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Richard Dunn

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Everything posted by Richard Dunn

  1. Richard Dunn
    I took a few close up photos of her in the 80's I will upload them for you, I have never used them
  2. Richard Dunn
    I quickly did this to illustrate the point. Teak at various stages except really old vs Anigre on right, you can see all the tones match up.
  3. Richard Dunn
    Dave_E I noticed you mention guitar making, I myself am a luthier to and use the figured boards for steel string and archtops, its very close to maple for carved backs. This is a piece I made years ago from a Super Yacht master bedroom and it is Anigre as well (veneer stained), showing this so you can see how versatile it is.
  4. Richard Dunn
    In regards to decking, if you can get Anigre which is an African Birch it is the closest timber to (worn) teak I have seen and has the qualities you need , fine grain, subtle variance in tone and sands/scrapes well. I have used it over the last 40 years in models and in furniture so have used it in a range of ways. It often has extensive figure which you want to avoid for models. It is available but hard to find. I purchased 6 x 2m lengths in 200 x 50mm planks a few years back just because it was there at the time. I suspect people reading this will go ,"I have never heard of this" but I can assure you all if you try it you will not go back, also its much cheaper than fruit wood. I am in Australia but pay $43.00per metre for 200 x 50mm quarter sawn. I will be using this and Cherry for 1/35 built up POF model I plan to start soon of Le Gros Ventre. I have to say that some of this timber also looks like Elm. Grain is close to American Cherry in nature and does not require pore filling as it's so fine Here you can see the subtle tonal changes and very teak like miniature grain. I found some in your neck of the woods. https://www.sierrafp.com/seattle/products/lumber/anigre/ http://www.edensaw.com/MainSite/Store1/StoreProducts/ProductDetail/6948 the back bottom is almost newish teak and the middle greyish one is a more bleached look, photos don't do it justice though Can also be pinkish My personal stash
  5. Richard Dunn
    The response from the builder in regard to painting, I painted the tug some 10 years ago and it was my first attempt at weathering any of my models! (I just winged it). From what I remember I used all humbrol enamel paints, the green was no2 gloss , I brushed this on fairly thick with a hap hazard fashion so as not to leave the brush strokes going one way or the other, I didn’t want a gloss deck so on went a coat of satin cote again in a hap hazard fashion. A couple of washes one in a very weak black and one in a rusty colour. I dry brushed the areas I thought would have more wear with a light grey or light green I can’t remember. I didn’t do anything really fancy but I guess it come out okay! This was in no337 of marine modelling international April 2015
  6. Richard Dunn
    Update to this, I have heard from the current owner and the builder of this model and been given the explanation as to how the decks were done so well. Once I get permission I will upload info.
  7. Richard Dunn
    More plates to prime and fit, showing the slots to locate the framing and bulwark stays for the structure.
  8. Richard Dunn
    If you are referring to the main, poop and fore deck yes the camber is a constant curve through its length, its also a parabolic curve not an arc but the difference is not worth mentioning, except I just did............... the deck is developed through the centreline at its apex and the deck at the shell is whatever it is.
  9. Richard Dunn
    Not sure if this is of use to you Kevin but its built from the actual plans for the boats, I got them from the guy who did them for the restoration. Needless to say, it's a 3d model
  10. Richard Dunn
    No I had not, but it can't happen, the plates are glued on with a liberal layer of marine grade (5 min) epoxy, and prior to that the plates are soaked in Everdure which impregnates the wood plasticising it. Aside from that only topsides are plated. The effect will be over whole hull but bottom sides will be totally done in he sealer. Once I have a section complete I will airbrush prime the plates one more time to check for sanding scratches and blemishes, and remedy all that before sanding with 320 and doing the weld beads
  11. Richard Dunn
    Thanks Keith, I hope my fittings and details are as good as yours. I finally can show the effect of the plating and seams....well sort of. It's a long job, made longer by the fact that the pressure switch on my compressor has died so have to wait a week before I can spray again. Hull plates, some glued, others temporarily taped. Weld seam, this will get widened when softened and rolled into groove. Deck panel glued down forming waterway, the 1mm thickness replicates the 1 1/2 Semprene deck. the mast base can be seen as well as the various vent holes. The 2mm holes in the waterways are the scupper positions. Plates on the Fan Room roof being glued, these have not been sanded for distortion yet..
  12. Richard Dunn
    The model belongs to Bournville Model Yacht and Power Boat Club, I have emailed them
  13. Richard Dunn
    I should add for future reference this is a decking called Semtek Semprene and it is a rubber paint applied over cork and is between 3/8 and 1-1/2 inch think, the shots above are from delivery voyage so not even that old, it faded very quickly.
  14. Richard Dunn
    I am thinking it could also be using the salt technique, certainly I think will use salt and spatter techniques as this shot of the deck of the Wahine shows. Salt? and spatter and on wreck Thoughts?. Also the "new" colour of the deck paint is the darker bluish green/teal paint around the base of the binnacle, I am unsure if that should be applied as base coat and fading built on top, or work in reverse and only apply the dark colour like a pin wash around the areas that fade less at the end. Keep in mind my decks are large, some are the same area as a sheet of A3 paper
