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SteveA

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  1. Dr PR, Thanks for the link. Very informative and useful reference during the rigging process. I think I’ve done just about everything I can think of prior to rigging so it looks like it’s time to start. I’m going for a natural look on this model with a wood finish only and brass, it will be finished with Tung oil only. The kit was short changed on some parts materials so I had to build some parts with wood I had on hand (cherry, basswood, mahogany), but I think it worked out alright in the end with the Tung oil finish.
  2. I thought I’d provide an update on some work done on this model after a long hiatus. The hull has been planked and some initial sanding and filling has been done. The bulkheads have also been installed. I decided to plank over the frame reveal. I was on the fence whether to include this or not and in the end decided against it. I thought having a complete hull would make the copper plating process go smoother as I would not have to work around a hole in the hull. This model will be my first attempt at installing individual copper plates.
  3. Hello all, I’m back to working on this old kit after a lengthy break so wanted to provide a brief update on progress. I was never really happy with the way the gun turned out so a remodel was in order. A nice turned brass 12 pounder was ordered from HiSModel along with the carriage. That cannon is now installed after a bit of destruction and rebuilding. The kit provided a few steel ball bearings for placement on the rack. I used some brass blackener on them and was happy with the result: I’m currently working on the fore and main mast. Trying to deal with missing pieces and insufficient material, but I’m still determined to finish this one…
  4. I appreciate the feedback on this topic. I’ve decided to get the larger 16/32 version as it comes with a stand and bigger motor and seems like a better deal. It also has optional extension tables available. I saw a few complaints about the 10/20 being underpowered in the reviews. I’ll look into getting the end spring tool as advised.
  5. I would like to get a drum sander for general woodworking purposes, but would also like to be able to use it for modeling. The Jet 1020 desktop drum sander looks like it would be a good fit. I was wondering if anyone has used this sander and what their experience is as far as milling thin wood sheets for ship modeling. According to the specs, it is able to sand down to 1/32” thickness, probably with a backer board.
  6. I have an Occre Xebec kit started that I am building more or less out of the box. Longer term build is a scratch 1:48 Syren brig using Chuck’s excellent instructions. I have a pile of cherry scraps and cut offs from furniture builds that I plan to use, we’ll see how it goes…
  7. Yes! I completed the model a few months back. It is proudly sitting on the dining room mantle along with a few other David Antscherl designed kits. Thanks for asking, here are a few pics: Here is my collection in order of construction from left to right…
  8. Just to clarify, when it says “Madera”, that just means wood in Spanish, it is a precut piece that you should be able to identify from the picture or drawing.
  9. I looked at the Corsair instructions on the Occre website and it only shows sapelli, lime/sycamore, and walnut being supplied with the kit, same as my Occre Xebec kit. Sapelli is the brown wood with porous grain, typically used as a top finish surface in planking. Lime/sycamore is the cream colored wood used for dowels, under layer planking and decking in my kit. The thicker hardwood pieces may be dyed walnut. My kit has walnut pieces, but they aren’t colored like that. Walnut is typically used for deck furnishings, etc…
  10. The 1836 brigantines Dolphin and Porpoise would make interesting model subjects. They were the last sub 100 foot two masters built for the U.S. navy and were considered excellent sailers, both having lengthy careers. Dolphin was burned at Norfolk in 1861. Porpoise took part in the 1853 Ringgold expedition, but was lost in the China Sea in 1854. At 1/4” scale, the hull would be around 22 inches between perps.
  11. Your drawing looks correct, the false deck should extend to the edge of the slot so the bulwark pieces sit flush in the slot. It took me a while to figure this out as well.
  12. I’m starting a new build of the Civil War era USS Kearsarge as she appeared in the battle of Cherbourg on June 19, 1864, at least that is what Bluejacket was shooting for with this kit. Here are her specs from the Dictionary of American Naval Fighting Ships: Displacement: 1,550 tons Length: 201’ 4” Beam: 33’ 10” Draft: 14’ 3” Speed: 11 knots Complement: 163 Armament: two 11” Dahlgren, four 32-pdr., one 30-pdr. Dahlgren So far I’ve put together the bulkheads and sub deck, and glued it to the building board. I just started faring the hull for planking. This is my first Bluejacket kit and it looks like it will be a challenging build. They rank it as an advanced kit with previous building experience recommended. There appears to be a nice focus on detail as there are a lot of very tiny parts. I went ahead and ordered the optional copper plates, so this will be my first coppering attempt. The kit gives you the option of including a frame reveal section showing the iron cross bracing and chain armor, I will include this feature in my build.
  13. Thanks! I appreciate the support and positive comments on this build. I’m in the home stretch now, with commencement of the rigging starting with the hanger and choker lines:
  14. I really appreciate this discussion, very informative! So following the recommendations, I need to look for an iron folding anchor with a shank length around 50 mm. The anchor will be lashed to ring bolts added to the deck. I just received a used copy of The History of American Sailing Ships by Chapelle today. It does look like the AL Dallas kit was based on the 80-ton Doughty design shown in Figure 32. Chapelle speculated that the Dallas and her sister ship Surprise were of the 80 ton variety.
  15. As it happens, I won’t be using the kit supplied anchors regardless of scale or period correctness. I just opened the bag they were in and they fell apart. I don’t know what they are made from, but it looks like the anchors would have eventually disintegrated even if installed when the kit was new. The carronade barrel was unusable as well. The kit box has a copyright date of 1978. Now I need to look for appropriate replacements for a revenue cutter circa 1815 around 1:50 scale.
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