Ferrus Manus
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It's also obvious that this kit is based on the Mayflower II replica, which is inaccurate in multiple ways. -
Awesome job, Bill! Aren't you not doing sails for this one?
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Yes, the rails will be on the inside of the bulwarks. This is the exact same thing you did on your Great Harry. All we know about the Mayflower is that she existed in 1609, but realistically, she was probably significantly older. I believe it was one of the major supporting timbers that cracked, causing the upper deck to buckle. The voyage was able to continue only because one of the passengers had brought an iron screw with them, and the crew was able to fix the structural damage.
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This is the ship's beakhead: Here's a detailed view of the interior of the beakhead area: The uprights that exist on the ship naturally gave me an idea. This is 1620, right? Pins had yet to come into use on English ships. The earliest known use of pins and pinrails is at least a century later, if not more. The idea being that i could simply glue multiple "rails" onto the sides of the ship, solving my belaying problems. For more information and a better explanation of what's happening here, look at Baker's Pelican build.
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Several more bulkheads are painted, put in place, and the forecastle and quarter decks. That's when i discovered an issue. I know this kit isn't of the best quality, but what the hell!? Both the bulkhead and the deck are perfectly symmetrical and lined up perfectly. SOAB
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The hull is being glued together in this picture. The aft transom is also glued into place.
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The painting has progressed significantly today. The outer hull halves are entirely painted, including the details. Also painted is the main deck, which i was surprised to see looks a bit like real wood. I have a question regarding the interior painting of the hull. This is the hull interior, painted but not weathered. Should i paint the uprights brown, tan, or keep them the same color? Do we know what the color of the interior paintwork might have looked like?
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Next update. What i wish they had done would be to mold the channels as separate pieces, for ease of painting. I have never had a model with channels molded onto the hull. It would probably be fine if it were anything other than an English galleon, due to the painting. All things considered, i think it's pretty good. The port side should go faster, because now i know what i want everything to look like. That should streamline the process some. I will do the interiors and weathering for both at the same time to preserve uniformity.
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You beat me to it! That's what i do as well.
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Great job, Bill!!
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Furthermore: for the most part, if not without exception, eyebolts are for the standing end of lines and are not for use as belaying points. If any set of instructions tells you to do so, i would take that with considerable suspicion.
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I have never seen a topsail halyard with a fall leading from the lower block, and i don't know if they even exist. What my instinct (having rigged several galleons) was, was to have you make a becket on the bottom of the upper block to start the fall.
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The hellerism here isn't the incorrect location of the origin and end of the line, but rather the incorrect rigging of the tackle itself.
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Refer to your book about that. I'm guessing the kit instructions might very well be right.
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Nice job on the wood deck, and getting it to fit properly!
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The average experience.
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Also, when you belay the line, you should really be belaying it on a cleat, pin, or rail, even if you have to make one yourself. Eyebolt a5 is for the hook on the block.
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The ones on the channel are likely all supposed to be for fish tackles.
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The outer half of the starboard side of the hull is mostly done, with the exceptions of the white anti fouling paint, channels, gunport lid hinges, and the weathering.
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The "Hellerism" here, is that the fall for the tackle is incorrectly wrapped around a block instead of properly belayed.
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The way the tackle is set up is incorrect and should not be rigged. 1052 should actually be an eyebolt near the end of the fore channel on either the bulwark itself or slightly inside. The tackle itself should fall to a eyebolt near the same place on the other side of the ship, and the fall for the tackle should be belayed on a pin (or cleat or rail) near or on the bulkhead directly fore or aft of the tackle itself. A5 and A6 might actually be the eyebolts in question. Or so i understand.
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We're a short way up the hull with the paintwork on the stbd side. Some of the running strakes will be banded, as in the box art, at one inch intervals. The base decorations for the stbd side may or may not be done tonight, probably not. Tomorrow is already an early morning. I will show you as much as i get done tonight.
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First things first, painting. I want to give you all (and especially Kirill) some insight into how i paint. The very first thing i did with both hull halves was to paint everything above the first wale a sort of beige color: This will serve as the base for the future paint that will go on the upper half of the ship. I am doing a good portion of this in line with the box art painting, however, i will likely change some things and keep others.
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