Dan Vadas

Upper Deck Framing Finished
 
When the Upper Well was finished the remainder of the Upper Deck Framing was installed :
 
 

 

Hi Danny,
 
Thank you for your kind comments , it was your log on the old site that gave me the ideas to build her this way

Hi Aldo. I doubt if ANY pieces are the same shape/length because of the differences in the converging angles    - theoretically they should be the same (or a mirror) for a particular piece on the port/starboard side.
 
  Danny

Of course I understood (really? it was a challenge in anycase! ), but probably I used not enough smiling emoticons in the answer 

Aft Bulkhead Doors
 
The bulkhead doors were made in similar fashion to the solid panels. A section at the top of each door was cut out of the Holly insert a little larger than the hole in the outer panels. A piece of acrylic was placed into this cutout, and the three pieces were glued together. I placed each assembly under a sheet of glass and held it down with a brass weight until they dried - this prevented any warping :
 


 
Thin pieces (0.5mm x 0.3mm) were added to each side of the door for the munions in each pane :
 

 
  Danny

Carl, those are the Draft (or Draught) Marks - a gauge of how much the ship is loaded.
 
Rudder Coat
 
A feature rarely seen on a model is the Rudder Coat - a tarred canvas that prevents water from entering through the helm port.
 
I made it from 1500 thread per inch Egyptian Cotton, which I colored with diluted Walnut wood stain. This was then PVA glued into place - one face at a time allowing each one to dry before proceeding to the next :
 



 
Wedges were used to hold the upper edges in place while the glue dried. The extra will be trimmed off later :
 



 
  Danny

Hmm ... Google Image Search comes up with either Huey, Dewey or Louie   .
 
  Danny

the fun is in the search not googling the image and have it straight away
 
and i am learning a lot about ship types and all so i get soemthing out of it

Wayne,
 
When this game first started in MSW 1.0, there was no Google Image Search.  Clues were provided periodically Sometimes there were several days or even weeks before the ship was identified.  It wasn't nearly as fast paced as it is now.  And for what Danny does.... good for him.  Somethings should be a challenge, right? 

Thanks John, Grant, Mark, Tom, Michael, Martin, Brian, Frank, Christian, Allan and Juergen . Sorry for the late reply - I've been away for a few days.
 
 
 
Martin and Allan - no Rocket Science involved here   . I simply cut the rebate on the outside (away from the fence) edge of a wider piece of "squared up" stock FIRST, and then cut off the frame to width. Both those steps are very easily done that way, but virtually IMPOSSIBLE to do if you try and cut the rebate into an already sized piece.
 
The rebates for the corners were simply done with an Xacto knife.
 
  Danny

Hi all,
 
A small update to provide Augie his fix and some pictures to keep "you know who" happy.
 
I completed the framing of the launch today.  The technique of soaking two strips, laminating them and clamping around the formers seems to have worked very well and was quite quick once I got into a rhythm.  For those with a tighter bend I employed some heat from an old electric plank bender:
 

 
Funny, I must have had this thing for 20 years and never got on with it for general planking (I prefer to use a steam iron generally), but for this job it was exactly the right tool. 
 
Here's a view of all the whole frames completed:
 

 
And then the addition of the four cant frames per side in the bows:
 

 
Here's a view from the other side.  Here you can clearly see the apron.  I had to remove this earlier to fit the whole frames as it interfered with the plug.  However, I needed to reinstall it in order to install the cant frames.
 

 
Fairing these frames is a somewhat delicate matter as you can imagine.  Here is shot showing how I used the fingers of one hand to support the frames from the other side while fairing:
 

 
And this is the weapon of choice for fairing (and all other sanding on this little project to date).  It is a flexible sanding stick with a tapered end.  They are available in a number of grades, but this is the coarse shown here.  A very useful little tool.
 

 
Tomorrow, I will commence the exterior planking. 
 
 

Hi all,
 
I've had several requests to show how I built some special clamps that come in particularly useful if you are building a Fully Framed hull. They could also come in handy for other more "conventional" builds.
 
 

 
 
There are three types of Clamp :
 
1. The first goes between Frames to hold internal or external planks.
2. "Spreader" clamps that hold internal planking.
3. Parallel clamps that don't pull two pieces out of line like normal spring clamps have a tendency to do.
 
Full Credit for these clamps goes to EdT (Ed Tosti) - I'm only showing my method of copying his ideas. Ed's are probably of superior quality to mine - I've used a more simplified approach that can be done fairly easily by most builders using common Right-Hand threaded screws.
 
