rtropp
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rtropp reacted to JesseLee in Syren by JesseLee - FINISHED - Model Shipways - scale: 1:64
Michael, I used metal strips I found when cleaning out our burn barrel. I have strained my brain trying to figure out what they were in. I just don't know. They are about 4 inches x 7/8 inch. They were blackened and can be bent fairly easily (but that might be because the fire annealed them). I drew/traced the side shape of the carronade on the side of the metal & used a cutting disc on the Dremel to cut the shape out. It took several attempts to get one right. I pinned the piece onto the end of another one of these mystery metal strips. I dilled 2 holes through the pieces. Used cheap small silver colored nails to brad them together. After putting nails through the holes I cut them off about 2/16" on the back side & cut a split/notch in the cut off nail ends with the same cutting disc on the Dremel. Then wedged those splits open with a screwdriver end & hammered them flat. It's kind of crude but it does what I need it to do.
Jesse
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rtropp got a reaction from pergynt in Pandora by marsalv - FINISHED - 1:52
OK, silly question:
The treenails look like they are still attached at the bottom. How are you removing them from the wooden block.
Richard.
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rtropp got a reaction from WackoWolf in HMS Triton Cross Section by alde
Al, I am curious. How long did it take to set up and, do you have any pictures of the set up?
Thanks
Richard
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rtropp got a reaction from Elijah in Syren by JesseLee - FINISHED - Model Shipways - scale: 1:64
Jessie,
I understand that sometimes life gets in the way. I am retired and I still have difficulty spending as much time on my build as I would like.
I am going to continue trying to see what I can accomplish in wood. I have been seriously considering a sherline lathe and if I go to brass I will definitely pull the trigger.
Richard
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rtropp got a reaction from Elijah in Syren by JesseLee - FINISHED - Model Shipways - scale: 1:64
Hi Jessie,
I am at the point of making carronades. As you found out, the metal template doesn't really shave the form to specs. I found that I can use it to shave in a rough shape and then finish by hand. This gets me uniformity of shape along its length but still have some problem getting the various diameters to be uniform. Its probably and issue of practice.
As I put together the prototype, mounted on the sled, I am starting to think about how to finish off the fittings on the rear of the carronade, i.e., lug, breech line ring, threaded piece for the elevator screw. etc. I need to decide if I want to use wood or brass.
Have you thought about it or come to any decision?
Richard
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rtropp reacted to marsalv in Pandora by marsalv - FINISHED - 1:52
Thank you Greg.
After painting are the carriages ready for attaching of guns.
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rtropp reacted to Thanasis in Making Shackles my way…
Ok here we go.
Tools you will need.
The basics in your workshop but I consider also as necessary, what is shown in the below photo.
A heavy duty pliers, with some flat space (3-4 mm / 0.15748’’) at the edges of its nose.
A haemostatic pliers with as much can be narrow nose. If you can’t find this kind of pliers, you can use instead a strong self closing tweezers.
Your round nose pliers (small and larger).
One part of a small hinge, with the pivot.
Drills bits at 0,50 mm diameter.
Soft wire at 0,73 -0,75 mm in diameter (I think is suitable for the 1:24- 1:26 scale of my models). I used those in photo ear piercing nails, finding them suitable in dimensions and convenient in color (no need to paint them) …
And finally an old PC processor...
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rtropp reacted to Thanasis in Making Shackles my way…
Thank you all.
Nils, assuming that you're referring to thimbles, it might be another presentation for this...
Thx
The ruler in in cm.
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rtropp reacted to Thanasis in Making Shackles my way…
Hi all.
In my last model (is coming soon) I've been challenged to make some more metal work.
So I decided among others to deal also with the shackles. You know, the nautical item shaped as the Greek alphabetical character "Ω”...
I didn't want to spoil my lazy way of making models, so I made relatively reasoning...
Perhaps someone has also found an "easy" way to make shackles but I'm happy with my way.
Consider, I managed to make 12 pieces in 40 minutes, with minimal failure...and there are over 30 shackles in my model.
Just give me a few days time, to set up a presentation.
Thx
The ruler is in cm.
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rtropp reacted to Dan Vadas in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - cross-section - from TFFM books
The two 9 pounder Guns were next. I cut the various steps in the carriages on the Byrnes saw
Some (rather dusty ) details of the guns. Once again, more can be found in the full model log :
The guns in place. Side Tackles are yet to be fitted - I'm waiting on some of Chuck's 0.3mm line which has kindly been given to me by Grant Dale (Thanks mate ):
Danny
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rtropp reacted to marsalv in Pandora by marsalv - FINISHED - 1:52
Monogram is etched from brass 0,2 mm and glued with CA.
The blackening of guns is done a I started preparation of parts for gun carriages.
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rtropp reacted to marsalv in Pandora by marsalv - FINISHED - 1:52
To Allan - the monogram is not my production, these are made by "etching" company (http://www.etchworks.cz/). Normally are parts etched simultaneously from both side, here is etching made only from one side. Before gluing is necessary to roughen both surfaces (eg. tweezers) then glue adheres well (I had to repair two pieces from 20). The solution for blackening - heated solution water and patina for Tiffany technique (ratio 50 : 1) (http://www.vensy.cz/vensy/eshop/12-1-Tiffany-technika-cinovani/31-2-Chemie-pro-cinovani/5/345-Patina-cerna-tiffany-technika)
Carriages assembly.
