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Ferrus Manus
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Everything posted by Ferrus Manus
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Next update. What i wish they had done would be to mold the channels as separate pieces, for ease of painting. I have never had a model with channels molded onto the hull. It would probably be fine if it were anything other than an English galleon, due to the painting. All things considered, i think it's pretty good. The port side should go faster, because now i know what i want everything to look like. That should streamline the process some. I will do the interiors and weathering for both at the same time to preserve uniformity.
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You beat me to it! That's what i do as well.
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Great job, Bill!!
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Furthermore: for the most part, if not without exception, eyebolts are for the standing end of lines and are not for use as belaying points. If any set of instructions tells you to do so, i would take that with considerable suspicion.
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I have never seen a topsail halyard with a fall leading from the lower block, and i don't know if they even exist. What my instinct (having rigged several galleons) was, was to have you make a becket on the bottom of the upper block to start the fall.
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The hellerism here isn't the incorrect location of the origin and end of the line, but rather the incorrect rigging of the tackle itself.
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Refer to your book about that. I'm guessing the kit instructions might very well be right.
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Nice job on the wood deck, and getting it to fit properly!
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The average experience.
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Also, when you belay the line, you should really be belaying it on a cleat, pin, or rail, even if you have to make one yourself. Eyebolt a5 is for the hook on the block.
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The ones on the channel are likely all supposed to be for fish tackles.
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The outer half of the starboard side of the hull is mostly done, with the exceptions of the white anti fouling paint, channels, gunport lid hinges, and the weathering.
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The "Hellerism" here, is that the fall for the tackle is incorrectly wrapped around a block instead of properly belayed.
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The way the tackle is set up is incorrect and should not be rigged. 1052 should actually be an eyebolt near the end of the fore channel on either the bulwark itself or slightly inside. The tackle itself should fall to a eyebolt near the same place on the other side of the ship, and the fall for the tackle should be belayed on a pin (or cleat or rail) near or on the bulkhead directly fore or aft of the tackle itself. A5 and A6 might actually be the eyebolts in question. Or so i understand.
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We're a short way up the hull with the paintwork on the stbd side. Some of the running strakes will be banded, as in the box art, at one inch intervals. The base decorations for the stbd side may or may not be done tonight, probably not. Tomorrow is already an early morning. I will show you as much as i get done tonight.
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First things first, painting. I want to give you all (and especially Kirill) some insight into how i paint. The very first thing i did with both hull halves was to paint everything above the first wale a sort of beige color: This will serve as the base for the future paint that will go on the upper half of the ship. I am doing a good portion of this in line with the box art painting, however, i will likely change some things and keep others.
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The stated scale is, i think, 1/168. Not 1/600.
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Give 'em the old pirate treatment. Maybe if gibbeting was still around, IP theft wouldn't be an issue. 🤣
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There's quite the story behind this one. This is a model I have walked past for years at my local hobby shop, before this event took place. I have a great uncle who lives in Reno Nevada that i rarely get to see. Well, my dad and his girlfriend went to see him yesterday, and i got to talk to him on the phone. He said he wanted me to build a ship for him to display at his house, and this is the story thereof. I was able to go to the model shop a few hours ago and pick this up. Another comment: The stated scale of the ship (1/150) is laughably inaccurate. This replica of a ~100 foot ship builds to around 19 inches. A 1/150 model of said ship would build to about 9 inches. The math computes to a scale of about 1/64, and to back that up, this is actually the same mold as the 1/64 Revell mayflower. I am impressed by the size, which i consider purely a canvas for extra detail that's impossible to put onto a smaller scale ship. As for painting, I will likely base the majority of the paintwork, especially the upper paintwork, on the box art as well as my Golden Hinde. Ready? Here we go!
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ZHL are known pirates. There is NO forgiveness or support for known pirates, whether the kit itself is pirated or not. Buy from CAF, because ZHL probably stole it from them. The US patent office isn't doing its job.
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I guess i had simply failed to understand what you had planned to do.
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