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NavyShooter

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Everything posted by NavyShooter

  1. I found some epoxy spray paint over the weekend, and used that on the interior and some of the upper deck structures to help make them waterproof. Then I joined the forward and after portions of the hull together. Here's some update pictures of the project - the main upper decks received another layer of gel-coat as well last night. Both the hull and the decks need at least one more coat I think. Then I can move on to primer again!
  2. Welcome aboard! I hang my hat in Halifax, and have considerable respect for those who are able to both build and see items as small as are required when building ships in that scale. I generally build bigger, and mostly RC stuff. NS
  3. Alas, no progress for another week...I'm on vacation keeping SWWBO happy. There is some consolation to the rum punch by the pool though....
  4. I really don't know what you mean? Also, WRT any inaccuracies in the hull, well, I've printed the hull as I got it from the gentleman that created the 3D model - Bens Worx. I'm not able to edit the hull or modify it in any way - so it is what it is. I'm 2 layers deep on the gel coat now, and things are fairly smooth. I think one more layer after I join the two hull halves should do me fine. NS
  5. Looks like we're going to be able to do an apples to apples comparison of the HMCS St Thomas with the HMCS Copper Cliffs.
  6. Ahoy, and I really don't know - this is the 3D model as printed, designed by someone else. Do you have a higher resolution version of that docking plan that I could look at and compare?
  7. I've taken on the task of getting a Titanic built as well...I'm certain that it will be no-where near what yours is! I'm working with 3D prints, so there's some aspects to that which are challenging, but workable for what I'm building. Intent is that it will be a slightly better than stand-off scale model that will end up in the local pond - I'm about 20% done the printing so far. Ish. I have about another 3-4 weeks of printing left to go. NS
  8. OK, a bit more hardener, an extra layer on the bow, and a layer on the stern (no primer on it first this time...I decided to see how it'd look without. 35 drops of hardener in this batch of gelcoat instead of 20 - things were getting tacky by the time I finished painting the coat on!
  9. Gel coat is still...gelling...as of last evening. I think I need to re-apply with a heavier input of hardener this time....doing by guess and by eye seems not to cut it. I'll see how things are when I get home from work today.
  10. Good news! The new shaft-lines arrived the other day! I'll do a test-fit, and then I'll be getting into some fiberglass work! NS
  11. Here's a couple more pictures of tonight's progress. A bit more printing (small boats) plus some more sanding, and the first layer of gel-coat applied. We'll see how well that dries in the garage overnight.
  12. Function will define form. Size will define cost. Are you turning wood? Are you turning metal? How big an item? I've owned a Unimat, Taig, and a Sherline over the years. I upgraded to a used Southbend 10K, and have moved since then to an import 10x30 Lathe that didn't have the 'issues' that an old high school shop class beater lathe has in terms of wear and abuse. If all you're turning is cannons and bushings from brass, then a Taig or a Sherline will do you OK. If you're planning to build something large (bigger than about 1/2"), made of steel, or plan to do anything that's threaded, then you need bigger than that. There is a lot of info about the import 7x14 lathes that are out there - they're cheap, and you get what you pay for in terms of quality. You'll find yourself working on upgrading/fixing the lathe more than you do building parts on the lathe. In the end, I dumped about $1500 into bits and pieces for my Sherline. I had the milling attachment, the extended bed, and so on. It was still only barely capable in terms of what I wanted to do. I now have a 10x30 Precision Matthews lathe, and it's capable of doing everything I've tossed at it so far. Cost me about $4K (Canadian) landed to my door with all the import fees/taxes/etc, and it was well equipped - both 3 and 4 jaw chucks included. For $1500, you can get a Grizzly 8x16" lathe - 8" x 16" Variable-Speed Benchtop Lathe at Grizzly.com That's less than $200 more than the biggest Sherline mini lathe, with a heck of a lot more capability. To be honest, if you've got the space for a Sherline, you've got the space for the Grizzly, and it's a heck of a lot more machine. NS
  13. The printing is substantially complete - I have a few detail bits left to go (boats, etc) but have moved the 'bulk' of the kit out to the garage to get things started. Here's the first bit of sanding and a layer of primer on the 'bow half'.
