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Everything posted by Harvey Golden
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That makes very good sense, but there are still a good number of drawings he made from lines that he took that are not pointed consistently. I think if he had felt strongly about one direction or the other, he would've pointed them thus, even when basing a drawing off of a historic plan, but who knows? -Harvey
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I was also thinking about drawings. . . Chapelle's lines-drawings are very inconsistent, which strikes me as a little odd. No doubt certain schools have their "ways," but others just followed their fancy. The thought of a boat (in model or lines drawing) traveling the direction one reads is interesting, but when I 'read' a boat, I go from bow to stern, so my inclination is to draw them pointing left. (My mentor told me not to draw them that way, BTW...) Harvey
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She's looking better than she was in 1998. Good to see. Best, Harvey
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- HMS Unicorn
- preservation
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Oops. I finished. I think, anyways. First time building a ship with ratlines, though simple and mercifully few, as they were. Van Gaasbeek's book was a wonderful source, though when you really get into it, one is still left with many questions. Never mind reading the plans. . . I searched the internet for hours trying to find out what an "MF Vent" was before realizing it was just a bad imprint of "MR VENT" or Mushroom Vent. (I sure came up with what MF stood for on my own.) If anyone wants mirrored-sections (in a .docx file) or any other 'stuff' I drew up for the project, let me know. Below are photos; I'll probably post a few on-the-water pics in the Gallery next time I get down to the river. Thanks all for following along. Best, Harvey
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Stays in place and ratlines in progress. Chainplates in place (made of paper with glue 'bolt-heads'). A couple errors fixed, such as the height of the forward rifle platform. Many more details ahead and clean-up here and there. I do believe I'll be making a rudder in the not-too-distant future. Oh-- a crew was scrounged up, as well! (Trumpeter 1/200).
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A bit more progress lately. Also, here's some little details that might be of interest . . . Book-cloth for lifeboat covers and grommet punches to make life rings. I've also used these punches to make portholes when using heavy paper for cabin walls-- they leave a nice raised ring on the opposite side (I used grommets and plywood for the walls on this model). 1918 was a very good year for cowl ventilator salesmen . . .
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A little more progress: Bridge deck and boat deck are in place. The screw showed up, so the rudder post is in place with the screw aperture refined. One photo shows how the light from the LEDs is diffused inside the deck houses: The LEDs are dropped down white-painted plastic straws. The last three 'midships lights are the port and starboard running lights and a red wheelhouse light.
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Brilliant binder clip mod! I glued dog-legs onto clothespins to do the exact same thing, but they just don't grip as well. Lovely project too!
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Lateen yards – inside or outside of the shrouds?
Harvey Golden replied to catopower's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
I've tried to find information on Lateen rigs specific to the ones used on San Francisco Bay Feluccas, and a number of photographs of historic examples as well as more recent reconstructions seem to show shrouds only on one side-- the side being opposite the side the yard is on. This leaves the yard quite free of shroud interference, especially in a run. This leaves me with two questions: Am I seeing these correctly? ... And, were the shrouds shifted to the opposite side when the yard was tacked? These vessels would be among the smaller ones to use Lateen rigs, and they were used by Italian Immigrants-- most likely from more southerly Italy. Here is one on-line example I've come across that seems to show this: https://www.nps.gov/media/photo/view.htm%3Fid%3D4D5D2F58-155D-4519-3E15047BCF55EEAB FWIW, I recently built a model of one from Chapelle's "American Small Sailing Craft" (It's in the Gallery. . . scratch, and not too far down), and it is very much an interpretation, as some details remain vague in my mind. Nevertheless, the physics of the above method make some sense to me (single-side shrouds, opposite the yard), but I really have no idea and no experience. I did run the model's rig by two friends who sailed a recent (1980s-1990s?) S.F. Bay reconstruction, and they said it looked good, despite some years past their handling it. All the best, Harvey- 14 replies
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- lateen rig
- washington galley
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Getting a little color on the hull, and some of the deck furnishings. The scheme is based on the USS Banago, ID3810 (http://www.navsource.org/archives/12/173810.htm). I prefer the scheme of the Calala, depicted in my first post, but I haven't been able to find a depiction of it's opposite side. The fittings are a mix of scratch-built and Bluejacket.
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Coming along . . . I'll be putting LEDs in this model, so two white all 'rounds, red and green side lights, cabin lights, and probably a red wheelhouse light. Takes a lot of advance planning to do this, and entails having annoying wires sticking out for most of the process. (LEDs from Evan Design-- a sponsor on the MSW sidebar). A peek into the hold reveals a substantial number of 70-inch non-explosive artillery shells . . . or is that just ballast for the model? 😉
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It's always nice to have a drawing the same size as the model one is building. With the rough hull I ended up with, it's especially handy, as I need to get the 'castles' and bulwarks built up correctly. Here is the heights lofting, made from tables of offsets. Van Gaasbeek includes complete elevations, but they are greatly reduced, and some of the numbers are rendered illegible. Still very helpful though, as it provides many details the offsets do not have. Elevations in Van Gaasbeek: (The dashed lines in the stern view are for the twin-screw version). Note the 13' station distances, and the commission of 4 identical center stations.
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Planking the hull. A rough job, for sure, but after puttying, it'll sand out nicely. Before I turned the bilge with planks, I removed the strong- back. Last photos show the solid block ends in place, and rough-ground to shape. I work a little 'backwards,' in that the stem, deadwood and keel will be added after the planking.
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