rtropp

Hi Don,
 
I have used my build slip mainly for gluing the bulkheads and then mostly as a stand after that for planking. During planking I used a pillow which was making it easier for me (as I often intend to take the hull to my lap for close work).
 
Buy anyway here are a few photos.
 
On the first picture below you will see the screw holes at every 10cm intervals, on both sides of the base board. You also see the "panel" which is standing vertically. There are 2 "rails" on either side behind this panel. These rails are fixed to the panel (in other words, the white vertical panel and the two rails slide together on the base board). The rails have screws, which can be tightened/loosened using washers. While the screws are in the same hole the rails will allow the panel to move around 10cm back and forth. So,
- as you will work with the next frame, you move the panel accordingly.
- when the rails do not allow moving any further with the screws in the same hole, then you remove the screws, move the panel to the next location and put the screws to the next pair of holes.
 

 
Second photo below shows how you use the measurements on the panels for reference:
 

 
You can catch a few more photos in the early pages of my Riva Aquarama build log where the build slip is in action:
 
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/13427-riva-aquarama-by-aydingocer-amati-radio-a-new-challenge-for-a-so-far-static-ship-builder/
 
Br;
Aydin

Here is the link for our fellow members located in the USA
Minislip

Did someone try to DIY?
It must not be too much difficult

I am looking for another chuck for my Proxxon wood lathe. 
I have the one that uses two posts to tighten but my hands are beginning to have difficulty.  I would like to find one that uses a  t-bar type screw to adjust the jaws.
Does anyone know if the 27024 independent four jaw chuck use a t-bar type adjuster?  If not, what other ones will fit the db250?  Cost is a consideration
Thanks for the help
Richard

Jim,
does the extended table attach to the current table or replace it?
Thanks,
Richard

Jim,
does the extended table attach to the current table or replace it?
Thanks,
Richard

Jim,
does the extended table attach to the current table or replace it?
Thanks,
Richard

I am looking for another chuck for my Proxxon wood lathe. 
I have the one that uses two posts to tighten but my hands are beginning to have difficulty.  I would like to find one that uses a  t-bar type screw to adjust the jaws.
Does anyone know if the 27024 independent four jaw chuck use a t-bar type adjuster?  If not, what other ones will fit the db250?  Cost is a consideration
Thanks for the help
Richard

Hi Jessie,
You cannons look good. I think that the suggestions about sanding or using steel wool should help greatly.  Your cannons are carved nicely and have a great appearance.  Much nicer that the ones supplied.  It is especially nice to see them to scale and happily they still work with the sled supplied. 
 
I am working on turning my own out of boxwood.  I tried a few different ways to paint but was not happy with any of them. At my skill level they looked painted.  So, to try and get a smoother look that kept the detail, I decided to try wood dye.  As I experiment I liked the way it is turning out.  If I look really closely I can see it is wood not brass. 
 
Actually, after a coat of poly it is beginning to look better.  Just for a comparison, I may go back and try painting using the suggestions listed here.  I am experimenting on cannon rejects. The good news is that I have lot to experiment on.  The bad news is that... I have a lot to experiment on :-) 
 
I will be posting the pictures on my build log. Your work has been great to watch and since I am only a bit behind it is very helpful.  
 
Thanks,
Richard

I am looking for another chuck for my Proxxon wood lathe. 
I have the one that uses two posts to tighten but my hands are beginning to have difficulty.  I would like to find one that uses a  t-bar type screw to adjust the jaws.
Does anyone know if the 27024 independent four jaw chuck use a t-bar type adjuster?  If not, what other ones will fit the db250?  Cost is a consideration
Thanks for the help
Richard

hi Mark,
I saw your comments about mills.  I had looked at the mill you linked to from little machine shop.  One reason for leaning towards the Sherline is that most of the accessories from the MMark will fit the Sherline so would not have to reinvest as much by switching to R8.  But, I use the mill for drilling and like the lever like handle on the Sieg.
So, I am wavering
 
Richard.

Hi All!
 
304 hours into the journey and feeling good!
 
The photo below is not a pile of sticks to be played with like one of my powder monkey's thought.  They are the remaining 256 framing pieces awaiting shipment to the shipyard.  Prior to yard assembly, they will go through a quality check, drum sanding (my grizzly spindle sander arrives tomorrow), filing of the chock joints, and squaring of the ends.  I will remake any framing piece that does not pass muster. I will then organize them in zip lock backs and place them in a plastic file bin, along with thier template, pattern, and chocks while they wait for assembly. There will be another quality check after assembly, prior to installation.
 
My back of the envelope calculation is that there are about 1000 frame pieces, 550 chocks, and 50 keel/stem/stern assembly pieces at this point in the build.  I estimate that I will have a roughed in hull at 400 hours.  Not a bad way to spend 400 hours, if you ask me.
 

 
I hope to see another build of this ship on the forum in the near future.  It has been an amazing journey thus far.  I have seen my knowledge of ship design expand exponentially, my scroll saw skills are now dialed in and my enthusiasm is as strong as ever.  While personal results may varry, if you are looking to up your game, this is a ship to consider!
Best, G

The hull is reinforced and prepared for the production of decks and finishing putty.

Another photos 
 

     

hi Mark,
I saw your comments about mills.  I had looked at the mill you linked to from little machine shop.  One reason for leaning towards the Sherline is that most of the accessories from the MMark will fit the Sherline so would not have to reinvest as much by switching to R8.  But, I use the mill for drilling and like the lever like handle on the Sieg.
So, I am wavering
 
Richard.

hi Mark,
I saw your comments about mills.  I had looked at the mill you linked to from little machine shop.  One reason for leaning towards the Sherline is that most of the accessories from the MMark will fit the Sherline so would not have to reinvest as much by switching to R8.  But, I use the mill for drilling and like the lever like handle on the Sieg.
So, I am wavering
 
Richard.

hi Mark,
I saw your comments about mills.  I had looked at the mill you linked to from little machine shop.  One reason for leaning towards the Sherline is that most of the accessories from the MMark will fit the Sherline so would not have to reinvest as much by switching to R8.  But, I use the mill for drilling and like the lever like handle on the Sieg.
So, I am wavering
 
Richard.

Thank you for comments .
Cleats and manger.

Thank you guys for comments, but you are not right now.
I'm not satisfied with the already finished parts (lower and upper cheeks), and so I decided to make them again. It's hard for me to explain it with my bad english, but used wood has a distinctive structure across the fiber and on the manufactured parts is this structure too visible. I had to choose another orientation of parts on wood.
A few minor details is completed - wash cant, gammonig chock, bolster nad lining in the hawse holes.

Thank you guys, I´m very glad that you like my build. Your positive comments are the driving force to further stages of construction for me. I'll try to disappoint your expectations .
Today only few photos of details on the outside of the hull.

Another photos 
 

 

 

 

 

Albert,
I will be following your excellent build with great interest. I appreciate all the detailed pictures. They greatly help in understanding how scratch building can be accomplished.
Thanks for the effort you are making it presenting your work.
Richard