Spaceman Spiff

5 minutes ago, ddp said:

USS New Orleans (LPH-11) https://www.navsource.org/archives/10/11/1111.htm

Thanks! Have most of those cataloged including images from Dad’s cruise book. It’s not easy to find those from the  69-70 era, as things changed after each retrofit 

Just a minor update on the mast. The first platform is on. The mast is totally from scratch: brass rod, plasticard, and photoetch. It’s difficult to find pictures of the New Orleans’ mast, so I’ve used a few from other ships in its class to piece it together. 

16 hours ago, mikegr said:

sad that there in not a worthy kit of this class in 1/350 or even in 1/700

I know, right? My luck would be that as soon as I’m finished they will come out with a good one 

20 hours ago, Old Collingwood said:

Good  to see  you back on  your build  -  sometimes  sme time off  helps  to get ones mojo  back.

 

OC.

Thanks! It is good to get back to it. I’ve been building planes, etc, off and on. As my skills went up I’m enjoying this more

Minor updates. All white/gray additions are scratch-built. Added lead wire for conduit. PE is on and I think that the island is almost done - it’s on to the mast which will totally be scratch-built. As crappy as this kit is, it’s the only game in town. Thanks for looking. 

Minor updates again - this kit sat on the shelf of doom since the last post. Hated it because it was pure crap. Still the only game in town so I decided to restart it. 
 

i used lead wire for conduit and started adding PE to the island. Still much more to do but here goes. Enjoy. Did I mention it was pure crap???

Hi, I’m looking to sell my copy of the Constitution practicum. I’d be willing to sell it for $50. 

Thank you for looking! 

Reasonable offers will be considered.

The kit is complete and has been opened for inspection purposes only. All parts accounted for. 

$500 (US). Shipping $30 (Continental US)

I would like to say that model expo came through in a huge way. I humbly apologize for any negativity I may have caused. Admins please delete this thread. Thanks to model expo!!!

Not sure if this is the right place to post this, if not then please move it to where it belongs. I finally started building my Gunboat Philadelphia and when I got to the bottom pieces (23S, 23P, and 24) I found they are of varying thicknesses and not usable. Last week, I contacted Model Expo using the online form (using the link given by a fellow member here) and even attached photos showing said parts. No response of any form. I sent an email to their modelexpo.parts email shown on their website and still no response. 

I can't move forward with the ship until I source the parts. Anyone have any other ideas? Or am I out of line posting here given no response or acknowledgement? 

Thanks for time and consideration. If my post is out of line, please delete it. 

On ‎10‎/‎26‎/‎2017 at 6:30 PM, jablackwell said:

The scale is not exactly the best to do accurate colors in any way.

 

 

 

 

Why? Are you entering it for awards? Make that thing pop!

On ‎10‎/‎22‎/‎2017 at 12:35 PM, b dylan said:

I would appreciate any comments on how to achieve a proper appearance for application of decals on a wood model.

I am wanting to achieve a weathered, matte finish.

This is a trial picture that demonstrates a shiny appearance of the decal on the matte finish. I obviously do not like this appearance and would like to see the decal blended into the wood better, without the shiny, stuck on appearance.

I have painted and weathered the wood and then applied a matte spray finish. I then applied the decal and used Microsol to try to soften the decal.

 

Any input on how to achieve a better result is appreciated. Thanks b dylan.

Future floor polish (the acrylic kind) is the best. Can be brushed or airbrushed. It levels very well and provides an excellent base and reduces silvering. Also a great setter, too. Once is dry, it can take any covering.

On ‎10‎/‎19‎/‎2017 at 2:10 PM, jablackwell said:

 

 

 

Great job! I thought about this kit, too. However, that engine and all the other white-metal pieces looks almost toy-like and having no life. Even if you are going for an unpainted look, every metal used wasn't the same exact color all the way through - the gun metal most certainly wasn't the same as used in engine as used in cowlings, etc. Paint/wash/drybrush/etc to bring things to life. I mean, why paint the engine mount (looks to be almost a WWII era interior green color - was that how the originals were painted or just something different?) and not the guns, engine, struts, etc.? Would really bring things to life and make it look like a real plane but without its skin. Great job on all accounts! I love it and don't mean to sound harsh...

Jake's is awesome. I think I could just make a meal of those sweet corn nuggets! Good stuff. What part are you in?

