moreplovac
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Everything posted by moreplovac
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Version 2 of my small roping setup... It allows me to hide the ends of seizings under the breeching rope... the ends will be freeze with a drop of CA... Closeup... not quite sharp... One completed... All completed. And lets mount some armaments... Happy modelling...
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- phoenix
- master korabel
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Continue with the work on breeching rope.... Here is my little setup to make the length of the rope uniformed, pretty self-explanatory... Happy modelling..
- 275 replies
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- phoenix
- master korabel
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It it time to put some armaments on this ship... lets start with breeching ropes.. After rough measurements, i cut 12 ropes to the correct length... Then lets start rigging... In order to freeze breeching rope seizing, the best tool is modified glue extension; very tiny drops is all what is needed. My temporary work bench for close up works... Few completed... Ok, ok, no worries, you will all get your moustaches... Done with breeching ropes. Now it is time to make 24 eye bolts. I have done those before but don't like the thickness of them so decided to make new set. Happy modelling...
- 275 replies
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- phoenix
- master korabel
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3mm channel deadeyes and straps were installed. The installation process is the same as with 5mm, just 3mm will use custom made pins, out of 3mm copper wire. The location of channel deadeye was tested with a rope attached to the mast that was temporary inserted in the ship. The mast for this purpose is not the one that will actually be added to the ship; it is just a left over stick in the correct size and length... The channel deadeye/channel was put in position, the needle will mark the place for a pilot hole.. Strip will be glued and pin will be inserted in the hole. Pin was made out of 3mm copper wire, hammering one end to look like the semi-real pin.. The same process was done for rest of the strips, 2mm and 3mm. Next pins were first rounded and inserted in the position. Length of the pins is appr 6mm. All completed and touch up paint applied... Did not have a time to use my real camera so DOF is not quite appropriate... The layer of varnish will be applied to channels, etc... Happy modelling..
- 275 replies
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- phoenix
- master korabel
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5mm deadeyes were all installed; some touch up work is required to make it more presentable. Three pins were a bit rounded at the end... Small 4mm and 3mm deadeyes were made in the same way, painted with flat black and waiting for installation... Happy modelling...
- 275 replies
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- phoenix
- master korabel
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While i still investigate/testing other options to make the chainplate straps as they are presented on the above picture and to keep the momentum going, i decided to go with old, trusted way of making a straps - two wires soldered together. First, start with twisting the wire around object that has diameter slightly smaller than deadeyes.. Insert the deadeye.. Apply small amount of soldering paste.. Add solder, previously flattened... Solder it with a mini torch.. Make sure deadeye stay correctly and that strap is flat.. All of them are done, no extras... Clean them up with 1000 steel wool Color them with a flat black paint... The opposite end of the strip, was flattened a bit by squeezing it and a small hole was drilled thru. This hole is for a pin that will be used to hold the strip to the ship. Start installing them on the ship making sure they follow the rope line... Small touch up paint job will be required as well.. These are casualties from my attempts. Will use most of wires as pins in the future steps so it material is not quite wasted. Happy modelling..
- 275 replies
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- phoenix
- master korabel
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I am trying to make a chainplate strap for deadeyes as i dont quite like parts that are provided with kit; the way i like is this: but i was not able to achieve it; basically the build process will be: - make a circle by wrapping a wire around an item that has correct diameter; - solder the end of the circle; - squeeze it around in this case 5mm drill bit: - and it supposed to ended up like one on the top of the picture (of course more work will be required after...) But the challenge i faced is that every time i squeeze the wire, it breaks on the soldering area. No matter where i squeeze it to the correct form, it breaks on the soldering area... So i tried different type of wire, soldering paste and solder, different flame intensity but was not able to make it correct. Anyone facing the same challenge or it is just me? If you know of any good how-to pls point me to it... Cheers
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And these tiny items were installed; first, pilot hole was drilled, then simulated bolts were inserted into... during this process i lost 4 of them; they simply flew somewhere off my tweezers when i picked them up... Then i also installed top of the knight heads, after lots of sanding and forming... Happy modelling..
- 275 replies
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- phoenix
- master korabel
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The pins were installed into anchor's rode... a bit of a CA was applied to holes before... Cut extras and sanded... A layer of stain was applied... The ring were simulated with plastic sheet, 0.2mm thick and covered with black paint.. i could have used paper as well, but wanted to test the plastic. In one of the ship builder' videos i noticed that builder simulated bolts of the guns's breech eyebolts out of a piece of brass wire, 1mm thick. Not sure if this is historically accurate as i did not see any traces of it on the plan or instructions, but decided to do it as it appears to be nice addition to overall ship appearance. First, starting with poor-man lathe... Managed to reduce the wire using files of different types.. I will cut this piece so will have two for one cannon... The length is 0.5mm And after about a hour, all done... i have two extras, just in case... Happy modelling..
