rtropp

Mike,
I just realized your were talking apples and I was talking oranges.
I am considering the disc maker for flat disks, such as those used in sheaves.  For rivet heads I have been turning brass into short nails using the methods described by others on the site. I tried to use a set of miniature rivet heads that came on a sticky backing, but found them hard to control.  That was earlier in my experience and I was not able to control them very well.
 
The punch looks like it would do well if the coloring issue could be resolved.  I have had been using Blacken-it which took a lot of abuse and kept its look, but blacken it is no longer manufactured.  I will be trying Liver of Sulfur next.
 
Richard

Jessie,
tough break.  It happens to me all the time but no cat... just clumsy.  So, I bought some fine mesh window screen repair patches (4" squares) and clamped them to the end of my 1 1/4 inch vacuum hose.  It is now permanently mounted so I can use the vacuum to collect saw dust at my work table.  I actually have a car kit extension over the mesh.  If I pick up something I need, i just take off the car kit and the the object is caught in the screen.
 
Richard

Jessie,
tough break.  It happens to me all the time but no cat... just clumsy.  So, I bought some fine mesh window screen repair patches (4" squares) and clamped them to the end of my 1 1/4 inch vacuum hose.  It is now permanently mounted so I can use the vacuum to collect saw dust at my work table.  I actually have a car kit extension over the mesh.  If I pick up something I need, i just take off the car kit and the the object is caught in the screen.
 
Richard

Jessie,
tough break.  It happens to me all the time but no cat... just clumsy.  So, I bought some fine mesh window screen repair patches (4" squares) and clamped them to the end of my 1 1/4 inch vacuum hose.  It is now permanently mounted so I can use the vacuum to collect saw dust at my work table.  I actually have a car kit extension over the mesh.  If I pick up something I need, i just take off the car kit and the the object is caught in the screen.
 
Richard

Jessie,
tough break.  It happens to me all the time but no cat... just clumsy.  So, I bought some fine mesh window screen repair patches (4" squares) and clamped them to the end of my 1 1/4 inch vacuum hose.  It is now permanently mounted so I can use the vacuum to collect saw dust at my work table.  I actually have a car kit extension over the mesh.  If I pick up something I need, i just take off the car kit and the the object is caught in the screen.
 
Richard

Looking great, Gary. You 're obviously very comfortable working with wood.
 
The scarph joint between your upper and lower apron appears to be S-shaped on your mock-up. I believe the actual scarph joint consists of three flat surfaces, much like the upper apron, but much shorter.   

Again, thank you for all the great comments and support.  I appreciate all the "follows" and look forward to the popcorn and beer!
Greg- good eye on the "S-curve" of my lower apron, I hadnt noticed this.  Although the glue-up has already happened, it wont show in the final product.  I appreciate the comment and will be sure to incorporate it into my next ship.
 
As for my log - Since EdT and Albert have done such an outstanding job narrating thier logs, not to mention Ed's books, my plan here is to focus more on techniques and sequences not already illustrated.  No sense talking about measurements, since that stuff is already well documented.
 
Below is the lower apron/stem/keel all glued up and ready for final sanding, which will not take place until further down the road.
 
The knee of the head has not been glued in yet.  I still need to taper it as well as cut the gammoning slot.  I am waiting for my new micromark mini drill press that Santa is putting under the tree, courtesy of my wonderful Admiral.  I opted for boxwood on my false keel and did not ebonize it.  I just liked the look.  I used ebony on my Rattlesnake and was looking for something a little different. I also prefer natural woods as opposed to paint. 
 
While I want to be historically accurate (and this build allows that), I am not a strict purist in the sense and will carefully defer to artistic license at times. 
 

 
Over the weekend, I plan to install rising wood, the bollard timbers, taper and install the beak, cut the rabbet, and construct the stern deadwood.  Yes, I am goal oriented...
 
Happy Holidays!
 
G

I lay black paper between the parts, here's what happens:

Stern Deadwood -
 
I spent the weekend working on the Stern Deadwood. This was a bit of a challenge because I was having trouble visualizing how it should look when complete.  I actually made the piece twice! There are many angles that I needed to take into account - specifically, how the planking would flow into the rabbets as well as the keel.
 
The Naiad is my fifth ship and the first ship that I used calipers on.  In the past, I was content with just using a ruler to identify 1/4 stock, but with my calipers, I get it down to the hundredths.  I find it very enjoyable to be this precise and it only takes a little extra effort in diligence to up your game. It has for me.
 

Stern Deadwood glued up.  I wetted it down for the photo to show the joint detail.  Most of which will not show in the final product, but hey, I love god and will build some detail for him!  Still to be added are the inner post as well as the stern post.  I will then cut the keel to size.  Important to remember is to keep the correct angle of the keel when trimming.  Also, there is a cumulative affect when using the pattern sheets.  The glue joints, will increase the overall size of the piece, so some subtle trimming is necessary when finished.  Double and triple check the angle of the keel and stern post. This is another critical angle of the ship.
 

Pattern sheet installed on both sides of stern deadwood in preparation for cutting in of the bearding line.   I scored this line with a #11 blade, making multiple cuts, each deeper into the wood. This allows for a break line when chiseling out the bearding.
 

A couple of examples of using the calipers to measure center as well as the depth of cut for the bearding. I used a compass to mark the material needed for removal.

 

As I type this, my fingers ache.  I spent the better part of four hours cleaning this bearding line up, using a variety of tools, mostly a small chisel, razor blade for scraping and a small file.
 

When it was all done, the notching of the stern deadwood was exactly the 14 1/2" as required.  Well worth the time and effort!
 

A couple of shots of the near finished stern deadwood.  I still need to cut the rabbet into the stem post as well as glue the assembly onto the keel. It is just set in here.
 
