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Everything posted by Glen McGuire
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Thanks, Mark. I get A & C now. Are you talking about something like this below? I found this picture from a post by _SalD_ under a topic called "Hammock Netting Question". Supposed to be from the current Constitution.
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I have some questions I'm hoping someone can help with. This sail plan picture of the original 1814 Independence is the only thing I've got to build from and there are 3 things I'm not sure of (circled below). A - Is that an anchor? If not, any idea what it is? B - It looks like there's a gap in the bulwark and some kind of fence? Any idea what that is? C - Obviously it's a black and white pic, but it looks like there is an alternating color pattern between the gun deck levels and the wales. Is it likely that the color scheme would alternate black and white? If not, what would it probably be? Any insight/opinion y'all could provide would be greatly appreciated.
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Fingers in ears.. LA LA LA LA LA LA LA LA LA LA LA...
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OMG!!! Is there a moderator for this website that I can report y'all to for modeler abuse? Someone help me, PLEASE!!!!
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Thanks, Keith! I hesitate to even mention the cannons because you and my son will start telling me how I need to have smoke coming out of them!
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From the cannon yard to the ship yard. I’ve been struggling all week with how to make this hull with all the 1mm x 1mm gun ports. My first plan was to build the hull, then drill out the gun ports. After a trial run, it looked awful with round gun ports. And the holes are just too tiny to square off after drilling. So after a few more failed ideas, I settled on a lamination plan with alternating layers of 1mm thick basswood. That allowed me to carve out each gun port individually in a square shape (as best I could at this size anyway). The hull in the 2nd pic is not glued yet – it’s just held together by the dowels sticking out of the top layer. The last pic shows a couple of test cannons in place (.015” music wire). I cut a groove into the gun port layer connecting ports on each side of the ship and inserted the wire all the way thru. That will allow me to snip off each cannon at the appropriate length when ready. So now I’ve got to shape the hull, disassemble, paint the layers, reassemble, secure the bulwarks, then add the cannons. Still some details to flesh out but I think this is going to work. Maybe.
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I love it! Unique idea and very well done.
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I also had a near heart attack moment during final assembly. Somehow I managed to drop a dime-sized blob of epoxy on the display-side of the carriage right between the trunion and the breech ring. And somehow I didn't notice it till the epoxy was almost dry. After alarming the entire neighborhood with my shrieks of anger and panic, I scraped off as much of the epoxy as I could with my fingernail, then spent about 20 minutes going over the spot very lightly with 220 sand paper trying not to take off any more of the wood surface. I finally got to a point where I thought there was no epoxy left, then gave the whole side a light rub with the tung oil. Afterwards, I could not tell any difference. OMG, what a relief.
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Thanks, Mike. I tried the Jax Pewter Black stuff but it kept rubbing off. I tried brushing it on like others suggest as well as multiple coats but still could not get it to work well. So I ended up rubbing it all off and just spray painting with Rust-oleum flat black.
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Thank you, Keith. That was certainly a change of pace working at a roughly 1/12 scale instead of the usual 1/500! A cannon model? Hmmmmm. That is an interesting idea. I may have to put that on the list. It would certainly be easier the 2nd time around. I screwed up so many things along the way while building this one it's not even funny.
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The carriage is now complete with the exception of the rigging. I’ll “tackle” that after finishing the ship. 🙄 The first pic shows all the pieces and parts of the carriage before assembly.
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Finished making the last pieces of carriage hardware. For the breeching ringbolt I took a piece of copper wire, wrapped it around a dowel rod and soldered the ends. For the capsquare key I took a small brass rod, bent it into a circle around a small nail, and soldered it to part of a small finishing nail. The 2nd pic shows all the completed capsquare hardware.
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@Deperdussin1910 Thanks for the comment. I do find the list very interesting. When Chappelle said the Independence was the first ship of the line commissioned by the US Navy, I assumed it was the first US ship of the line. But maybe he was alluding to the fact that the Dept of the Navy did not officially exist until 1794 and the Independence was the first one commissioned after that. The history is always fascinating.
