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Dan Vadas
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Dan Vadas got a reaction from billocrates in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
Thanks for the comments Christian, Remco, John. Grant, Toni, Mark, Joe and Ben. Also all those who "Liked" the post. Much appreciated .
Carving the Finishing and Glazing Lights
Mark, as per your request - the carving on the Lower Finishing :
I won't be doing any of the "fancy" carving for quite a while yet if I do any of it at all, I'm still undecided - I don't have the tools, and my skills don't extend to the "artistic" type carving yet. Perhaps I can persuade Janos to make a few for me (hint, hint Janos ).
I've also "glazed" the Lights with Acrylic (Perspex) and made and fitted the frames and munions. The curved frame in the central light was done by soaking and bending the strip :
Almost finished with this very enjoyable project. Just four Pilasters to make.
Danny
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Dan Vadas got a reaction from Kevin in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
Thanks for the comments Christian, Remco, John. Grant, Toni, Mark, Joe and Ben. Also all those who "Liked" the post. Much appreciated .
Carving the Finishing and Glazing Lights
Mark, as per your request - the carving on the Lower Finishing :
I won't be doing any of the "fancy" carving for quite a while yet if I do any of it at all, I'm still undecided - I don't have the tools, and my skills don't extend to the "artistic" type carving yet. Perhaps I can persuade Janos to make a few for me (hint, hint Janos ).
I've also "glazed" the Lights with Acrylic (Perspex) and made and fitted the frames and munions. The curved frame in the central light was done by soaking and bending the strip :
Almost finished with this very enjoyable project. Just four Pilasters to make.
Danny
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Dan Vadas got a reaction from Dubz in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
Thanks for the comments Christian, Remco, John. Grant, Toni, Mark, Joe and Ben. Also all those who "Liked" the post. Much appreciated .
Carving the Finishing and Glazing Lights
Mark, as per your request - the carving on the Lower Finishing :
I won't be doing any of the "fancy" carving for quite a while yet if I do any of it at all, I'm still undecided - I don't have the tools, and my skills don't extend to the "artistic" type carving yet. Perhaps I can persuade Janos to make a few for me (hint, hint Janos ).
I've also "glazed" the Lights with Acrylic (Perspex) and made and fitted the frames and munions. The curved frame in the central light was done by soaking and bending the strip :
Almost finished with this very enjoyable project. Just four Pilasters to make.
Danny
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Dan Vadas got a reaction from Jorge Diaz O in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
But wait John .... there's more .
Lower Finishing
The Lower Finishing is done in three sections - upper and lower sections divided by the Lower Finishing Rail.
I first made the upper piece, which is sanded inward on it's lower edge by about 25 degrees. I then cut the molding in.Then I made the rail and glued it to the bottom of the upper piece :
The lower piece was a bit harder to make, as I incorporated the Drop (the fancy round bit at the bottom). I carved a representation of three "leaves" into the drop :
The last bit was easy - glue the two assemblies to the bottom of the Quarter Badge :
Some carving still needs to be done to both upper and lower finishing pieces. This should be fairly easy with all parts fitted to the hull (I hope ).
Danny
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Dan Vadas got a reaction from Elmer Cornish in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
But wait John .... there's more .
Lower Finishing
The Lower Finishing is done in three sections - upper and lower sections divided by the Lower Finishing Rail.
I first made the upper piece, which is sanded inward on it's lower edge by about 25 degrees. I then cut the molding in.Then I made the rail and glued it to the bottom of the upper piece :
The lower piece was a bit harder to make, as I incorporated the Drop (the fancy round bit at the bottom). I carved a representation of three "leaves" into the drop :
The last bit was easy - glue the two assemblies to the bottom of the Quarter Badge :
Some carving still needs to be done to both upper and lower finishing pieces. This should be fairly easy with all parts fitted to the hull (I hope ).
Danny
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Dan Vadas got a reaction from Kevin in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
But wait John .... there's more .
Lower Finishing
The Lower Finishing is done in three sections - upper and lower sections divided by the Lower Finishing Rail.
I first made the upper piece, which is sanded inward on it's lower edge by about 25 degrees. I then cut the molding in.Then I made the rail and glued it to the bottom of the upper piece :
The lower piece was a bit harder to make, as I incorporated the Drop (the fancy round bit at the bottom). I carved a representation of three "leaves" into the drop :
The last bit was easy - glue the two assemblies to the bottom of the Quarter Badge :
Some carving still needs to be done to both upper and lower finishing pieces. This should be fairly easy with all parts fitted to the hull (I hope ).
Danny
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Dan Vadas got a reaction from Adrieke in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
But wait John .... there's more .
Lower Finishing
The Lower Finishing is done in three sections - upper and lower sections divided by the Lower Finishing Rail.
