Captain Poison

With the exception of the stern lanterns and a few rope hanks (more on this later in the post), the deck work is done!
The last few steps took a little longer than I anticipated... shocking, I know!
The ship's bell was a challenging assembly. Bending the brass wire wasn't too bad but soldering the hook to the wire took some practice as I hadn't soldered in quite some time. In the end, I got it looking decent and then did some blackening to give it that aged look:

The half-pounder cannons were equally challenging as the assembly really wasn't thought out very well by the kit manufacturer (IMHO).
First, after doing some research, I could not find a single image of a cannon that was bent at about a 75 degree angle... all of them were straight, front to back. Based on that, I did not bend mine. Second, the brass wire used to hold the cannon to the bracket was so small that it would just slide out... more soldering! I soldered the wire to the brackets and blackened the entire assembly before installing them:

The bell installed:

The cannons installed:

Rope coils, hanks and served lines were a bigger problem than I thought.
As I've mentioned, I make my own rope and I use a poly material rather than cotton. Poly has a longer life and does not have that annoying "fuzz".
What I didn't know is that diluted PVA IS NOT a good adhesive to use on poly rope!
I have another thread in the masting and rigging section about this problem and got some good help from the more knowledgeable members. After reading through their comments and suggestions, I have decided to try 3 different methods to solve the problem.
1. Use clear shellac
2. Use Liquitex Matte Medium
3. Use Downy fabric softener (this for the hanks only)
Once, I have completed my experiments, I'll report back here and on the previously mentioned thread.
In the meantime, I did do a couple of loose coils for the Launch using diluted PVA (which was a struggle and began my search for another method):

The next update may be a bit as our first long boat trip starts later in the week. We'll talk again when I have more to report.

Its been some time since my last post, due in part to shipping being suspended to New Zealand.  Lets hope that the last time it happens.
Now, having taken delivery of Chapters 8,9,10 there is no reason not to continue.
Looking back I seem to have neglected to upload photos of Chapter Seven so here goes, a mixture of flash  and non flash.


And so on to the Forecastle. I had some issues with the curve of the  bow but was able to sort them out.
I also wanted to mount two guns  here but found the partial deck not wide enough, so I installed extra planks to avoid having the rear trucks hanging in space.






Time for the Quarter Deck.

Good morning.

Thanks for the likes and kind comments.
 
I decided to go ahead and make the rudder trunk and seats as well as the two ladderways.
These are some really beautiful laser cut and etched parts that go together and look fantastic when finished.

The breastrail which was one of those in between projects I've been working on is finished. It looks pretty straight forward, but the six columns required some time to shape. Luckily the laser cut side gave me the shape that needed to be duplicated on the adjacent side.

Mike

The swivel stocks are made from a 5/32" x 532" strip.  Their lengths are all different and should be taken from the plans.  They will be sanded or files on all for corners to make them 8 sided.  BUT....not where they sit against the hull.  Here you leave that prtion flat on the entire side.  You can see one pair of swivel stocks below.  One is dressed and the other undressed.  Not the flat side.  Measure on you model the length of the flat portion to fit against the hull.  From the top of the shear down.  The bottom was rounded off as well.
 
The hole in the top was made with a #65 bit for the swivel guns and a thin band of black tape wrapped around the very top.  You have to do a lot of measuring from your model to determine the end of the black and the frieze allowing for a natural area to match where the molding is.  Just take your time measuring and marking.  The friezes were applied as usual after printing them on tissue paper.   They were applied with a glue stick and I did my best to match the pattern but it isnt that critical.
 

Some photos showing the stocks installed.   I notched away the molding and overhang of the shear to accommodate them.  I also did my best to make sure they were vertical but also matching the angles of the rails.  They will follow the shape of the hull as well and lean a bit to match the curvature of the hull.
 

The aft-most swivel stock also angles against the forward side of the transom.  This makes it look a bit odd depending on the angle but the original drat shows it this way rather than vertical like the other stocks.
 




