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DB789

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Everything posted by DB789

  1. DB789
    I was one of those enquiring about a Master Shipwright Flirt, but now have a new Speedy waiting to be built. Much as I love your models Chris, and I’m on my ninth VM kit, even for me building both Speedy and Flirt might be a step too far…
  2. DB789
    Hope you’re OK! Your Adder is looking super, wish I could plank as neatly as you.
  3. DB789
    Adder’s rigging is progressing. Most of the main mast rigging is in place except for lifts, braces and any stays to the foremast that would get in the way of adding the yards to the foremast. The access problem to add eyebolts to the maintop was resolved by removing the wooden railing at the rear of the maintop. I’ll need to do the same for the foretop. I haven’t gone into any detail on the log of how I’ve gone about rigging, I’m sure it would just be a guide of how not to do it and the use of too much CA glue. The yards aren’t aligned properly yet and will be when lifts and braces are added. As far as possible I’ve tied lines off or crocodile clipped them rather than glued so I can tension them later if need be. I won’t be able to work on Adder much, if at all for the next 3 weeks, but after that will be back on the case.
  4. DB789
    She looks super. Well done!
  5. DB789
    Congratulations on an amazing model. I wish I had your skill (and patience)! I’ve really enjoyed following on and learnt lots from your build. Thank you.
  6. DB789
    Glenn, Eck, Thank you both. Really appreciated. I’ll try and get the eyebolt in there with block attached! Best wishes Dan
  7. DB789
    I’d love some advice. I’m fitting the yards to the main mast. I can’t work out from the plans how the line that goes through a hole in the topgallant mast and holds up the topgallant yard works - not sure if this is called a tye or a jeer? I’ve checked the Petersson book I have but it’s not clear either. The plans appear to show this line “C” tied to a block “N” which in turn has lines running to a block attached to the maintop “K” (single 3mm block) on the plans. And then back up to the “N” and then belayed to the aft port belaying pins rack at “17”. The letters actually refer to the size of blocks and thickness of line, but I’m using them to illustrate my question. How does the block “K” attach to the maintop? When the maintop was built there was no indication of needing a block or eye pin at the aft of the maintop (RHS below) although there are two small line running fore and aft that could be eyebolts with hindsight. Chris, I hope it’s ok to post a few small segments of plans on here? The manual suggest doesn’t mention any eyebolts here either, but there’s a photo in the manual which shows two eyebolts in that place where my messy yellow arrow points. I’m guessing that’s what I should be attaching a block to, but I don’t have the access to drill a hole and add an eyebolt and block anymore there as there’s so much rigging around it. Could I get away with adding a block to one of the stanchions at the rear of the maintop instead? I think I’ve worked out what should happen for this line, but not sure how I’ll actually be able to fix it! Any advice greatly appreciated. Many thanks Dan
  8. DB789
    Thanks Ron. Will do.
  9. DB789
    Thanks Glenn, much appreciated.
  10. DB789
    Thanks Chris, I’ll do that. Much appreciate the advice. Dan
  11. DB789
    Thanks Uwe. I’ve added the bowsprit rigging, fairly straightforward except there’s a PE ring with four smaller rigs attached to the rim that is at the end of the bowsprit. Being clumsy I managed to break off three of these rings. I’ve CA glued on three replacement rings but they’re not strong so each line goes through the rings and then is tied through the bowsprit rather than the ring. I’ve left some lines tied and unglued so I can add tension later if they go slack when other rigging is added. Also added the main boom and gaff. Much the same as on the fore and aft rigged vessels I’ve built. Onto the yards next I think. Is there a better sequence - start at the top and work down? I’m thinking of doing the main mast yards first and then moving to the fore mast. I’ve still to add most of the stays - I reckon it’s easier to add the yards before the stays? Any advice very welcome. Thanks!
  12. DB789
    Hi Glenn, I glad my log is of some use! I’m really enjoying building this one although I’ve slowed down as I’m rigging and making yards and spars, which for me is slow going. Adder should be an easy build for you after Indy, Eck’s racing through his build. Yours looks great, I look forward to following along. Best wishes Dan
  13. DB789
    An absolutely stunning model - congrats! I’ve really enjoyed following your build of her.
  14. DB789
    Shrouds and ratlines complete. I’ve attached the bowsprit too. Rigging the bowsprit next, then making and adding the spritsail yard.
  15. DB789
    Looking great. Think you’re going to overtake me at this rate!
  16. DB789
    Congrats - she looks super. Dan
  17. DB789
    Making some good progress on the ratlines, just the main topmast ratlines still to do. I have added the fore topgallant shrouds too. As always, plenty of room for improvement! Once the shrouds/ratlines are complete, I’ll fit and rig the bowsprit and spritsail yard. I’ll follow the build order in the instructions after this which suggests adding the yards, boom and gaff (all yet to be made). I’m a little worried they will be in the way when I add the stays, but I guess it’s the case vice versa too?
  18. DB789
    Hi Eck, your Adder is looking super, hope you’re enjoying building her as much as I am. I think that the last two posts were probably meant for your build log? Best wishes Dan
  19. DB789
    Andrew, so sorry to hear your news. Very glad to hear you’re on the mend. Dan
  20. DB789
    Futtock shrouds and topmast shrouds added. Still need to add futtock staves and catharpins to the topmast shrouds. Then onto ratlines followed by topgallant shrouds. There’s definitely work I need to do to get my knots and seizings tidier! Nice to see her start to take some “3D” shape above decks now. My next post may not be for a week or two as the ratlines will take a while and I may break up the monotony after doing one mast and fit out the bowsprit and make the spritsail yard. I haven’t made any of the spars or yards yet.
  21. DB789
    Great to see another Adder build. I’m thoroughly enjoying building her too. I’ll be following along.
  22. DB789
    She looks wonderful! Great build, thanks for sharing!
  23. DB789
    Chris, thanks so much for the advice. I will certainly follow that sequence. My deadeye lanyards are longer than the top of your range, but not hugely so. I’m happy with them albeit they’re not technically correct. I’ll make sure I get them shorter on my next build. I’m much more out of my comfort zone on the rigging so it takes me a lot more time than it really should. As I get to know the typical rigging layout on a square rigger it will get easier and I’m sure I’ll speed up. I much prefer building and fitting out the hull to the masts and rigging. Your plans couldn’t be clearer and I appreciate that Adder has a slightly simplified rigging plan compared to say Speedy which will really help me. Thanks again for another great kit.
  24. DB789
    Ron, thanks so much for the advice. I’ll certainly follow that sequence. I look forward to seeing your diorama.
  25. DB789
    Thank you all for the excellent advice. Gratefully received and followed. I’ve removed and replaced the shrouds on the foremast. All the shroud lanyards are a little longer than on Chris’s prototype which I’m sure has the realistic scale length, but they’re all now the same length and I don’t have the odd looking high deadeyes starboard on the foremast. I’m happy with that, the lanyards are no longer than I have on my Grecian and Alert kits, they just look it as the height of the maintop/foretop is much lower on the square rigged Adder than the two fore and aft rigged vessels. Next either to add ratlines (and catharpins) to the lower shrouds or add the topmast shrouds. Not sure which I’ll do first - or should? Ron - I look forward to seeing your Adder, mine is very much an “out of the box build” following the instructions and colour scheme. They’re such great kits from Vanguard that’s enough for me, but I really liked your interpretation of Grecian.

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