jdbondy
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Everything posted by jdbondy
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Further testing suggests that flat topcoat may work as an alternative adhesive to CA. I have one bottle left of Floquil Model Railroad Flat Topcoat, so I guess I better make it last! It would seem to me that when using a synthetic thread like fly-tying line to tie a seizing around a cotton/linen line, using PVA type glues to secure those seizings will be less effective. Let me know if anyone can confirm that.
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I recently realized that the technique I was using to strop a block to an eyebolt was sort of the opposite of the one you refer to, Jan (Dan Vadas' technique of tying an overhand knot around the backside of the block). Instead, I tie the overhand knot within the eyebolt, then apply glue to the overhand knot. The overhand knot is then hidden between the block and whatever the eyebolt is inserted into, whether that's the deck or a spar. My technique won't work if one is seizing a block directly to a spar, as the overhand knot would then be plainly visible. The only downside is that I am currently using CA to secure that overhand knot within the eyebolt, until I figure out a better adhesive. I like the sound of using art preservationist glue, as mentioned in the blog about CA, and will be doing some testing on that idea. In the meantime, here is a picture: The black line forms an overhand knot within the eyebolt. Since this was a practice run, I was using red fly-tying line to tie the seizing. JD
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Congratulations on finishing the planking! It's a big step. The decision of whether or not to paint the hull is purely a question of what level of authenticity to the current ship you want to achieve. I painted my hull to match the vessel as she exists. And I must say it makes for a pretty hull. -
I have found that pearwood with polyurethane on it does a very nice job of duplicating the mahogany pieces on the ship such as those transom knees. It has an imperceptible grain. I hope your build is going well! Mine has been put away for about a year due to other obligations, but I hope to resurrect it soon. Good luck!
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Well, you are getting good photographic results in my opinion. I agree that it takes some work to figure out a good flash setup without causing tons of shadows. Fortunately, I'm able to use a macro lens on my Nikon D80, and with the tiny built in flash it adds enough light without shadowing. That also enables me to use an f-stop of 11. The flash attachment is way too powerful. JD
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Toni, can you tell me about your photographic setup? A macro lens, I imagine. What kind of light source/flash are you using? You're getting great results. J.D.
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Awesome, Toni. I found your build log and am looking it over from the beginning. Don't you say somewhere that you don't have a lot of spare time to work on this??!! JD
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Hi Bill, glad to see there is someone else out there building the Pride 2. I am installing spars and standing rigging on my model. One general change I made to the model is that when it was time to build the deck pieces that appear bright finished, like the pin rails and windlass support, I used pearwood. When coated with polyurethane, it nicely mimics a bright finish, and of course the grain is very tight. Good luck and will try to keep an eye on how it is going! JD
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Hi Dave, I am at the same point with my Pride of Baltimore 2 model, and having the same issue. Just starting to investigate how to secure the start of the gammoning, and then how to finish it snugly. The start would seem to be easier, as you could seize a loop of line to itself, then snug it up and hide it between the stem and bowsprit, then use CA to lock it down. I have not come up with any good ideas on finishing the gammoning. My next step will be to see if there is any information in Biddlecombe's Rigging book. Maybe someone will reply with more info... JD
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