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allanyed

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Everything posted by allanyed

  1. allanyed
    Hi TMJ, I love the books you mention, but do not diminish the advantages of using contemporary information to confirm or correct modern sources. The AOS series is nice to use as a reference at times but is not without mistakes. The two sites in post #2 should alleviate an excess use of time If you don't mind the low res version- https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-80028 will take you right to the cross section drawing of Boyne. I think the high res is better to see how this was all done if you use the Wiki site mentioned above but then again I have old eyes so prefer the higher res plans.😀 Allan
  2. allanyed
    TMJ Which reference books are you referring to? It depends on what period your model is depicting. Iron knees were not used until late in the 18th century so would not have been on Victory when she was launched. If it is from well after she was launched and after her various rebuilds, there would likely have been Roberts iron plate knees used in combination with or possibly in place of timber or possibly later iron plate knees without the side arm. Have you studied any contemporary cross section drawings at RMG Collections or the high res drawings on the WikiCommons site? They show the braces in two views not just the cross section so you can see how they are set up. The drawings of Boyne 1810 and Union 1811 on the Wiki site show the iron knees very clearly as they can be seen in high resolution. For this high res version go to the Wiki website https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Ship_plans_of_the_Royal_Museums_Greenwich and scroll to Boyne 1810 on page 1, row 9, third drawing from the left. For a low res version of the same drawing enter ZAZ0237 in the search box the RMG Collections site. https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections Allan
  3. allanyed
    Hard to tell from that resolution, but it looks right Mr. Srenner Allan
  4. allanyed
    Rings and loops are in place. Allan
  5. allanyed
    When there is no super strength required I like to use Solder It paste as it has a melt point of 450F versus over 1200F so your idea should work well. Thanks Roger.
  6. allanyed
    Druxey, Lord knows I have had joints that would not hold because of contamination from fingers, so your point is well taken. Now I will rub my finger on my nose for some oil then apply it to the mandrel before soldering. Easy enough to give it a try the next go around in making these. Thank you. Jack The problem with these ceramic tubes is that they only come in specific sizes. With several gun carriage sizes on many ships and all the scales we use, finding the right size might not be possible for every/any case. I did find a video just now showing turning ceramic on a lathe, so the problem of a fixed number of diameters goes away. A relatively thick ceramic rod turned down for a quarter inch on the end to whatever diameter is needed might just work. Worth a try down the road. Thanks Allan
  7. allanyed
    Based on the 1719 Establishment the length on the gun deck was measured from the rabbet of the stem to the rabbet of the stern post. The Ship builder's Repository of 1788 goes further in describing this as from the aft side of the rabbet of the stem to the forward side of the rabbet of the stern post. The 1719 Establishment length of the gun deck for a 20 gun ship was 105 feet so pretty much the same as your metric figure. At scale that is 12.6 inches. Cabins were never not part of figuring ship measurements. Allan
  8. allanyed
    Lynch pins installed and blackened and axletree hoops are in place. The hoops are made from black construction paper. At 1:12 I would give a try at using copper for the hoops, but at 1:24 I failed miserably at my attempts. I might give it another try even at 1:24 in the future but would turn a piece of noncombustible material to the axletree diameter and then wrap a softened piece of copper (or brass) and silver solder it while on the rod. I have no idea if this idea would work or what material to use for the rod so the silver solder would not stick to it.
  9. allanyed
    Thanks Druxey. I did find 40 links per inch brass that our local hobby shop said they can order as well. Thanks again! Thanks Roger. The only problem that may arise is that there are only so many IDs of tubing compared to drill bit sizes to drill the hole in the end of a piece of rod. This can be done without a lathe, but I admit using a lathe is easier. Allan
  10. allanyed
    The many reasons for staying away from used kits for a beginner like yourself are well stated above but you may get lucky like some others have. The above statement is possibly the very best advice in this string. You will learn proper techniques and good habits before moving on to more complex kits or scratch building. Allan
  11. allanyed
    I made the lynch pins from copper sheet then forced into place before blackening as the blackening can be scraped off during this somewhat rough handling. Once in place diluted liver of sulfur is used to blacken them. Allan
  12. allanyed
    Many kit makers supply walnut-like wood that is very open grained and looks out of scale even at 1:48. There are more, but these come to mind: Castello box, Swiss pear, bass, and Alaskan cedar are all good choices as they have a tighter grain. Allan
  13. allanyed
    With only a few seats of ease for a crew of hundreds, I believe you are correct in that buckets were a commonly used item for seasickness as well as defecation. There were also pissdales for urinating. Allan
  14. allanyed
    Pre-rigging the carriages is a really clever idea. I do think the blocks are backwards though and the training tackle blocks as well as the running out tackle blocks would be a single and a double for 32 pounders and two singles for smaller guns. (The History of English Sea Ordnance 1523-1875, Volume II, page 386.) Allan
  15. allanyed
    Great article, thank you for posting this. Figure 7 makes it a little unnerving regarding the use of even contemporary plans for a scratch build or designing a kit, unless the modeler can find as-built drawings. Allan
  16. allanyed
    I would love to read more about this, could please post your source? From what I have read by historian Markus Rediker he indicates that pirate ships were well organized and worked more as a democracy and team. with councils rather than having a captain fully in charge except in time of battle. As they were working more as a team I would think they would not be keen on some team member fouling the ship unnecessarily. Allan
  17. allanyed
    Welcome to MSW Kojabov. Hope to see you post an introduction in the new members section. Allan
  18. allanyed
    Cap squares are done, in place, and functional. Making a retainer wedge will be easy but finding small enough chain even at 1:24 scale is tough. For smaller scales, something other than chain would be needed and I wonder if any of the members have tried to include them or just leave them off altogether as I have done when working on smaller scales. Allan
  19. allanyed
    Thanks Bob!
  20. allanyed
    Dean, You make a great point. I just went through my photos of contemporary models at Preble Hall. I found only one model that had deck planks that look to have caulking lines. None of the others appear to have been treated to the application of darkened lines or the use of trunnels. Going further, I do not recall ever seeing a contemporary or modern model where the hull planks are caulked. Makes me wonder why this treatment of only deck planks on models ever got started. Regarding trunnels I can find only find two of the many models at Preble Hall where the use of trunnels in the hull is obvious, and none of the models have trunnels in the deck planks. So far I cannot find any pictures of a contemporary model where there are obvious trunnels in the deck planks. Allan
  21. allanyed
    Sorry for the miscommunication Bob, I was referring to deck planking not hull planking. Allan
  22. allanyed
    Actually I find chopsticks or pieces from bamboo in my sister and brother-in- law's yard to work really well. The former is easier to find for most people😀
  23. allanyed
    I don't use CA but for PVA wipe away excess wet glue with a wet paper towel and scraper to minimize any residual glue that remains. If some remains and dries, which will happen, place a paper towel or rag that is soaked with alcohol, acetone, or vinegar on the glue for a few minutes, then scrape clean. Allan
  24. allanyed
    Hi Erik Many countries don't use prefixes. Imperial German Navy uses SMS (Seiner Majestät Schiff German: "His Majesty's Ship" ) prefixes, but the German under Third Reich did not. Similarly the French do not use a prefix. They do have an informal “FS” or “FNS” when jointly operating with NATO or other nation's navies. Japan only uses the JS or IJS prefixes when operating with or communicating with foreign Navies. Allan
  25. allanyed
    Try making a sample and see how it looks. Do you, or others here know what the appropriate width of caulking would be at full scale? Allan

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