Thunder

Excellent, have the first three volumes and was looking into getting the plans as seemed little point having the books without them.

The most important thing is that you enjoy what you are doing, that is after all what having a hobby is all about. I like to think I am producing something of accuracy but that does not mean that is right for everyone. You build your model the way you want it and enjoy what you have produced.

The most important thing is that you enjoy what you are doing, that is after all what having a hobby is all about. I like to think I am producing something of accuracy but that does not mean that is right for everyone. You build your model the way you want it and enjoy what you have produced.

The most important thing is that you enjoy what you are doing, that is after all what having a hobby is all about. I like to think I am producing something of accuracy but that does not mean that is right for everyone. You build your model the way you want it and enjoy what you have produced.

The most important thing is that you enjoy what you are doing, that is after all what having a hobby is all about. I like to think I am producing something of accuracy but that does not mean that is right for everyone. You build your model the way you want it and enjoy what you have produced.

Just my opinion but I think what could be a great model can be made to look like a toy if the rigging is poor. It does not take a lot of effort to make it look better, even just the use of different size threads makes a difference.
 
I have said many times but the best guide for an Airfix / Plastic kit is the books by Noel C Hackney. For your period of rig you would be best with the Mayflower book. Especially as you have this kit on your shelf. Takes you through the build and any modifications that you can possibly do to improve. It then takes you through the rigging step by step. I used it as a basis for my Airfix Golden Hind.
 

 

Just my opinion but I think what could be a great model can be made to look like a toy if the rigging is poor. It does not take a lot of effort to make it look better, even just the use of different size threads makes a difference.
 
I have said many times but the best guide for an Airfix / Plastic kit is the books by Noel C Hackney. For your period of rig you would be best with the Mayflower book. Especially as you have this kit on your shelf. Takes you through the build and any modifications that you can possibly do to improve. It then takes you through the rigging step by step. I used it as a basis for my Airfix Golden Hind.
 

 

Just my opinion but I think what could be a great model can be made to look like a toy if the rigging is poor. It does not take a lot of effort to make it look better, even just the use of different size threads makes a difference.
 
I have said many times but the best guide for an Airfix / Plastic kit is the books by Noel C Hackney. For your period of rig you would be best with the Mayflower book. Especially as you have this kit on your shelf. Takes you through the build and any modifications that you can possibly do to improve. It then takes you through the rigging step by step. I used it as a basis for my Airfix Golden Hind.
 

 

Just my opinion but I think what could be a great model can be made to look like a toy if the rigging is poor. It does not take a lot of effort to make it look better, even just the use of different size threads makes a difference.
 
I have said many times but the best guide for an Airfix / Plastic kit is the books by Noel C Hackney. For your period of rig you would be best with the Mayflower book. Especially as you have this kit on your shelf. Takes you through the build and any modifications that you can possibly do to improve. It then takes you through the rigging step by step. I used it as a basis for my Airfix Golden Hind.
 

 

Good day,
Dear bosco72,
Studing your model pictures I saw You did your standing rigging in some  wrong way...
sorry for that stupid question,may be You did it in purpose or why?
*it looks like You did all shrouds and stays of the same thickness( sizes),normaly they must be different in sizes!
*wrong way of location shrouds loops and stays...normaly it should be  secured above tops plarform,on the mast tops, but You placed them  under top platforms...
   If there is intention to make rigging in more right /correct way, I would like to recommend You to read this easy for reading  books( Anderson and Mondfeld), in this books You could found condenced information practically regarding each important rope of rigging of 16- 17 centure vessel.
   A  few readen pages will serve you very good when You will be busy with  rigging your model.
 There You could find information about purpose and sizes of each important ropes and rigs of the old fasion vessel as well as tables( in Mondfeld book) with rope sizes in proportions to rigs/or main mast dimension/ diam.
  Below I gave some simplified picture with precalculated rigging rope sizes, calculation based on information from this books.
 There is exell table for automatic calculation ropes sizes of standing rigging as well
Main stay size( diam) calculated in proportion to main mast diam.
0.166 of main mast , all other ropes sizes calculation based on main stay diam.
Wish You all the Best!
Kirill
on the pictures dimensions given in mm
roughly says , they could be used for the your model scale, strait from pictures
 





standing rigging thickness.xls

The answer to that might be that the designer left them and they no longer have anyone that can finish it.

