rtropp

hi Mark,
I saw your comments about mills.  I had looked at the mill you linked to from little machine shop.  One reason for leaning towards the Sherline is that most of the accessories from the MMark will fit the Sherline so would not have to reinvest as much by switching to R8.  But, I use the mill for drilling and like the lever like handle on the Sieg.
So, I am wavering
 
Richard.

hi Mark,
I saw your comments about mills.  I had looked at the mill you linked to from little machine shop.  One reason for leaning towards the Sherline is that most of the accessories from the MMark will fit the Sherline so would not have to reinvest as much by switching to R8.  But, I use the mill for drilling and like the lever like handle on the Sieg.
So, I am wavering
 
Richard.

hi Mark,
I saw your comments about mills.  I had looked at the mill you linked to from little machine shop.  One reason for leaning towards the Sherline is that most of the accessories from the MMark will fit the Sherline so would not have to reinvest as much by switching to R8.  But, I use the mill for drilling and like the lever like handle on the Sieg.
So, I am wavering
 
Richard.

Now comes a scary part, cutting a hole into the hull.  Mark the location for the hole based on the plan.  Since the port side is fully planked I had to cut out a segment of the frieze and some of the molding.  On the starboard side I removed a piece of ribband and one frame top.  Once the cathead is installed, I will replace that frame top and secure it with filler pieces on either side.  The cathead is inserted at an angle so the opening is directed downwards.
 

 

 

 
Referring back to the plan, note the angle that the cathead takes, insert it into the hole in the hull and place it under the third beam.  Mark the beam location on the cathead and cut out the mortise in the cathead.  Replace the cathead and temporarily place the second beam assembly on the deck clamp.  Mark this beam location on the cathead and cut the mortise for this beam as well.  
 

 

 

 
On my ship, possibly because of my previous measurement errors, the cathead crosses very close to the deck clamp.  As a result I needed to notch both the first beam and the under surface of the cathead to get it into place.  The unexpected benefit of this is that it locks everything securely into place.  With the cathead secured, the outboard face was sanded to make it perpendicular to the water line.  All the exposed edges were chamfered and the aft end was smoothed over, following the angle of the third beam.  Still to go are the holes for the sheaves, the sheaves themselves and the decorative cap.
 

 

 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Hello,
 
sorry for delay with updates, I was bussy with new job and nearly no time for modelling... have not much time to work at the Sphynx, so here only few images showing last changes.
 
Last beams and carlings on forecastle and the door at kooking plase:
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Then glued inboard planks on the taffrail, and last strake at the f'caslte bulkhead:
 

 

 

 

 
Mounted all Cannons, glued waterweys and margin plank on f'castle:
 

 

 

 

 
Gratings and coaming are dry fitted now
 
Alex

I started installing the deck clamps for all three decks...  pictures will be forthcoming. 
 
I'm also making some tools/jigs.
 
The first is an inside measuring tool.  I put this one together as a test, I could make it fancier and neater, but it works.  It's just a strip of wood with a miniature clothes pin (peg) glued on one side.  There's 4 small strips for guiding the slider and there's two sliders of different lengths to allow me to measure from the narrowest part of the hull to the widest so I can cut the deck beams to fit properly.
 


 
The next one is just a simple jig.  Hahn's plans show a line indicating the top of the beams (bottom of the deck planks).  So.... I worked backwards a bit when setting up the frames and put in tabs 1/4" (6.35mm) down from the line to place the clamps.  My clamps are 1/8" (3.17mm) thick and the beams are 3/16" (4.76mm).   To get the beams to the right height, I need to remove 1/16" (1.5mm) from the ends of the beam where they sit on the clamp.  Yeah.. I know, complicated, but having had issues with measuring down into the hull and then lining up the clamp with the marks, I thought this would make life easier.  It did.  But the result is this jig.  
 
It's simple two pieces of scrap wood glued together with one being 1/16" taller than the other.  The beam goes into the jig as shown in the last picture and can be marked or cut using it.  It'll work for the narrowest to the widest beam as the arc is uniform across the beam.  A nice side benefit is that I end up with a flat spot on the end of the beam for gluing it to the clamp.
 



