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Dan Vadas

Gone, but not forgotten
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Everything posted by Dan Vadas

  1. Thank you George - she does . Thanks Russell. Note that I've placed the boat into the bottle BOW FIRST. This is highly unusual in SiB builders, if you take a look at most of them the bow points toward the neck of the bottle. This makes it much easier to raise the masts (I won't go into the technicalities of how that's done just now). Hmmm ... I thought that 18th Century WAS classed as "Period" . My next build will certainly be something "unusual", but it'll have to go into "Shore Leave" as it's "Off Topic" - a Step-ladder in a bottle for my tool-crazy 4-year-old grandson . Thanks Pat. Might take me a little bit longer than that John . And thank you too Christian. Danny
  2. Thank you Mark, George, Pat, Druxey, Daniel, Grant and Bob. That must be what those guys in white coats knocking at my door want . Well, here are the final pics - she's all complete. Apart from the accident with the mast the whole build went according to plan, and I am very happy with the result. So is my partner - after all, I built it as a present for her : Danny
  3. That's part of the fun of ship modelling . Don't you mean "outside the bottle thinking"? Thank you David, Grant and Russell. With all the fixes and adjustments done to my satisfaction (not quite perfect, but hardly noticeable) it was time to add the "sea" I used Digger's two-part Ultra Clear Casting Resin. It looks a little yellowy when first mixed, but dries clear when it hardens. I used a squeeze bottle to which I glued a piece of Heat-shrink tubing to get the resin into the bottle without actually tipping it in which could have been very messy. Clear tubing would have been better, but I just used what I had on hand : Danny
  4. Thanks Daniel, David, Russell and Greg. Trust me Russell, this wasn't "manufactured". I'd have finished the whole thing a couple of days ago except for the accident . We're only on the other side of the world, not on Mars Greg . Well, so far so good. I've managed to get the jib stay back on and tightened. Also the forestay. The tip of the mast was a real bugger to get back on after doing the other two lines. It took some rather ingenious (if I say so myself ) special tools to help me do it. From the top, a Q-Tip on a BBQ skewer used for cleaning off glue. A sliver of Scalpel blade super-glued to a skewer for trimming excess line. A piece of bent brass tubing on a handle used for applying glue. A pair of extra-long tweezers made from scrap wood : Raising the forestay. Another tool I made was a piece of square wood with a "U" filed into the end, used as a push-stick. This holds the mast in position while I pull back on the fishing line attached to the stay. The hair clip holds the line while the glue dries : I used the Q-tip to hold the top of the mast in position while the glue dried on the repair. The Blue-tack holds the push-stick in place : And .... I also managed to get the Truck back onto the top of the mast : Danny
  5. Thanks for the commiserations Grant, George and Daniel. George got it exactly right - there is a bulge inside the top of the bottle which wasn't apparent until I actually tried to lift the mast. As Daniel said, I tried to get right to the extremities of the bottle to make it look "filled" - just that little bit TOO much . The boat has been epoxied into the bottom of the bottle, so any repair/adjustment work needs to be carried inside it now. Danny
  6. Thank you Christian, Crackers, David and Johann. But not so fast with the praise just yet. I've had an Oopsie! It seems like I miscalculated the height of the mast by a couple of millimetres. I squeezed the boat into the bottle and used Clear Epoxy to glue the hull to the bottom of the bottle: When I tried to raise the mast it snapped off at the uppermost hole, which of course was the most vital one later as the Jib Halyard has to be pulled through it: Next problem was how to cut the end off the mast to get it to the right height. I came up with this solution - a sliver of scalpel blade Super-glued into a pair of long-nose pliers. That worked beautifully : Stay tuned for further fixes . Danny
  7. Thanks very much for the kind comments Mark, Per, Pat, David, Grant, Duff, Jan and John . Wasn't that me Grant :D ? I made the grapnel anchor from brass sheet which I filed into shape, silver soldered and blackened : Danny
  8. Thanks Greg, Nick, George and Keith. Gee, sorry George. Just a 4x magnifier . Lots of practice??? Here's your pic Keith : Danny
  9. Thanks Russell. Yep, this is a whole new ball game, and a load of fun . Here's the final rigging. It'll tighten up better when it's all finished (I hope) : My trick for doing the Forestay. The fishing line will be trimmed off after the forestay is glued to the mast : The fishing line used to pull the jib halyard Traveller forward on the bowsprit : The final try into the bottle before I actually insert the boat permanently. I'll only get one chance at it, as I doubt I'd get it back out again : Danny
