Captain Poison

@FriedClams
@Dowmer
Hi, many thanks for your nice comments, and all the others for the many LIKES.
The largest anchor of the corvette is placed on the anchor brackets. About the final fastening I still have to get clear.

Hi,
thanks for your nice comments. And to all the others also a thank you for the many Likes.
Today I show step by step how I made these blocks.
The pictures speak for themselves.

 

 

 

 

 
 

Finally, the second planking belt is completed.  My biggest decision was whether to have the aft planking feather out at the transom or leave it erose.  I saw examples from this era using both approaches and could not make out the detail on the model.  I decided to continue to feather the planks.  Those of you who are wiser than I, please correct me if I am wrong, as it would not take too much work to go the other route.  I removed the transom planking and will re-plank it after the hull planking is completed.  Only six more rows to go!






 

My friend said  "Here is why I can't go with cloak button. This is an antique Victorian cloak button. Note the elaborate design around the edges and the overall thickness of the metal. This is more like a brooch, an ornamental jewellery piece, and I suspect they were made more from semi precious/ precious metals and stones."

This morning I was chatting with a curator of the Museum and I am waiting for results, probably the piece will be sent to the museum for better analysis..another thing is not a button from a cloak for sure.

My friend said  "Here is why I can't go with cloak button. This is an antique Victorian cloak button. Note the elaborate design around the edges and the overall thickness of the metal. This is more like a brooch, an ornamental jewellery piece, and I suspect they were made more from semi precious/ precious metals and stones."

This morning I was chatting with a curator of the Museum and I am waiting for results, probably the piece will be sent to the museum for better analysis..another thing is not a button from a cloak for sure.

My friend said  "Here is why I can't go with cloak button. This is an antique Victorian cloak button. Note the elaborate design around the edges and the overall thickness of the metal. This is more like a brooch, an ornamental jewellery piece, and I suspect they were made more from semi precious/ precious metals and stones."

Boat's planking done :
               

Here is the new re worked version.










Here is the blue version.

This morning I was chatting with a curator of the Museum and I am waiting for results, probably the piece will be sent to the museum for better analysis..another thing is not a button from a cloak for sure.

If it's cast iron, judging by what looks like rust, it could be the knob for a door of an oven or stove.

If the first photo is rotated 180 degrees, it looks like a flower from the Trumpet Vine. Is that vestiges of green paint in the recesses or corrosion? If it is green paint it would have been a pretty piece, green in the recesses with the high points polished off. Interesting. 

Thank you gentlemen, just contact the National Museums Scotland..

A friend in Scotland, Brora specifically, walking along the beach discovered this piece, from what he told me it is made of bronze and it would seem to be the handle of a closet or similar.
The design is a nautilus shell among what I believe is a collection of shells. What else could it be off? The obverse shows what I believe is where it was attached to a drawer or similar.
One faint possibility is a French sloop, Le Prince Charles Stewart, an ex Royal Navy ship the Hazard which had been captured in Montrose and renamed. It was carrying gold for the Jacobites from France. It was intercepted by the Sheerness and chased into the Kyle of Tongue where it ran aground. 
 
Someone may have seen something similar and can help me identify this piece. I will be grateful in advance ...

Post 3
 
I have determined a program now I have to do it
 
First up was the final finagling that some of us need to go through before deciding on the program.  I have now taken more of the plans and cross referenced them and found despite a few discrepancies that things seem to lay out as I have them.  One good thing is I reopened the PDF with the dimensions and found there the long dimension was correct at 108’1 ¾ and the 105’ was what seemed written on the over blown up [ to life size] version embedded  in turbo cad. Lesson learned is perhaps I should have not blown up the drawings to life size as there must be other details that I am missing.
11 The final discrepancy came when taking the framing at deck level plan and projecting it to use for the Jig layout.   The frames there are clearly 15 inches wide and 6 inches thick on the deck framing plan. They are also drawn as if they are parallel to the framing.  The space between frame is 9 inches and the stanchions nearly fill it up.   Allan talks about molded dimension of 15 inches, but I assumed that meant the over cutting needed for the bevels in the other direction, so one ends up with 6 inches thickness on the continuing curve.  The width would end up 12 inches measured fore and aft and a little more  parallel to the planking due to fairing.
 
 
 
12 here is my final test before deciding which of two routes.  I used Turbocad to accurately lay out the stations and then set that over the downloaded deck framing plan.   Not surprisingly it has some oddities that I would agree with Allan are stretching and other aspects of digitizing old drawings as opposed to the models they created that are most likely perfect. At the bottom of the drawing are the green and read frame located off the vertical frame elevation drawing I talked about in an earlier post.
 
