Jared
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Everything posted by Jared
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Wondeful fine work.
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Sorry for my 2 month absence. After completing the standing rigging I needed a brief mental rest and time to think about how I would complete the fragile yards with their fittings and tackle the running rigging. This week I built the mizzen topsail, topgallant, royal and skysail yards. They have not yet been permanently attached. Making and soldering together the small trusses on the topgallant and topsail yards was very challenging. Fortunately the yards are painted black, which does a great job of hiding less than stellar workmanship 😬. I have been following the earlier advice to apply super glue into all drilled holes to try to strengthen the spars at these weak points. For these 2 yards I am using straight pins to help secure them to the masts. The last images are of the unpainted and painted mizzen royal yard and the unpainted skysail yard. On all of these yards except the mizzen skysail, I intentionally left a small gap between the vertical and horizontal pairs of eyebolts at the outer ends to reduce the risk of breakage from drolling at this fragile area. Because skysail yard is just to frail, I will omit the eyebolts altogether and simply tie the running rigging to the yard ends.
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Sorry you had to spend so many hours interviewing and all for nought. Their loss!
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Such beautiful craftsmanship. Well done!
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Thanks Rob for this great tip.
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I am well fixed with all the small tools for rigging. Thanks. Having fragile spars being evenly supported is a must when fitting them with eye bolts and the like. More importantly knowing where both hands are at all times in relation to the pertruding mounted spars is key.
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Get a KOTTO Third Hand Soldering Tool. 4 great hands that I find very helpful.. On Amazon.
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Let me clarify. Drilling itself has not been the problem. I am using tiny diameter drill bits about the diameter of a pin. Most of the holes are drilled on a dremel drill press where the spares are supported. The breaks are happening at the ends of the thinnest masts during subsequent handling of the spars or, mire often from accidently hitting a fragile mounted spar with a hand when rigging. I think I need a few more eyes 🧐.
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Its hard to say if the new wood is really any stronger. Where the snapping occurs is on thin spars where a minute hole was drilled. It just takes an accidental light knock to snap them. Having limited vision in one eye makes things more accident prone. I am about to pick up again on my model. All of the smallest diameter spars are waiting my "magic touch".
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It was me. Accidental snapping of the thin spars on my 1:96 scale FF has been a problem. I need to be aware where my hands are at all times!
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This article was a terrific read! It brings alive just how daring sailing these ships were. My FF model is quite like the Staffordshire - the masts keep snapping 🤔. The other thing I found fascinating was how quickly the Stag Hound was built.
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I followed sheet 3. It states the line sizes in the plans are the curcumference measurement. The table then converts it to scale dia. size. The kit did not provide black thread for the 10.5" shrouds (scale dia. 0.035) so I bought some. I measured the diameters of all of my rigging lines with a micrometer scale under a microscope.
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I will begin by wishing you all a very happy New Year. My celebration begins today as I rejoice the completion of the standing rigging on my Flying Fish. A number of photos are attached. Now the real fun begins! I am not expecting any of the remaining modelling. work to be easy 😬. Best wishes to you all for 2025. Thanks for looking in.
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Nice modellIng. Congrats on your retirement!
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Gaff & Spanker boom mounted and rigged. Quite delicate work. It was made much easier by not having the mizzen backstays and shrouds in the way.
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Time for some holiday season fun. My nephew who lives in Singapore gifted me a laser cut wood "sailing ship puzzle" when he visited last year. Needing a break from rigging my FF, I had a go at it this week. I was quite amazed by the very high quality and precision of the laser cut pieces (photo 1). It was actually quite a fun build! While it bears only minor resemblance to a real tall ship, I would highly recommend it to anyone who wants to interest a child in getting into our hobby. Seasons Greetings!
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Nice progress George. Bon voyage!
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A day of celebration! Finally finished rigging the last of the shrouds and ratlines. Phew!!
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Over the last 3 days I complete construction of the spanker boom including mounting it on the ship and rigging it. As you can see from the photos below, the rigging was fairly complex, consisting of topping lifts, lift falls, spanker boom sheets and footropes. Each of these were rigged on the port and stbd. sides.
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It is a weak spot. It is where the tip on my Flying Fish jibboom also broke. While there are other sheave holes on the FF spars, on the advice of another modeller I now apply a coat of superglue around all drill sites before drilling. I am also using a stronger wood (maple/birch) as my spar material. I also intend to house the completed FF in a case to protect it and keep it clean.
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I decided to see if I could apply my newly discovered skills to repair my first plank on frame build, the Artesania Latina 1805 Virginia Pilot boat Swift. The top mast was accidently snapped of several years ago and seemed to defy glue repairs (photo 1). I determined that the problem was the running rigging at the top of the mainmast was too tight. I decided today to see if I could try to undo one end of the line and try the repairs again. I had to use a combination of hot water, acetone and laquer thinner treatments to eventually loosen and release the line attached to a deck cleat. I then repaired the upper mast with epoxy glue and retied the running rigging line after the epoxy on the mast cured. I secured the new knot with white glue. The repaired model is shown in photos 2-4). Now I am back at my Flying Fish.
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The one thing troubling me the most about my model has been the loose lift lines on the main lower mast (see items 293 & 208 of this build). With my frequent accidental encounters with the mast as I continued with the rigging, the problem got much worse with the upper lines of the lift sagging terribly (photo 1). Through some luck and thought I have been able to fix this. As to the luck, yesterday the cap of my superglue was so plugged up with solidified glue and would no longer fit, causing the nozzle to plug. It defied removal by physical means so I turned to the internet and discovered acetone would dissolve hardened superglue. Sure enough this did the trick and my glue is good again. So what has this to do with my sagging main lower yard lifts? The rigging lines at the end of my lower mast were glued with a superglue. Carefully applying small amounts of acetone to the rope allowed me to open the knots and then retighten the rigging (photos 2 &-4).
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The standing rigging on the mainmast has now been completed. A lot of slow careful and sometimes very difficult work. I am holding off securing the Mn Royal and Mn Sky backstays for now, to leave more room under and behind the main mast to make later rigging of the mizzen stays easier. Thanks for looking.
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