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Thanks, Mike. Yes, I did put a touch on the end grain of the carriage sides. It was going to be a hair light without it and a hair dark with it. It was not going to be perfect either way, so I went with the slight darkening.
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File this under "Questions I should have asked before doing something." The end grain is really exposed with the wheels and as soon as I applied the tung oil, I noticed it was darker that the long grain. So I buffed it quickly. Of course since I did it on 1 wheel I had to do it on all 4. It ended up being a touch darker but I can live with it. Lesson learned - I tested on the long grain but didn't think to test on the end grain. Thanks for your insight. I like the way you tested and laid out all the different shades of stain in your Pegasus build. In hindsight, I think varnish might have been the way to go, but I will definitely test all sides from now on!
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OMG Joe! I've got 4 pieces of rail of various sizes lying around (along with a few tie-plates) and it's unbelievable how many things I use them for. Next to duct tape, they are about the handiest thing in my garage! Hey Grant, understood! As I mentioned in the first post, I was trying to avoid my own list of "other priorities" when I began this project! Still very much looking forward to when you are able to start your Amati Hannah. Thanks, Mike. I actually added a light coat of tung oil to the wood before this last set of pictures. It darkened it just a shade and gave it what I think is a richer tone. To my eye, the color is a bit darker than the picture so I'm not sure I'm not sure if I want to do anything more that would change it too much. How do you finish wood with this type of natural color? I've got minimal experience with wood-working like this so any advice is much appreciated. I actually looked for some Kunos oil that @gjdale mentions in his Capstan project but could not find any around here.
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After that minor detour, it’s now time for the capsquares. After playing around with several different materials I finally decided brass was the easiest to work with. I bought a 1mm thick brass sheet from Hobby Lobby, cut 8cm x 1mm strips, and bent them into shape (1st pic). Piece of cake! Uh, not so fast. I looked at the carriage picture again and once again spotted something I’d overlooked. The ends of the capsquares are rolled up (2nd pic). Ugh! The only thing I could figure out to do was solder a brass rod to each end. So that’s what I ended up doing. The last pic shows how they look before cleanup. I think they’ll be ok after some filing and painting.
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Every time I look at pictures of the real carriage it seems like I see something new. This time I noticed that it looks like there’s a thin sleeve bearing in the trunion groove on the top edge of the brackets. So I took some copper tape left over from the Alabama and used it for the bearing. It will be painted black later.
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It's making my neck sore turning my head to study those pictures, but it's well worth it! Really beautiful work on that whole bowsprit assembly, Rob.
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Welcome aboard! Your username reminds me of a really poor joke I heard the other day: Two robbers were robbing a liquor store when one robber grabs a bottle and asks the other robber "is this whiskey?" The other says "yeah but not as whiskey as wobbing a bank". Sorry! 😁
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The axles have a collar and linch pin on each side that keeps the wheels (trucks) in place. For the collars, I took some brass brads, folded them around the axle, then drilled holes for the linch pins. For the linch pins, I’m using finishing nails since their head is similar in shape to what I see in the real pictures. For the trunions, my toolbox sacrificed a 6” long 3/8” socket extension. Unfortunately for it, it was the perfect diameter that I needed. The grommets on the end (which will rest against the bottle) are hard rubber dampeners from my dirt bike handlebars. Nothing is off limits when you’re scrounging pieces and parts! Next up, figuring out how to make the capsquares.
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I am making slow progress on the carriage hardware – slow because it takes me forever to figure out what to use and what to do. I spend a ridiculous amount of time fiddling around with a whole bunch of different things trying to find something that works. The carriage has 2 tie-bolts with square heads that run the width of the carriage and protrude through countersunk holes in the side brackets. The front tie-bolt goes thru the transom and the rear supports the stool bed. To make the tie-bolts, I took a 1mm thick metal strip, cut it into 4mm x 4mm squares and soldered them onto the head of a common nail. There are 6 joint bolts that go thru the steps on top of the side brackets and 2 joint bolts that go thru the front bumper. I’m using some small nails with rounded heads for those. Mine are just for appearance as I am not pushing them all the way through.
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