A few interesting details:  Make sure the inner post is notched for the transoms with an angle parallel to the keel and not the piece itself.  Even though this was written in the book, I did it wrong on my first attempt.  Also, as mentioned, the aft rabbet will extend past the inner post and notch into the stern post.  It will be flat below the transom and a "v" angle at the area of the transoms.
 
More to come next week.
 
Thanks, Gary

Jessie,
tough break.  It happens to me all the time but no cat... just clumsy.  So, I bought some fine mesh window screen repair patches (4" squares) and clamped them to the end of my 1 1/4 inch vacuum hose.  It is now permanently mounted so I can use the vacuum to collect saw dust at my work table.  I actually have a car kit extension over the mesh.  If I pick up something I need, i just take off the car kit and the the object is caught in the screen.
 
Richard

Jessie,
tough break.  It happens to me all the time but no cat... just clumsy.  So, I bought some fine mesh window screen repair patches (4" squares) and clamped them to the end of my 1 1/4 inch vacuum hose.  It is now permanently mounted so I can use the vacuum to collect saw dust at my work table.  I actually have a car kit extension over the mesh.  If I pick up something I need, i just take off the car kit and the the object is caught in the screen.
 
Richard

Sorry, hit send too soon.
 
I had looked at the decals but did not like the flat look.  The brass miniature rivet heads had dimension and I may try those again.  In my attempts with it, I did not have the problem with glue interfering with the blackening.  Either I was able to use really small drops of CA or I was just lucky.
 
Richard

Mike,
I just realized your were talking apples and I was talking oranges.
I am considering the disc maker for flat disks, such as those used in sheaves.  For rivet heads I have been turning brass into short nails using the methods described by others on the site. I tried to use a set of miniature rivet heads that came on a sticky backing, but found them hard to control.  That was earlier in my experience and I was not able to control them very well.
 
The punch looks like it would do well if the coloring issue could be resolved.  I have had been using Blacken-it which took a lot of abuse and kept its look, but blacken it is no longer manufactured.  I will be trying Liver of Sulfur next.
 
Richard

I have reworked the rails a number of times.  I decided to use boxwood, which was a lot better than the supplied basswood. Even so, with my inexperience, i have remade, reinstalled and remove the rails a number of times.  I think, after a number of weeks, that I may be ready to get it right.  I will try your paper clip idea as I am not have a lot of success with the razor blade shaping approach.
Richard

Mike 
Good to know about the rawhide mallet.
As for the blackening, how do you think blackening the stock before making the disc would work? at worst only the edge should need blackening after that.  Also, when I blacken small parts, I put them on a white surface to help them stand out.
 
Richard

Thanks Sal, I appreciate the info.
 
As I look at the rails and cat head I am not completely satisfied.  They are not positioned as well as I would like.  I have already spent over a month but since I am not really in a rush I am considering removing, rebuilding and re mounting all of it.  That would also give me a chance to try some ideas I have been offered for cutting the grooves, creating sheaves.
 
The good news is that I am getting good at "deconstructing."  Bad news is that i need to be good at "deconstructing."
 
Richard

I will enjoy following along. I will be trying the same thing in the future and appreciate watching your work.
Richard

I have reworked the rails a number of times.  I decided to use boxwood, which was a lot better than the supplied basswood. Even so, with my inexperience, i have remade, reinstalled and remove the rails a number of times.  I think, after a number of weeks, that I may be ready to get it right.  I will try your paper clip idea as I am not have a lot of success with the razor blade shaping approach.
Richard

I have reworked the rails a number of times.  I decided to use boxwood, which was a lot better than the supplied basswood. Even so, with my inexperience, i have remade, reinstalled and remove the rails a number of times.  I think, after a number of weeks, that I may be ready to get it right.  I will try your paper clip idea as I am not have a lot of success with the razor blade shaping approach.
Richard

I have reworked the rails a number of times.  I decided to use boxwood, which was a lot better than the supplied basswood. Even so, with my inexperience, i have remade, reinstalled and remove the rails a number of times.  I think, after a number of weeks, that I may be ready to get it right.  I will try your paper clip idea as I am not have a lot of success with the razor blade shaping approach.
Richard

Thanks Sal, I appreciate the info.
 
As I look at the rails and cat head I am not completely satisfied.  They are not positioned as well as I would like.  I have already spent over a month but since I am not really in a rush I am considering removing, rebuilding and re mounting all of it.  That would also give me a chance to try some ideas I have been offered for cutting the grooves, creating sheaves.
 
The good news is that I am getting good at "deconstructing."  Bad news is that i need to be good at "deconstructing."
 
Richard

Thanks Sal, I appreciate the info.
 
As I look at the rails and cat head I am not completely satisfied.  They are not positioned as well as I would like.  I have already spent over a month but since I am not really in a rush I am considering removing, rebuilding and re mounting all of it.  That would also give me a chance to try some ideas I have been offered for cutting the grooves, creating sheaves.
 
The good news is that I am getting good at "deconstructing."  Bad news is that i need to be good at "deconstructing."
 
Richard

I have reworked the rails a number of times.  I decided to use boxwood, which was a lot better than the supplied basswood. Even so, with my inexperience, i have remade, reinstalled and remove the rails a number of times.  I think, after a number of weeks, that I may be ready to get it right.  I will try your paper clip idea as I am not have a lot of success with the razor blade shaping approach.
Richard

I will enjoy following along. I will be trying the same thing in the future and appreciate watching your work.
Richard

I have reworked the rails a number of times.  I decided to use boxwood, which was a lot better than the supplied basswood. Even so, with my inexperience, i have remade, reinstalled and remove the rails a number of times.  I think, after a number of weeks, that I may be ready to get it right.  I will try your paper clip idea as I am not have a lot of success with the razor blade shaping approach.
Richard