Stevinne

Welcome aboard, love your work so far. I'm originally from the Kensington section, so good to see another Brooklyn face.

Welcome aboard, love your work so far. I'm originally from the Kensington section, so good to see another Brooklyn face.

Good afternoon. I’ve just joined this forum, and would like to introduce myself. I’m a woodworker and boat builder/sailor in Brooklyn, NY. I have built models in the past, and now that I’m mostly captive, at home in our current crisis, I’ve pulled together some supplies to explore some further model making.
My main interest is small, working watercraft, particularly from the Chesapeake Bay region. I know that most of you are ship modelers, so I hope an interest in smaller craft doesn’t rule me out. Even in “real life”, my interest is more about traditional small craft, than ships, per se. If I’m in the wrong place, let me know!
My earlier models were planked, half models. The first was a 1:8 Marblehead “Beachcomber” Dory. The second was a Matinicus peapod.

I built a full size Matinicus too, rigged as a yawl.

I don’t know if there is any interest in these, but I do have some documentation. Beginners like me might find it interesting. I work from my own lofted lines, with materials I have milled myself. I have made my own “plywood” from Alaskan cedar veneer, vacuum bagged in three layers that equal about 1/16”. Perfect for 1:8 scale planking of boats of this type.
At any rate, I’m just starting a couple of new models, this time full hulls, with proper interiors. I’m building a Chapelle double ended sharpie, from lines and offsets I got from the Smithsonian.

And another beachcomber dory. I lofted that boat previously. I’ll start a thread, if there is any interest from the ship builders.
Thanks!
Cricket
 

I love rigging my ships. To me, it's the part that teaches me how the ships were operated. When I was a kid, I would just run lines all over my plastic ship kit. Now, it's great knowing that each line and shroud has a purpose and what that purpose is.
That being said, I do HATE ratlines.

My advice for a first build is to pick something simple that is double planked. The first layer of planking is relatively thick planks that let you learn how to plank a ship model. The second layer are usually a paper-thin veneer that lets you easily cover up your first mistakes and gives you a good looking model. One plus of Model Shipways kits is that the instructions are usually better than most other kits, usually written by folks to whom English is a first language and their are sometimes free practicums that you can download that provide step-by-step instructions on how someone else built the kit.
 

How about one of the Mini Mamoli line? They are solid hulls that she could paint, minimal parts and something like their Britannia, America or Bluenose would look pretty good.

How about one of the Mini Mamoli line? They are solid hulls that she could paint, minimal parts and something like their Britannia, America or Bluenose would look pretty good.

What he said. Couldn't agree more.
 
Steven

In my book "Mary Rose: Owners' Workshop Manual," the illustrations don't show any breeching ropes, though I can't imagine you'd want great guns rolling all over the place. One photo shows a modern wrought-iron replica with a securing rope, but no tackle to allow for traversing or running in and out. I wonder if this is because they have yet to find any indications of how the guns were rigged, so they just omitted the info?
 

and this poor bugger had to live in the shadow of his brothers sacrifice. (1798)
 

I stumbled on the following letter printed in 1799 that I thought was quite interesting.  It relates to the nicknames of ships...

My advice for a first build is to pick something simple that is double planked. The first layer of planking is relatively thick planks that let you learn how to plank a ship model. The second layer are usually a paper-thin veneer that lets you easily cover up your first mistakes and gives you a good looking model. One plus of Model Shipways kits is that the instructions are usually better than most other kits, usually written by folks to whom English is a first language and their are sometimes free practicums that you can download that provide step-by-step instructions on how someone else built the kit.
 

My advice for a first build is to pick something simple that is double planked. The first layer of planking is relatively thick planks that let you learn how to plank a ship model. The second layer are usually a paper-thin veneer that lets you easily cover up your first mistakes and gives you a good looking model. One plus of Model Shipways kits is that the instructions are usually better than most other kits, usually written by folks to whom English is a first language and their are sometimes free practicums that you can download that provide step-by-step instructions on how someone else built the kit.
 

Working on the stern, filling gaps between the various decks with 1.5x5mm planking.

My advice for a first build is to pick something simple that is double planked. The first layer of planking is relatively thick planks that let you learn how to plank a ship model. The second layer are usually a paper-thin veneer that lets you easily cover up your first mistakes and gives you a good looking model. One plus of Model Shipways kits is that the instructions are usually better than most other kits, usually written by folks to whom English is a first language and their are sometimes free practicums that you can download that provide step-by-step instructions on how someone else built the kit.
 

Another try at the line painting:
 

And another: https://ussconstitutionmuseum.org/2015/07/02/off-with-his-head/ and https://mcny.org/story/beheading-president-andrew-jackson (the current owners of the figurehead.

Here's a link to the story of Jackson's head:
 
https://www.nytimes.com/2010/04/05/nyregion/05jackson.html

Thank you, Eric. As to to using the stock ratlines, yes, I did indeed use them. Here are three more photos of the Constitution and one of the Thermopylae,
which I finished in 1960 when I was 13. Won a first place trophy with her at a USNR model boat show in Toledo the next year.
 
Keep up the good work, your Connie is lookin' fine.

Working on the stern, filling gaps between the various decks with 1.5x5mm planking.

With the weather warming up, and my son finally completing his Eagle Scout project, I have some time to get back to work. Over the weekend I headed out to my unheated garage work area and completed the first layer of planks. I actually overplanked the forecastle and had to remove one run after looking closely at the drawings.
I'm finding the instructions really hard to follow on this build. Also, I'm very stingy with wood. I was reading Fred Hocker's great book on the Vasa, and he talked about how the Dutch craftsmen would be careful not to waste any wood. I make the Dutchmen look generous. Still, I finished the first run of planking with one plank left to spare - and that would have been used if I hadn't saved every scrap and used them when they fit. Not giving me a lot of confidence about finishing this build without a materials run to Model Expo.
Next up, planking the stern and the facings on the various cabin walls.

It has been slow but steady work on the hull over the summer. Usually two or four planks per weekend, but I have finally completed the first layer of the lower hull. If anyone is ever building this kit, please take my advice and install balsa bow fillers between the frames. I'd thought about it, decided I didn't need them, and started regretting it almost immediately. This was my first galleon-type ship, and it is now my opinion that on these craft, bow fillers are a must.
Sir Francis Drake, who has been watching my work said "I told you so."
I have to say the wood was nice to work with.
I need to do some stealers around the stern and then I will plank the deck and install the cabin facings before finishing the first layer of bow planking.
 

Completed the first layer of planking around the gunport frames and added some additional planks. Also picked up a crewmember, courtesy of my printer. He's a little thin, but that's what happens when you live on naval rations.

Did some more planking, which went kind of smoothly. This is a double-planked kit, so there will be a good deal of sanding, maybe some filling to get things looking good. 
Found that my sprue cutter came in handy again. It made very precise plank cuts, so I was able to get the planking good and tight up against the gunport frames. Got it at the local craft store with a 40 percent off coupon and I have to say it is a very handy little tool.

Gave it a little thought over dinner and decided to add some framing pieces on either side of the gunport frame. I think this will make attaching the planks easier and more secure. It should also provide a little extra anchor for the frames. My apologies for the quality of the photos. Not sure if it is low light or I'm trying to take the photos too close.