DocBlake
-
Posts
1,811 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Reputation Activity
-
DocBlake got a reaction from Tony Hunt in Chapman Water Hoy 1768 by DocBlake - 1:48 scale
I fitted the bow and stern filler blocks. They are balsa wood so they shaped easily. The filler blocks and the frames were then faired. No problem with any of the bulkhead extensions breaking due to the double thickness of cross-grained basswood making up the bulkhead blanks.
-
DocBlake got a reaction from AnobiumPunctatum in Chapman Water Hoy 1768 by DocBlake - 1:48 scale
I fitted the bow and stern filler blocks. They are balsa wood so they shaped easily. The filler blocks and the frames were then faired. No problem with any of the bulkhead extensions breaking due to the double thickness of cross-grained basswood making up the bulkhead blanks.
-
DocBlake got a reaction from AnobiumPunctatum in Chapman Water Hoy 1768 by DocBlake - 1:48 scale
The subdeck is difficult to fit because of the bulwark tumblehome at the bow and the stern. I’ll make it in two pieces. I blocked in the space between bulkheads #6 and #7 to provide a gluing surface for the edges of the two pieces. I then made the stringers and glued them in the rabbets. When dry, I trimmed them and sanded the whole framework top. Next is to install the subdeck.
You can see the bearding line drawn in on the middle photo.
-
DocBlake got a reaction from druxey in Chapman Water Hoy 1768 by DocBlake - 1:48 scale
I fitted the bow and stern filler blocks. They are balsa wood so they shaped easily. The filler blocks and the frames were then faired. No problem with any of the bulkhead extensions breaking due to the double thickness of cross-grained basswood making up the bulkhead blanks.
-
DocBlake got a reaction from bruce d in Chapman Water Hoy 1768 by DocBlake - 1:48 scale
I fitted the bow and stern filler blocks. They are balsa wood so they shaped easily. The filler blocks and the frames were then faired. No problem with any of the bulkhead extensions breaking due to the double thickness of cross-grained basswood making up the bulkhead blanks.
-
DocBlake got a reaction from CiscoH in Chapman Water Hoy 1768 by DocBlake - 1:48 scale
I fitted the bow and stern filler blocks. They are balsa wood so they shaped easily. The filler blocks and the frames were then faired. No problem with any of the bulkhead extensions breaking due to the double thickness of cross-grained basswood making up the bulkhead blanks.
-
DocBlake got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in Chapman Water Hoy 1768 by DocBlake - 1:48 scale
I fitted the bow and stern filler blocks. They are balsa wood so they shaped easily. The filler blocks and the frames were then faired. No problem with any of the bulkhead extensions breaking due to the double thickness of cross-grained basswood making up the bulkhead blanks.
-
DocBlake got a reaction from BANYAN in Chapman Water Hoy 1768 by DocBlake - 1:48 scale
The subdeck is difficult to fit because of the bulwark tumblehome at the bow and the stern. I’ll make it in two pieces. I blocked in the space between bulkheads #6 and #7 to provide a gluing surface for the edges of the two pieces. I then made the stringers and glued them in the rabbets. When dry, I trimmed them and sanded the whole framework top. Next is to install the subdeck.
You can see the bearding line drawn in on the middle photo.
-
DocBlake got a reaction from Tony Hunt in Chapman Water Hoy 1768 by DocBlake - 1:48 scale
As mentioned, the sub deck is made in two pieces. I used 1/32” plywood because it bends easily and you can cut it with a pair of scissors! Since there is a second final layer of decking, I wasn’t too concerned about how tight the tolerances were for the notches that accommodate the bulwark extensions. I framed in the mast step on the profile former, drew a centerline on both pieces of subdeck, drilled the mast hole and then glued down the sub deck using 30 minute epoxy and those little yellow nails that come with every model ship kit! When the glue dried I removed the nails. The next task is bow and stern filler blocks. There is a bluff bow and the stern is pretty rounded also.
-
DocBlake got a reaction from Seventynet in Chapman Water Hoy 1768 by DocBlake - 1:48 scale
The subdeck is difficult to fit because of the bulwark tumblehome at the bow and the stern. I’ll make it in two pieces. I blocked in the space between bulkheads #6 and #7 to provide a gluing surface for the edges of the two pieces. I then made the stringers and glued them in the rabbets. When dry, I trimmed them and sanded the whole framework top. Next is to install the subdeck.
You can see the bearding line drawn in on the middle photo.