 
I'm making some spales at this time using the same method Grant used in his Granado group build..... only a bit smaller.
Lord a willin' and the creek don't rise, I should have all the clamps in some time tomorrow.  Maybe even some beams fitted... We'll see.
 
 

Hello,
here is a short update:
It continues with threading the ropes for lateral securing hammocks.

 

Thank you all!

The report for the construction of the French Corvette goes on as follows:
With the production of the cover for the hammocks I had begun some time ago. First, I made the Hammocks cranes.
See here LINK !
In the further progress I make the wooden mold, which was then coated with the canvas of fine fabrics.
 
Please Look at the pictures:

 

 

 

 

Thanks for the kind words and positive comments,  and also for the LIKES.
 
The next equipment parts of the French corvette is a cover for spare masts and spare spars. The weatherproof cover is a canvas, which was painted with tar. This canvas is mounted on fork-shaped iron and been completed front and back by a board.
 
The following pictures speak for themselves and I hope you like them.

Source: La Créole in Musée de la Marine Paris
 
The image of Morel Fatio shows an example of an open storage of the reserve timber:

 
Likewise, an image of the model of La Belle Poule:

Source: Musée de la Marine Paris
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 166 – Bulwark Sheaves
 
Well. I finally got some time in the workshop for a couple hours today for the first work on the model in over a month.  Only a small task today – making and fitting the four bulwark sheaves that lead the fore and lower course sheets through the sides.  I toyed with fitting sheaves in the frames for these but the assemblies are quite small and after rigging, the sheaves will be completely hidden by the lines.  So I used the simple method of drilling holes, spaced at the sheave diameter into a strip of 8" x 8" stock as shown in the first picture.
 

 
The sheaves were then carved into the strip.  The first step was to outline the sides of the sheave with a sharp knife as shown below.
 

 
A small chisel was then used to give the sheaves a round shape.
 

 
The strips were then cut into the 20" long sheave assemblies that would be mounted in the bulwarks.
 
In the next picture the position of one of the sheaves is being marked up from the base drawing station lines using a triangle..
 

 
One end of each of the assemblies butts against one of the top timbers with its lower face laid on the planksheer.  In the picture one of two holes has been started within the outline of the sheave assembly.  These were then drilled through the planking.  The next picture shows a rectangular opening being filed out to fit the sheave assembly. 
 

 
In the next picture the assembly has been glued in flush with the outside of the planking.
 

 
After installing, these were painted black on the outside and white on the inside to match surrounding woodwork.
 

 
A small task, but one of a few that remain to get the model ready for masts and rigging.
 
Ed

Thank you Rudolf.
 
I'm using bamboo, which I first split the plane into planks.
 
Walter
 

Hi,
 
I would like to thank everyone for all the likes.
  
I have a few more filler frames to add to the bow and my focus is now shifting to the stern.
 
Walter
 

 

 

 

 
 
 

Hi,
 
Just a quick update.  The frames are moving along.
 
Walter
 

 

 

 

 

 

Hi,
 
I’ve started building the frames.  Two frame clamps were assembled and some test fitting done.
 
Walter
 

 

 

 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Work has started on the cat head.  This one piece has taken me over three hours to plan and fabricate.  I still have to install the sheaves and finish sand it.  I will show a few pictures today and will describe the steps of construction as I make the starboard one.
 

 

 

Thanks as always for all the input & support!
 
The fine steel wool is working pretty good. I'm still having one problem with the paint. Even though I'm using thinned enamel (Testors), When I handle them it still gets grungy & picks up super fine dust & stuff & turns really dull looking somewhat losing the metal appearance. Were cannons dull looking? Would a clear coat make them look too shiny?
 
I also just found another potential problem. The instructions say the barrels should be about center or very near center of the gun ports. Test fitting the carronades & sleds mine look like the sit too high. It seems to show more by eye that the picture shows. I have experimented with thinning down one sled & lowering the plug. This lowers it some but it is still not centered. Is this acceptable? How would you raise the gun ports at this point without almost complete deconstruction of the sides? Kinda freaking out here.
 
Jesse
 
 

295 Hours into the Voyage...
 
As I approach the dead flat (midship frame) of the ship, beveling the frames has become less of an issue.  Each frame is just a fraction of the previous frame. 
 