- 275 replies
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- phoenix
- master korabel
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Caboose pipe was assembled and installed on the ship, after being blackened and polished... Ship anchors were attacked next. The rings were made of 0.6mm wire. The rods were removed from the frame.. There was a small gap between rod and anchor i have filled with a small piece of wood... The anchor was glued to rod and rod was sanded to remove laser burns. Then the ring was inserted into anchor and glued to stay in place. Then i started to wind a thread around the ring, and periodically fix it with a glue.. Happy modelling..
- 275 replies
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- phoenix
- master korabel
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Belaying pin racks installed.. Pins will be dropped in later but every pin needs to be cleaned of a burr that was left on the bottom... no a big deal just it will be visible if not removed.. The windlass was installed first by testing its position and drilling two holes for pins that will be "holding" it to the deck.. mounted on the deck afterwards. It is slightly difficult to remove extra wire from simulated pin once windlass is in position so i tried to push the wire in as much as possible and still to have some amount sticking out for visibility. The windlass was put in position after the ship bell was mounted as well since it has to have correct position on the deck. So, now to the bell. This part was really interesting. I wanted to actually have a fully workable bell (with a sound) but it was not possible due to the nature of simulated bell. Well, it is actually simulating... To make it as close as possible as a real bell, i added a dinger, made out of the wire that goes thru the top of the bell and into the wooden part. The end of this wire was twisted and squeezed in attempt to simulate a dinger as close as possible. With this scale appears to be simulating nicely.. Then the axel was inserted; since i already have a bell handle going thru the yoke, was unable to insert an axel all the way thru so i cut the axle in two pieces. Before that, proper hole was drilled all the way thru the yoke and bell rocker. Then the bell was inserted and axle was pushed thru one side of the yoke.. Same was done for the other side. And bell functionality was tested, without sound... The extra wire from axle was removed and ends were finished... The completed bell looks like this: It will go on the ship next.. For fun, i started inserting pins into racks... Happy modelling..
- 275 replies
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- phoenix
- master korabel
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The work on the ship continues with belaying pin rack... simply to assembly, the rack will be secured with two pins.. Today i will try danish oil as an finish, after a coat of nature stain and golden oak stain was applied.. And the windlass is next... All parts for windlass are in one small plastic bag, very convenient and safe since they are very fragile.. lots of staining, cutting, sanding, fitting... This is different approach in building a windlass when i compare it with my Sultana build, which was all almost from scratch.. For dark wood i used dark oak stain, wanted to see if i can get a contrast between "moving" windlass parts and stationary parts.. All parts are easy to remove and required just a bit of sanding, very much like plastic plane models from well known manufacturers.. The toothpick is here to keep all parts together.. Happy modelling...
- 275 replies
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- phoenix
- master korabel
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More eyebolts needed, very simple process... Blackened and polished. On the ship... The kit instructions as well as ship plans do not call for binnacle stays but kit does include it so let put it on the deck. Assembly went fine, all parts are good and easy to put together.... I decided to replace the hand rail ropes i installed lately; the cotton colour (beige) did not quite fit the ship to my liking so i soak ropes in dark brown textile paint for about 3 minutes, and installed on the ship as hand rails as well as ropes that tie binnacle to the ship. Happy modelling..
- 275 replies
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- phoenix
- master korabel
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Here is 2hrs video, covering the whole ship...
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I am pretty sure none of us here were able to enjoy Titanic in real, full potentials but here is a virtual tour of it. It will soon become a computer game but for time being, enjoy the really awesome graphics.. https://youtu.be/Fk1wsEY0HGI
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Started to work on assembly the ship's wheel.. All parts removed from the frame, the wheel' axle ends were rounded a bit. I wanted to replace the veneer ring with a brass one but i am unable to make one without lathe. So the ring was painted in silver instead. My rope box was pulled out, some older rope ends were used for wheel rope.. And mounted on the ship... During wheel assembly, there was a need to make up few glue dispensers... i cannot take credit for this one but it is very useful when it is time to reach some parts that are very small or narrow. The extension is made of Q-Tips but they have to have plastic handle. The stick is then put above the heat source and slowly stretched to correct length... Very useful and affordable. Then i made a hand ropes. For this i am going to use a crochet rope to test its usage... All seizing are simulated with strangle knot. And completed.. I will see how these hand ropes colour blends with the rest of the ropes and if they are sticking unusually out, will either colour them or replace with other ropes... Then i installed keel block for a ship boat... Just testing... The eye bolts were painted in primer first and a layer of black paint was applied after primer was dry... These will be installed around masts on the deck.. Happy modelling..
