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Step G was primarily concerned with the installation of the ships keel, stem, and rudder as shown on the instruction sheet below.

 
    Billet 13, shown below, contained the majority of the parts involved with this step.

 
    The slots on the bottom of the planking sheets were somewhat unique, as shown below, in that they were made to accept both the long double ply tabs of the false keel and two separate shorter ply tabs of the actual keel that in effect made the keel itself a total of four card ply's thick.

 
     I started with the center keel (part #198) which had one end wider than the other where it would join with the stem and a hole to punch out where the ship would seat on the display stand. It also had a pair of bending seams that ran parallel to each other down its center for the length of the part. You can probably make out those seams in the photo of the billet above.
     This effectively allowed the sides of the part to be spaced enough to accommodate the double thickness of the false keel tabs that were already projecting through the planking sheet, but it also resulted in a somewhat rounded over edge to the keel.
   The aft portion of the keel (part #197) was somewhat similar in that it had the parallel bending seams and a hole to join to the display stand, but it had two additional slots for the two ply rudder (part #206) which needed to be sandwiched inside of it.
    After joining those three parts to the ship, it was on to the stem portion of the keel (part #208). This piece was quite intricate, so extra care was needed to get it separated from its billet without deforming the skeleton figurehead. This part was also similar to the previous keel parts, except for the fact that the parallel seam didn’t run the full length of the part, leaving space inside of it for (part #204) which was the remaining part of the stem as shown below.

 

 
    Once the completed stem was installed on the ship, the arms, legs and chest were installed per the included subset illustration. Since the skeleton was in such an exposed position and was so fragile, I reinforced all of his joints with a dab of glue. So here he is now, installed at the bow in all his glory leading the way forward.

 
    There were also ten steps for the entry ladder to be added next, followed by four window shutters for the rear cabins. It seemed to me that the ladder and the name plate should have been on the same side of the ship, but the stand can easily be reversed since it wasn’t glued together.
    Step H, as shown on the instructions below, was tackled next which included four more unlabeled subsets for the upper and lower quarter galleries.

 
    I started with the starboard upper gallery part #243, which was actually a combination of the railing and deck. Once again careful removal of the part from its’ billet was essential, but the kit parts were all very precisely cut.
    One tape backed trim piece (#T2) needed to be attached to the bottom-side of the deck and another tape backed trim piece (#T3) to be attached below that. However, there was no description of how it needed to be aligned and once attached it would be very hard to realign.
Looking closely at these three parts below, you can see that apparently there’s a pattern printed on their faces showing deck beams.

 
    So I lined up the patterns and the two straight edges which left a somewhat smooth curved transition, which I assume was the intention.

 
    The deck now had to be folded under and the front side of the lower railing bent into a curve to match the deck. The roof of the gallery consisted of two parts: a hard surface and a canopy. The hard roof (part #39) was actually a channel for the Mizzen shrouds and its installation was very straightforward. Once the gallery deck tabs and the channel tabs were aligned with their corresponding slots, the assembly was installed. The canopy (part #254) on the other hand, was a bit trickier.
     This was the first introduction to the printed paper parts. The pointed poles were to protrude through the punched holes in the canopy and a crease was required to bend the lower apron over the beam. The two tabs on the top edge needed a bit of the double sided tape provided with the kit. These tabs were attached to the sides of the rear castle walls where they would be concealed below the gilded rail facing part #T6. This required forming a slight belly in it to to allow the top edge to follow the lower edge of the railing trim.
    After the completion of the upper starboard side gallery, I repeated the procedure for the port side gallery. So now it was time to move on to the wrap-around lower gallery. This was a very awkward installation, as it was all formed from one part (#193) with numerous complex bends, folds, and tabs to align all at the same time. I over-bent (beyond 90o) all of the required bends ahead of time to make it more flexible. But, if I had to do it over again, I would have glued the tabs in place as I went around, or if I had an extra hand or two, but then you know what they say about ifs, ands, or buts….😁
    As it was, I inserted the tab in the end of the railing first and then two of the side deck tabs before manhandling the four rear deck tabs which arched to follow the arch of the bottom of the railing. Now, while still holding all of that in place, I set the side deck tabs and the final tab at the end of the railing. I think the hardest part was trying to insert the tabs where they went around the corners. 
    The final part of this step was to install the 23 deck support angle brackets.
    Keeping the arched rear deck aligned with the bottom edge of the railing was one thing that I was never really happy with, but it was over and done with so I just let it go since there was really no way to clamp it and using CA wasn’t possible either.
    Here are a few photos from step H.

