Dan Vadas
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Dan Vadas got a reaction from CaptainSteve in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
Thanks John and Ben, but "you ain't seen nuthin' yet " .
Cowl Baffle
There is a wire reinforcing ring around the rim of the cowl. This was silver soldered on and cleaned up.
A baffle is attached to the opening of the cowl to regulate air flow to the stove's firebox.
I cut a disc of 0.3mm sheet, drilled two 0.7mm holes through it and silver soldered the two sliding pins. I filed the protruding ends down to simulate a peened over end.
Next I fabricated two sleeves for the slides to travel in from 0.75mm ID tubing and a 0.5mm pin to locate them correctly. These were CA glued into the cowl - too much heat would have been needed to solder them in and I risked destroying my previous work.
Finally two wire handles were drilled into the cowl and CA'd in. The whole assembly was blackened in stages and polished.
Danny
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Dan Vadas got a reaction from CaptainSteve in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
Galley Cowl
Time for some more brass work. The Galley Cowl is 15" in diameter, which scales down to 8mm. The top piece is fitted at a slight angle upwards, about 95 degrees at the join.
I turned the outside diameter first from a piece of 10mm stock - the closest I had. Then I drilled the centre out to 7.5mm - in several steps starting with a 3mm pilot hole :
I made the piece about 5mm longer than needed to allow for a bit of final trimming. I cut the pipe using a fine hacksaw in a mitre box, and finessed the angle to 47.5 degrees on both pieces using my disc sander. I used a piece of scrap to hold the smaller piece - saves burning or sanding down fingers :
The finished article after silver soldering ready for some small details. The assembly will be blackened when it's complete :
Danny
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Dan Vadas got a reaction from CaptainSteve in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
Steam Grating
I've made my first (and maybe ONLY) Grating - this goes over the stove. I'm a bit reluctant to make too many more (maybe some on the quarterdeck) as they hide too much detail beneath.
The grating stock is 0.79mm thick English Box, a fraction oversize (they should be 0.75mm) but I decided to make them the size of a 0.030" kerfed saw blade on the Byrnes saw using the Micrometer Stop.
My first job was to make a list of the spacings (i.e. the Micrometer stops) using a spreadsheet. This made it a lot easier to work out accurately than trying to remember and then calculate each one (especially if I'm interrupted ) :
Then I set up a piece of 2mm thick stock and started cutting 18 slots halfway through using the micrometer to set up each one (I made a couple of spares "just in case" - I needed them too ):
Then I cut each strip off against the fence, again using the micrometer stop. The measurements are identical to the previous cuts :
Assembly is the same as using kit gratings (fiddly, but at least they were cut more accurately than most kit ones). I dipped the grating into diluted PVA and let it dry :
After sanding the grating to size and gluing it into place I sanded the roundup in. I've also fitted the Cowl Base :
Danny
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Dan Vadas got a reaction from rdsaplala in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
Thanks Aldo, Kevin and Toni .
Steam Grating Coamings
There are two Steam Gratings and a Cowl Cover over the galley stove. These are shown in a different configuration to most of the other Swans, as Vulture's stove is facing the opposite way to them.
I constructed the coamings the same way I did all the previous ones, so there is no point showing that again. The only thing of note is the much larger "roundup" on the athwartships head ledges :
Danny
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Dan Vadas got a reaction from harvey1847 in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
Thanks John and Ben, but "you ain't seen nuthin' yet " .
Cowl Baffle
There is a wire reinforcing ring around the rim of the cowl. This was silver soldered on and cleaned up.
A baffle is attached to the opening of the cowl to regulate air flow to the stove's firebox.
I cut a disc of 0.3mm sheet, drilled two 0.7mm holes through it and silver soldered the two sliding pins. I filed the protruding ends down to simulate a peened over end.
Next I fabricated two sleeves for the slides to travel in from 0.75mm ID tubing and a 0.5mm pin to locate them correctly. These were CA glued into the cowl - too much heat would have been needed to solder them in and I risked destroying my previous work.