Below are a few s/b shots of the ship with the new installment of frame 11F.

 

 
Below is frame 10f (forward) each frame section is composed of a fore and aft.  The main frame bends are the even number / lettered frames.  It is these frames that have the stretchers across the top.  I will be going back to reinstall some of the aft stretchers in my ongoing attempts to fair the top timbers.  The stretchers help keep the top timbers in alignment.  Without them, the ship wants to cave in on itself.  This will be easily rectified.  For those considering this build, keep the stretchers in as long as possible.  I removed a few to many, a little to early...

 
Here is where I have ended up as of last night. Frame 9f.  All my little friends are shown.  Clamps, single cut curved file, a razor blade, and miniature cabinet scraper. I have stayed far away from sandpaper up to this point and plan to do so until I go into final finishing.  Even then, sandpaper will be a secondary tool to the finished product. This is a major departure from how I used to build ships.

 
A few more thoughts:
Consider building this ship in 1:48 scale to take full advantage of all the scale drawings - they are truly impressive works in their own right. Obvioulsy, space will be an issue.
 
Consider building a few sample frames, such as the mid-ship frames, prior to embarking on the beveled frames like 24a/f.  Even with previous experience in POF and lofting, this is a new challenge.  Its a totally different kind of build that a sistered piece POF or Hahn style build.
 
I am planning to submit this ship to the NRG to share at the conference this fall.  I think more poeple should consider this style build.  Its what I call Extreme Plank on Frame Building "EPOF".
 
As an EPOF, I plan to fully detail the interior.  It would be ashame to cut corners now...
 
More next week.
Gary
 

In the category: What did you receive today? A new lens means trying new photos! In this set and the previous one, I tried a lens which theoretically is made for wildlife photos. First picture is a good example. Another lens was also used.

Thank you,
 
 
Hi Allan, your second question is very good!
 
''Were there many that wound up in the scrap pile in order to get the nine good ones? "
 
I lost one… in the bottom od the ship! The rail at the mizzen mast is not glued yet to the floor. When I installed it for the pictures, the second one from the left was not glued well and detached itself and felt right in the bottom. Often I can recover the parts  with a stell rod  which is hone with a  very sharp end. This time, it was too much difficult, not enough access and some times parts like to play to hide.
 
"Of all the woods you have tried for carving, what are your favorites? "
 
For small intricate carvings, small and very tight grain wood is required to retain sharp edges. In theory, many exotic woods would fit in the list. Every body is free to try hardwoods with tight wood pores. In Europe, they have easy access to boxwood which is excellent for small details, but boxwood would not always be my first choice. I have seen few models with boxwood for all the carvings and the rest of the model made with few other woods. Wood properties are 1 thing, color is also very important especially when there is more than one. Some colors complement well together and some other simply do not.
 
For this build, I used exclusively cherry (except for the table of the second deck, which is australian cherry). I like the effect of the monochrome color for stern decorations.
 
Generally fruit woods have tighter wood grain. In this category, I am pretty sure I could try  some carvings with other fruit wood which could include intricate details with sharp and fine edges.
 
With this build, I decided to go with 1 kind of wood; cherry that I paid $2,00 pmp delivered at home. Here in Quebec, there is no access to boxwood, we have access to exotic wood but the price are  very much exotic. I had access 1 time to apple wood and I was very pleased with it. This wood would be the perfect wood for planking : oak wood at small scale with tight grain!
 
Depending of the area where we live fruit wood is the best category. For many years, I would have liked to see and try orange  and peach tree but or climate is too cold to have these trees.
 
We have lilac which has a nice tight wood grain. I find too restrictive to think that boxwood is the only wood that can be use for carving. To me, it is also too much restrictive to think that pearwood is the only wood that can be use for a model. I have even read that 1/48 scale was the only official scale. To me 1/48 scale is  widely use for only 1 reason, because it is the largest scale easily handable by 1 person.

Few times ago, I tried to move the scroll saw high on a table.
Surprisingly, the scroll saw table being close to the eyes, the use of magnification is not necessary for small parts.

Progress of sorts.
 