 

 

 
    At this point, I still hadn't noticed my error with the transom, but more on that later.  To be continued.

So now that the supporting framework was completed, it was time to plank the hull. Not being accustomed to building a plank on bulkhead model before, it was at this point that I realized that, although this ship was simply a ribbed construction of card, it was a very solid structure and it was already easily recognizable as an actual ship.
    While the method being used here is not your typical planking technique employed on wood or even card models, it was definitely quicker. Here is the instruction sheet below for step F.

 
    I began oddly enough, by installing the ships counter part #195 despite all the other parts being numbered in the 40’s and 50’s. I’m assuming this was due to the fact that there just wasn’t enough room left on the number 5 or 6 billets with the rest of the planking parts so they stuck it on billet 13 where there was.
    Then all of the gun port lids were inserted from the insides of planking parts 46 and 53, since it obviously would have been a bit difficult to do so after the planking sheets were in place. The the two projecting keel tabs on the aft portion of the ship were stuck through the corresponding slots of planking sheet number 46 as shown below, while I contemplated exactly how to handle the ship while lining up the four slots with the four tabs on opposite sides of the poop deck and the two on the deck below at the same time without knocking the two stairs off.

 
    Having successfully installed that part without any mishap, I easily attached the two bow sections followed by the remaining central section as shown below, with my supervisor looking on.

 

 

 
This completed step F.
 
 

That was yesterday  today I took it out of the box went to work.
Not sure if I got the scale is  right, can't find it on the box. 
 After the deck go's on  it was the sails.10 minutes and the first two mast had sails on. Then I added all the sails. Moving along to the side balconies  then the rear of the ship. Then all the lanterns and I found these little  Birch  Bark cut off I had laying around A couple coats of shellac  done. 
 It was quick , easy and fun. Not going to put it in the gallery  though  lol.
 But I am going to give this one to my daughter in-law for her birthday.  And the Viking Iron star to my oldest son , which will have a different base.
  Ok this one is Finish  lol on to the next  🤣 😂 
 
 

Main hatch coaming completed. As I mentioned before, only the starboard side has been covered with gratings.

I had the opportunity to take part in a European championship a few years ago with my 'Amarante' and, frankly, I realised that these types of competitions, at least in Europe, are completely distorted by rampant hypocrisy, inept judges who don't even know the basics of naval architecture, and verdicts already written before they even begin! By now, the most important federations (French, Belgian, German) snub these competitions while they are very committed to non-competitive events (such as the next international meeting to be held in Evian), leaving the competitions to the Eastern European countries whose participants for the most part are professional modellers who profit from their works, which are perfect because they are for the most part made in 3D technique and CNC machines, against which even the best manual artist cannot compete!
Therefore, at least until this stagnant situation can be changed, my Pegasus will not take medals! 🙂
 
Translated with DeepL.com (free version)

That's one down, only fifteen more to go? 

more....

We've all been there Johann! At least, hopefully, you can reuse all the fittings you've made. I'll wager these took a lot longer than fabricating the yard.

Continuation: Equipment of the Cross Bramrah – Vergue de perruche
A moment of inattention results in the following:

 At the broken point the mizzen topgallant yard is just 1.9 mm in diameter. Annoying, but gluing is not an option.
Sequel follows …

Since precise work is required, I can fabricate only one grating a day, in addition, I can make and assemble a deck beam and attached knees.

Thank you Jon. I have not fully planned everything I will do from the beginning to the end of the buid. I am deciding according to the development. I will cover only one side of the hatch coaming, just like you said. I want the gun deck to be as much visible as possible, Spar deck planking will also be very minimal.

Hatch coaming was glued and painted.

The swivel gun mounts:
 







 

Finished up the ratlines, there's plenty of mistakes but I feel like by the end I got the hang of the process and I am happy with my results for my first go around. 
 

 
Before I continued any further I wanted to complete a few tasks on the ships boats before it gets closed up by the rigging and got too hard to work with.  Inside the top boat I added some oars, boat hooks, anchors and some coiled ropes.  I got the oars from Vanguard models, and boy are they small and fragile, VERY hard to work with and I broke probably half of the larger ones while trying to shape them to be less square.  

 
I am now working on the backstays, these are the last task of the standard rigging.  After the backstays I will start on the yards and then start on the running rigging. 
 