I first made the upper piece, which is sanded inward on it's lower edge by about 25 degrees. I then cut the molding in.Then I made the rail and glued it to the bottom of the upper piece :
The lower piece was a bit harder to make, as I incorporated the Drop (the fancy round bit at the bottom). I carved a representation of three "leaves" into the drop :
The last bit was easy - glue the two assemblies to the bottom of the Quarter Badge :
Some carving still needs to be done to both upper and lower finishing pieces. This should be fairly easy with all parts fitted to the hull (I hope ).
Danny
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Dan Vadas got a reaction from SkerryAmp in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
But wait John .... there's more .
Lower Finishing
The Lower Finishing is done in three sections - upper and lower sections divided by the Lower Finishing Rail.
I first made the upper piece, which is sanded inward on it's lower edge by about 25 degrees. I then cut the molding in.Then I made the rail and glued it to the bottom of the upper piece :
The lower piece was a bit harder to make, as I incorporated the Drop (the fancy round bit at the bottom). I carved a representation of three "leaves" into the drop :
The last bit was easy - glue the two assemblies to the bottom of the Quarter Badge :
Some carving still needs to be done to both upper and lower finishing pieces. This should be fairly easy with all parts fitted to the hull (I hope ).
Danny
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Dan Vadas got a reaction from Jeronimo in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
But wait John .... there's more .
Lower Finishing
The Lower Finishing is done in three sections - upper and lower sections divided by the Lower Finishing Rail.
I first made the upper piece, which is sanded inward on it's lower edge by about 25 degrees. I then cut the molding in.Then I made the rail and glued it to the bottom of the upper piece :
The lower piece was a bit harder to make, as I incorporated the Drop (the fancy round bit at the bottom). I carved a representation of three "leaves" into the drop :
The last bit was easy - glue the two assemblies to the bottom of the Quarter Badge :
Some carving still needs to be done to both upper and lower finishing pieces. This should be fairly easy with all parts fitted to the hull (I hope ).
Danny
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Dan Vadas reacted to gjdale in HMS Victory by gjdale - FINISHED - Mamoli - Scale 1:90
Thanks again for all the nice comments and "likes".
Daniel (Dafi) - thanks for the unashamed sales pitch, but I don't think I'll be needing your product.
A small update......
Following the advice/opinions of you good folks, I made a minor tweak to the Mast Cleats prior to installation, which required re-blackening as well (no prob )
And here are the Foremast set installed (Main and Mizzen Mast Cleats have also been installed):
And with the Truss Pendant falls re-done to belay on the Mast Cleats:
This shot shows the forward Kevel Cleats (with working sheave) installed, with the Fore Yard Lifts belayed to them. (The Kevel is on the right of the photo, next to the bulwark):
And finally, those pesky Shroud Cleats. I've finished installing the Foremast Shroud Cleats. Fortunately, the Main Mast Shrouds don't use any Shroud Cleats. So, just the Mizzen Shroud Cleats left to install. The only real difficulty in installing the Foremast Shroud Cleats was the fact that the Foremast Yard was already in place, causing a "poke your eye out" hazard (the optivisor saved me several times). The Mizzen ones should be a little easier to do.
Taking a photo of the installed Shroud Cleats also proved problematic. This is about the best I could do in that regard.
All in all, I'm pretty happy with the way both of these cleat sets have turned out.
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Dan Vadas reacted to tlevine in HMS Atalanta 1775 by tlevine - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - from TFFM plans
John and Elia, thank you for your kind comments. Thanks for all the Likes as well. A little more has been accomplished this weekend. I have applied the finish to the pantry. Beam set 14 has been installed and beam set 15 is in progess. The middle carlings are larger to support the capstain partner. Unlike the carlings for the mast partners, this piece is installed like a regular carling (ie from on top) rather than under the beam.
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Dan Vadas got a reaction from DORIS in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
But wait John .... there's more .
Lower Finishing
The Lower Finishing is done in three sections - upper and lower sections divided by the Lower Finishing Rail.
I first made the upper piece, which is sanded inward on it's lower edge by about 25 degrees. I then cut the molding in.Then I made the rail and glued it to the bottom of the upper piece :
The lower piece was a bit harder to make, as I incorporated the Drop (the fancy round bit at the bottom). I carved a representation of three "leaves" into the drop :
The last bit was easy - glue the two assemblies to the bottom of the Quarter Badge :
Some carving still needs to be done to both upper and lower finishing pieces. This should be fairly easy with all parts fitted to the hull (I hope ).
Danny
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Dan Vadas got a reaction from Elmer Cornish in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
That's about the only way I can see it working too John.
Thanks for the comment Grant .
I'm going back through Volume 2 to make sure I haven't forgotten anything - I skipped a few steps every now and then as I thought it easier or better to do some things "out of sequence".
