allanyed

One of the many reasons to love MSW.... the help members offer to one another like the post from Ron above with an alternate source for Mr. Frolick.  Nicely done.
Allan

Steve
What John wrote is the best way to go in my opinion.  If your hull is a little out of shape compared to the plans this method will compensate for any variation.  I would cut two at the same time so one can be flipped over and be a mirror image rather than making two tracings.  If the variation of the hull itself starboard to port is slight, the cap will cover this up as they will be symmetrical.
Allan     

79 years ago today 5000 vessels took part  in the largest combat landings ever made.   Ships and sailors from MANY countries took part and many made the ultimate sacrifice along with their soldier brothers,  Pics below are from our recent visit May 23 -25, 2023
  
 

I make mine by laying a sheet of paper over the model and running a pencil around to draw the exact shape of the hull as a template, then cutting the right shape is straightforward.
 
John

79 years ago today 5000 vessels took part  in the largest combat landings ever made.   Ships and sailors from MANY countries took part and many made the ultimate sacrifice along with their soldier brothers,  Pics below are from our recent visit May 23 -25, 2023
  
 

You have chosen a huge project and showing a great start.  One of the nice things about this ship is that you can compare your modern day plans to the contemporary plans and models at the RMG Collections site.         
https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/search/Royal William plans 1719  &  https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-66183
Regarding the lower wales, notice how it diminished in thickness at the bow so it rests in the rabbet as in the photo of the RMG model below.
Allan

 

I overlooked the fact that he was asking abou blackening brass. My bad! Truth be told, I've never tried LOS on brass, but I"ve heard the same complaint from others. I've always primarily used copper instead of brass for fabricating model metal work, mainly because I came by a large stock of it years ago and found it easy to work with and so have used LOS on it. When I have used brass tubing and the like, I've always painted it, not by design, but just by happenstance.  
 
 
Therefore, I'd say...
 

Now I understand why they all are identical.  That in itself is a great achievement.
Sorry if I missed it, but is the toothpick wood or plastic or some other material?  From the photo it is hard to tell but it looks something like those in the picture below.
Thanks!!
Ciao
Allan

Now I understand why they all are identical.  That in itself is a great achievement.
Sorry if I missed it, but is the toothpick wood or plastic or some other material?  From the photo it is hard to tell but it looks something like those in the picture below.
Thanks!!
Ciao
Allan

79 years ago today 5000 vessels took part  in the largest combat landings ever made.   Ships and sailors from MANY countries took part and many made the ultimate sacrifice along with their soldier brothers,  Pics below are from our recent visit May 23 -25, 2023
  
 

Now I understand why they all are identical.  That in itself is a great achievement.
Sorry if I missed it, but is the toothpick wood or plastic or some other material?  From the photo it is hard to tell but it looks something like those in the picture below.
Thanks!!
Ciao
Allan

Bob,
I have never had a good experience with LOS on brass.  It works beautifully on copper, but no luck for me so far on brass.  Is there a trick or secret as I really prefer it to other agents as it can be used on a piece in situ without staining the wood around it.
Thanks
Allan

Now I understand why they all are identical.  That in itself is a great achievement.
Sorry if I missed it, but is the toothpick wood or plastic or some other material?  From the photo it is hard to tell but it looks something like those in the picture below.
Thanks!!
Ciao
Allan

Tim,
Were Blomefield cannon on Speedy as well as the carronades?   If they were indeed Blomefields,  you can take the STL drawing to any 3D printer and tell them the dimensions that you want and they can scale to size and print them black resin for very little cost.  I also attached the 2D  below to give you an idea of the actual shape of the cannon of that era.   
Allan
12 pounder Blomefield pattern WITH George the 3rd BADGE (1).stl.glb

 
 
 
 

Ciao, Allan  ☺️

Pertsa
Welcome to MSW.    Please post a little intro about yourself in the new members forum here at MSW.   Hope you will start a build log as it will be interesting to see an older kit assembled and how the parts compare with the kits of today.
Allan

Have you thought about carving them?
 
Those don’t look too bad to make.
 
There is a really good introduction to carving tutorial and group build on this forum.

I totally agree, but thankfully with the nail punches they have they will appear to overlap unlike the original ones that came with the kit. 
Allan
 
 

Where there is a will there is a way!   This is definitely one for the books.   Please do post about this "technique" in the building, framing and plating forum here at MSW.   
 
