jdbondy
-
Posts
299 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by jdbondy
-
Well, you are getting good photographic results in my opinion. I agree that it takes some work to figure out a good flash setup without causing tons of shadows. Fortunately, I'm able to use a macro lens on my Nikon D80, and with the tiny built in flash it adds enough light without shadowing. That also enables me to use an f-stop of 11. The flash attachment is way too powerful. JD -
Toni, can you tell me about your photographic setup? A macro lens, I imagine. What kind of light source/flash are you using? You're getting great results. J.D.
-
Awesome, Toni. I found your build log and am looking it over from the beginning. Don't you say somewhere that you don't have a lot of spare time to work on this??!! JD
-
Hi Bill, glad to see there is someone else out there building the Pride 2. I am installing spars and standing rigging on my model. One general change I made to the model is that when it was time to build the deck pieces that appear bright finished, like the pin rails and windlass support, I used pearwood. When coated with polyurethane, it nicely mimics a bright finish, and of course the grain is very tight. Good luck and will try to keep an eye on how it is going! JD
-
Hi Dave, I am at the same point with my Pride of Baltimore 2 model, and having the same issue. Just starting to investigate how to secure the start of the gammoning, and then how to finish it snugly. The start would seem to be easier, as you could seize a loop of line to itself, then snug it up and hide it between the stem and bowsprit, then use CA to lock it down. I have not come up with any good ideas on finishing the gammoning. My next step will be to see if there is any information in Biddlecombe's Rigging book. Maybe someone will reply with more info... JD
Our Emblem ®