I've made and fitted the Upper Capstan Pawls, which are the same as those for the Lower Capstan detailed earlier in the build.
Danny
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Dan Vadas got a reaction from billocrates in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
Thank you Mark, overdale, Grant, John, Duff and Richard.
Entry Steps to the Waist
There are two sets of Entry Steps attached to the fixed gangways, one either side. These have "Winding" treads to transition from the curve in the gangways - quite tricky things to get right as the angles for the slots in the fore stiles are different to the aft ones.
I cut the fore slots at 30 degrees, and the aft ones at 27.5 degrees. This gave the required "twist" in the steps.
The pics will tell the story of how I made them :
Danny
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Dan Vadas got a reaction from billocrates in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
Gallows Crosspiece
I've made and fitted the Gallows Crosspiece. This is used, not as a Gallows (they used a Yardarm for that ), but as the aft support for the Ship's Boat and spare spars etc. This pic was taken before a finish was applied.
I'm at a bit of a loss to see how the fore end of the boat and spars is supported. There is nothing in TFFM that I can find which is used as a fore support . Any suggestions?
I've also fitted the two half-curved entry steps to the waist which I'd made before I went on holidays.
A couple of progress pics of the decks. I've applied Minwax Wipe-on Poly to all the areas that I hadn't finished beforehand.
Danny
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Dan Vadas got a reaction from billocrates in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
Preparing Tuck Molding and Waist Rails
The Tuck Molding covers the join between the Lower Counter and the Hull Planking that meets it. I'm only fitting the Port side. The outer end of the molding needed shaping to return to the Wales. The inner face needed bevelling to match the angle of the Counter :
The same molding scraper was used for both the tuck molding and the Waist Rail. There is a slight difference in the actual molding, but it wasn't enough to warrant making a new scraper (which is quite a job - I'm using the same scraper for most of my moldings, the difference can't really be seen by eye).
I've prepared a couple of strips of Waist Raiing, which won't be fitted until after the Quarter Badges are installed. The one on the left has it's molding scraped in ready for final trimming to width :
The Scraper :
Danny
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Dan Vadas got a reaction from Timmo in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
But wait John .... there's more .
Lower Finishing
The Lower Finishing is done in three sections - upper and lower sections divided by the Lower Finishing Rail.
I first made the upper piece, which is sanded inward on it's lower edge by about 25 degrees. I then cut the molding in.Then I made the rail and glued it to the bottom of the upper piece :
The lower piece was a bit harder to make, as I incorporated the Drop (the fancy round bit at the bottom). I carved a representation of three "leaves" into the drop :
The last bit was easy - glue the two assemblies to the bottom of the Quarter Badge :
Some carving still needs to be done to both upper and lower finishing pieces. This should be fairly easy with all parts fitted to the hull (I hope ).
Danny
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Dan Vadas got a reaction from Script in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
But wait John .... there's more .
Lower Finishing
The Lower Finishing is done in three sections - upper and lower sections divided by the Lower Finishing Rail.
I first made the upper piece, which is sanded inward on it's lower edge by about 25 degrees. I then cut the molding in.Then I made the rail and glued it to the bottom of the upper piece :
The lower piece was a bit harder to make, as I incorporated the Drop (the fancy round bit at the bottom). I carved a representation of three "leaves" into the drop :
The last bit was easy - glue the two assemblies to the bottom of the Quarter Badge :
Some carving still needs to be done to both upper and lower finishing pieces. This should be fairly easy with all parts fitted to the hull (I hope ).
Danny
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Dan Vadas got a reaction from dgbot in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
But wait John .... there's more .
Lower Finishing
The Lower Finishing is done in three sections - upper and lower sections divided by the Lower Finishing Rail.
I first made the upper piece, which is sanded inward on it's lower edge by about 25 degrees. I then cut the molding in.Then I made the rail and glued it to the bottom of the upper piece :
The lower piece was a bit harder to make, as I incorporated the Drop (the fancy round bit at the bottom). I carved a representation of three "leaves" into the drop :
The last bit was easy - glue the two assemblies to the bottom of the Quarter Badge :
Some carving still needs to be done to both upper and lower finishing pieces. This should be fairly easy with all parts fitted to the hull (I hope ).
Danny
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Dan Vadas got a reaction from Elia in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
But wait John .... there's more .
Lower Finishing
The Lower Finishing is done in three sections - upper and lower sections divided by the Lower Finishing Rail.
I first made the upper piece, which is sanded inward on it's lower edge by about 25 degrees. I then cut the molding in.Then I made the rail and glued it to the bottom of the upper piece :
The lower piece was a bit harder to make, as I incorporated the Drop (the fancy round bit at the bottom). I carved a representation of three "leaves" into the drop :
The last bit was easy - glue the two assemblies to the bottom of the Quarter Badge :
Some carving still needs to be done to both upper and lower finishing pieces. This should be fairly easy with all parts fitted to the hull (I hope ).