"Between the Frames" Clamps
 
 
In Use :
 
 
These are made from 3/4" x 5/32" (19mm x 4mm) brass machine screws or threaded bar and matching Wing Nuts - I found them at Bunnings, but they should be available at any reasonably good Hardware Store. The other brass part is some thin brass strip - I used 0.5mm. Note that you can use any sizes of screws and strip - I just used whatever I had "on hand" or could buy easily. I wouldn't go much thinner than the 0.5mm strip though - it's plenty strong enough and will fit right down into very narrow gaps between frames.
 
I cut the heads off the screws, cut a 4mm deep slot into the cut-off end and Silver Soldered the two pieces together. Then I drilled a 2.5mm hole to accept the 2mm Pin. A bit of "oversize" makes it a lot easier to push the pin through the hole.
 
The wooden pieces are made from a good hardwood - I used Australian Cherry Ballart because I had quite a bit of it in stock, but any other close-grained hardwood would do the job. A 2mm hole was drilled for the pin - this needs to be a good but "easy" slide-in fit.
 
The only item of note not shown in the pics below is some extra bracing I glued to one face of the larger block - this prevents the wood from splitting when pressure is applied. It strengthens the saw cut (these pics were taken before I had my first "Block Failure"). Note the direction of the grain in the large block.
 
 

 

 
 
 
Spreader Clamps
 
 
In Use :
 
 
These Clamps are particularly useful when you need to clamp planking etc and can't use one of the "Between the Frames" clamps, although they can be used in combination with one of them as shown in the pic above. They work very well anywhere inside a hull. I made these in 4 or 5 different lengths depending on the position in the hull they were to be placed. All parts were interchangeable, so a lot of length combinations could be used - the only difference is in the lengths of the brass tubing, the "heads" and "tails" of the clamps are all identical.
 
I used 4mm x 25mm RH-threaded Stainless Steel Machine Screws, Washers and Nuts (again because I had a lot of them in stock - any other combination around that size would be OK). The "swivels" are made from 1/4" (6.5mm) brass round bar that have been drilled and tapped to accept the screws. 5mm brass tubing of various lengths is the only other thing needed.
 
Again, the wooden pieces are made from a good hardwood. The "head" is drilled to accept the swivel, the "tail" is epoxied to the screw to prevent it from falling out when the clamp is tightened. I sanded the end of the "head" to allow it to pivot when necessary.
 
 

 

 
 
Parallel Clamps
 
 
In Use :
 
 
These clamps are particularly useful when you need to clamp two pieces together without distorting their faces from each other. They also avoid the twisting effect that you can get with G-clamps, but are usually used in similar situations to them.
 
They are made from two pieces of hardwood, 8mm x 11mm x 65mm. The same size Swivels as the "Spreader Clamps" are used, with the same size screws as the "Between the Frames" clamps. Again, use any sizes close to the mark that you can get - it's not all that vital.
 
Here's an Exploded View of the Clamp :
 
 

 
 
And a description of how it goes together is below. Two Swivels are threaded to accept the screws, one is a "clearance" hole drilled right through, and the fourth is a clearance hole drilled part-way into the swivel to act as a "stopper". This one is glued into the timber with Silicone or Epoxy.
 
 

 
 
I made about 18 "Between the Frames" clamps, 10 "Spreader" clamps and 6 "Parallel" clamps - that seems to be adequate.
 
  Danny

Making Light Frames
 
To make the Light Frames themselves I cut a channel using my Byrnes saw. This is 1.5mm wide by 1.0mm thick, and has a 0.5mm rebate in the middle to hold the acrylic "glass" which is 0.48mm thick :
 


 
To make the corners I cut the rebate out of one section, leaving it slightly long - this will be sanded back when it is completed :
 


 
I just made this piece up as a demonstration. I'll make a proper jig to assemble the pieces later.
 
  Danny

Making Light Frames
 
To make the Light Frames themselves I cut a channel using my Byrnes saw. This is 1.5mm wide by 1.0mm thick, and has a 0.5mm rebate in the middle to hold the acrylic "glass" which is 0.48mm thick :
 


 
To make the corners I cut the rebate out of one section, leaving it slightly long - this will be sanded back when it is completed :
 


 
I just made this piece up as a demonstration. I'll make a proper jig to assemble the pieces later.
 