Finally two wire handles were drilled into the cowl and CA'd in. The whole assembly was blackened in stages and polished.
Danny
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Dan Vadas got a reaction from harvey1847 in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
Steam Grating
I've made my first (and maybe ONLY) Grating - this goes over the stove. I'm a bit reluctant to make too many more (maybe some on the quarterdeck) as they hide too much detail beneath.
The grating stock is 0.79mm thick English Box, a fraction oversize (they should be 0.75mm) but I decided to make them the size of a 0.030" kerfed saw blade on the Byrnes saw using the Micrometer Stop.
My first job was to make a list of the spacings (i.e. the Micrometer stops) using a spreadsheet. This made it a lot easier to work out accurately than trying to remember and then calculate each one (especially if I'm interrupted ) :
Then I set up a piece of 2mm thick stock and started cutting 18 slots halfway through using the micrometer to set up each one (I made a couple of spares "just in case" - I needed them too ):
Then I cut each strip off against the fence, again using the micrometer stop. The measurements are identical to the previous cuts :
Assembly is the same as using kit gratings (fiddly, but at least they were cut more accurately than most kit ones). I dipped the grating into diluted PVA and let it dry :
After sanding the grating to size and gluing it into place I sanded the roundup in. I've also fitted the Cowl Base :
Danny
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Dan Vadas reacted to riverboat in HMAT Supply by riverboat - FINISHED - Jotika/Caldercraft- 1/64th scale
O.K. ...... now for a little update, at this time I'd like to introduce you all to the ......................
" HMAT SUPPLY CREW "
this is my first go at painting figures, so please excuse the flops here and there The Captain's name is Wesley R. Starboard. his first mate is Lowell L Port ( sound familiar? ), the gun crew are the Flint brothers, Manny , Mo, Jack and Clyde. The Bosun's name is
John Fixit........ last but not least are the rigging crew...... as of this time we have on-board the Shroud brothers ( this is a family oriented ship ), James,John and Joan( how did she get in here??) ... then we have three other guys, and I have no idea who they are!!! they must 've
picked them up at MSW 1 ...Any how . stop by and say hello to them and have a couple
Frank
Capt. Starboard
First Mate L.L Port
gun crew ... the Flint Brothers
Bosun's mate J. Fixit
the Shroud brothers ( and girl )
the three other guys ( I don't know who they are )
and........ two last group pictures!!!!
Hope you all enjoyed meeting the crew!!!! It's a motely looking crew....but then again, look at the ship they're on
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Dan Vadas got a reaction from billocrates in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
Thanks Joe, Aldo and John.
I turned the 4.5mm x 0.8mm sheaves on the lathe.
To cut the slots for the sheaves into the catheads I first drilled a series of 0.9mm holes on the mill. The slots are drilled in a vertical plane, not at right angles to the arms of the catheads so they were set up to the same angles as on the ship :
After drilling the holes I used the mill to "join the dots". This needed a lot of careful passes for each slot - I went deeper in 0.5mm increments - to avoid breaking the drill. The results were pretty good :
The sheaves fitted up. A drop of CA holds the pins, and the sheaves move freely :
Danny
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Dan Vadas got a reaction from mtaylor in HMS Atalanta 1775 by tlevine - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - from TFFM plans
Toni - don't bother at all with trying to keep the lower decks clean of sawdust .... you still have A LOT OF IT to be done ON the model, and it's impossible to keep out. Save that for when the hull is FULLY COMPLETED.
I've been using a similar method to Ed, along with inverting the hull a few times to shake out all the shavings and other debris. I flexible plastic hose which you can use either manually (stick it in your mouth and blow, or if you don't mind the taste of sawdust .... suck ) or attached to a low-pressure compressor can also work wonders .
Danny
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Dan Vadas reacted to tlevine in HMS Atalanta 1775 by tlevine - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - from TFFM plans
Lots of great ideas. Thanks everyone. As far as cleaning... As I am the "admiral", if I make a mess the only person I can complain to is myself. I try not to let it get too out of hand but if you get something crunchy in your dinner and it looks like a carling, oh well.
