Dan Vadas

Thanks Scott, John.
 
 
I had to rebuild the forward small platform as the deck pillar didn't line up with the deckbeam above. 
More deck pillars and stancions added, a small portion of the bulkhead is made too. The upper breast hook was made using card templates and trimmed further until a snug fit was obtained.
 

 

 

 
 
Remco

Thank you Grant.
 
Upper Counter Planking
 
As it's time to do some more work around the stern area - framing the lights will be next - I planked the Upper Counter and trimmed off the excess planking at the side :
 




 
  Danny

Getting off Frank's feet and back to your question Sjors - yes, fitting Futtock Staves is a good idea. They will give you something solid to attach the Futtock Shrouds to, and will stop the tops of the shrouds from spreading :
 


 
  Danny

Thank you Grant.
 
Upper Counter Planking
 
As it's time to do some more work around the stern area - framing the lights will be next - I planked the Upper Counter and trimmed off the excess planking at the side :
 




 
  Danny

I have some mica, but it's way too thin and very discolored - might be OK in a 1:200 scale model .
 
Longitudinal Aft Cabin Bulkhead
 
There is a longitudinal bulkhead separating the Captain's Sleeping Quarters from the Coach. This is made in similar fashion to the two athwartships bulkheads. At this stage this bulkhead - and the forward one - are only dry-fitted. Both cabins in this area share accommodation with a 6-pounder, and all the eyebolts etc for them will need to be fitted first. I still have to cut the beams and ledges into it's top edge, fit the Cants to the bulkhead and give it a coat of finish :
 




 
  Danny

Thank you Grant.
 
Upper Counter Planking
 
As it's time to do some more work around the stern area - framing the lights will be next - I planked the Upper Counter and trimmed off the excess planking at the side :
 




 
  Danny

I have some mica, but it's way too thin and very discolored - might be OK in a 1:200 scale model .
 
Longitudinal Aft Cabin Bulkhead
 
There is a longitudinal bulkhead separating the Captain's Sleeping Quarters from the Coach. This is made in similar fashion to the two athwartships bulkheads. At this stage this bulkhead - and the forward one - are only dry-fitted. Both cabins in this area share accommodation with a 6-pounder, and all the eyebolts etc for them will need to be fitted first. I still have to cut the beams and ledges into it's top edge, fit the Cants to the bulkhead and give it a coat of finish :
 




 
  Danny

I have some mica, but it's way too thin and very discolored - might be OK in a 1:200 scale model .
 
Longitudinal Aft Cabin Bulkhead
 
There is a longitudinal bulkhead separating the Captain's Sleeping Quarters from the Coach. This is made in similar fashion to the two athwartships bulkheads. At this stage this bulkhead - and the forward one - are only dry-fitted. Both cabins in this area share accommodation with a 6-pounder, and all the eyebolts etc for them will need to be fitted first. I still have to cut the beams and ledges into it's top edge, fit the Cants to the bulkhead and give it a coat of finish :
 




 
  Danny

Mark and Pat, thanks for looking in.
 
The mast partner has been installed and now it is time to install the upper deck clamps.  There are four strakes and an air space between the top of the lower deck and the upper deck beams.  The first task was to measure the top of the beams on the draughts and transfer this to the Mylar.  The sheer is less pronounced fore and aft than shown on the Mylar.  This height was then marked on the inside of the hull and a strip of tape was placed to ensure a smooth run for this line and also make sure that the line is parallel to the gun port sills.  The second photo shows the model laid on its side in order to show the run of the clamp to the stemson.  The beams are 7" in height and let into the clamp 1".  Therefore I measured down 6" to find the height of the top of the clamp.  This line was marked in pencil. 
 

 

 

 

Hi Sjors,
 
Nice even spacing on the deadeyes - the jig works well .
 
A couple of things to make it easier and neater for you :
 
 
My technique for tying the upper deadeyes to the shrouds works like this :
 
(One thing I'd do differently with your jig is to cut the top part lower to give you more room to wrap the siezing (lashing) around the shroud without the jig getting in the way.)
 
The siezing rope should be VERY thin - yours looks too thick. Fine cotton or linen thread works the best - don't use nylon, it doesn't hold it's shape very well and keeps coming undone. I actually use a very thin fishing line for this, but that's another story.
 
First I loop the shroud around the deadeye and tie the bottom siezing with a double overhand knot and pull it tight to hold it in place. Sometimes I need to use tweezers around the shroud to slide the knot hard against the deadeye. Then I use some diluted PVA glue around the deadeye and the knot and let it dry.
 
Next I wrap the siezing around the shroud 6 or 7 times and pull the last turn back under itself, glue the siezing and let it dry again. There are actually three siezings to be done on each deadeye/shroud, but you can just use one if you want to (it's a bit easier, and most of it will be hidden by the lanyard anyway - see below). Keep wrapping the siezing until you get to the end of the shroud "tail". Make sure you have cut all the shroud "tails" the same length.
 


 
Now is the time to remove the deadeyes/shrouds from the jig so each one can be tightened. The Lanyard rope should be half as thick as the shroud.
 
The ends of the Lanyards should wrap around the shroud tail about 3 or 4 times and finish with a small siezing :
 

 
 
A better order would be to do the Shrouds (including those under the bowsprit - yes, fit it NOW), Forestays, Ratlines (before too much other rigging gets in the way) and Backstays - finish ALL the Standing Rigging before you even think of hoisting the Yards and start on the Running Rigging. You need to have all your Masts and Bowsprit correctly aligned BEFORE you start any Running Rigging.
 