 

hi....finished the portside planking.... before i start on starboard side i wil drill the hole for treenails...😉
then do the rest... of planking... 
 
 
svein.erik

https://cafmodel.com/products/hms-granado-1

More dealers choice....swivel stocks
 
On the contemporary model there are two swivel stocks on each side of the fcastle.   On the original draft there is only one.  Only the stock forward of the shrouds is shown.   Its up to you really.  
 
I am going to omit this swivel stock aft of the shrouds because it is not shown on the original draft.   I also think it hurts the graceful flow of the rail into the waist.  But its up to you.   
 

In addition,  the contemporary model does not show the aft-most swivel stock along the qdeck.   But it is shown on the draft making it 3 per side.   
 
I am just pointing out some discrepancies in case any of you notice it.   It would be fine to show all ten swivel stocks that I show on our model plans and the two on the bollard timberheads.  But if you agree that the second pair on the fcastle would be visually problematic,  you can omit them too.
 
And also,  the stocks on Amazon are completely round.  Those on the Winnie Contemporary model are six sided.  BUT...for me it is much easier to take a 5/32" x 5/32" strip and make it 8 sided by sanding the corners.  I follow the 7-10-7 formula for doing so.  Although its easy enough if you are careful to just free hand it.
 
Omitting that one pair of stocks on the fcastle also follows the arrangement shown on the Amazon and some other contemporary models.  Below.  As I have mentioned, the Amazon is one of my inspiration examples while working on the project.  I believe you can see the similarities between it and our project.
 


 
 

Swivels...
 

The swivels are cast in resin as you can see above.  They come on a spru. You need to cut them free with a flush cutter and sand off the nubs.  These are not drilled for the trunnion.  You need to drill them thru with a #65 drill bit.  That is the perfect size.   You also need to use the same bit to drill a hole into the back end below the button.  This is for the handle.
 
The handle and yoke ....or bracket, is laser cut out of acrylic.   Just glue the handle into the hole in the back end you drilled.  Hopefully it was centered with the trunnion holes and below the button.  
 
The bracket is easily added.  Slide the muzzle end into the space of the bracket until its lined up with the trunnion holes.  Then gently pull the bracket down so the fork start spreading apart.  It will flex and snap right into the trunnion holes you drilled....that is if you used a #65 bit.
 
The small disc you see in the photo is for the tops of the swivel mount.   You will add the disc on top before inserting the bracket into a hole you drilled in the wooden mount.  These are quite tiny and hard to photograph....here are the swivels assembled and weathered.  I sprayed them with matt fixative or dull coat first and then applied some weathering powder.
 



I didnt make the swivel mounts for the side of the hull yet.   But there are also two swivels up front on the bollard timbers.
 
I drilled the #65 hole in the top of the timberheads.  Then I added the acrylic disc...no glue needed.  Just position it and slide the swivel into the hole locking the disc in place.
 


These will be sold in packages of six resin swivel guns along with the laser cut parts for the bracket and handle and discs. 
 
Now to make those swivel mounts for the remaining ten.

Working on front channels and chain plates, the billboard is being test fit for a template. Just a little progress shot

Working on channels 🔻

Decided on black🔻

 

I suppose I'll have to add cannon lids soon

 

 

Looks like you could run both ways with it. But I agree with you, perhaps the modeler didn’t want to cut a nice run of moulding. And since it’s not actually functional I think aesthetics take priority. Also the molding and the steps seem to have similar profiles.
I checked my drafts for Portland class and it shows the same thing.
 

Fun with fenders today!!
 

 
Fenders may seem like a small detail but it is very important.  These small pieces can really hurt the appearance of your model if done poorly.  These are laser cut for you just like the channels.  They are done in three layers.  Very thin outside layers is the key.  But one often overlooked detail is the fact that the fenders do taper thinner as the work their way lower on the hull.  That is when viewing them head on.  To add this detail will elevate your model as well as getting the beaded edges made by the layers nice and neat.
 

 
The center layer had the char removed first.  Then I thinned down and tapered them towards the bottom.   Only then did I add the outside layers.   After using some wipe on poly I set them aside.   But now it was time to carefully chisel away the molding on the hull to accept them.  Do this carefully to get nice tight seams.   I glued the fenders in place first on the hull and then added the fries so I could carefully match the pattern as best I could.   Then I painted the top black to match the sheer cap.   
 