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Dan Vadas got a reaction from egen in HMS Atalanta 1775 by tlevine - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - from TFFM plans
Toni - don't bother at all with trying to keep the lower decks clean of sawdust .... you still have A LOT OF IT to be done ON the model, and it's impossible to keep out. Save that for when the hull is FULLY COMPLETED.
I've been using a similar method to Ed, along with inverting the hull a few times to shake out all the shavings and other debris. I flexible plastic hose which you can use either manually (stick it in your mouth and blow, or if you don't mind the taste of sawdust .... suck ) or attached to a low-pressure compressor can also work wonders .
Danny
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Dan Vadas got a reaction from Wishmaster in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
Thanks John and Ben, but "you ain't seen nuthin' yet " .
Cowl Baffle
There is a wire reinforcing ring around the rim of the cowl. This was silver soldered on and cleaned up.
A baffle is attached to the opening of the cowl to regulate air flow to the stove's firebox.
I cut a disc of 0.3mm sheet, drilled two 0.7mm holes through it and silver soldered the two sliding pins. I filed the protruding ends down to simulate a peened over end.
Next I fabricated two sleeves for the slides to travel in from 0.75mm ID tubing and a 0.5mm pin to locate them correctly. These were CA glued into the cowl - too much heat would have been needed to solder them in and I risked destroying my previous work.
Finally two wire handles were drilled into the cowl and CA'd in. The whole assembly was blackened in stages and polished.
Danny
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Dan Vadas got a reaction from riverboat in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
Galley Cowl
Time for some more brass work. The Galley Cowl is 15" in diameter, which scales down to 8mm. The top piece is fitted at a slight angle upwards, about 95 degrees at the join.
I turned the outside diameter first from a piece of 10mm stock - the closest I had. Then I drilled the centre out to 7.5mm - in several steps starting with a 3mm pilot hole :
I made the piece about 5mm longer than needed to allow for a bit of final trimming. I cut the pipe using a fine hacksaw in a mitre box, and finessed the angle to 47.5 degrees on both pieces using my disc sander. I used a piece of scrap to hold the smaller piece - saves burning or sanding down fingers :
The finished article after silver soldering ready for some small details. The assembly will be blackened when it's complete :
Danny
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Dan Vadas got a reaction from WackoWolf in HMS Atalanta 1775 by tlevine - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - from TFFM plans
Toni - don't bother at all with trying to keep the lower decks clean of sawdust .... you still have A LOT OF IT to be done ON the model, and it's impossible to keep out. Save that for when the hull is FULLY COMPLETED.
I've been using a similar method to Ed, along with inverting the hull a few times to shake out all the shavings and other debris. I flexible plastic hose which you can use either manually (stick it in your mouth and blow, or if you don't mind the taste of sawdust .... suck ) or attached to a low-pressure compressor can also work wonders .
Danny
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Dan Vadas reacted to EdT in HMS Atalanta 1775 by tlevine - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - from TFFM plans
Toni,
I gave up on all attempts to keep the dust and debris out - masking tape, foil, etc.
I used a dry, long handled, stiff bristled, artists round to loosen dust where it could be reached, then blew it out with the shop vac in reverse mode. You can direct the air through the lower frames from the outside in the final step. I did this periodically throughout the work. I also tried using the pressurized cans for cleaning electronics, but found that not to be necessary. If you use an air compressor, make sure it is either an oil free type, or that the oil trap is clean.
Sometimes a good shake with the model inverted is also needed to dislodge larger bits or to recover parts.
Good luck.
Ed
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Dan Vadas reacted to tlevine in HMS Atalanta 1775 by tlevine - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - from TFFM plans
The framing for the upper deck has started. Hopefully it will look better than the lower deck framing. The biggest difference between the two decks is that there are hanging knees at every beam, slowing down the process considerably. In order to accurately mark the centerline I have wrapped a loop of thread through the ventilation spaces of the hawse pieces. A second thread is secured to this loop and attached to the stem.