  Danny

HMS Vulture Build Log Resurrection
 
 
Following the Crash of  MSW in February 2013 I’ve attempted to re-create as much of my former Build log as I can. The  following is a very truncated version of the original. It doesn’t contain any of the comments posted by others, as they were unrecoverable. My apologies for that.
 
I've also left out the MISTAKES I made during the construction in the "Resurrection" section. Some of them can be found in this Topic : How I Fix Boo-Boos and Oopsies
 
The original Build Log was started on June 11 2011. Actual work on the model commenced on Wednesday August 17 2011.
The Build Log was terminated on February 14 2013 (the day the Server crashed), and Re-building it started the day MSW came back on-line.
 
 
_____________________________________________________________________
Following is an Index to "Points of Interest". you can Click on the Links to jump straight to the First Post that starts a particular Section.
 
Links to other Sites in the following pages, e.g. Tool Suppliers, look like this : Sherline . You can jump straight to their Webpage by Clicking on them. Note : I have no affiliation with any of the Suppliers I have posted Links to - just a happy customer.
 
To return to the Index Click on the "HMS Vulture" Link in the Signature in one of my Posts, or use the "Back" Arrow of your Browser. There are no Signatures under my posts in the Reconstruction phase to save page room.
 
The Index will be updated as work progresses.
 
____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
 
 
Index to Points of Interest
 
Page 1
HMS Vulture - some History of the ship + Links to Build Logs of other Swan Class Ships on MSW
Research and Materials + Links to Suppliers
How the Model will be built
Tools
Preparations
Clamps and Planking Pins
 
Laying the Keel
Lower Apron
Stem and Fore Deadwood
Aft Deadwood
Sternpost
Rising Wood
Cutting Rabbets and Fitting the Mounting Nuts
Cutting, Shaping and Fitting Transoms
Cutting the Bowsprit Seat
Fashion Pieces
Bollard Timbers
Timberheads and Bowsprit Chock
Forward Cant Frames and Hawse Timbers
Forward Cant Frames
Aft Cant Frames
Side Counter Timbers and Timbers on the Side Counter
Aft Cant Fairing
Knee of the Head Construction
Aft Square Frames
Frame Bend
Shifted Toptimber
Fixed Blocks
 
Page 2
Frames all Fitted
Toptimber Aligning and External Fairing
Treenailing Frames
Keelson
Pump Recesses
Stemson
Fillings
Harpins
Ribbands
Limber Strakes
Floorhead Thickstuff and Treenails
Mast Steps
Aft Crutch and Lower Breasthook
Limber Boards
Lower Well and Shot Locker
Chain Pump Inlets
Pump Tubes
Chain Pump Sprocket
Lower Deck Clamps
Footwaling
Internal Treenailing
Aft Platform
Aft Platform Carlings and Ledges
Aft Platform Bulkheads and Spirit Room Hatch
Lower Deck Beams
Fore Platform and Bulkheads
Lower Deck Hook
Block Room and Tar Room Bulkheads
Magazine Bulkheads and Mizzen Boxing
Lightroom
 
Page 3
Finishing the Magazine
Aft Platform Rooms
Upper Deck Clamps and Ceiling
Lower Deck Beam Carling Mortices
Lodging and Hanging Knees
Pillars in the Hold
Opposed Knees, Beam Arms and Iron Knees
Lower Deck Beams, Carlings and Ledges
Chain Pump Inlets and Tubes Fitted
Sleepers
Lower Deck Waterways and Spirketting
Riding Bitts - stage 1
Upper Deck Beams
Lower Deck Planking
Hooked Planks
Lower Deck Treenailing
Hatch Coamings and Companions
Lower Deck Breasthook
Forward Room Bulkheads
Upper Deck Pillars and Beam Set
Forward Rooms Bulkheads and Scuttles
Forward Bulkheads Finishing
Riding Bitts and Sail Room
Wing Transom Knees
Bread Room Bulkhead and Pillars
Aft Bulkheads
Pantry
Upper Well
Upper Deck Framing Finished
Upper Deck Ledges
 
Page 4
Upper Deck Waterways
Mast Wedges
Main Mast Partners
Aft Beam Arms, Carlings and Ledges
Mizzen and Foremast Partners
Main Topsail Sheet Bitts part 1
Upper Deck Hatch Coamings
Capstan Step
Upper Deck Planking
Top and Butt (Anchor Stock) Deck Planking
Upper Deck Treenailng
Counter Timbers
String in the Waist
Quarterdeck Clamp and Transom
Ebony Wales and "Dummy" Treenails
"Black" Strake
Topside Planking
Port Stops and Sweep Ports
Spirketting,Quckwork and Inside Sweep Ports Trimming
Treenailing Spirketting and Quickwork
Upper Deck Companions
Helm Port
Lower Counter Planking
Garboard Strake
Lower Hull Planking
Top and Butt Planking
Tricky Plank
Hull Planking Continues
Hull Planking Finished
Starboard Sheer Strake
 