  15. Richard Dunn
    Thanks Portsoy I suppose I should not be surprised it could be that since most weathering is done like that, what I think the key is is what has it been applied with as I don't think just brushing will give that effect, and it does not look like foam or sponge. This is one effect I have never seen any information on anywhere. Maybe it's just flooded on and left to pool and bead in it's own way using the surface tension as that would simulate the effect in my mind anyway.
  16. Richard Dunn
    I am getting close to having to paint my Wahine models deck and being 4.6m long I have a lot of it to do, I have a very specific look I need to the weathering. I have never seen a deck as well painted and weathered as this model, almost the same colour as what I need to, but the technique used here is clearly a very well thought out one. The rust is fairly standard procedure but the rest is just wow. Does anyone know who the builder of this is or how to get hold of them?. Maybe someone knows how this was achieved, the salt wash marbling in particular is superb. The actual video is here. 17minutes in.
  17. Richard Dunn
    Thanks guys. Too many quotes so will just answer in text, the disp weights were posted a while ago but this has both static ballast in lead as well as water, why? because it reduces the amount of stuff I have to carry to the lake. that's it pure and simple. I have no problem with baffles, I will probably just have 3 vertical longitudinal bulkheads with elongated holes cut in them, with the middle ones holes offset from sides so there is no direct line. glassed into the tank. Ballasting will not be a huge issue, I have a tank to test in in back yard. Well I have started the long process of gluing plates onto the model. I struggled to find a way of holding the side plates on the hull until today I discovered these massive rubber bands, The plates with windows are just taped in position for now with only one plate here being glued with epoxy, once done 2-3 can be done off it. The windowed plates here cannot be glued yet because the strake above it is a rivetted joint and behind the plates, there as a slot where the plates go down behind the plates in grey so they have to be glued first and of course the glass added before that. the recess can be seen at the extreme left of image next to grey plate. Superstructure plates glued on, the slots above it are to receive the deck above the promenade, also the vertical slots in the plates are to receive the deck beams for the deck. Below they can be seen in red, also the framing for the promenade can be seen and is ready to cut. note the very subtle distortion sanded into the primer, I think you can just make it out, the hull also has this to. A shot of the bow before final shaping.
  18. Richard Dunn
    I can confirm I am aware of its need but not worked out how yet, was going to get some advice on that actually
  19. Richard Dunn
    That's great, then you can all appreciate how well suited this is to cardboard modelling complex hull forms.
  20. Richard Dunn
    Just to bring these topics together I restored an R class racing dinghy back in the 80's that was a 2 man dingy, trapeze and all that fun stuff, and it was diagonal planked in kauri also, now days they are more like skiffs and no wood anywhere.
  21. Richard Dunn
    That's awesome Valeriy. It sounds like it's more common in modelling than I thought. I really think it's a way to go with card. I have tried to find that issue of Model Shipright, I never twigged it was your fathers model on same scale as mine.
  22. Richard Dunn
    I have been cutting .13mm styrene from evergreen all day at 17000 rpm with a 5mm per second feed speed, with no trouble at all, just have to stand there with compressed air blower to keep it clear and cool, will film it later. 1mm 2 flute cutter to. I showed it back a bit anyway, all those windows
  23. Richard Dunn
    Of course, I was referring to steel or fibreglass hulls. A lot of the wooden PT boats were done that way to. In saying that the process effectively builds you a plywood hull in 3d compound shapes and you could do a planked ship this way if you made the last layer traditional over the top, so may kits do sublayers of planking and it is seldom fair or even pleasing to the eye but merely a substrate for the top layer, at least this gives you fair shapes by its very nature of using sprung planks. the boat in the image above has bad frames to start with ,you can see a bad hump in its port bow. If you wanted to build wooden ship model with cardboard this is how I would do it. Also its very very fast and if you had a micro nailing gun that could shoot tiny staples or brads you could knock that over it 2-3 days.
  24. Richard Dunn
    No way I could cut these windows all the same with scalpel.... I need glasses as it is. That technique above is also known as cold moulding.
  25. Richard Dunn
    I am very very surprised this is not used more, all it requires is fames to be setup with planking reduction AND ribband reductions, and a lot of ribbands put on, maybe 20 per side on an average ship and then lots of strips glued on at 45 degrees and then the other way, 3 layers is usually bloody strong and with glass or resin impregnation very thin strong shell can be built. I might in fact do it on my next model if it's small.............well small compared to this one. I have seen it used a lot on hard Chine hulls but less on displacement hulls in the model world and its better suited to Displacement hull as you don't have the chine seam. This is the normal technique for building plugs for GRP hulls btw in full size.

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