  14. I use PLA that I get at the local shop - Eurekatek. They're just around the corner from me. My experience is that their Royal Blue is absolutely delightful to print with.
  15. Of note....this boat is going to be 63 inches long. For some reason I didn't think it was going to be that huge. On the other hand, the Titanic is going to be over 8 feet long when it's all done...and the first module for it is now on the printer.
  16. Welcome aboard Squid! I'm an ex-RCN Skimmer type that spent my career on the East Coast. I was a SONAR tech (Maintainer - not an operator) so if you're familiar with Monty Python, I'm the guy who fixed the machine that goes "PING". Enjoy your time here on the forums, I'm sure you'll find your niche! The amount of expertise here is amazing to me at times! NS (Brad)
  17. Hull is 100% printed. Switching the big printer over to the 'next' project, and I'm now doing the details on the Prusa for this ship.
  18. And....25.5 hours into a 26 hour print...things went off the rails and I'm having to redo the last module. Alas!
  19. Here's how the printing is going....module 6 of 8 is going to be done later this afternoon. I should have the hull printing done early next week!
  20. And, in keeping with the way my life usually goes, here's the beginning, and the failed end of one of the modules being printed. This was still in the 'troubleshoot the new-to-me' printer stage, so I'm not hugely concerned about the failed print. It helped me figure out the real core problem, and things are trucking along now. I've got 2 modules completed, and the 3rd will be done in about 3 hours.
  21. Good evening gents, I've decided to take on a project - I'd originally purchased the print files from Bensworx last year to build a version of his Castle Class Corvette in 1/96 scale as a fleet-mate for my HMCS Bonaventure project. That said, scaling the print didn't work so well. The hull wasn't thick enough and many of the superstructure parts scaled down to a single layer (0.4mm) thick plastic which was not thick enough to be workable. So, to the backburner it went. Then I saw this thread by King Derelict: I enjoyed reading his work, but wasn't really in the mindset of building the Castle after the initial issues I had at 1/96 with her. Additionally, due to the size of the prints, they'd be a tight fit on my Prusa printer. Then. I had a change of heart. We had our monthly modeling guild meeting, and there were a couple of things that came up. First - our club normally maintains the RMS Titanic model that floats in the Halifax Public Gardens. Well, that model sank last summer, and needs some 'considerable repair work' to get her back suitable for service. At the end of the meeting, we had a chat about getting the old model fixed up, or...should I try and print another one? So...I'm working down that path right now working with a 3D modeler to adjust his 1/1000 scale model to 1/100, and provide me with a hollow interior solid object that I can print, with hull sides of about 5mm thickness. At the same time, I found myself a 'new to me' Creality 10S Pro that I need to sort out - I'll need the larger printer (30x30x40 cm) to be able to print the Titanic hull modules, so I decided to print some of the Castle files as test-jobs. Then I found out that the "Friends of HMCS SACKVILLE" organization in Halifax normally provide a model of the Sackville to be anchored out in the pond as well. The status of that model is uncertain...and I realized that I have a set of plans for a Castle Class Corvette....and...as luck would have it, an old shipmate of mine is now the XO of the Naval Reserve Division in St. Thomas Ontario - and one of the 12 Castles in RCN Service was the HMCS ST.THOMAS. So. Current 'plan' is to print the Castle, set her up as the HMCS ST.THOMAS, and once the hull files are clear of the bigger printer, I should be able to print everything else on the Prusa, as I switch the bigger printer over to hammering out the Titanic parts. I've briefly mentioned to my buddy, and he may end up coming to Halifax for either the Launch, or the Recovery, as the intent is that the HMCS St Thomas will end up following him back to his unit for display. We'll see how it goes. For now, here's a picture of the original Titanic model in the pond at the park. Here's the link to the 3D print files as well in case you're interested: 1 48 Castle Class Corvette RC Model Ship 3D model 3D printable | CGTrader
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