-
DocBlake got a reaction from AnobiumPunctatum in Chapman Water Hoy 1768 by DocBlake - 1:48 scale
As mentioned, the sub deck is made in two pieces. I used 1/32” plywood because it bends easily and you can cut it with a pair of scissors! Since there is a second final layer of decking, I wasn’t too concerned about how tight the tolerances were for the notches that accommodate the bulwark extensions. I framed in the mast step on the profile former, drew a centerline on both pieces of subdeck, drilled the mast hole and then glued down the sub deck using 30 minute epoxy and those little yellow nails that come with every model ship kit! When the glue dried I removed the nails. The next task is bow and stern filler blocks. There is a bluff bow and the stern is pretty rounded also.
-
DocBlake got a reaction from bruce d in Chapman Water Hoy 1768 by DocBlake - 1:48 scale
As mentioned, the sub deck is made in two pieces. I used 1/32” plywood because it bends easily and you can cut it with a pair of scissors! Since there is a second final layer of decking, I wasn’t too concerned about how tight the tolerances were for the notches that accommodate the bulwark extensions. I framed in the mast step on the profile former, drew a centerline on both pieces of subdeck, drilled the mast hole and then glued down the sub deck using 30 minute epoxy and those little yellow nails that come with every model ship kit! When the glue dried I removed the nails. The next task is bow and stern filler blocks. There is a bluff bow and the stern is pretty rounded also.
-
DocBlake got a reaction from druxey in Chapman Water Hoy 1768 by DocBlake - 1:48 scale
As mentioned, the sub deck is made in two pieces. I used 1/32” plywood because it bends easily and you can cut it with a pair of scissors! Since there is a second final layer of decking, I wasn’t too concerned about how tight the tolerances were for the notches that accommodate the bulwark extensions. I framed in the mast step on the profile former, drew a centerline on both pieces of subdeck, drilled the mast hole and then glued down the sub deck using 30 minute epoxy and those little yellow nails that come with every model ship kit! When the glue dried I removed the nails. The next task is bow and stern filler blocks. There is a bluff bow and the stern is pretty rounded also.
-
DocBlake got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in Chapman Water Hoy 1768 by DocBlake - 1:48 scale
As mentioned, the sub deck is made in two pieces. I used 1/32” plywood because it bends easily and you can cut it with a pair of scissors! Since there is a second final layer of decking, I wasn’t too concerned about how tight the tolerances were for the notches that accommodate the bulwark extensions. I framed in the mast step on the profile former, drew a centerline on both pieces of subdeck, drilled the mast hole and then glued down the sub deck using 30 minute epoxy and those little yellow nails that come with every model ship kit! When the glue dried I removed the nails. The next task is bow and stern filler blocks. There is a bluff bow and the stern is pretty rounded also.
-
DocBlake got a reaction from yvesvidal in Chapman Water Hoy 1768 by DocBlake - 1:48 scale
As mentioned, the sub deck is made in two pieces. I used 1/32” plywood because it bends easily and you can cut it with a pair of scissors! Since there is a second final layer of decking, I wasn’t too concerned about how tight the tolerances were for the notches that accommodate the bulwark extensions. I framed in the mast step on the profile former, drew a centerline on both pieces of subdeck, drilled the mast hole and then glued down the sub deck using 30 minute epoxy and those little yellow nails that come with every model ship kit! When the glue dried I removed the nails. The next task is bow and stern filler blocks. There is a bluff bow and the stern is pretty rounded also.
-
DocBlake got a reaction from JpR62 in Chapman Water Hoy 1768 by DocBlake - 1:48 scale
As mentioned, the sub deck is made in two pieces. I used 1/32” plywood because it bends easily and you can cut it with a pair of scissors! Since there is a second final layer of decking, I wasn’t too concerned about how tight the tolerances were for the notches that accommodate the bulwark extensions. I framed in the mast step on the profile former, drew a centerline on both pieces of subdeck, drilled the mast hole and then glued down the sub deck using 30 minute epoxy and those little yellow nails that come with every model ship kit! When the glue dried I removed the nails. The next task is bow and stern filler blocks. There is a bluff bow and the stern is pretty rounded also.
-
DocBlake got a reaction from BANYAN in Chapman Water Hoy 1768 by DocBlake - 1:48 scale
As mentioned, the sub deck is made in two pieces. I used 1/32” plywood because it bends easily and you can cut it with a pair of scissors! Since there is a second final layer of decking, I wasn’t too concerned about how tight the tolerances were for the notches that accommodate the bulwark extensions. I framed in the mast step on the profile former, drew a centerline on both pieces of subdeck, drilled the mast hole and then glued down the sub deck using 30 minute epoxy and those little yellow nails that come with every model ship kit! When the glue dried I removed the nails. The next task is bow and stern filler blocks. There is a bluff bow and the stern is pretty rounded also.