- 275 replies
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- phoenix
- master korabel
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The scuppers are completed. A bit of a touch up is required but overall i am pleased with the result. Happy modelling..
- 275 replies
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- phoenix
- master korabel
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I have received brass pipes i will be using to make scuppers; they are 3cm in length and 2,3,4mm in diameter.. I will be using 2mm. First i tried this approach: slide in a pipe into drilled hole, using pencil mark the deck shape which shows brass to be removed; remove pipe, sand the area and stick it in... From the outer end, cut the reminder of pipe, fill empty space around the pipe and sand it.. There will be a bit of a touch up painting needed. I see the light.... Then i deceived to take different approach since i did not like lots of wood filler in use. Smaller diameter hole, the pipe was hammered thru (of course in very controlled manner) and shape the sticking side of the pipe.. With a less damage to the structure this ended up being better approach... The hole was a bit wider and needed to be filled with piece of wood and CA glue to keep all in place... This approach was used on all other scuppers, hopefully they will not be that better looking than the first one, in which case i need to replace it... Happy modelling...
- 275 replies
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- phoenix
- master korabel
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Just to correct myself, those nice ship parts i kept calling blocks are actually cleats.. Still learning english nautical terms... Happy modelling..
- 275 replies
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- phoenix
- master korabel
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Today i continue with block installation; drilling a pilot hole in already completed inner bulwark was a bit of a challenge. A drip of carpenter' glue was added on block and block inserted in the pilot hole. Clamp helped with making sure block stays in the right position. Also, i have drilled holes and inserted pins, more decorative than actual functional actually.. Wanted to round the visible end of the pin but was not able to do so when items are on the ship. Next time, make sure you do it before mounting, just a mental note to myself.. Happy modelling...
- 275 replies
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- phoenix
- master korabel
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Continue with work on blocks; there are appr 20+ blocks needed, with a pin inserted into each block. From here ..... to here... Removing them all from the frames and cutting extras.. Sanding the pin and removing laser cut burns.. The pins were cut from the wire provided in the kit.. Blocks, pins, blocks with inserted pins and completed block. Next is to clean laser burns from the sides.. The pins were inserted in all blocks, now i need to sand the laser burns at the sides of each block.. Happy modelling..
- 275 replies
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- phoenix
- master korabel
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Stairs completed and glued to the ship.. Then i lightly sanded all handrails and filled up some openings between handrail planks by putting a small amount of glue and sanding wood. This will fill up all wholes and uneven surfaces. Then i made four small eyebolts that will be holding the rope-type handrails on stairs. Kit provides them but they dont looks quite nice so i decided to made few. the wire is 0.3mm and the hole diameter is 0.7mm. The pilot hole were drilled and eyebolts, with a small amount of glue, were inserted in.. Then i installed 10 bow bitts and painted them in flat black. While having a black paint out, i did few touchups as well.. Happy modelling...
- 275 replies
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- phoenix
- master korabel
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Ending up with the last piece of handrails.... First a short bath in a water, then twisting it to correct position with a help from little dudes.. Leaving it in position to dry for tomorrow' final gluing.. Stairs are next. This part is very easy to build comparing with other models where you actually have to do some math and correctly position all steps. With this kit all is already done for you, almost like some Revell's plastic kit models, where you cut pieces from the frame, sand them a bit and glue itno position.. Glue is applied while parts are still on the frame.. Then glue another part on... Once it is dried (and make sure it is really dried), cut if off and start assembly. Don't worry about sanding of extra wood, it will be done after stairs are assembled. The steps slides in with no problem. Now just sand stairs and you are ready to go.. Happy modelling.
- 275 replies
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- phoenix
- master korabel
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The work continues assembling the quarter deck railing.. The process requires that all holes for racks are cleaned so the racks can fit correctly and in proper angle. Lots of testing and trial until everything was fitting properly.. The reminder of fencing is pretty much the same; first i drilled the holes... .. and shaped the fencing rack... The handrail was assembled in two parts: first i put on one piece of handrail that kind of holds all together... .. and at this time i need to sand all sticking parts so the second part of handrail will sit flush. Happy modelling..
- 275 replies
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- phoenix
- master korabel
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Next i am attaching the ladder; rubber is here to align the ladder's rungs... On the instruction pictures i see some other parts of the ladder that i cannot locate in my kit parts so i have to make my own from some scrap wood..... Then i put in a cover at the base of the masts as well as a rings.. Testing fittings.. and testing position with mast inserted to make sure it fits correctly.. The cover of stain and all done for today.. Happy modelling..
- 275 replies
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- phoenix
- master korabel
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