Another tip : Don't "finish" any of the Lanyards on the Shrouds yet - they may (WILL) need some "fine tuning" as you progress with the Standing Rigging. A simple single knot will hold them for now. If you have used PVA to hold the Lanyards you have already fitted and find you need to adjust them, just brush some water on them to soften the glue and you will be able to undo them again.
 
  Danny

Here's one that will Google, but I couldn't resist it :
 

 
  Danny

So do I Sjors, then I could get on Ebay and buy some of those microscope slides   .
 
  Danny

Hi all,
 
Apart from a Finish the bulkheads are completed. The Hinges came from the Admiralty Models PE set, and the doorknobs are the heads off brass pins. They have all been epoxied in place :
 


 
There are doorknobs on both sides of the doors. To give you an idea of the actual size of these, the pic below is about twice the size of the real thing (on a 22" screen) :
 

 
  Danny

The final pieces of the rudder itself - I've inserted 52 blackened brass "bolts" into the pintles and also the 19 bolts that go through the main piece and blade to hold them together :
 


 
  Danny

Aft Athwartships Aft Cabin Bulkhead
 
This bulkhead was made in similar fashion to the preceding one. The only differences are in the height and width, with the outer panels significantly narrower due to the width of the hull at that point. The doors and central panel are the same sizes as the forward bulkhead (camera distortion makes them look different to each other) :
 


 
  Danny

Aft Athwartships Aft Cabin Bulkhead
 
This bulkhead was made in similar fashion to the preceding one. The only differences are in the height and width, with the outer panels significantly narrower due to the width of the hull at that point. The doors and central panel are the same sizes as the forward bulkhead (camera distortion makes them look different to each other) :
 


 
  Danny

Hi Sjors,
 
Do you mean that the kit Chains are a bit too large in diameter and the deadeye keeps turning around? You should have squeezed them tighter before you fitted them to the chainplates (remember that for the next model ).
 
No problem, it's easily fixed. Just carve a small wedge and push it between the bottom of the deadeye and the chainplate like in my diagram. Rig up the deadeye and remove the wedge - use it on the next one if needed.
 

 
  Danny

Aft Athwartships Aft Cabin Bulkhead
 
This bulkhead was made in similar fashion to the preceding one. The only differences are in the height and width, with the outer panels significantly narrower due to the width of the hull at that point. The doors and central panel are the same sizes as the forward bulkhead (camera distortion makes them look different to each other) :
 


 
  Danny

Hi Sjors,
 
Do you mean that the kit Chains are a bit too large in diameter and the deadeye keeps turning around? You should have squeezed them tighter before you fitted them to the chainplates (remember that for the next model ).
 
No problem, it's easily fixed. Just carve a small wedge and push it between the bottom of the deadeye and the chainplate like in my diagram. Rig up the deadeye and remove the wedge - use it on the next one if needed.
 

 
  Danny

Aft Athwartships Aft Cabin Bulkhead
 
This bulkhead was made in similar fashion to the preceding one. The only differences are in the height and width, with the outer panels significantly narrower due to the width of the hull at that point. The doors and central panel are the same sizes as the forward bulkhead (camera distortion makes them look different to each other) :
 


 
  Danny

Aft Athwartships Aft Cabin Bulkhead
 
This bulkhead was made in similar fashion to the preceding one. The only differences are in the height and width, with the outer panels significantly narrower due to the width of the hull at that point. The doors and central panel are the same sizes as the forward bulkhead (camera distortion makes them look different to each other) :
 


 
  Danny

Aft Athwartships Aft Cabin Bulkhead
 
This bulkhead was made in similar fashion to the preceding one. The only differences are in the height and width, with the outer panels significantly narrower due to the width of the hull at that point. The doors and central panel are the same sizes as the forward bulkhead (camera distortion makes them look different to each other) :
 


 
  Danny

Thank you Grant, Michiel, Mark, John and Brian.
 
I've (almost) finished the Forward Aft Bulkhead - only the hinges and locks to go. I spot-glued the upper cant to the underside of a spare quarterdeck beam and glued the three solid sections and four doors to the cant and each other :
 


 
Two pics of the assembly dry-fitted - very little modification was needed :
 


 
A closeup of one of the Cants for Brian. These are 3" square battens with a rounded top-outer edge. The sections of cant in the door openings will be cut out later :
 

 
  Danny

Thank you Grant, Michiel, Mark, John and Brian.
 
I've (almost) finished the Forward Aft Bulkhead - only the hinges and locks to go. I spot-glued the upper cant to the underside of a spare quarterdeck beam and glued the three solid sections and four doors to the cant and each other :
 


 
Two pics of the assembly dry-fitted - very little modification was needed :
 


 
A closeup of one of the Cants for Brian. These are 3" square battens with a rounded top-outer edge. The sections of cant in the door openings will be cut out later :
 

 
  Danny

A milestone has been achieved.  The lower deck structure has been finished.  I have been applying finish to the underside of the beam sets before installing them.  The gap in front of lodging knee 17 in the fourth photo occurred because the assembly is not glued in yet and it shifted.  The last photo shows it better positioned.  I will not put on any upper surface finish until after the decking is installed.  Now on to the mizzen partner.