Collecting from a horse, or.....   I would go with the self-help method.
 
Allan
 
 
 

It is great to see the new Amati plates looking like small nail punches instead of the gigantic rivets.  Hard to tell if they overlap but no matter as they do appear to be shingled properly rather than laying side by side what with having a single row of nails showing on each side.  Very good call to make the switch David
 
Allan
 

Welcome to MSW Ching   
You may want to give your location for those that might be interested in your services as we have members from all over the world.
Allan

Is the model on the right in post #17 above the Norske Love?  It looks very nice.
Allan

Welcome to MSW Ching   
You may want to give your location for those that might be interested in your services as we have members from all over the world.
Allan

I decided to tackle the bowsprit. I had been avoiding it as I was unsure as to how I was going to be able to construct the geometry at the bees. I eventually followed the same method I used when building the masts and I constructed the bowsprit shaft and head as separate entities. This meant that I would not have to redo the entire assembly if I botched one of the many cuts that comprise the end section. I then dowelled the two sections together using some 2mm diameter brass rod and the join was covered up by the woolding.

 

As suspected the end section was quite tricky transitioning from a tapered cylinder to a tapered square with an angled cap tenon further complicating matters. I milled out some slots for the bees. The bees and bee blocks were made from walnut. It will all be painted black so the wood does not need to match.  I noticed from several sources that the sheaves in the bee blocks are one each side and staggered however the AOTSD drawings show two sheave holes per side. I went with the one either side staggered arrangement. A 1mm diameter brass rod was inserted to simulate the bolts through the sheaves.
 





The end cap was cut out of some 5mm thick walnut. Getting the holes at the correct angle was quite challenging but I ended up eyeballing it. I drilled a groove down the starboard side of the cap to accept the jack staff and added some simulated bolts as shown in Steel. I should have used a smaller diameter wire for these as they are somewhat oversized. I spotted in Steel that there was an eyebolt midpoint at the top of the cap. I do not know what this is for but saw that HMS Trincomalee has the same arrangement. This does not seem to be in use in its parked-up configuration but I decided to include it anyway as it was no great bother.
 




I scratch built all the saddles and cleats that appear on the bowsprit as I had followed the dimensions in the AOTSD which resulted in the kit items not fitting the larger diameter I ended up with plus the kit items were made from the dreaded walnut ply so were not that appealing. The saddles were all cut out of 15mm diameter dowel sections. I drilled a hole in the center corresponding to the diameter of the bowsprit at the saddle location. The height and profile were then formed using some shaped mill bits. They are quite delicate structures but should be OK once glued in place or so I thought until I realised that I had glued the fairlead saddle askew and then managed to crumble it to dust while trying to remove it.
 




I formed the cleats from some 2 x 1.4mm walnut planks. I clamped eleven planks (9 + 2 spare) together in the vise and then milled them all at once for consistency. I then put the bowsprit into the dividing attachment and milled recesses corresponding to the cleat locations. This allowed me to get an even spacing of the cleats though it was quite a fiddly exercise.
 








For the jibboom I started off with an 8mm diameter dowel. I needed the additional girth so that I could mill the octagonal section at the heel and form the stop at the other end. I had painted the bowsprit in the ochre colour with black at the overlap. I decided to keep the rest of the jibboom natural to mimic the mast configuration and I used the miniwax Puritan Pine stain to match the masts. I am now wondering if I should not have painted it in the ochre colour. I think I will wait and see if the natural colour grows on me.
 


I added a strip of stainless steel sheet to simulate the lead sheathing that sits forward of the spritsail sling saddle according to Lees. It is a bit shiny so I will have a go at dulling it down using some paint.
 

The woolding was made using 0.5mm diameter dark brown RoS rope which is the closest I have to the diameter indicated in Steel. I used cherry shims to form the protective hoops as per the main mast. I still must decide if I am going to paint these black or leave them natural.
 



I decided to stop the process here and remove the jibboom as I will be working on the rigging which means that I will be spinning the ship around from port to starboard and the delicate jibboom assembly will not survive a hard clonk against the desk lamp. I may install the bowsprit though as this will allow me to further progress the rigging and add the fore stay and preventer stay.
 





 
 

Welcome to MSW Ching   
You may want to give your location for those that might be interested in your services as we have members from all over the world.
Allan