I would take a look at the 'Modellers Shipyard' kit range. Their Mary Burne ketch or mermaid cutter would be good options and less war like. Never seen one of these kits to say how good they are but subjects look good. I think there is a Mermaid build on here. 

I would take a look at the 'Modellers Shipyard' kit range. Their Mary Burne ketch or mermaid cutter would be good options and less war like. Never seen one of these kits to say how good they are but subjects look good. I think there is a Mermaid build on here. 

I would take a look at the 'Modellers Shipyard' kit range. Their Mary Burne ketch or mermaid cutter would be good options and less war like. Never seen one of these kits to say how good they are but subjects look good. I think there is a Mermaid build on here. 

Hi, photographs below are from my unbuilt kit.


 
 I have pieced the parts together as best as possible to give you the hull dimensions. looks to be about 505mm from figurehead to taffrail. Measuring from the Anatomy of the ship book Bounty I get same dimension to be 336mm@1/96 scale. Which i think comes out at 504mm @ 1/64 scale.
 

I did see the Arkowood, there is also Ahorn (maple), Birke (Birch), and Weisbuche (hornbeam or white beech?) which all look to be good woods. 
 
Thank you for your comments. Tempted to try.
 
 

Hi they have labelled it as Buxbaum Castello wood from Brazil which I believe translates as boxwood.
 
Thank you for your comments a great help.

I did see the Arkowood, there is also Ahorn (maple), Birke (Birch), and Weisbuche (hornbeam or white beech?) which all look to be good woods. 
 
Thank you for your comments. Tempted to try.
 
 

Thank you for the replies, I was looking for something to replace the walnut in my next kit and found the above site after someone placed it on here. The boxwood seems a very good price compared to another provider in the UK which does not sell the sizes the same as the kit. I could actually buy the boxwood and the beech for the same price as the boxwood alone in the UK. Before I purchased i wanted an idea of quality. I have seen a few on site that have purchased box only to find it was what looked like dyed lime.
 
Perhaps i could email for a small sample of each. They do sell pear as well but this is more expensive.

Hi,
 
Two questions, has anyone used the attached site in Germany?
 
Willkommen bei der MassivHolzWerkstatt. - modellbau-holzs Webseite! (massiv-holz-werkstatt.de)
 
Is the Buxbaum Castello wood from Brazil good enough quality for second planking?
 
Oh, a third question. Beech is often described as the scale oak, has anyone planked with this and what are its characteristics? Does it cut and bend easily, is it easy to work with?
 
O.k. 5 questions but whose counting!
 
Adrian
 
 

Hi, photographs below are from my unbuilt kit.


 
 I have pieced the parts together as best as possible to give you the hull dimensions. looks to be about 505mm from figurehead to taffrail. Measuring from the Anatomy of the ship book Bounty I get same dimension to be 336mm@1/96 scale. Which i think comes out at 504mm @ 1/64 scale.
 

Hi, photographs below are from my unbuilt kit.


 
 I have pieced the parts together as best as possible to give you the hull dimensions. looks to be about 505mm from figurehead to taffrail. Measuring from the Anatomy of the ship book Bounty I get same dimension to be 336mm@1/96 scale. Which i think comes out at 504mm @ 1/64 scale.
 

Margin plank looking good there. For the nibbling i would make simple. Plank should not be more than half width at the end so lay in place butting against last plank, mark half width point on plank, then mark where on side of plank at the point the margin plank is revealed. Remove plank and cut to the waste side of this line. Lay back in place and with a very sharp scalpel cut along plank edge to remove portion of margin plank. You should now have an exact fit.
 
Two thinks to check, wood grain direction on margin so does not drag scalpel away from plank edge and where plank falls at the joggling joints of the sections of margin planks. The second is more for aesthetic reasons.
 
 

Or if in the UK go and take a look at the place below:
 
https://www.bucklershard.co.uk/
 
Well worth a visit

Or if in the UK go and take a look at the place below:
 
https://www.bucklershard.co.uk/
 
Well worth a visit