I hope you can see the nice beaded edges and the taper.  I will note that I used tissue paper this time to print the friezes.  I wanted it very thin so I could push it into the beaded edge with a dull toothpick.   I used a glue stick for the adhesive.   It will be almost impossible to match the pattern but its more important to just get some neat color on the fenders that match.   
 

 
Any questions or comments.????
 
Now its onto the other side...and then the chesstrees which are done exactly the same.  The chesstrees have a sheave through them however and you will see that soon enough.
 
 

Yes but that will be separate…not a chapter per se.  it will be a whole new mini kit..one thats pretty involved I think.  Mounted on two spare topmasts like this.  I am not considering it as part of the winnie project because it could also be a stand alone project.
 
I am looking forward to your build log…start it up already!!!
 

 
Mike I think he was referring to Chris Watton of Vanguard  
 
Chuck

Hello everyone, I'm sorry that due to the pressure of my family, my wife doesn't agree with me to continue the non-commercial ship model project, so I stopped (or suspended) all personal non-commercial projects. Of course, L'Artesien is non-commercial, because it's very difficult for me to obtain the license from Ancre - the probability that I obtain the license from Ancre is less than 0.0001%,i think.
 
I would like to thank all the enthusiastic members who have followed this project.
 
My friend Dahai, who is also my partner, will use his method to make La Artesien.This is the model he's working on.

 

 

 
So I will continue the carving parts of this project, including figure head,but I'm busy with the Cunmberland 1774 project right now, so it will be in a few months.
 
My friend helped me remake the head using sculpture clay.

 

 
I made some modifications with the software myself,
 

 
So this carving set will be reborn in another way.
 
By the way, I'll give you a preview of my new project, HMS Cumberland 1774, which I'm starting to validate.

 
Currently, the scale of 1:48 and 1:36 is being verified.

 

 
This is designed based on the original draught of NMM. My UK partner obtained (purchased) the license for the commercial kit development of this project in 2018.All the software used in the design, CNC programming and processing of this project has purchased commercial license. (rhino6, rhinocam 2018, silo2.5, ZBrush 2018...) includes plug-ins for ZB, and other software...
 
Thank you!
 
Jack
 
 

Good morning.

Good morning.

Good morning.

That's right, it's a wood filler. In Spanish is called "tapaporos" (a compound word formed by the verb cover -tapar- and the noun pores -poros-).

Good morning.

Hi Every one, Its been awhile since my last update and most probably figure I fell off the ends of the world. Well the misses sent me a life line and  finally went back to doing some thing on her. I sort of been stuck  on the cables and how the messenger was routed. Ben from Ropes of Scale help me on the cable and Druxey gave me the ideal about the snatch block.  So  I went to work on making a snatch block for the messenger using Lee's measurement, from his  book The Masting and Rigging of English ships. It didn't come out to bad But I leave that up to you. 

The darker deadeyes are growing on me.  I think I also fixed my camera settings...hopefully these are better.   But I did finish the deadeyes and chainplates on the port side.   I also started a test on the Billboard.  Thats the board that covers the first two chainplates at the bow.  Its just above the anchore lining.
 
Basically its a 5/32" x 5/64 strip that was rounded off on the ends and the edges as well.  This was placed above the anchor lining and cut so the ends overhang the sides of the anchor lining just a bit for and aft.  The billboard is laser cut and etched with planks already.  There is also a laser etched rabbet on the back side where it fits against the channel.   The bottom edge is beveled to sit flat on top of the strip I just mentioned.    Then I rounded off the top edge and applied the frieze.   I am not sure if I should extend the frieze all the way up on the billboard as I left just a sliver natural to match the thickness of the channel.  I will sit on that for a bit before deciding.
 
Anyway....some pictures.
 
 
 
 

 

Small Sunday afternoon update: one side ‘planking above the wales’ finished!
Better than a jig saw puzzle, but slightly comparable in my opinion…
Took me about three weeks off and on in my loft, so next update in three weeks hopefully.