Dave, that is a great point.  I have thought about it, and my initial thought was to greatly simplify the collar and do the canvas cover.  Then I thought that fiddling with trying to make a cover, and realistically fastening it would be difficult.  However, I didn't research to find out what it needs to look like and how others may have done it.  Now I feel like doing some searching on this!   I have no concerns that any work will have been wasted (after all, on one will ever see the stove!)  At this point my options remain open.
 
Ron

John and Dan, I enjoyed meeting and talking with you both.  Always nice to get to know someone beyond their profile photo and user name!
 
Mast collars:  I started by cutting a bunch of pieces with a 45 degree angle and gluing them together.   If I really wanted to get it right, I should have cut 22 1/2 degrees off each side of a piece, to have the wood grain radial.   I was satisfied with just showing that the collar is made of eight simulated "wedges"--

  
 
These were then sanded roughly round--

 
Next I drilled out the center, glued in a short piece of dowel, and turned the piece round.   After it was round, I drilled the dowel out--

 
Here you can see I've started roughing out the opening of the first one to fit the fore mast, and other has the dowel glued in--

 
I used my lathe, but lacking that I could have chucked the piece in a standard drill--


 
One difficulty was shaping the cut out to accommodate the rather sharp rake of the masts, especially the mainmast.   In addition, my shaping of the masts was not perfect, with some variation in the eight sides.   That and the rake made it so the collar will only fit on one way (hence the label "F"(forward) on each collar.   Each one broke apart at least once as I was chiseling it out.  That ended up being a good thing, as the joints became a little more pronounced after regluing.  One down, one to go--

 
Here are some photos of the masts with the collars dry fit on deck--




 
I believe that is now a wrap for the hull and deck.  I am not going to redo the gratings--the holes are only a tiny bit too large.  They should be no bigger than 2 3/4", and they are 3".   So with that, it's time to start making rope for the standing rigging.
 
All for now.
 
Ron

After going through all of that Ron, I'm assuming that you won't be covering your woodwork up with a canvas mast collar coat.

So now that the supporting framework was completed, it was time to plank the hull. Not being accustomed to building a plank on bulkhead model before, it was at this point that I realized that, although this ship was simply a ribbed construction of card, it was a very solid structure and it was already easily recognizable as an actual ship.
    While the method being used here is not your typical planking technique employed on wood or even card models, it was definitely quicker. Here is the instruction sheet below for step F.

 
    I began oddly enough, by installing the ships counter part #195 despite all the other parts being numbered in the 40’s and 50’s. I’m assuming this was due to the fact that there just wasn’t enough room left on the number 5 or 6 billets with the rest of the planking parts so they stuck it on billet 13 where there was.
    Then all of the gun port lids were inserted from the insides of planking parts 46 and 53, since it obviously would have been a bit difficult to do so after the planking sheets were in place. The the two projecting keel tabs on the aft portion of the ship were stuck through the corresponding slots of planking sheet number 46 as shown below, while I contemplated exactly how to handle the ship while lining up the four slots with the four tabs on opposite sides of the poop deck and the two on the deck below at the same time without knocking the two stairs off.

 
    Having successfully installed that part without any mishap, I easily attached the two bow sections followed by the remaining central section as shown below, with my supervisor looking on.

 

 

 
This completed step F.
 
 

In general I have completed work on the small boat. On the drawing it comes without metal fastenings for the mast, after some thought I decided to do it as on the drawing. What is left to do is to cover it with oil, make two slipways and install it inside the  longboat.

Some more pictures. 

I started installing the grates. I will only put the grates on the starboard side of the hatch coaming so viewers can see the gun deck details.

Step E began with an unnamed subset that showed part #52 that first needed the top portion folded over, leaving the number printed on the hidden backside. The top portion was bent over and formed into a curved roof top with two tabs stuck through it that would then project into the gilded trim part #T19. Part #T24 is then added to cover T19 and complete the trim subset as shown below.

    Continuation of the illustration of step E as shown here.

    The Mylar part #T4040, representing the stain glass in the transom, needed four strips of the double faced tape applied to its edges. Once again, the alignment was critical in its placement on transom part #116 so as not to cover up the slot openings.
Next, all of the gilded trim pieces T11 through T23 and the unnamed subset were added to the transom. This was followed with another unnamed subset of the forecastle below which included the deck, railing, two ladders and another fife rail that is stuck through the deck from below. The step was concluded with the application of the top cross bars of the deck gratings on decks.
Here is the ship at this point.