Back on Version 1, I didn't do anything to the hold area.  However if one looked closely down the main hatch, the frames could be seen.  So this time, I've planked the area there.  I also have some hogsheads and barrels that I'm thinking of placing just in case someone peeks.  That's basically it for the hold.  The plans do show two platforms but nothing as to access.   The admiral agrees with this... also the rest of the plan....
 
Currently, I've cut my deck clamps for all four decks (lower, gun, and the quarterdeck and forecastle).  They're soaking and will be heat bent to shape.  I'm checking the inside again for a fair run for the planks and clamps.  Found a few spots that need some touch up with the sanding stick.  I've got a jig made up with the glue drying for removing the char from 75 deck beams that I ordered from Chuck back before I bought my laser.   Hopefully that won't get too monotonous... 
 
I'm also fiddling with the stern carvings in my "quiet" moments....  
 
The rest of the plan..
As far as details on the lower deck.. there's a gunroom at the stern but nothing in any of the plans on the doorway nor for a scuttle to the deck above nor what is in the gunroom.  I'll be referencing Hermione for this as the Belle Poule plans don't go below the gundeck.  Forward of the gunroom I'll add the 4 officers rooms, two storerooms, and two breadrooms.   And of course, the oven and hatchways. 
 
I'm also adding the bulkhead just behind the foremost hatchway with two doors (left and right to avoid the hatch.  I'm not sure what was stored in that area even though there's six rooms in that cramped area labeled "storeroom".  So I'm winging it a bit.  To the stern, I'll add the 4 officers rooms, two storerooms, and two breadrooms.   And of course, the oven and hatchways.  
 
There seems to be some subtle pressure from the Admiral on this suddenly... I think it's from earlier this week when I showed her the galleries and the little plaque.  Now shes' already started talking "display case"...   I keep telling her, it will be done when it's done...   
 
Once more, dear friends... into the breach.
 

 

I thought I'd add a couple pictures of the sanding jig.  The dark brown curve is just a piece of wood the same dimensions and arc as the beam.   Currently it's set up for the top of the beam.  If I rotate it 180 degees, I'll be able to to the bottom of the beam.   The sanding drum is turning about 5000 rpm and barely touching the wood, but two passes and the wood is clean and the slight angle on the cut edge left by the laser cutter is removed.
 

 

Very nice, the photos will be helpful when I get to that point
Thanks, Richard

Just a quick update to share.
 
I have begun the tedious, yet rewarding and fun task of cutting the futtocks and floors out using my scroll saw.  The ping pong table is full of these pieces.  Typically, there are 6 pieces per half frame with 4 chocks.  Thats 20 peices per frame.  All need to be precision cut, glued and fine tuned.
 

 

 
 
Now for the fun stuff!  To my delight, last night my neighbor came over and gave me this presentation fid that was given to her father over 49 years ago (six weeks before I was born...).  He was an Admiral and ran naval shipyards across the US and also was at Pearl Harbor as was his daughter (my friend).  She has always remarked that her father would have loved to see my shipbuilding, especially the gantry system.  I am honored to have such a family heirloom and will cherish it.  Both she and her husband are my families closest friends. 
 

 

211 hours into the journey...
 
I have been doing some fine tuning this week and realigned the top timbers.  I was originally going to glue a strake across the outside top timber to fair the frames, but thought against it since it would lead to access issues at a later date.  Instead, I clamped a strake across the upper works and then reglued all the spacers for better alignment.  I am pleased with the results and obviously have a little more work to do.
 

 

 
There are 81 square frames on this build, thats a lot of repetition and hundreds of hours work.  I decided to batch make my frames in sets of 4 or 5.  As you can see from the photo, the ping pong table is doing double duty (at least until tomorrow).  You will note frames in various stages of completion.  I prefer to have as few wet glue joints as possible when gluing up the frames. While it may take longer to assemble each individual frame, it has improved the overall results.

 
Looking for a slight change of pace and a little deviation for the frames, I have begun to layout the keelson.  Here you can see various pieces for the stem and stern.  They are oversized slightly for fine tuning.  I used thick cardboard to make the patterns for the stern knee keelson and aft section.  While the scarph joints will not show, I am going to do them anyways since it will be good practice and will also help to reinforce the keel structure as they did on the real ship.