The carlings are dry-fit (and at least one of them needs replacing ) and still need their notches for the ledges cut. The pillar has a tenon superiorly to fit into a mortise on the undersurface of the beam. Inferiorly it is simply glued to the deck. The large gap between the hanging knee and the frames occured because I have chosen to omit the ceiling below the deck clamps.
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Dan Vadas got a reaction from rdsaplala in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
Galley Cowl
Time for some more brass work. The Galley Cowl is 15" in diameter, which scales down to 8mm. The top piece is fitted at a slight angle upwards, about 95 degrees at the join.
I turned the outside diameter first from a piece of 10mm stock - the closest I had. Then I drilled the centre out to 7.5mm - in several steps starting with a 3mm pilot hole :
I made the piece about 5mm longer than needed to allow for a bit of final trimming. I cut the pipe using a fine hacksaw in a mitre box, and finessed the angle to 47.5 degrees on both pieces using my disc sander. I used a piece of scrap to hold the smaller piece - saves burning or sanding down fingers :
The finished article after silver soldering ready for some small details. The assembly will be blackened when it's complete :
Danny
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Dan Vadas got a reaction from SkerryAmp in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
Thanks John and Ben, but "you ain't seen nuthin' yet " .
Cowl Baffle
There is a wire reinforcing ring around the rim of the cowl. This was silver soldered on and cleaned up.
A baffle is attached to the opening of the cowl to regulate air flow to the stove's firebox.
I cut a disc of 0.3mm sheet, drilled two 0.7mm holes through it and silver soldered the two sliding pins. I filed the protruding ends down to simulate a peened over end.
Next I fabricated two sleeves for the slides to travel in from 0.75mm ID tubing and a 0.5mm pin to locate them correctly. These were CA glued into the cowl - too much heat would have been needed to solder them in and I risked destroying my previous work.
Finally two wire handles were drilled into the cowl and CA'd in. The whole assembly was blackened in stages and polished.
Danny
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Dan Vadas got a reaction from jaerschen in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
Thanks John and Ben, but "you ain't seen nuthin' yet " .
Cowl Baffle
There is a wire reinforcing ring around the rim of the cowl. This was silver soldered on and cleaned up.
A baffle is attached to the opening of the cowl to regulate air flow to the stove's firebox.
I cut a disc of 0.3mm sheet, drilled two 0.7mm holes through it and silver soldered the two sliding pins. I filed the protruding ends down to simulate a peened over end.
Next I fabricated two sleeves for the slides to travel in from 0.75mm ID tubing and a 0.5mm pin to locate them correctly. These were CA glued into the cowl - too much heat would have been needed to solder them in and I risked destroying my previous work.
Finally two wire handles were drilled into the cowl and CA'd in. The whole assembly was blackened in stages and polished.
Danny
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Dan Vadas got a reaction from Trussben in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
Thanks John and Ben, but "you ain't seen nuthin' yet " .
Cowl Baffle
There is a wire reinforcing ring around the rim of the cowl. This was silver soldered on and cleaned up.
A baffle is attached to the opening of the cowl to regulate air flow to the stove's firebox.
I cut a disc of 0.3mm sheet, drilled two 0.7mm holes through it and silver soldered the two sliding pins. I filed the protruding ends down to simulate a peened over end.
Next I fabricated two sleeves for the slides to travel in from 0.75mm ID tubing and a 0.5mm pin to locate them correctly. These were CA glued into the cowl - too much heat would have been needed to solder them in and I risked destroying my previous work.
Finally two wire handles were drilled into the cowl and CA'd in. The whole assembly was blackened in stages and polished.
Danny
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Dan Vadas got a reaction from riverboat in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
Thanks John and Ben, but "you ain't seen nuthin' yet " .
Cowl Baffle
There is a wire reinforcing ring around the rim of the cowl. This was silver soldered on and cleaned up.
A baffle is attached to the opening of the cowl to regulate air flow to the stove's firebox.
I cut a disc of 0.3mm sheet, drilled two 0.7mm holes through it and silver soldered the two sliding pins. I filed the protruding ends down to simulate a peened over end.
