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Jared

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Everything posted by Jared

  1. Jared
    I am going to have a 5 sided acrylic case made at a local shop. I will make a wooden base for it myself. There are several acrylic laces in the greater Toronto area that can do this. A fellow modeller has recommended two. He thinks yhe cost for the size I need will be under $250 Cdn. For my last ship (Charles Morgan Whaler) I built my own case out of glass and oak. It weighs a ton. I won't make that mistake again.
  2. Jared
    Your Cutty Sark is looking great. You will enjoy rigging the braces! I have had the pleasure of touring and photographing the Cutty Sark in Greenwich and am planning to do so again next month.
  3. Jared
    No bunt line, no clew lines. Enough. Installed the brace today on the lower yard on Foremast. Only 4 braces to go. Then the only rigging left will be the flag halliards and ropes on the davits for the ships boats. I also have to mount coils on many of the belay pins. I will be having an acrylic case made for it very soon.
  4. Jared
    With the repairs behind me its full speed ahead. All braces on the main and mizzen masts are complete. These add a whole new layer of complexity and beauty to the model. After working with all the tight and very challenging on the inner rigging, the far more easily accessibke braces were a real joy. I will now work on the foremast yard braces, and leave the mounting of the ship's boats to the end of the build.
  5. Jared
    The removed rigging on the repaired top foremast has now all been replaced.
  6. Jared
    A build log would be of limited value if it only showed the forward achievements and none of the worts that occurred during the build. About a month ago I had a bit of an accidental disaster that I did not mention. Photo 1 shows a floor lamp I use to light my work area. Its a great lamp except for the fact it is top heavy and poorly balanced. Well the inevidable happened last month. It toppled over and grazed some of the foremast and bowsprit rigging on the model, pulling out a few of the securing eye bolts holding lines. As these were easy enough to repair, I chose not to comment about it. I fixed the lamp problem by adding two 3-pound weight to the based. And so I thought thatvwas the end of it. BUT NOT SO 😪. Early last week I noticed that the thin diameter top section of my foremast was leaning, and on further inspection realized that in fact the cause break was a complete. I was at wits end what to do about it. Fortunately a fellow member of model boat club I belong to (Model Shipwright's of Niagara, MSON) is a master builder and restorer of model ships (Ray Peacock). He was able to save the mast by drilling holes in the adjacent broken ends and epoxy gluingvthem back together with a brass pin inserted in the drilled holes like a dowel (see last photo). Thanks Rayvfor saving the day! I have to reinstall 3 stays then the repair will be completely done. The moral of this story is that sh!# happens in models build's but things are often repairable. Thanks for reading.
  7. Jared
    I wish you the best with your new job and adventures ahead Geirge.
  8. Jared
    Sorry to hear about your painful problem. Best wishes.
  9. Jared
    As a diversion from the endless rigging I decided to install the boat davits and complete the insides of the 2 ship's boats which will hand from them. I used the kit's Brittania cast boats which I had previously painted. I then used a crimping tool to curve the wood strip boat ribs, gluing them in place. The wooded floor boards were then glued in place, and then the sests. For the oars I carve a small notch into some small length wood strips then glued the oar handles (narrow diameter incence sticjs) into the notches. The paddels were sanded to shape, painted, then glued and tied into the 2 boats. The unpainted wood parts were coated with tung oil as finish.
  10. Jared
    Beautiful well made model. Congrats
  11. Jared
    Over the last week I have been rigging the braces for the yards on the mizzen mask. They went pretty well and are now completed.
  12. Jared
    Welcome back Rob. Lovely work for sure.
  13. Jared
    Thanks Rich. It is quite magical how it all slowly comes together. These ships, which are a marvel of engineering and human ingenuity, are certainly one of man's most beautifully made creations. To stand on a deck of any tall ship like the Cutty Sark is an incredibly inspiring and humbling experience.
  14. Jared
    Completed rigging of the mizzen and main topgalant staysail halliards and the handropes above the bowsprit. Items 1 & 4 off the list. I will rig the yard braces next.
  15. Jared
    Thanks Rich.
  16. Jared
    The rigging of the flying jib halliard, outer jib halliard, jib halliard and fore topmast stunsl halliard have now been completed. I can see light at the end of the tunnel! I also tightened up the associated standing rigging, replacing one of the lines. Updated Punch List of Outstanding Tasks for Completion of my Flying Fish. Rig the following 2 halliards: Mizen Staysail Halliard, Mn Topgal Staysl Halliard. Rig all yard braces Rig the flag halliards and install the flags. Add the Bowsprit manropes (horses) p/s Complete the insides of 2 ships boats & mount on the supplied davits. Add a few rope coils to the deck Make 3D printed scale figures (crew & officers) (WIP) Final touch up painting and cleaning of the model. Fabricate a case and plaque Celebrate the model's completion with a few well deserved shots of a good single malt scotch!
  17. Jared
    Thanks to all of you for your valuable insights on the stunsls. I would be very interested to know why the kit designer chose to show the stunsls the way they did, as, if I understand all the discussion correctly, the stunsls would have only been raised in this manner for a short period while the sails were being furled. My model will not have any sails furled or otherwise. As my stunsls are now set in place I am not really up to the task of removing them. I do like the look the way they are now as it adds complexity and colour contrast to the upper part of the model. I also think it adds strength to the fragile yards on the model.
  18. Jared
    Over the last day I lashed the stunsls to the chain slings then rigged the 6" anchor fish tackle on the model (please see photo below):
  19. Jared
    It looks pretty fine to me!
  20. Jared
    One thing I noticed when I installed the stuns'ls on my model is that it gave the model a huge step upwards in the visual appeal and perceived complexity of the model. The "bright" natural colour of the wood provided a nice balance against the black yards, making the latter stad out more. I was quite pleasantly shocked. On tip I forgot to mention was that I used narrow diameter wood dowels from incence sticks to make the smallest diameter stuns'ls, which worked out rather nicely and saved me hours of sanding down wood dowels.
  21. Jared
    Thanks Rob. It would be nice to see the actual much higher resolution photo.
  22. Jared
    Thanks Rich. Thanks for improving the photos. My model will be in dry dock for a long time so this works 😀 but I do agree this would not have been the way it would have been most times
  23. Jared
    You bring up a good point that I do not know the answer too. I have gone through several clipper books I have and can only find 2 examples of the stuns'ls stored in the angular position. One is a drawing on page 7 of the China Tea Clippers by George F. CAMPBELL and the other is a photo of the Great Republic in 1860 (page 71 in Clipper Ships by David R. MacGregor. In most photos I have seen where stuns'ls are present they were lashed to the spar and/or slung beneath the yard. The photo of the Great Republic shows the lower yard stuns'ls slung below the yard while those on the higher yards look like they were lashed the way the Flying Fish plans show.
  24. Jared
    Today went very well. I made the 6 stunsl yards and glued into place on the fore and main masts. Tomorrow I will add the securing ropes to tie them to the slings.
  25. Jared
    Fixed the angle of the foremast gaff.

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