Ferrus Manus
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Everything posted by Ferrus Manus
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Because it's the media. They always suck. This is a real ROV photo of the galleon:
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Personally, the legal battle is interesting too. I think the treasure on the ship should stay at the bottom of the sea along with the 600 men who died with it. Every shipwreck is also a mass grave, and should be treated like one. I find it disgusting that all anyone cares about is who the loot belongs to. Not even the historical and research value is considered. I also can't wait for them to find the Flor de la Mar, a Portuguese carrack loaded with billions of dollars of treasure that lies off the coast of Malaysia.
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When a sail is furled, all the associated rigging stays on the sail.- 1,508 replies
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I say keep the courses furled, fly the topsails, and partially unfurl the topgallants. That would look really cool. Or perhaps the other way around, with courses partially furled, topsails flown, and topgallants furled.
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This is the finished fore knighthead and halyard block, with the rigging. The reason for the brass pin is that if this comes loose at any point, there's no way to go in and fix it.
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This is a replica of a Dutch galleon, i believe the Halve Maen.
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These are the knightheads the kit provided me with. I expected this. These "knightheads" are so worthless i might as well not even take them off the sprue. Remember my Golden Hinde? If not, go check out the build and how i dealt with the knightheads. Anyways, since then my standards have improved greatly, and i dared myself to do better. This is a rough iteration of the new fore knighthead. This will be painted brown and have the excess plastic cleaned off. It has 3 sheaves for the fore halyard.
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This is the detailed view of the forecastle bulwarks, with the belaying rails glued on. The belaying rails are strips of painted cardboard, and can each reasonably belay about 15 lines apiece.
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It's also obvious that this kit is based on the Mayflower II replica, which is inaccurate in multiple ways.
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Awesome job, Bill! Aren't you not doing sails for this one?
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Yes, the rails will be on the inside of the bulwarks. This is the exact same thing you did on your Great Harry. All we know about the Mayflower is that she existed in 1609, but realistically, she was probably significantly older. I believe it was one of the major supporting timbers that cracked, causing the upper deck to buckle. The voyage was able to continue only because one of the passengers had brought an iron screw with them, and the crew was able to fix the structural damage.
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This is the ship's beakhead: Here's a detailed view of the interior of the beakhead area: The uprights that exist on the ship naturally gave me an idea. This is 1620, right? Pins had yet to come into use on English ships. The earliest known use of pins and pinrails is at least a century later, if not more. The idea being that i could simply glue multiple "rails" onto the sides of the ship, solving my belaying problems. For more information and a better explanation of what's happening here, look at Baker's Pelican build.
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Several more bulkheads are painted, put in place, and the forecastle and quarter decks. That's when i discovered an issue. I know this kit isn't of the best quality, but what the hell!? Both the bulkhead and the deck are perfectly symmetrical and lined up perfectly. SOAB
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The hull is being glued together in this picture. The aft transom is also glued into place.
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The painting has progressed significantly today. The outer hull halves are entirely painted, including the details. Also painted is the main deck, which i was surprised to see looks a bit like real wood. I have a question regarding the interior painting of the hull. This is the hull interior, painted but not weathered. Should i paint the uprights brown, tan, or keep them the same color? Do we know what the color of the interior paintwork might have looked like?
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Next update. What i wish they had done would be to mold the channels as separate pieces, for ease of painting. I have never had a model with channels molded onto the hull. It would probably be fine if it were anything other than an English galleon, due to the painting. All things considered, i think it's pretty good. The port side should go faster, because now i know what i want everything to look like. That should streamline the process some. I will do the interiors and weathering for both at the same time to preserve uniformity.
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You beat me to it! That's what i do as well.
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Great job, Bill!!
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Furthermore: for the most part, if not without exception, eyebolts are for the standing end of lines and are not for use as belaying points. If any set of instructions tells you to do so, i would take that with considerable suspicion.
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I have never seen a topsail halyard with a fall leading from the lower block, and i don't know if they even exist. What my instinct (having rigged several galleons) was, was to have you make a becket on the bottom of the upper block to start the fall.
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The hellerism here isn't the incorrect location of the origin and end of the line, but rather the incorrect rigging of the tackle itself.
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Refer to your book about that. I'm guessing the kit instructions might very well be right.
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Nice job on the wood deck, and getting it to fit properly!
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