allanyed
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Everything posted by allanyed
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Lately I have taken a lot of interest in cannon from the Pitt pattern and Brown pattern era up to and including the Blomefield pattern era. For a change of pace I decided to do a little project building an Armstrong Frederick 24 pounder circa 1760-1790. First up was to make drawings of the cannon and the carriage. The carriage drawing was printed on label paper and a copy on regular bond as well. The PDF is much clearer than the jpg below so I have attached it as well. Carriage and cannon Parts ID.PDF The brackets (or cheeks) were first up. Castello is used for the carriage, but any tight grained species would work. A slat of appropriate thickness was cut and thickness sanded, then cut in two to make a sandwich. A few dots of PVA just outside the periphery of the brackets was used to hold the two pieces together. The bracket drawing on the label paper was then cut and adhered to the wooden sandwich. The brackets were cut out but not the mortises for the axles nor the half holes for the trunnions as the brackets will not be sitting parallel to each other. Allan
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Thinking things through: Victorys bobstays
allanyed replied to dafi's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
A picture of the stern of the model in post # 1 I agree, but the plans bring up a question for me regarding number of guns. There are 15 gun ports on the lower gun deck, 15 on the middle gun deck, 15 on the upper deck, 8 on the QD and 3 on the forecastle. This yields a count of 112 guns, but, are carronades on the QD and FC counted in the number of guns? The plans for the Boyne and Union of 1811 show 15, 15, 15, 7, and 2 gun ports for a total 0f 108 gun ports. Allan
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What kind of metal? My personal favorite for brass is no longer made so I have gone to Birchwood Casey brass black and better still is copper instead of brass and liver of sulfur. The latter can be applied with a small brush after the part is secured in place. Dilute the LoS, apply, then rinse with clean water, and it does not discolor surrounding wood. No matter the metal, it needs to be thoroughly clean. An acid bath using Sparex or similar product followed by a good acetone and then water rinse works Handle with gloves, tweezers, or pliers to keep body oils off the parts before blackening. Allan
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Hi Martin Sorry if I am dense on this, but what is a lower gunport strip? It sounds like a strake under the gunports but the external planking did not follow the line of the gun ports as discussed earlier so I am at a loss. I am basing this on British contemporary planking expansion plans at RMG and now wonder if Spanish ships like Montanes might be different. Thanks Allan
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You can find a number of photos of pieces of iron ballast recovered from wrecks on the internet. Not to be confused with modern pieces which turn up in a search as well. One example after a quick search is below from HM bark Endeavour when she dumped guns. stove and a lot of her ballast to refloat after running aground in 1770. The size of this block is 36" X 6" X 6.3" and weighs 300 pounds. Allan
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Glue for second planking
allanyed replied to Ian K B's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Hi Ian, Wood is wood is wood (except oily stuff like Brazilian red wood for example) so yellow carpenter's PVA just like you would use on any planking is commonly used. Some prefer CA but in either case shape the planks by spiling or via the method many successfully use as shown on the videos by Chuck Passaro, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KCWooJ1o3cM PVA and a little finger pressure for 30 seconds works fine without clamps most of the time if the planks are pre-shaped properly. What ship are you building? Picture below of correct planking that has been tapered and incorrect planking. Planks should all end at the rabbet, not come to a point short of the rabbet. There are drop strakes and such, but even these never come to a point. AND - Welcome to MSW. Please post a little intro on the new members forum to let everyone know about yourself. Cheers Allan
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Excellent How to Book for masting and rigging
allanyed replied to Bill Morrison's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
For many techniques applicable to ships of the 18th century, volume 4 of The Fully Framed Model by David Antscherl. Allan -
Got your note re: PM. Gun deck and middle deck plans on their way along with orlop, inboard profile, and cross section plans from the Wiki site. Allan
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Hi TMJ, The drawings at RMG and Wiki Commons in post 10 above show very important items including chain pumps and cisterns on both the gun deck and middle deck as well as elm tree pumps. As the photo you have shown already has decks planked, it may not be possible to include these major features, but something to be considered on a future build. Look at the drawings of the gun deck and middle deck for some good details. If you cannot find them please feel free to PM me and I can forward them to you. They are 45MB to 50MB each so cannot be attached here. Allan
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6-pounder, Royal Navy cannon barrel - George III era
allanyed replied to Gabek's topic in 3D-Printing and Laser-Cutting.