-
DocBlake got a reaction from CiscoH in Chapman Water Hoy 1768 by DocBlake - 1:48 scale
As mentioned, the sub deck is made in two pieces. I used 1/32” plywood because it bends easily and you can cut it with a pair of scissors! Since there is a second final layer of decking, I wasn’t too concerned about how tight the tolerances were for the notches that accommodate the bulwark extensions. I framed in the mast step on the profile former, drew a centerline on both pieces of subdeck, drilled the mast hole and then glued down the sub deck using 30 minute epoxy and those little yellow nails that come with every model ship kit! When the glue dried I removed the nails. The next task is bow and stern filler blocks. There is a bluff bow and the stern is pretty rounded also.
-
DocBlake got a reaction from druxey in Chapman Water Hoy 1768 by DocBlake - 1:48 scale
The subdeck is difficult to fit because of the bulwark tumblehome at the bow and the stern. I’ll make it in two pieces. I blocked in the space between bulkheads #6 and #7 to provide a gluing surface for the edges of the two pieces. I then made the stringers and glued them in the rabbets. When dry, I trimmed them and sanded the whole framework top. Next is to install the subdeck.
You can see the bearding line drawn in on the middle photo.
-
DocBlake got a reaction from mtaylor in Chapman Water Hoy 1768 by DocBlake - 1:48 scale
As mentioned, the sub deck is made in two pieces. I used 1/32” plywood because it bends easily and you can cut it with a pair of scissors! Since there is a second final layer of decking, I wasn’t too concerned about how tight the tolerances were for the notches that accommodate the bulwark extensions. I framed in the mast step on the profile former, drew a centerline on both pieces of subdeck, drilled the mast hole and then glued down the sub deck using 30 minute epoxy and those little yellow nails that come with every model ship kit! When the glue dried I removed the nails. The next task is bow and stern filler blocks. There is a bluff bow and the stern is pretty rounded also.
-
DocBlake got a reaction from Tonphil1960 in HMS Blandford by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1/32 Scale - cross-section
I just returned from Manitowoc WI where I attended the The 45th annual Model Ships and Boats Contest. I entered two models: The British Capstan circa 1777 and the HMS Blandford cross section. I'm pleased to report that each model won a Gold Award! Thanks to Mike Rohrer (Mike41) for his excellent plans for Blandford and to Toni Levine et.al. and the NRG for the Capstan project.
-
.thumb.jpg.6d6ee4bdbfaac2c58ecc77e7b80ae374.jpg)
DocBlake got a reaction from Matt D in Chapman Water Hoy 1768 by DocBlake - 1:48 scale
The subdeck is difficult to fit because of the bulwark tumblehome at the bow and the stern. I’ll make it in two pieces. I blocked in the space between bulkheads #6 and #7 to provide a gluing surface for the edges of the two pieces. I then made the stringers and glued them in the rabbets. When dry, I trimmed them and sanded the whole framework top. Next is to install the subdeck.
You can see the bearding line drawn in on the middle photo.
-
DocBlake got a reaction from CiscoH in Chapman Water Hoy 1768 by DocBlake - 1:48 scale
The subdeck is difficult to fit because of the bulwark tumblehome at the bow and the stern. I’ll make it in two pieces. I blocked in the space between bulkheads #6 and #7 to provide a gluing surface for the edges of the two pieces. I then made the stringers and glued them in the rabbets. When dry, I trimmed them and sanded the whole framework top. Next is to install the subdeck.
You can see the bearding line drawn in on the middle photo.
-
DocBlake got a reaction from JpR62 in Chapman Water Hoy 1768 by DocBlake - 1:48 scale
The subdeck is difficult to fit because of the bulwark tumblehome at the bow and the stern. I’ll make it in two pieces. I blocked in the space between bulkheads #6 and #7 to provide a gluing surface for the edges of the two pieces. I then made the stringers and glued them in the rabbets. When dry, I trimmed them and sanded the whole framework top. Next is to install the subdeck.
You can see the bearding line drawn in on the middle photo.
-
DocBlake got a reaction from Ainars Apalais in HMS Blandford by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1/32 Scale - cross-section
Thanks, guys!!
FINALLY FINISHED!!! I rigged the guns and placed some equipment at each battle station to complete the model. I'll post a few more shots, including the model in it's case, tomorrow.
Our Emblem ®
