Dan Vadas

Hi Toni,
 
That's the same shape Lower Capstan Step as my "Vulture". It's the actual step, not an addition on top.
 
Here's the Link to the post in my build log where I made it.
 
  Danny

Hi Grant,
 
There's a Third Option - make the Yard Tackles look like they are REALLY doing something by hooking them up to a Longboat ready for "Liftoff" like on my "HMAT Supply". Sorry about the camera angles, I can't find a clearer pic on my computer and you'll have to go to Norfolk Island and visit the Pier Museum to see the model .
 
   
 
  Danny

Counter Timbers
 
And now for something more interesting - the Counter Timbers. These are the timbers that go between the Stern Lights (windows).
 
They are each made from two pieces of timber scarph jointed together and taper toward the top both fore-aft and athwartships. They also converge toward the top to "meet" at a point at about the height of the Mizzen Crosstrees :
 
 

 

 
 
They are supported near their tops by the Quarterdeck Transom, which has a rebate in it's front edge to accept the quarterdeck planking. At this stage the transom still needs to be faired on it's lower outside edge :
 
 

 

 

Upper Deck Treenailng
 
More of the same - Treenailing (yawn  ) :
 
 

 

 

 

Top and Butt (Anchor Stock) Deck Planking
 
Same as Lower Deck Planking - I'll let the pics tell the story :
 
 

 

 

 

 

Capstan Step
 
The Capstan Step is made from three pieces of timber with faked "dovetail" joints :
 
 

 
 
Another notable variation from the "norm" for Vulture - on most other "Swan class" ships it is a rectangle with a rounded fore edge. The NMM plans show it quite differently :
 
 

 
 
The top of the Step is horizontal to the waterline in both fore-aft and athwartships directions as the ship has Capstans on both the Upper Deck and the Quarterdeck, so a common base plane is needed to connect the two. The Step is about 2" thicker on the fore edge compared to the aft edge to allow for the slope of the deck from the vertical.
 
 

 

 

 
 
The Aft Ladderway Coaming has been fitted :
 
 

Upper Deck Hatch Coamings
 
Similar in construction to those of the Lower Deck.
 
 

 

Mizzen and Foremast Partners
 
The Mizzen Mast Partners are of a simple type - made from two 17" wide planks dovetail jointed together :
 
 

 

 
 
The Foremast Partner is a "normal" rectangular version of the Main Mast Partner. All the steps and rebates were done using the Byrnes saw :
 
 

 

 

 

 

Aft Beam Arms, Carlings and Ledges
 
There are four Beam Arms on the Upper Deck - two each side of the beam separating the Main Hatch from the Main Mast Partners :
 
 

 

 

 

 

Main Mast Partners
 
HMS Vulture has a very different style of Main Mast Partner on the Upper Deck to most other ships. Whether this was an experiment that was not used again because there was no benefit is unknown. However, the NMM plans clearly show this method of use (2nd pic). The more "normal" type of main mast partner is shown in the TFFM plan in pic 1. I had to do my own interpretation of how the various components of the partner would have fitted together :
 
 

 

 

 
 
The two main pieces of the partner were rebated together - I used a fillet as the final join looks the same :
 
 

 

 

 

 

Mast Wedges
 
Masts were not bolted to any part of the hull or deck framing - this would have put far too much pressure on individual components, not to mention weakening the mast itself. Instead, Wedges were used around the mast at each Partner to hold it in position.
 
Rather than attempt to make individual wedges, which would be impossible to fit on a model for the lower decks, I turned up wedge "rings" on the lathe. The individual wedges are simulated with an Xacto blade and are enhanced with a pencil :
 
 

 

 

 

 
 
Note that the "mast" in these pics is only a dummy for alignment purposes - I haven't made the "real things" yet.

Upper Deck Planking
 
The same construction methods used in the Lower Deck Planking apply to the Upper Deck :
 
 

 

 

 
 
Note the small "hook" in the planking near the capstan step :
 
 

 
 
Another hook where the line of the Aft Ladderway is narrower than the Aft Hatch :
 
 

 

 
 
The planking cut out for the port Riding Bitts Standard :
 
 

Last pics for now are of the Rudder I'd previously rebuilt and fitted and forgot to take pics of a couple of weeks ago :
 

 

 

 
  Danny

I rebuilt and stepped the Masts - this took nearly a full day, as the holes on each deck and the bulkheads below them didn't come close to lining up :
 

 

 

 

 
I've also fitted about half the lower deadeyes and their chains - again, not historically accurate but that's what the kit supplied. The kit deadeyes aren't too bad actually - they are cast in Resin and the holes are better than most kits with wooden ones. The chains were already fitted to the deadeyes - I don't know if they came like this in the kit, but I suspect they did. It saved me a lot of work anyway :
 

 

 
The loose chains will tighten up when I fit the Shrouds. There are also a couple of Gunport Lids that will need re-fitting - I managed to loosen a few while fitting the Chains .... I'll fit ALL the Chains before doing this, as no doubt I'll disturb a couple more yet.
 
Continued in next Post .....

Thanks for the comments Bug, Craig, Daniel, Ollie, Grant, Craig and Blademaster .
 
 
Not really Ollie. I estimate about 45 hours so far.
 
I managed some more work on the model over the (looong - mine started on Wednesday ) Australia Day weekend.
 
The old guy had "built" the Masts, but they were so rough and out of shape that my easiest option was to scrap virtually everything and start over. I kept the Mast Tops, as I didn't have anything on hand to replace them with. I soaked them overnight in Acetone to soften the glue and paint, then cleaned them up.
 
