ECK

Planking the upper decks moving forward row by row. After 4 rows I cut off the pin heads and file them down so I have some skin left by the end of the process. Here 6 rows in: Then 11 rows into it: As I reached the level of Deck 3 and 4 I cut and fitted the cross beams while there was more maneuvering room and have them numbered at their ends for mortaring in the joints.

Finished the stern but may need a bit more sanding. Then the bow Next need to mark the line for the first plank using this device After placing the marks ran a tape line to check the line.

Today completed the second deck and placed the deck holed for the masts. The mini table saw was very handy to do all the cross cutting. With the spacers removed Ended the day by gluing the bow and stern pieces so they cure overnight. Next steps involve a lot more sanding to fare the hull.

Started putting in the cross beams for the second deck

Finally finished dry fitting the lower deck. As I and others have said, you can never have to many clamps Next is the gluing of the frames to the false keel, mast base and lower deck beams. The upper deck spacer helps keep thing in line

After finishing Vanguard's Grecian, started my latest build. This kit is a bit different as built on a slipway sort of like the original was done. . Instructions not up to snuff compared to Vanguarad but a video build instruction by occre is available on Youtube to help. My preference would have been Chris ' 1:64 kit he designed for Amati but it never went into final production but, if they ever do, I will also build it. Another recent kit Artesia Latina kit also availabe that has nice one side showing internal features but I had already gotten the Occre kit . So here we go. First the unboxing: A A 1:1 drawing shows the size of the finished product First step is setting up the false keel on the slipway Then the 32 frames are assembled. Each has 3 parts. Although Occre says you can leave the laser char I removed it to show the lovely oak Next dry fitted the first 6 ribs. The instructions and video suggest doing 6 section at a time. This if followed by add ding the cross beams for the first deck. The instructions tell you to glue the frame and beams in the fit lengthwise beams between. The video shows a better and stronger way, making dados so things click into place and adding stability. Spacers are provided. To avoid the drudgery of filing, I got this nifty minitable saw Measured out the spaces on one beam, aligned the 6 by their center line then cut the dados out. COntinued to dryfit, then added the fore/aft beams After 12 ribs, feels sturdy. Of noet, in Vaanguard's models these parts are laser cut for you and easily snap into place. You can see I was a bit wide on one longitudinal cut. Once all the first deck done then will disassemble and then glue up. Will be pretty strong. The plan calls for leaving the hull below the lower gundeck expose to show the construction but as it is an option, I will plank one side. This model is not painted, just varnished raw wood.

Thanks. Already the Occre numbering system is driving me crazy.

As I have been looking at it, a definite level of complexity especially as instructions not as nice as with Vanguard 's. There is a You-tube instruction video series that is interesting specially as departs somewhat from the enclosed instructions.

Alas the Occre Victory is not 1:64. I would have preferred Chris' 1:64 version but Amati never went forward with it.

Grecian now complete Next to my last project, Harpy. Same scale but much less beamy. In the background you can see Agamemnon, same scale 1:64 My next project will take some time

What you are seeing is the main boom topping lift. The is one on each side as per Chris' rigging instructions

Gaffes and boom done. All that is left are the lifts, braces, and sheets.

Forestays now completed

Backstays, bobstays done. A very long bowsprit

Thanks. Yes , if you tour the USS constitution in Boston harbour the inner bulwarks are green.

442 knots later, the ratlines are done. After finishing one side, as I do the other I insert a plank every 5 rows to make sure things are staying even. Also installed the halliards onto the yards. you can also see the upper rings used instead of deadeyes inserted into their holes.

Shrouds done. I tend to do the first on each side measuring the distance from bottom of the lower deadeye to top of the upper. Here 2 cm. Then I eyeball the rest based on the first one.

At the beach for a few days. Completed yards, blocks, steeped the masts and attached the yards. Although the plans do not explicitly call for footropes, the parts are on the etched sheets.

Completed fore and main masts. They are both canted sternward quite a bit . The tops require angling to keep them level . Fortunately when the hounds are placed correctly they give you the angle to trim.

The batten was on his current Harpy build

Yes . Blue Ensign used a batten which was apparently typical. I did the rope as easier to wrap and with real copper it is now always easy to get a perfect edge. I believe it was a 1 mm black rigging line.

Thanks all. To me the second planking adds strength and shape to the hull, allows for gluing without nail holes and smooth the shape . Also with Chris' models, the outer bulwark transitions smoothly into the second planking. You do not need to plank the outer bulwark. In other models the second planking, as it usually includes the outer bulwark strengthens it. ECK

Guns installed and ship's boat complete and mounted. Weekend will be starting the mast and bowsprit

Hull now complete save for the guns and anchors. I'll be spending the next week making those.

Well done, an excellent addition to the Indy fleet