Ferrus Manus
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Everything posted by Ferrus Manus
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Granted, this particular model has many modern elements to it. However, the mast is about the same thickness as what we see on a contemporary artwork, shown here:- 134 replies
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- sea of galilee boat
- SE Miller
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With as shallow a draft as the boat has, the thick mast could potentially make it top-heavy. The rigging is designed to take the strain of the wind in the sail, so the mast does not have to be that thick. Take a look at another type of ship from around this time-period: This is the same type of vessel that ferried the Apostle Paul to Rome. Notice how spindly the mast is on this one. That is possible because the enormous backstay takes almost the entirety of the strain of the wind pushing on the sail. These ships appear on mosaics frequently.
- 134 replies
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- sea of galilee boat
- SE Miller
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I think it needs to be a little bit thinner. However, the height is okay. I love how his name is Peter! Someone get him a fishing net.
- 134 replies
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- 2
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- sea of galilee boat
- SE Miller
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The rudder that they gave me in the kit looks a bit sad. Let's change that! First order of business was to drill two holes in the rudder: the smaller one at the bottom is for the uphaul, and the larger one in the middle is to replace the plastic attachment with something more accurate. Now, these rudders were not, actually, attached with regular rope. The rope would, upon getting wet, weaken and stretch. So, they used withies (a flexible piece of green wood). However, i do not have a withy. However, tarred rope would not have the issues regular hemp would upon contact with water. So, that is what i did. Also, the tiller was looking pretty half-assed. So, i drilled a hole and made a new one. Here is the finished rudder: Now, the sharp-eyed folks will notice the aft raised portion of the deck lying in the background. Notice the three holes in it. These are in lieu of an actual frame to connect the rudder rope to. Even better, i can manually adjust it using tweezers! I was disappointed in the fact that i had to install it now instead of being able to save it for the very end. However, the fact that we have now replaced all the plastic attachment points with rope, means that we can abuse the crap out of it for the rest of the build and nothing will snap. I just need to make some kind of a wedge out of card.
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Alright, guys. This is the finalized paint job for the hull. Yes, there still are a couple more details.
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I cut some more parts from card: the extended stem and stern posts, and the stanchions for one of the ladders.
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Also, in my opinion, the guy climbing up the backstay in the Winchelsea image is just bad seamanship. Why not unfurl the yard while it's resting on the deck? Also, why put unnecessary strain on the rigging by climbing it? Why, also, make the lives of the people hauling on the windlass harder by, presumably, sitting on the yard? And if you fall? Well, now your ship has one less man to operate it, and your mates have to find a new crew member.
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Okay, as much as i love the date "1197", i will change it.
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Also seriously? I thought the nefs were in use since at least the mid 12th century. If not nefs, then what? Hulks? Round-ships? Iowa-class battleships?
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I've painted the mast step already. Yes, it pains me not to be able to achieve total historical accuracy as well. This is why i said before, that this is something that needs to be a total scratchbuild.
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Already working on one! It's a nef and it's in pre-1500 kit logs.
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I also agree with your comment about the freeboard. This is a ship that really needs to be a complete scratch build, which is why i begrudgingly accepted the fact that the longship-turned-nef would not bear anything more than a passing resemblance to the real thing.
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Thank you for the suggestion. However, i don't think that would be possible for this particular iteration, as i am only scratchbuilding the castles. Like i previously mentioned, this build is not intended to be anything major. However, i would like to keep getting suggestions, because some of them might be possible even given the circumstances. We have never seen the deck of a nef. That being said, we do know where the deck would have been due to the through timbers, which i will fabricate out of card.
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I saw those on someone else's build. I didn't know ancient shipbuilding techniques existed as late as the middle of the 20th century.
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I still don't think the whole "framing buildup" will work. I can solve the "too low deck" issue by just plunking cargo on the deck. plus, it would look cool and make the ship look used.
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When i end up gluing the supports on the ship, i will use the measurements to make the framing to support the planks.
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I know you were typing before i revised my post. Check for results. Thanks for the advice!
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Okay, here are some of the supporting timbers for the sterncastle. Half decent? I will likely make the planks with strips of cardboard.
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I guess no beefing up of the ship's sides. Sorry.
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...And that's the problem with cardboard. I took some thin cardstock, but the scissors i had were not able to make clean cuts. I was going to use that as a framing material. Maybe this project is stupid. How do you cut polystyrene card. Whenever i cut it, it turns out like a mangled mess, every time. Even with a brand new blade. Mine is Evergreen 1/16 inch card. What frustrates me is i can't cut anything right. What the hell do i do??
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Ya know, someday, i might buy another copy of this kit and actually go full send on it. Wood decks, wood frames, wood castles, wood everything other than the hull planks.
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Mind you, Steven, you're talking about a century later than this vessel. The Holy Ghost is a ship from the late 12th century, not late 13th. 200 years is still 200 years. However, without any concrete evidence available, i will probably find myself keeping the deck mostly intact, plus the additions of ringbolts for the removable planks, a capstan, and a piece for the halyard. I would refer you back to post #3. However, the modifications i believe i could easily do, i will at least attempt. Anyway... This is only a teeny tiny dip into the pool of scratchbuilding. Change of plans with the castles: Both of them will be in the shape of a trapezoid, not a triangle. Also, the supports will be almost, if not completely, vertical. Please do not go away. I thoroughly enjoy you and your suggestions, and it isn't my fault that some of them are simply impossible given my current constraints. I'm in college now, and i don't have the time for a major project, unfortunately. When i truly get around to starting the Senora Fielden, you will truly have the time of your life. I can likely build up the sides of the ship, however, by putting actual supports between the knees, thereby closing up the oar-holes and making their puttying easier.
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So the bottom attachment (rope, withy, whatever) would be regularly kept loose enough to allow for sideways motion?
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It seems like a rudder would take at least two men to operate: one on the tiller, and one to continually loosen or tighten the bottom (or top?) attachment to allow the rudder to move horizontally.
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