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rtropp reacted to marsalv in Pandora by marsalv - FINISHED - 1:52
Thank you guys. Because I have no duplicator, I had to turn each gun separately (many time and many destroyed material).
Details of carriages added.
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rtropp got a reaction from Piet in Young America 1853 by EdT - FINISHED - extreme clipper
nice idea on the ca applicator. I will have to try it.
With the cut needle tip I am using now, rather than solvent, I keep a lighter near the work station and just burn off the excesses. The lighter is set to a very low flame. Of course, I keep that away from anything flammable, and away from my build.
Richard
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rtropp got a reaction from EdT in Young America 1853 by EdT - FINISHED - extreme clipper
nice idea on the ca applicator. I will have to try it.
With the cut needle tip I am using now, rather than solvent, I keep a lighter near the work station and just burn off the excesses. The lighter is set to a very low flame. Of course, I keep that away from anything flammable, and away from my build.
Richard
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rtropp got a reaction from Piet in Syren by JesseLee - FINISHED - Model Shipways - scale: 1:64
Jessie,
I understand that sometimes life gets in the way. I am retired and I still have difficulty spending as much time on my build as I would like.
I am going to continue trying to see what I can accomplish in wood. I have been seriously considering a sherline lathe and if I go to brass I will definitely pull the trigger.
Richard
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rtropp got a reaction from Piet in Syren by JesseLee - FINISHED - Model Shipways - scale: 1:64
Hi Jessie,
I am at the point of making carronades. As you found out, the metal template doesn't really shave the form to specs. I found that I can use it to shave in a rough shape and then finish by hand. This gets me uniformity of shape along its length but still have some problem getting the various diameters to be uniform. Its probably and issue of practice.
As I put together the prototype, mounted on the sled, I am starting to think about how to finish off the fittings on the rear of the carronade, i.e., lug, breech line ring, threaded piece for the elevator screw. etc. I need to decide if I want to use wood or brass.
Have you thought about it or come to any decision?
Richard
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rtropp got a reaction from mtaylor in Young America 1853 by EdT - FINISHED - extreme clipper
nice idea on the ca applicator. I will have to try it.
With the cut needle tip I am using now, rather than solvent, I keep a lighter near the work station and just burn off the excesses. The lighter is set to a very low flame. Of course, I keep that away from anything flammable, and away from my build.
Richard
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rtropp got a reaction from mtaylor in HMS Triton Cross Section by alde
Al, I am curious. How long did it take to set up and, do you have any pictures of the set up?
Thanks
Richard
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rtropp got a reaction from Canute in HMS Triton Cross Section by alde
Al, I am curious. How long did it take to set up and, do you have any pictures of the set up?
Thanks
Richard
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rtropp reacted to GDM67 in HMS Naiad 1797 by GDM67 - 1:60 - using Ed Tosti Books
205 hours into the voyage. I am now at frame 18f. This is one of the main bends where 18a and 18f (Aft and Fore) are bonded together with 2.5" spacers along the frame, starting above the floor. I am very pleased with how things are turning out and as you can see from the template, the frames are at their correct shape.
I have decided to deviate from the practicum briefly and will fair the top timbers completed to this point before moving forward with additional frames. I feel this is necessary since there are a few out of place and this will affect the fairing of the hull further down the road. I will pin a batten along the sheer line using bamboo dowels to pull the timbers in line. I am choosing bamboo as opposed to brass pins so that I can fair the inside of the top timbers. My longer-term plan is to place the ceiling timbers before full fairing of the outside. This will offer the hull structure the best support possible.
Note the patterns are still attached. While a bit tattered, they are a valuable road map. I can't emphasize enough how iimportant it is to leave these patterns in place until the last possible moment.
Thanks, Gary
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rtropp reacted to GDM67 in HMS Naiad 1797 by GDM67 - 1:60 - using Ed Tosti Books
179 hours into the build -
I have now begun work on the next phase - Square Frames - these are very complicated and a wonderful challenge. The difference in sided thichkness from one futtock to the next is anywhere from 1 3/4" to 2 1/2". At scale, thats in thousands! At first, I was just going to blend the sided thicknesses to one size, but in my humble opinion, that gets away from the whole point of building a ship in this style. So out came the calipers in thousands! I had to glue in some wood spacers in the keel slot since it was too wide. I will file these down so there is a snug fit. This will not be seen in the final model. In subsequent frames, I will not cut this slot so wide on the first go around.
Note the subtle changes in frame thickness and how the chocks are cut. I love this kind of detail.
Here is Main Frame 24. The main frames are bolted together with spacers for breathing. You really get a strong appreciation for how the shipbuilders mittigated wood rot through creative spacing techniques. This build is the best ship construnction education I have gotten as compared to just reading about it in books.
Note the amount of fairing to be done - later...
yes, the S/B side first futtock looks thin... It actually just on the margins... I will need to be careful here when fairing and gain some thickness back in the next frames. The gantry helps to align the frames center line.
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