NavyShooter

Very nice design. I wish to see more details of your reloading bench though...I have a modular design for mine, with a metal bench, and a wooden work surface (no sparky!) and I have my presses setup on 3/4" ply bases that have a standard bolt pattern so I can swap my Dillon 550 and my RCBS out whenever I need to go from speed of production to precision of production. 🙂 I know you've mentioned HVAC, but I'll highly suggest adding a spot for a dehumidifier as well. Humidity is a killer - both for wooden models (if that's your preference) but also for powders. When building your powder storage box, I recommend a fully wood construction, with brass fittings (again, no sparky!) (Said by the guy who used to instruct the reloading course at the local club) NS

In looking at the hole designated #18, there seems to be a bar slid into it - so there would be a long pole sticking out behind the carriage that would enable them to push left or right a bit to help aim the cannon?

In case anyone is interested, here is the 81 page instruction manual that is included with the download files. So far, I've been assembling things without looking at it...I am now at the point where I probably *should* read the instructions. uploads_files_2715711_3D_Printed_1.48_Scale_Castle_Class_Corvette_Instructions.pdf

Bofors!

A bit more progress over the weekend. If I can get back out to the garage this afternoon, I'll assemble some of the AA Weapons systems.

And finally, we have a layer of primer on the hull. A bit of sanding and tidying still ahead.

And, you can see from the previous photo, and this one, that I've started on the ballasting. Some lead shot, some additional strength from some fiberglass sheeting and a bit of resin to hold it all together. Intent is to add more weight in the form of additional metal bars (I'm almost out of lead shot!) and hold them in place with resin as well.

So, after an appropriate length of time for the epoxy paint to dry, I had a go with the sander and got it almost all off. Good. Let's try this again.

OK....so....I knew that the drying time on the epoxy paint was 7 days between coats...I read that very clearly on the instructions. I chose NOT to wait 7 days. I am an idiot.

I really like the black and white image of the impact zone on your display. That's a neat touch. I came across a website that had some of the original B&W overlaid with modern Google-maps satellite imagery, showing the areas where the craters were in modern times. That was a really neat overlay. Well done on the models as well, they're spectactular!

5th layer of gelcoat applied - the hull is now quite smooth. I think a light sanding and some primer will be the next step tomorrow!

Rumble I heard was that they were painting the hull, and so my thought is that maybe they had some of the shoring had been removed to paint a section, then they put it back in place incorrectly? The Shores are supposed to be lined up correctly with the hull frames to give the right support. If they'd removed some shores, and put them back slightly offset from the actual frame, then it would be pressing on the hull plate rather than the frame, which has some give to it, and in high winds (25 knot winds were forecast that day?), could have compressed/loosened the shores, and if one or two fell due to improper placement, then it would likely lead to a domino effect.

I found some epoxy spray paint over the weekend, and used that on the interior and some of the upper deck structures to help make them waterproof. Then I joined the forward and after portions of the hull together. Here's some update pictures of the project - the main upper decks received another layer of gel-coat as well last night. Both the hull and the decks need at least one more coat I think. Then I can move on to primer again!

Welcome aboard! I hang my hat in Halifax, and have considerable respect for those who are able to both build and see items as small as are required when building ships in that scale. I generally build bigger, and mostly RC stuff. NS

Alas, no progress for another week...I'm on vacation keeping SWWBO happy. There is some consolation to the rum punch by the pool though....

I really don't know what you mean? Also, WRT any inaccuracies in the hull, well, I've printed the hull as I got it from the gentleman that created the 3D model - Bens Worx. I'm not able to edit the hull or modify it in any way - so it is what it is. I'm 2 layers deep on the gel coat now, and things are fairly smooth. I think one more layer after I join the two hull halves should do me fine. NS

Looks like we're going to be able to do an apples to apples comparison of the HMCS St Thomas with the HMCS Copper Cliffs.

Ahoy, and I really don't know - this is the 3D model as printed, designed by someone else. Do you have a higher resolution version of that docking plan that I could look at and compare?

Welcome aboard!

I've taken on the task of getting a Titanic built as well...I'm certain that it will be no-where near what yours is! I'm working with 3D prints, so there's some aspects to that which are challenging, but workable for what I'm building. Intent is that it will be a slightly better than stand-off scale model that will end up in the local pond - I'm about 20% done the printing so far. Ish. I have about another 3-4 weeks of printing left to go. NS

OK, a bit more hardener, an extra layer on the bow, and a layer on the stern (no primer on it first this time...I decided to see how it'd look without. 35 drops of hardener in this batch of gelcoat instead of 20 - things were getting tacky by the time I finished painting the coat on!

Gel coat is still...gelling...as of last evening. I think I need to re-apply with a heavier input of hardener this time....doing by guess and by eye seems not to cut it. I'll see how things are when I get home from work today.

Good news! The new shaft-lines arrived the other day! I'll do a test-fit, and then I'll be getting into some fiberglass work! NS

Here's a couple more pictures of tonight's progress. A bit more printing (small boats) plus some more sanding, and the first layer of gel-coat applied. We'll see how well that dries in the garage overnight.

Function will define form. Size will define cost. Are you turning wood? Are you turning metal? How big an item? I've owned a Unimat, Taig, and a Sherline over the years. I upgraded to a used Southbend 10K, and have moved since then to an import 10x30 Lathe that didn't have the 'issues' that an old high school shop class beater lathe has in terms of wear and abuse. If all you're turning is cannons and bushings from brass, then a Taig or a Sherline will do you OK. If you're planning to build something large (bigger than about 1/2"), made of steel, or plan to do anything that's threaded, then you need bigger than that. There is a lot of info about the import 7x14 lathes that are out there - they're cheap, and you get what you pay for in terms of quality. You'll find yourself working on upgrading/fixing the lathe more than you do building parts on the lathe. In the end, I dumped about $1500 into bits and pieces for my Sherline. I had the milling attachment, the extended bed, and so on. It was still only barely capable in terms of what I wanted to do. I now have a 10x30 Precision Matthews lathe, and it's capable of doing everything I've tossed at it so far. Cost me about $4K (Canadian) landed to my door with all the import fees/taxes/etc, and it was well equipped - both 3 and 4 jaw chucks included. For $1500, you can get a Grizzly 8x16" lathe - 8" x 16" Variable-Speed Benchtop Lathe at Grizzly.com That's less than $200 more than the biggest Sherline mini lathe, with a heck of a lot more capability. To be honest, if you've got the space for a Sherline, you've got the space for the Grizzly, and it's a heck of a lot more machine. NS