Thukydides
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HMS Perseus by Thukydides - 1:64 - POB - Sphinx Class 6th Rate
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HMS Perseus by Thukydides - 1:64 - POB - Sphinx Class 6th Rate
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Lancha Chilota by JacquesCousteau – Scale 1:32 – Chilean Coasting Sloop
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Thukydides reacted to a post in a topic:
Lancha Chilota by JacquesCousteau – Scale 1:32 – Chilean Coasting Sloop
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Thukydides reacted to a post in a topic:
Lancha Chilota by JacquesCousteau – Scale 1:32 – Chilean Coasting Sloop
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HMS Perseus by Thukydides - 1:64 - POB - Sphinx Class 6th Rate
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HMS Perseus by Thukydides - 1:64 - POB - Sphinx Class 6th Rate
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Another minor update as I actually have some progress to report (or at least in this case a relatively successful test). On the scroll saw front I am getting more comfortable, and about half the time I get my cuts right on the line, but then all of a suddent I find myself wandering. In particular, certain types of curves I always seem to wander first to one side and then the other. I have assembled my first completed iteration of the knee of the head and painted it. I discovered that to some degree firm clamping as you are assembling can mitigate some of my failures on the cutting of the joints. Also as a proof of concept my attempt to try and show the joints through black seems to have worked. I am not entirely happy with the effect, but for a first go I am pretty pleased. I mixed the glue used in the joints with white ink so that when I painted over with thin layers of black, the lighter colour shon through. The effect I am aiming for is more the upper joints (the thin harder to see ones) than the lower joints, but that will be fixed by making sure my joints are tighter. Note I did not bother with the cutwater and the waterline is only the approximate location. This was just a proof of concept test. Now to see if I can do another one, this time with tighter joints.
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HMS Bellerophon 1786 by AON – scale 1:64 – 74-gun 3rd Rate Man of War - Arrogant-Class
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Le Chebec by Yvesvidal - CAF Model - 1/48
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HMS Perseus by Thukydides - 1:64 - POB - Sphinx Class 6th Rate
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USS Constitution by Glen McGuire - BlueJacket Bicentennial Edition - 1/96 - Repair and Complete Construction
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Lancha Chilota by JacquesCousteau – Scale 1:32 – Chilean Coasting Sloop
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If you look back through my log posts I have 2 log posts dedicated to the topic of my research on the knee of the head. Go back to the first post and there is a table of contents.
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Time for a minor update as it has been quite a while since I last posted on Perseus. Work has been busy so modelling time has been limited and I have been lately distracted by another project. Despite this, work has continued in the background. However I have very little to show for it as the work has mostly focused on practicing future cuts on scrap wood. I have been using the more warped pieces of plywood I have (not suitable for the main build) as tests to practice cutting out the bulkheads on the scroll saw. I have also been cutting out test keel pieces from basswood I got at my local hardware store. While this has been going on I have also been experimenting with trying to cut tight joints for knee of the head. My second test version is much better than my first, but I am still having trouble getting all the joints really tight. Any suggestions anyone has would be much appreciated. I plan to keep practicing with the basswood until I am happy with my results and then I will shift over to attempting the final version with my pearwood.
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Log #8: Vigilant Class Brigs - Masts I have begun work on two French Vigilant class brigs. The hulls are again from Turner Miniatures. To make the masts, I used the ratios from Lees. The lower masts need to be adjusted a bit to account for the fact that they will not extend below the waterline. You can see my calculations for the dimensions at scale below: As far as thicknesses go, some accommodations need to be made for the difficulties of working at this scale. The main requirement is that masts and yards need to look distinct even if the exact proportions are not perfect. I tried a number of different materials for the fighting tops, but in the end found that card was the easiest and once it was covered in super glue it was durable. Paper was again used to simulate the caps for the masts. I have attached the upper shrouds, but the lower ones will have to wait until painting is done. And here you can see the models with the masts temporarily put in place. Next up I need to start work on the yards.
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With brass I have found you need to: Make sure you get all the chemicals from the etching process off of it by cleaning well with acetone rough up the surface a bit to improve adhesion Use a primer (ideally sprayed) Once the painting is done seal it with some sort of varnish If you do all of those things then it seems to turn out relatively durable. Many of the same steps need to be done to stop the blackening from coming off if you go that route. But all of that is a real pain. What I have discovered is in many cases if what you are doing is purely decorative then you can get away with using paper which is painted and sealed with varnish. So eyebolts and the like I used blackening, but any metal banding (such as on the anchors) I just used paper. I also like the rudder with the piece on the end of it :). Looking good.
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Great job. That is a major milestone.
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The 1.5 and 1 inch dimensions are circumferences. Now that is for the swan class sloops. I took a quick look at the steel tables for 20 gun ships and they say pretty much the same, 1.5 in for the main and for mast lower ratlings and 1 in for the topmast shrouds and for the mizzen. This works out to 0.18mm and 0.13mm diameter respectively at 1/64. Edit: Nvmd on the explanation, I just realized I misread your comment. Yes likely a typo. In my head I just read the 0.01mm as 0.1mm. In terms of the colour there is historical precedent for the ratlins being tared and also for them to use natural rope. It depended on the preference of the commander. Personally I prefer the dark look in which case you would just use the same colour as you used for the shrouds. However, it is up to you.
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As long as you get reasonably close you can then paint over the decal to get the exact right shade. You don't need to get right up to the edge as the colour will mostly read as your painted colour.
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Great job
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I really appreciate these tool posts. Gives me so many ideas about how to better do rigging. Looking forward to watching you get through the final stretch.
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Ultimately the paint colour is really up to you, what do you think captures the look you are going for. If you want to make it look more correct to scale you need to use lighter colours than would have been historically used as at scale everything looks lighter. So a dark grey instead of a black and a paler yellow. Part of your problem with the paint is the colour and part will be the dark undertone of the wood. I would suggest building up in thin layers. Start with yellow ocre as you have done. Then move to a medium yellow such as VMC medium yellow. Finally highlight with a light yellow such as VMC light yellow. You can look around to find colours you like better if you want. The key here is to keep the layers very thin. You can build them up until you get the colour you want. Yellow is a very transparent colour and so much of the previous layers can be seen through. If you are trying to colour match the painting you may need to experiment with adding in a cream colour to get the right consistency such as VMC ivory. The key is lots of thin layers. To check your paint is thin enough you can paint a little on the side of your palm. You should be able to still see the palm lines through the paint.
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Log #7: Cutter - Final Pictures Unfortunately since the last update I noticed a problem with one of the cutters I was working on. You may have spotted it in the photo, but the mast is too high on the brown cutter. I didn’t realize this until the rigging was pretty much complete so I decided to scrap it (in reality I am planning on putting it aside and maybe turning it into a wreck or something like that. For the yellow cutter I wanted to try and depict it with a different rig than I had done for the Alert look alike. I was inspired by this image from the NMM: I thought it would be cool to have the ship tacking and so I took a stab at replicating this image. The sails were constructed in much the same manner as before. The most significant change from the last time was that I waited until last to attach the shrouds and didn’t varnish until everything but the water was done. I decided to go with an early French revolutionary flag for the ensign. The final pictures of both cutters together (the french one in the foreground and Alert in the background) are below:
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Time for a minor update. I have made a fair bit of progress on the next two cutters. They are moving along much faster since I know what I am doing now. I modified the order of operations a bit based on lessons learned the first time round. The bowsprit shrouds, fore stay and running backstays are in place as well as the crew and anchors. The brown one will be a French cutter and the yellow one another British one.
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Those overhead shots look so cool. It really gives you an appreciation for how many ropes are running in every direction.
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