So, in the end I have determined to use the downloaded framing location plan.  My skill level is not up any of these conclusions to make much difference. My decision, however allows skipping a step of recreating the frame plan.   My getting into this issue is not because I think my model will be or even look different, it is just my joy of learning.  I plan to use the frame layout in the Park Service drawings and giggle the offsets a little as I make up the intermediate frame drawings. That means most frames and gaps are indeed ¼”.  Several, especially forward, will be 3/16” gaps to make the math work.    Following the lead of the Allan, I will then overcut every frame and buy more sandpaper to make things right. If I end up with kindling that is fine too.
 
So first up let us build the jig and set up production.
 
I have read in recent logs that 1/8th Masonite is too flimsy.  Right next to it at Home Depot is ¼” MDF so I decided to give it a go.
13 here I have taken the deck level framing plan and adhered it to the MDF on two pieces, so the step up can be facilitated
 
14 Here I have adjusted one sheet under the other for the step at frame 24.
 
15 I little cut out on the band saw with some help on the points by chisel or scroll saw on the transom and we are ready to go.  I assume I will need to notch for the bow stem but leave that for now.  I plan to use ¼ or 3/16” shims between the frames to keep them properly spaced, so I have lines but no notches at the top of the jig.    If I can install interior deck beam shelves [ the new design I will share in another post], that should make everything strong enough to lift out and then do some serious fairing
 
 
16 I am bragging that this new project got me a new thickness sander.   So first a little learning curve and then we can make our own lumber.  The first plank was touch and go but I learned to shorten up the wood and all went well. I need an arrow to remember which way the screw nob tightens for consecutive passes.
 
17 The first frame is #8.  As I said I am making a frame drawing at each station. Whether it goes at, just fore or aft of, or even one-half space away, it really is close.
 
18 Here we are glued up and ready to cut out  
 
19 the second one always goes easier
 
 
20 here we are with most things ready.  There seem to be several tasks. i prefer to move around and do some of each task each day, I can work on this project for as little as 15 minutes or all morning. Some people work one task until it is all done then do all the next task.  I like to do a little of each task and move on.
 
 
21 from the other end we see the work table coming along
On the table we have
a.       2 strips of ripped poplar roughly 5/32 by ¾ by 8 feet
b.       3 short strips from former ripped stock finished in the thickness sander for 1/8 thickness
c.       The jig all screwed together with posts set to have the top of the drawing of the deck section correctly set above the keel
d.       Two rough cut frames set in close to where they go
e.       Two more frames ready to cut out
f.        The Keelson and stem components ready to go in after the center frames are in place.
g.       The computer in the next room waiting for me to draw the next frames to manufacture
h.       The keel waiting to be properly aligned and secured.  
 
I think I have some more planning like how to attach forward frame 1-7 to the keelson and stem.  Do I rout out a slot or glue and pin? then how to make trunnions for the frames to strengthen them and for looks on those that will be visible. 
 
All for now we have got to make more sawdust 

Ballast stones removed from between the barrels.
Karl
 

 

 

 

Ballaststone / Error
 
Karl
 

 
 
 
 

Thanks to everyone for the kind comments and likes.
 
Ballast stones, size and color of the stones changed.
Additional storage barrels installed in the storage rooms.
 
Karl
 

 

 

 

 
 
 

Production of the storage barrels in the individual work steps.
 
Although I didn't fill the entire storage room with it.
 
The ballast stones should actually be a bit smaller and more rounded,
but I didn't get them anywhere. Also works like that.
 
Gerard Delacroix once wrote to me,
Ballast stones were roughly the size of a walnut.
 
Ballast stones were mixed thoroughly with grinding ground sa an adhesive,
and filled up between the individual barrels.
 
Karl
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

Hello and thanks to everyone for their kind comments.
 
Orlop Deck,
Dividing walls and pumps-shaft installed.
I leave the shaft partly open to show the pumps
and the cannonball shaft with its three diffrent calibres.
 
First gun deck,
partially planked to show the substructure.
 
Next I will probably install the ballast stones and storage barrels.
 
Karl
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Rudder blade rebuilt or reneved.
Karl
 

Thanks to everyone for the kind comments and likes.
 
Before equipping the 1st gun deck, I fitted the deck beams and knees
of the 2nd gun deck and then dismantled them again.
 
Karl
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I thought I would put in a request for Chris' consideration since we are speculating about what models he might have in mind to eventually add to his selection. I love the sleek lines and lateen sails of the Chebec also called Xebex or Chebeque. These fast warships are incredibly beautiful in my opinion and I would love to see Chris make a model kit for one of them someday.
 

 

Both kits were manufactured by Corel.  Don't think they are still in production but both are available on eBay.