Next I fabricated two sleeves for the slides to travel in from 0.75mm ID tubing and a 0.5mm pin to locate them correctly. These were CA glued into the cowl - too much heat would have been needed to solder them in and I risked destroying my previous work.
Finally two wire handles were drilled into the cowl and CA'd in. The whole assembly was blackened in stages and polished.
Danny
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Dan Vadas got a reaction from Kevin in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
Galley Cowl
Time for some more brass work. The Galley Cowl is 15" in diameter, which scales down to 8mm. The top piece is fitted at a slight angle upwards, about 95 degrees at the join.
I turned the outside diameter first from a piece of 10mm stock - the closest I had. Then I drilled the centre out to 7.5mm - in several steps starting with a 3mm pilot hole :
I made the piece about 5mm longer than needed to allow for a bit of final trimming. I cut the pipe using a fine hacksaw in a mitre box, and finessed the angle to 47.5 degrees on both pieces using my disc sander. I used a piece of scrap to hold the smaller piece - saves burning or sanding down fingers :
The finished article after silver soldering ready for some small details. The assembly will be blackened when it's complete :
Danny
-
Dan Vadas got a reaction from rdsaplala in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
Thanks John and Ben, but "you ain't seen nuthin' yet " .
Cowl Baffle
There is a wire reinforcing ring around the rim of the cowl. This was silver soldered on and cleaned up.
A baffle is attached to the opening of the cowl to regulate air flow to the stove's firebox.
I cut a disc of 0.3mm sheet, drilled two 0.7mm holes through it and silver soldered the two sliding pins. I filed the protruding ends down to simulate a peened over end.
Next I fabricated two sleeves for the slides to travel in from 0.75mm ID tubing and a 0.5mm pin to locate them correctly. These were CA glued into the cowl - too much heat would have been needed to solder them in and I risked destroying my previous work.
Finally two wire handles were drilled into the cowl and CA'd in. The whole assembly was blackened in stages and polished.
Danny
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Dan Vadas got a reaction from Wishmaster in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
Steam Grating
I've made my first (and maybe ONLY) Grating - this goes over the stove. I'm a bit reluctant to make too many more (maybe some on the quarterdeck) as they hide too much detail beneath.
The grating stock is 0.79mm thick English Box, a fraction oversize (they should be 0.75mm) but I decided to make them the size of a 0.030" kerfed saw blade on the Byrnes saw using the Micrometer Stop.
My first job was to make a list of the spacings (i.e. the Micrometer stops) using a spreadsheet. This made it a lot easier to work out accurately than trying to remember and then calculate each one (especially if I'm interrupted ) :
Then I set up a piece of 2mm thick stock and started cutting 18 slots halfway through using the micrometer to set up each one (I made a couple of spares "just in case" - I needed them too ):
Then I cut each strip off against the fence, again using the micrometer stop. The measurements are identical to the previous cuts :
Assembly is the same as using kit gratings (fiddly, but at least they were cut more accurately than most kit ones). I dipped the grating into diluted PVA and let it dry :
After sanding the grating to size and gluing it into place I sanded the roundup in. I've also fitted the Cowl Base :
Danny
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Dan Vadas got a reaction from sonicmcdude in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
Thanks John and Ben, but "you ain't seen nuthin' yet " .
Cowl Baffle
There is a wire reinforcing ring around the rim of the cowl. This was silver soldered on and cleaned up.
A baffle is attached to the opening of the cowl to regulate air flow to the stove's firebox.
I cut a disc of 0.3mm sheet, drilled two 0.7mm holes through it and silver soldered the two sliding pins. I filed the protruding ends down to simulate a peened over end.
Next I fabricated two sleeves for the slides to travel in from 0.75mm ID tubing and a 0.5mm pin to locate them correctly. These were CA glued into the cowl - too much heat would have been needed to solder them in and I risked destroying my previous work.
Finally two wire handles were drilled into the cowl and CA'd in. The whole assembly was blackened in stages and polished.
Danny
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