Danny
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Dan Vadas got a reaction from CaptainSteve in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
Thank you Aussie and John .
Richard, I'm not great at making Scrapers either - for me it's a matter of trial and error before I achieve anything that looks reasonably like the right shape .
I use a flat Xacto blade with a heavy-duty handle. First I anneal the steel by holding over a gas flame until red hot, and allow to cool without quenching. This softens the steel sufficiently to allow a file to work.
Then I cut a "negative" of the required shape using a thin cutting disc in my Dremel, finishing off with needle files. I angle one side of the cuts to sharpen them - they work best if you pull from the flat side. Some sections of the profile aren't sharpened but rather rounded off to avoid cutting into the timber. These act as guides to follow the edge of the timber or stop the cut at the required depth.
Finally I re-heat the blade and harden it by quenching in oil to cool it quickly.
Another tip - I cut the molding into a wider piece of stock first, then trim it to width on my Byrnes saw. This allows me to hold the otherwise very thin piece firmly without it wanting to wander all over the place.
Danny
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Dan Vadas got a reaction from Jorge Diaz O in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
Preparing Tuck Molding and Waist Rails
The Tuck Molding covers the join between the Lower Counter and the Hull Planking that meets it. I'm only fitting the Port side. The outer end of the molding needed shaping to return to the Wales. The inner face needed bevelling to match the angle of the Counter :
The same molding scraper was used for both the tuck molding and the Waist Rail. There is a slight difference in the actual molding, but it wasn't enough to warrant making a new scraper (which is quite a job - I'm using the same scraper for most of my moldings, the difference can't really be seen by eye).
I've prepared a couple of strips of Waist Raiing, which won't be fitted until after the Quarter Badges are installed. The one on the left has it's molding scraped in ready for final trimming to width :
The Scraper :
Danny
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Dan Vadas got a reaction from CaptainSteve in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
Thanks John and Ben, but "you ain't seen nuthin' yet " .
Cowl Baffle
There is a wire reinforcing ring around the rim of the cowl. This was silver soldered on and cleaned up.
A baffle is attached to the opening of the cowl to regulate air flow to the stove's firebox.
I cut a disc of 0.3mm sheet, drilled two 0.7mm holes through it and silver soldered the two sliding pins. I filed the protruding ends down to simulate a peened over end.
Next I fabricated two sleeves for the slides to travel in from 0.75mm ID tubing and a 0.5mm pin to locate them correctly. These were CA glued into the cowl - too much heat would have been needed to solder them in and I risked destroying my previous work.
Finally two wire handles were drilled into the cowl and CA'd in. The whole assembly was blackened in stages and polished.
Danny
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Dan Vadas got a reaction from CaptainSteve in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
Galley Cowl
Time for some more brass work. The Galley Cowl is 15" in diameter, which scales down to 8mm. The top piece is fitted at a slight angle upwards, about 95 degrees at the join.
I turned the outside diameter first from a piece of 10mm stock - the closest I had. Then I drilled the centre out to 7.5mm - in several steps starting with a 3mm pilot hole :
I made the piece about 5mm longer than needed to allow for a bit of final trimming. I cut the pipe using a fine hacksaw in a mitre box, and finessed the angle to 47.5 degrees on both pieces using my disc sander. I used a piece of scrap to hold the smaller piece - saves burning or sanding down fingers :
The finished article after silver soldering ready for some small details. The assembly will be blackened when it's complete :
Danny
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Dan Vadas got a reaction from CaptainSteve in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
Steam Grating
I've made my first (and maybe ONLY) Grating - this goes over the stove. I'm a bit reluctant to make too many more (maybe some on the quarterdeck) as they hide too much detail beneath.
The grating stock is 0.79mm thick English Box, a fraction oversize (they should be 0.75mm) but I decided to make them the size of a 0.030" kerfed saw blade on the Byrnes saw using the Micrometer Stop.
My first job was to make a list of the spacings (i.e. the Micrometer stops) using a spreadsheet. This made it a lot easier to work out accurately than trying to remember and then calculate each one (especially if I'm interrupted ) :
Then I set up a piece of 2mm thick stock and started cutting 18 slots halfway through using the micrometer to set up each one (I made a couple of spares "just in case" - I needed them too ):
Then I cut each strip off against the fence, again using the micrometer stop. The measurements are identical to the previous cuts :
Assembly is the same as using kit gratings (fiddly, but at least they were cut more accurately than most kit ones). I dipped the grating into diluted PVA and let it dry :
After sanding the grating to size and gluing it into place I sanded the roundup in. I've also fitted the Cowl Base :
Danny
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