Hi Gabe Thank you for posting this. Both the Pegasus 1776 and Pegasus 1779 would likely have had Armstrong-Frederick guns, both of which had George III emblems so what you show is appropriate for that era. It is good to see the astragal ring around the button. No aftermarket or kit cannon that I have seen to date show this rather distinctive feature on either the Armstrong (1725-1759) or Armstrong Frederick (1760-1791) so your drawing could be very useful to a lot of folks. Allan -
MANY members will attest to the three vessel series designed by MSW member and author David Antscherl from Model Shipways being a great way to start into our hobby. While they are simpler than more advanced kits they are not dumbed down and many of us wish these had been around when we started decades ago. Allan
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Thanks Gary, I was unaware that Boyne was sister to the Victory refit. Do you know which of Boyne plans, 1790 or 1810 is most appropriate? TMJ, both plans on the Wiki site for the orlop deck are high res. but the only high resolution for the inboard profile of Boyne 1790 that I know of can be purchased from RMG if the low resolution plan is not sufficient. For Boyne 1810, the inboard profile plan on the Wiki site is high resolution. Note that orlop deck planks needed to be easily removed so were not usually fastened in place on top of the orlop deck beams. From various plans and from Goodwin's The Construction and Fitting of the English Man of War, page 70: orlop beams were fashioned with a ledge on each side if their upper faces. This was to receive the ends of the short lengths of planking that made up this deck. The sketch below may be more clear than words. Allan
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Have you studied any contemporary plans? There are some of Victory1765 so the layout may be different than her refit about 1803. You can also see similar layouts of other first rates at RMG Collections as well. https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-79914 https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-79912 https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-79949 https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-79948 These are all low resolution but you can buy high res from RMG. There are free high resolution drawings of 98 gun ships on the Wiki site, Boyne 1790. Boyne 1810, Glory 1788, Union 1811 and Impregnable 1786. https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?title=Category:Ship_plans_of_the_Royal_Museums_Greenwich&fileuntil='Hayling'+(1760)+RMG+J0259.png#mw-category-media Sometimes, on smaller ships, in lieu of an orlop deck, there were platforms. In addition there were the magazines and filling rooms below the orlop deck. The drawings will show these better than words. Allan
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Totally agree, they make the model much more personal and add a lot of character to the build. Allan
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Good for you!!! As mentioned above, you have a terrific set of books and a LOT of these things are shown in some detail. Quick checks of the indices will more often than not yield great information that you can use, and often lead you to additional sources such as the thousands of plans at RMG Collections and other sources.
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Hi Ross Rigging on a Spanish ship like your Diana may be different, but FWIW drawings of bowsprit collars in James Lees' The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War show all of them to be served. The gammoning was not. The differences in how each nation did things on these ships is really interesting. In the drawing you posted, it appears that the dolphin striker is somehow coming out of the bottom of the bowsprit cap which might actually weaken it. When they first came out in the RN, which was about the time the Mahonesa Diana was launched, they were square in cross section and nailed to the foreside of the cap. Some years later when they were fitted with jaws they were secured to the aft side of the cap. Allan
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Printable scale rulers
allanyed replied to FlyingFish's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
To paraphrase two lines from the movie Titanic, Molly Brown: Well said Craig Colonel Archibald Gracie" Hear hear! Allan -
Totally agreed Druxey It can be done, but it is not so easy to do commercially, thus would be pretty costly. The following is the original draft on cannon making from HMS Euryalus (36) 1803 Volume II. Allan Cannon barrels.pdf
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Hi Ron, My fault for not being more clear. Yes Lieste, that is the distinctive ring to which I was referring, thank you for clarifying. Also, the badge or cypher varied as well as the trunnions and astragal rings. Sketch below with approximate eras may help. Allan
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Ain't that the truth!!! With options, it is easier for us as there are more choices. But, sometimes, the differences are era dependent so for builders wanting accuracy, this kind of thing sometimes makes a difference. For instance, regarding cannon barrels, I do not recall ever seeing any commercially available Armstrong (circa 1725-1760) or Armstrong Frederick patterns (circa 1760-1791) either in kits or aftermarket sources. Most look closer to the older Borgard pattern guns as the Armstrong and Armstrong-Frederick patterns had the distinctive ring around the cascabel button. Does it really matter??? To some a big no, to others a big yes. Choices abound, as it should be in a hobby 😀 Allan
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These look quite good as they are clearly visible in your model. Nice work. Allan
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Good catch! Regardless, the printed resin stove really looks nice. Allan
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Steven Those sails are gorgeous Allan
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The really may be worth a try as the ink will bleed through giving a mirror image. LOTS of ink going to be used though and it might require a double pass which is what I have done on flags on silk span.
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You are of course right Ron. What I do to get a light color on a dark background is use light grey or thistle in TCW. Not a pure white for sure, but maybe an option. Allan
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