Below are a couple of pics of the Tops and a Mast Coat from BEFORE :
 

 

 
And some pics AFTER :
 

 

 

 

 
I realize that the Tops are nowhere near accurate, but don't forget I'm attempting to build this model the way the old guy would have liked it to come out   .
 
Continued in next Post ......

Hi Grant,
 
There's a Third Option - make the Yard Tackles look like they are REALLY doing something by hooking them up to a Longboat ready for "Liftoff" like on my "HMAT Supply". Sorry about the camera angles, I can't find a clearer pic on my computer and you'll have to go to Norfolk Island and visit the Pier Museum to see the model .
 
   
 
  Danny

Last pics for now are of the Rudder I'd previously rebuilt and fitted and forgot to take pics of a couple of weeks ago :
 

 

 

 
  Danny

A bit of both Bug .
 
  Danny

Thanks for the comments Bug, Craig, Daniel, Ollie, Grant, Craig and Blademaster .
 
 
Not really Ollie. I estimate about 45 hours so far.
 
I managed some more work on the model over the (looong - mine started on Wednesday ) Australia Day weekend.
 
The old guy had "built" the Masts, but they were so rough and out of shape that my easiest option was to scrap virtually everything and start over. I kept the Mast Tops, as I didn't have anything on hand to replace them with. I soaked them overnight in Acetone to soften the glue and paint, then cleaned them up.
 
Below are a couple of pics of the Tops and a Mast Coat from BEFORE :
 

 

 
And some pics AFTER :
 

 

 

 

 
I realize that the Tops are nowhere near accurate, but don't forget I'm attempting to build this model the way the old guy would have liked it to come out   .
 
Continued in next Post ......

Thanks Mobbsie, Lawrence, Augie, Sjors, Joe, Mark, Mike and Mick, and also for all the "likes".
 
Well, I'm finally back to the stage I thought I was at some weeks ago!
 
But it wasn't without mishap .......
 
As I was attaching one part of the rigging today, I managed to knock the Fore Topgallant Mast and snap it off - again      .  It actually broke in a different place to the last time, proving that my repair job last time was stronger than the original mast.    This time it broke right across the hole drilled to simulate the sheave for the topgallant yard tye, making repair a little tricky.  I used the same method with 2-part epoxy and it seems to be holding alright thus far.
 
In re-mounting the yards, I decided to use Gil's idea of pinning the yards to the mast with a small brass/copper wire pin.  This worked even better than I thought it would and makes the process a lot easier, especially when applying tension to the lifts of the topsail and topgallant yards.  Thanks Gil 
 
So here's a few shots to show the current state of play........
 
First up an overview.  You will see that I haven't yet decided how I'm going to finish off the Yard Tackle Pendants on the lower yard.
 

 
This is the Fore Topagallant Yard.  If you look closely you will see the repair job where the tye runs through the mast.
 

 
A general shot showing the Fore Topsail Yard:
 

 
This shot shows the Shroud Cleats being used to secure the fall of the Topsail Lifts:
 

 
And this is a close-up showing the Shroud Trucks in use on the Topsail Yard tyes:
 

 
I think I'm now ready to do this all over on the Main Mast........    

Thanks for the tip Mark, but it would have to be a VERY small chess set - the Crown is only 4mm high .
 
Pilasters
 
The final pieces of this jigsaw puzzle - the Pilasters. The first pieces I made were the Bases and Capitals. These were cut from a length of molded English Box :
 

 
The Columns were done in similar fashion, from long lengths of molded stock :
 

 
Some pics of the finished assembly ready for a coat of Minwax :
 

 

 

 
  Danny

A chart room.... lets's see. look now, Piet's getting carried away already
 
First the chimney, I was looking through my books because these came in al sorts and shapes
 

 
But fortunately TFFM hinted me to also check my NMM plans and guess what the chimney was drawn in so getting the shape right was easy peasy. (reminder look more on the NMM plans there is more on it than I had thought)
 
The pyramid shape was diver soldered from some scrap pieces, the funnel turned and tapered on the lathe. 
 

 
The floor was added in front of the stove. And here it is ready to be lit this was really a fun challenge to do, thank you Druxey for inspiring me to give it a try.
 

 

 
Remco

Chesstrees
 
The Chesstrees house a sheave that acts as a "lead" for the Main Tack before it enters the forward Fixed Block and then belays around the cleat. They are positioned just aft of the fixed block.
 
I made the two chesstrees from English Box, both as a color contrast and because of the thin section around the sheave which required a very close-grained timber to avoid splitting. The first one was a "character building exercise" - it took me about 2 1/2 hours to shape. The second one took about 10 minutes .
 
The (working) sheaves are 2.65mm in diameter and 1mm thick :
 

 

 
The second chesstree ready to cut off the piece of stock - after taking this pic I prepared everything (molding on the outer face, sheave hole and "bolts") for this one before cutting it off :
 

 
The Main Tacks are quite large - 5 1/2" in circumference, the scale equivalent being 0.9mm diameter. I threaded some line through both the chesstree and the fixed block to make sure I'd made the slots large enough to pass the line through :

 

 
I made two mistakes (which will remain) on the first one - anyone spot them ?
 
  Danny

I'm guessing none of the above members are either Kit Builders or don't own a Byrnes Table Saw - that would be my pick. I use mine a lot more than I do my Mill.
 
9 times out of 10 I can get by with a Pinvise instead of my Dremel (unless I'm drilling a couple of thousand Treenails in one go   .
 
  Danny

Thanks Christian, David, Yambo and Pat .
 
 
Pat, believe it or not just the plastic top from a nail packet. It isn't totally clear, which gives the more textured look of old-type glass .
 
  Danny