have a figurehead. Carving it out of wood was a total failure, as the material I had got was either too hard, or too soft. So Milliput was the answer. Then there was the question of painting. It's too small for me to paint accurately, and it seemed better to go for gilding, even if it's unlikely that any captain would have wanted to pay for this. The National Maritime Museum's model of Mars has a splendid white figurehead, but that looked much to bright on my model. It's not clear to me what contemporary practice was, and I suspect that there was limited consistency. 
    As you can see from the photo, the forecastle now has gratings, belfry and bitts, all of which were tricky at this scale. It's all too easy to make such fittings too large, but it's obviously best to try to be as delicate as possible. Photos are difficult to get right - they always bring out the imperfections, and my only excuse is the small size of this model. 
   Next problem is the guns. It seems much too soon to do them, but I don't see how I can do the beams and gangways, or indeed the quarterdeck, without them, as they would be fiendish to fit them later. That loop on Blomefield pattern guns won't be easy.