 

 
    At this point in the construction I still hadn’t noticed that I had installed the first subset and the gilded transom trim on the WRONG side of the transom! More on that later.

Step E began with an unnamed subset that showed part #52 that first needed the top portion folded over, leaving the number printed on the hidden backside. The top portion was bent over and formed into a curved roof top with two tabs stuck through it that would then project into the gilded trim part #T19. Part #T24 is then added to cover T19 and complete the trim subset as shown below.

    Continuation of the illustration of step E as shown here.

    The Mylar part #T4040, representing the stain glass in the transom, needed four strips of the double faced tape applied to its edges. Once again, the alignment was critical in its placement on transom part #116 so as not to cover up the slot openings.
Next, all of the gilded trim pieces T11 through T23 and the unnamed subset were added to the transom. This was followed with another unnamed subset of the forecastle below which included the deck, railing, two ladders and another fife rail that is stuck through the deck from below. The step was concluded with the application of the top cross bars of the deck gratings on decks.
Here is the ship at this point.

 

 
    At this point in the construction I still hadn’t noticed that I had installed the first subset and the gilded transom trim on the WRONG side of the transom! More on that later.

Step E began with an unnamed subset that showed part #52 that first needed the top portion folded over, leaving the number printed on the hidden backside. The top portion was bent over and formed into a curved roof top with two tabs stuck through it that would then project into the gilded trim part #T19. Part #T24 is then added to cover T19 and complete the trim subset as shown below.

    Continuation of the illustration of step E as shown here.

    The Mylar part #T4040, representing the stain glass in the transom, needed four strips of the double faced tape applied to its edges. Once again, the alignment was critical in its placement on transom part #116 so as not to cover up the slot openings.
Next, all of the gilded trim pieces T11 through T23 and the unnamed subset were added to the transom. This was followed with another unnamed subset of the forecastle below which included the deck, railing, two ladders and another fife rail that is stuck through the deck from below. The step was concluded with the application of the top cross bars of the deck gratings on decks.
Here is the ship at this point.

 

 
    At this point in the construction I still hadn’t noticed that I had installed the first subset and the gilded transom trim on the WRONG side of the transom! More on that later.

The actual assembly guide started simply enough with step A for the support stand. The part numbering system however, didn’t seem to follow any particular order. Step A, as shown below, started with part number 240 joined to part number 17 which was from an entirely different billet. So I had to do a lot of searching for the correct parts for each step.
    At least the instructions were well illustrated with contrasting colors showing the parts involved in each step, and the finished assembly shown in white. They included exploded views of subset steps like A1 shown above.
    Certain parts with a gilded finish were called out with a T added to it. For instance, Part T7 in step A1 above was the first use of one of those designations. The backside of these gilded parts are all covered with paper that needs to be peeled off to expose the pre-applied adhesive underneath.  Needless to say, careful alignment is required to allow the exposed edges to blend in with the piece below, because they can't be shifted at all once they are in place.  Wherever these parts are employed, this symbol is nearby. 

    As the instructions continued on to step B, the diagram for the assembly of the frames on the keel. The previous A1 subset shown in gray, was brought forward and its new placement was shown below.

    Just below that diagram, the lower deck part is shown in pink and shows its alignment below that with the framed up keel in white. The first instance of folding a part came up now and was shown as an unlabeled subset. Careful bending was required for this interior stair assembly, because the core of the part could easily separate from the vinyl facing. Lastly, the placement on the deck of the stairs and twelve of the cast black plastic canons was shown to complete step B. Here are a few photos of the state of construction at this point.

 

 

    Step C followed with the alignment of the main deck on the previous frame and several subsets, including the main cabin entrance wall, the next deck above that with its pair of stairs, the curved balcony railing, and the ships wheel.
Here is the ship below with the subsets from step C added to the ship and a portion of step D.

 

 

 

    Step D was actually more of a continuation of C than a separate step. The subset C1 was brought forward and combined with the upper cabin walls and attached to the main deck. The upper cabin walls, the Poop deck above that with its railing, a fife rail that passed through an additional upper rear deck, and various other fittings to go with it were all assembled and added.
    Step D continued with a pair of curved stairs with subsets D1 and D2. Those stairs were quite a handful themselves, between bending in the curve, inserting the seven treads, and anchoring the ends to the two decks without twisting them out of shape. They are shown below after their installation and the status of the build at the completion of step D.

 

 

 

To be continued.