Welcome! Did two tours at Norfolk. I need to get back to Jake's BBQ! A lot of great people on this board. Welcome, again!

I have used a Crasftsman compressor for 10 years or so and use it with an Iwate HP airbrush. Never had any problems and does all I need it to. Heck, even used it air my vehicle tires, too!

Saw it over on hyperscale. Good stuff.

I mainly spray enamels with my Iwata but have used acrylics. I prefer to run 91% alcohol through my airbrush as this is great at getting acrylic out - especially the stubborn stuff. I have also heard that Windex works great, too.  Now, enamels are a whole different beast. I run lacquer thinner through it when I am cleaning the airbrush.

My Iwata only has a few parts so it takes like five minutes to disassemble, clean thoroughly, and reassemble. Pipe cleaners work great. It is also a good idea to use some oil made specifically for airbrushes on some of the parts. I know what some of you are thinking - won't that get into the paint the next time you use it? Maybe, but before I start painting I will always spray paint thinner through it just in case. Never had a problem.

Never have sprayed oils, but I awlays use Humbrol's Satin Cote - which is a solvent-based varnish and thin it with lacquer thinner. Never a problem. It is my go-to for final coat on my models (never have built a wooden one).

Now, for traditional varnishes - I have never tried it but know someone who sprays them using lacquer thinner and who says he never has a problem with it in his airbrush. I have never seen it used so I can't comment. Take it for what it's worth.

I had forgotten about the water trap!

g'day all, this is a great and very much appreciated thread. my question - i live in australia and am currently building the trumpeter 1:200 bismark with the mk1 design full upgrade kit. lots of p.e. so an airbrush is a must for me; but which one? there seem to be so many on the market its just mind boggling and then to add a compressor well the combinations are endless and the price range huge. so can someone tell me what a good gun and compressor for me to purchase here in australia please? i have never used and airbrush but am extremely experienced in industrial commercial spray painting i.e.. airless and hvlp. i really just want advice on a good specific model of both gun and compressor.

 

cheers chris

Be sure to post some pics! As far as airbrushes go, there is a wide-range of makes and models, from single action to double action. From what I have seen, Badger and Iwata are some of the best. But of course, you get what you pay for.

My personal setup is an Iwata HP BCR dual-action airbrush (dual action airbrushes make it much easier to do fine painting and detail work) and a Craftsman compressor. If you go the compressor route, get one that has an adjustable regulator that allows you use different pressures (this is very important for detail work).

Practice, practice, practice!

Minor update. With the new setup, I am unable to post pictures because I get the "upload failed"  message. So, here is where things stand. I wasn't able to work on the hull and get that hump flattened out enough so the flight deck will lay down correctly, so I did some work on the island instead. No matter how I tried to sand the bottom of the island, it never would stand straight when positioned upright.

I removed all of the PE doors from the sides and fitted sheet styrene around each side - I made one side a little longer than the other in order to get the island to stand upright. It had a slight lean which drove me crazy. Now, I just have to replace all of the doors and scratch some of the smaller stuff, and it will be ready. I then plan on adding all of the PE and painting it  before attaching it to the flight deck.

Sorry if the update wasn't exciting and pretty with pictures, but once I figure out how to add them I will go back and do so. Thanks for reading!

You are welcome. I always use it straight from the can. Honestly, this stuff sprays and lays down so well I see no need to decant it for airbrush use. I am a bit leery of the decanting process - I am afraid I won't let the degassing process complete (an experience I don't want to relive), so I never do it anymore. This stuff is great - I use both the white and grey, depending on what color(s) I will be putting on top of it. And, it is so thin that even if you do decide to decant it, it won't need to be thinned at all. You won't be disappointed.

Hi,

I have never used a water-based primer, so this may be of no help. I like to use Tamiya's Fine White primer - its only available in a spray can, but don't let that bother you. It lays down excellent and thin - sometimes when I am a little lazy, I will use this as my white. Their Fine Grey is also excellent.

I also have an Iwata - the HP BCR. Great airbrush!

Hello Les here. I have purchased photo etched wooden decking from D.J. Parkins. The engraving is very fine and am wondering how to go about painting this. Any help would be great.

I would use a primer first. My personal favorite is Tamiya Fine White (or Grey) - available only in a spray can. It covers very well and gives the paint something to hold on to.