Page 5
Scuppers
Main Topsail Sheet Bitts
Main Jeer Bitts
Forecastle Deck Beams
Hawse Holes Finishing
Fore Topsail Sheet Bitts
Bucklers
Upper Deck Breasthook
Bowsprit Partner, Hanging and Lodging Knees
Manger
Riding Bitts
Galley Stove 1
Galley Stove 2
 
END OF BUILD LOG RECONSTRUCTION
 
Chain Pump Cisterns
Pump Chain
Pump Brakes
Rhodings
Forward Stanchions, Cistern Hood and Pump Dale
Capstans
 
Rudder
    Main Piece
    Bearding
    Pintles
    Spectacle Plate
    Bands
    Gudgeons
    Rudder Shipped
    Rudder Coat
 
Forward Athwartships Aft Cabin Bulkhead
Bulkhead Doors
Aft Athwartships Aft Cabin Bulkhead
Longitudinal Aft Cabin Bulkhead
Upper Counter Planking
Forecastle Bulkhead
Forecastle Bulkhead Lights
Making Stern Light Frames
Stern Lights Completing
Rudder Head Trunk
Great Cabin Lockers
Completing Great Cabin
Rudder Head Partners
Transom Iron Knees
 
Guns
    Brackets
    Barrels
    Capsquares
    Drilling the Bolt Holes
    Axletrees
    Carriage Assembly Jig
    Trucks
    Bed
    Quoins
    Hardware
    Breech Rigging
    Side Tackles
  
Forecastle and Quarterdeck Carlings
Forecastle Knees
Catheads
Catheads Fitted
Cathead Caps
Steam Grating Coamings
Steam Grating
Galley Cowl
Cowl Baffle
Breast Beams
Forecastle Half-Door and Light
Quarterdeck Hanging Knees
Cast Knee
Quarterdeck Lodging Knees
Beam Bracket
Quarterdeck Hatch Coamings
Capstan Step
Forecastle and Quarterdeck Waterways
Forecastle and Quarterdeck Planking
Forecastle and Quarterdeck Treenailing
Bulwark Spirketting
Gun Rigging Re-do
Gangboard Knees
Planksheers in the Waist
Hances
Making Timberheads
Timberhead Jig
Forecastle Planksheers
Forecastle Timberheads
Quarterdeck Timberheads
Gangways and Gangboards
Entry Steps to the Waist
Gallows Crosspiece
Preparing Tuck Molding and Waist Rails
 
Quarter Badge
   Quarter Badge Stools and Munions
   Upper Finishing
   Lower Finishing
   Carving the Finishing and Glazing Lights
   Pilasters
   Quarter Badge Crown
 
Chesstrees
Channels
Sheer Rails
Standards
Drift Rails
Main Studding Sail Boom Irons
Fenders
Entry Steps
Swivel Gun Mounts
Fore Jeer Bitts
Belfry
Forecastle Railing and Spar Rack
Companion Top
Ship's Wheel
Quarterdeck Ladderway
Ladderway Railings
Quarterdeck Breastwork
Fixed Gangway Newel Posts and Railings
Taffarel
Taffarel Capping Rail
Ensign Staff Block and Clamp
Quarter Pieces
Roughtree Rail
Brake Pumps Fitted
Steering Rigging
 
 
 
This INDEX has grown too large, so I will start a 2nd one. It can be accessed by clicking the link below.
 
Link to Index Part 2

Forecastle Bulkhead Lights
 
I've just about finished all the Forecastle Bulkhead, just a bit of cleaning up and Minwaxing to go.
 
I've made the two Lights, as well as the two hinged panels under them. They are hinged for the anchor cables to pass through as I previously mentioned. There is no real documentation that supports the design of these - I fitted them the only logical way I could guess at.
 