  10. Rigging the Shrouds and their lanyards : I found I had a couple of problems when I tried to insert the boat into the bottle for another test fit. With the Deadeyes fitted it was a bit too wide to go through the neck of the bottle. I had to trim a bit off the edge of the cap rail to bring them in enough. The shrouds also needed to be left loose at their tops to allow them to slide down the mast a few millimeters when lowering the mast. These can be lifted back into position when the mast is raised inside the bottle later on. Danny
  11. Thank you Dan and Don. I've done quite a lot on the boat lately, but haven't updated the Log so there will be a fair bit coming up . I've painted the hull in similar fashion to Chuck's. The Friezes were hand-painted with a toothpick : The Parrels were a bit of fun to thread onto the boom yoke : Now came the time to fix the mast to the swivelling thwart and try it out to see if my plan was going to work - a close shave, but all was good : Danny
  12. G'day Stubby, Have you checked out Chuck Passarro's practicum on building this kit? He designed it in the first place, and I'm guessing that there are things missing in the kit instructions that will be in the practicum. Here's the LINK to it. BTW - I'm (sort of) making the same boat in 1:100 scale, and putting it in a bottle . The link to it is in my signature below. Danny
  13. Thanks Dan and Igor. The blocks are the smallest I've made to date - only 1.4mm long. Here they are with one of Chuck's 1/8" blocks for comparison : I needed one double block for the forestay. It's slighlty wider than the singles, but of course has four holes instead of two : Some more Ironwork - the mast band for the Boom, the bands for the Bowsprit and the two tiny Backstay Chains : The construction of the Boom Yoke. The pics should be self-explanatory : Danny
  14. I use a small sheet of glass - a quick wipe over when finished with PVA works fine, epoxy and CA can be scraped off when set. Danny
  15. Thanks Christian and Grant. I made the Thole Pins for the oars from bamboo drawn down to 0.35mm : The Wales have also been fitted : Danny
  16. Thank you George and John. Next I made the Gunwales. I traced around the hull to get the outside shape, cut that out and used a pair of compasses to get the inner line : Then I made the Mast Step in two halves - one was glued to the keelson, the other to the mast. When the mast is raised the two halves come together : Last job for today are two knees for the transom and the breasthook : Danny
  17. The method of hinging the bottom of the mast presented a fairly unique problem. My solution was to enable the thwart to which the mast is clamped to turn. I had to deviate from correct practice and fit the mast to the fore end of the thwart. as there was no way the mast would clear the adjacent thwart when fully lowered with enough room to fit everything through the bottle neck. I also glued a brace under the thwart for extra strength : A length of 0.8mm brass wire was drilled and glued into one end of the thwart brace. Holes were drilled right through the risers, frames and external planking. The first wire was inserted into the hole on one side, and then the thwart was lowered into position and the second wire was fitted into the thwart brace from the outside : In the pic above I was still experimenting with the raising of the mast. This was when I discovered that I'd need to reverse the direction of the thwart. The hinge pins were cut off flush with the planking. These will be covered by a wale later on : Danny
  18. To raise the mast later I needed some way of leading the pull rope, as I'm fitting the boat into the bottle bow first (which is the hard way of doing it ). I bent up a piece of 0.5mm ID brass tubing which will be completely hidden beneath other panels : The keelson was scalloped out on the underside to accommodate the tube : The fore platform hides most of the tube : The aft end of the tube runs alongside the knee. I used epoxy to hold it in along it's length : The tube exits behind the rudder : Danny
  19. Correct. The independent 4-jaw chuck is used for stock that isn't square. You need to adjust each jaw seperately. Danny
  20. I love my Sherlines too . If you are going to buy the 4-jaw chuck you'll be torn between the self-aligning one and the "normal". Both have their uses - the self-aligning is particularly good when you have square stock to turn as it needs no careful adjusting. I have both. Danny
  21. Thank you Brian, John, Janos and David . Congratulations to you too Janos on taking out People's Choice. What was the other trophy you got? EDIT - Oh, I see now that I've looked at your post in Royal Caroline . Your carving really set the bow of Vulture off. BTW - I had a great time too, more comments and conversations with the public and members alike than any other show I've been to The finished binnacle, complete with two compasses, a lantern and it's chimney : Well, Vulture has now gone to her final home - I delivered her to the Museum this morning. I forgot to take a pic of the installed Binnacle, so you'll have to take my word for it that it fits . Danny
  22. Thank you George, E&T and Russell. Actually, Member's Choice is rated higher than People's Choice as it's voted for by the guys who know what they are looking at. I know what you mean about the late entry number . Danny
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