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ECK

NRG Member
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Everything posted by ECK

  1. So finally finished today. I think this coming weekend I will start the Indy project. Have been staring at the box since I got it at the end of Feb and following with interest the builds of Kevin and Glenn (hope your back is getting better so you can get back to your project)
  2. 1 week later standing rigging done. All stays in place. Running rigging this coming week
  3. Finally done with the shrouds so things should be only a few more weeks to complete.
  4. Agree the white bottom looks good and certainly saves a lot of time and swearing when the plates fall off or do not cut correctly. I will still use the full copper plates when I do the Indy. I coppered the Agamemnon and it took quite awhile. Will be interesting when I put the two side by side in the future. Hope to finish Pegasus sometime in June.
  5. Interesting. I coppered it as it was what the plan directed. I was wondering as I did the Sphinx and Duchess from same period and their bottoms were painted. I guess we need to ask Chris Watton as he was the designer of the Pegasus kit.
  6. Also good for tapping/straightening the lie up or down.
  7. Lower shrouds done. My technique for ratlines is 2 hemostats and a 6 mm plank for spacing.
  8. You may notice I substituted pear blocks for more realism to the usual ones. After building Duchess and Sphinx from Vanguard, I was spoiled and will likely always use them. Driving me crazy watching the two Indy builds and not being able to start mine yet. I like to finish a project before starting a new one.
  9. Work was busy but finally completes at the yards and rigged some parts of them. It is out of order but it is easier to get at areas before the shrouds go in and the rigging does not interfere with putting in the shrouds.
  10. Things a bit slow lately as my day job got a bit busy. The foremast is rigged with the yards now. Although not specific in the plans, I tied the main yard as on other ships I have done form our favorite designer Chris. I have jealously been following the 2 Indy build. I hope to start in June. Should finish yards this month and rigging in May. Once the tedious shrouds get done the rest of the rigging goes quickly leaving the anchors and ships boat for last.
  11. After a week or so the masts and bowsprit are done. Next rig the masts then make and rig the yards
  12. Well, the hull is finally done except for 2 things I add at the end as I always otherwise break them. Another 6-8 weeks to finish. I am getting jealous of the 2 Indefatigable builds and can't wait to join them.
  13. Stern done and quarter deck. Name will wit s I lost one of the letter and ordered replacement. Soemthings will go on t the very end as I have a bad habit of snagging and breaking hammock nettings and the like.
  14. My solution seems to work ok. No visible gaps and did not have to cut into the wale
  15. Have blinged out the sides , continuing to do the deck and side windows . Interesting issue is that plans have side windows above main wale But pictures on box has it overlapping the wale The usual issue of variances. Mine looks to be slightly over the wale. Will need to build it up to avoid cutting into the wale. The box picture also missing a decoration in the plan picture.
  16. I received the kit and can't wait to start but will be a couple of months to finish my current build. As I was going over the very extensive and great plans I noticed a couple of things: 1. No note is made of when to put in the main deck cannons onto their trucks. Buy the pictures, it looks like after the painting is done. To rig them, mainly the ones you can see would make spray painting difficult as they would be sticking out of the hull. Also to rig all lower guns visible from above requires doing it before the upper deck installed, again making spray painting hard. 2. I do have rigging plans for the long guns from other Vanguard projects but no rigging plan for the carronades. I have seen various versions in these forms but non specific to the eyelets on this model's version. I think others now starting their build logs will hit these issues before me so will keep an eye out. Overall an incredible build
  17. Things continue to progress. Am doing a few things slightly out of order in order to let me rig the guns soon. I also on Tuesday received my long awaited Christmas present weighing in at over 30 lbs. I plan to finish Pegasus first but it is tempting. Notice I painted the rudder straps copper to prevent electrolysis.
  18. I will in the next day or so. Have to rig the visible guns now.
  19. After a week of plating (rudder took an entire afternoon), covered in matte polyurathane, lower hull done . Now I don't have to turn it over any more. Although not in the instructions, I pinned all the rudder pintles. Also received an email that the Indefatigable kit I ordered is finally on the way. It will be a major temptation to start it but I will likely finish Pegasus first and then relish the time working on Indy. Pre cleaning and polyurathane: Post finish:
  20. Wale painted , waterline in and painted copper for background. Will start the long process of coppering.
  21. I agree with all of the above.Given the paint and copper to follow, I think that the offending areas will be covered and the exposed wood will be ok. A lot is self satisfaction of knowing what lies beneath. I take comfort that when I look at the pictures in the build manual for the Indefatigable, similar issues can be seen.
  22. Second planking done, pre and post sanding pictures, inner bulwarks done and painted and wale in place
  23. Lined up first row of second planking with line of first whale position. I used carpenter's glue and pins to give me time to position it properly (as the pins will be covered by the whale holes not an issue). Now I can start planking using cyano glue.
  24. I used this stuff. Comes out as a nice creamy paste so can spread it all over then sand it down. Comes in several colors as well.
  25. Thanks, hopefully the second plank goes smoothly. First I have to mark the whales for the first row. Will do it that way (I believe it is what Chris Watton recommended as the "designer" mentioned in the instructions) rather than at the gun ports. Then the whale should be easy to place.
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