The Lights are made from 1.2mm x 2mm Boxwood rebated to accept the acrylic "glass". The filler and munion strip is only 0.4mm x 0.8mm - this was glued in and then sanded flush with the framing :
 


 
The bulkhead with the Starboard side Light and Cable Panel fitted. I'll fit the Port side ones when I have completed the forecastle deck framing as these will both be fitted in the open position :
 

 
Viewed from Aft :
 

 
Viewed from Forward :
 

 
  Danny

Making Light Frames
 
To make the Light Frames themselves I cut a channel using my Byrnes saw. This is 1.5mm wide by 1.0mm thick, and has a 0.5mm rebate in the middle to hold the acrylic "glass" which is 0.48mm thick :
 


 
To make the corners I cut the rebate out of one section, leaving it slightly long - this will be sanded back when it is completed :
 


 
I just made this piece up as a demonstration. I'll make a proper jig to assemble the pieces later.
 
  Danny

Making Light Frames
 
To make the Light Frames themselves I cut a channel using my Byrnes saw. This is 1.5mm wide by 1.0mm thick, and has a 0.5mm rebate in the middle to hold the acrylic "glass" which is 0.48mm thick :
 


 
To make the corners I cut the rebate out of one section, leaving it slightly long - this will be sanded back when it is completed :
 


 
I just made this piece up as a demonstration. I'll make a proper jig to assemble the pieces later.
 
  Danny

Making Light Frames
 
To make the Light Frames themselves I cut a channel using my Byrnes saw. This is 1.5mm wide by 1.0mm thick, and has a 0.5mm rebate in the middle to hold the acrylic "glass" which is 0.48mm thick :
 


 
To make the corners I cut the rebate out of one section, leaving it slightly long - this will be sanded back when it is completed :
 


 
I just made this piece up as a demonstration. I'll make a proper jig to assemble the pieces later.
 
  Danny

Making Light Frames
 
To make the Light Frames themselves I cut a channel using my Byrnes saw. This is 1.5mm wide by 1.0mm thick, and has a 0.5mm rebate in the middle to hold the acrylic "glass" which is 0.48mm thick :
 


 
To make the corners I cut the rebate out of one section, leaving it slightly long - this will be sanded back when it is completed :
 


 
I just made this piece up as a demonstration. I'll make a proper jig to assemble the pieces later.
 
  Danny

Making Light Frames
 
To make the Light Frames themselves I cut a channel using my Byrnes saw. This is 1.5mm wide by 1.0mm thick, and has a 0.5mm rebate in the middle to hold the acrylic "glass" which is 0.48mm thick :
 


 
To make the corners I cut the rebate out of one section, leaving it slightly long - this will be sanded back when it is completed :
 


 
I just made this piece up as a demonstration. I'll make a proper jig to assemble the pieces later.
 
  Danny

The photo's on this site are not always correct. if you study the ones on this page you will see that the top photo and the bottom photo are the Pandora and the middle three are the bounty. I knew Google would point to this page and it would be assumed that it was the Lily(bounty).

Forecastle Bulkhead Lights
 
I've just about finished all the Forecastle Bulkhead, just a bit of cleaning up and Minwaxing to go.
 
I've made the two Lights, as well as the two hinged panels under them. They are hinged for the anchor cables to pass through as I previously mentioned. There is no real documentation that supports the design of these - I fitted them the only logical way I could guess at.
 
The Lights are made from 1.2mm x 2mm Boxwood rebated to accept the acrylic "glass". The filler and munion strip is only 0.4mm x 0.8mm - this was glued in and then sanded flush with the framing :
 


 
The bulkhead with the Starboard side Light and Cable Panel fitted. I'll fit the Port side ones when I have completed the forecastle deck framing as these will both be fitted in the open position :
 

 
Viewed from Aft :
 

 
Viewed from Forward :
 

 
  Danny

Forecastle Bulkhead Lights
 
I've just about finished all the Forecastle Bulkhead, just a bit of cleaning up and Minwaxing to go.
 
I've made the two Lights, as well as the two hinged panels under them. They are hinged for the anchor cables to pass through as I previously mentioned. There is no real documentation that supports the design of these - I fitted them the only logical way I could guess at.
 
The Lights are made from 1.2mm x 2mm Boxwood rebated to accept the acrylic "glass". The filler and munion strip is only 0.4mm x 0.8mm - this was glued in and then sanded flush with the framing :
 


 
The bulkhead with the Starboard side Light and Cable Panel fitted. I'll fit the Port side ones when I have completed the forecastle deck framing as these will both be fitted in the open position :
 

 
Viewed from Aft :
 

 
Viewed from Forward :
 

 
  Danny

No problem at all Anja. It's this one Kalmar Nyckel . You needed to remove more than the flags to stump "Google Image" .
 
  Danny