NavyShooter
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Welcome aboard! What part of our nation do you hang your hat in? I'm on the east coast in Halifax area. NS
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Here's the whole setup:
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We've got her out on display for the weekend! Here she is with Guild President Iain hanging onto the stern! We dropped in early tonight to get some of the big pieces in place. This really gives a good idea of how huge this model is!!!
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She's got a layer of red oxide primer laid up now. We'll go with what we have here for the show this weekend. Now to fit an 8.5 foot model into a 6 foot bed for a 30km drive into downtown without damage....wish me luck. NS
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Got the 2nd layer on the Stbd side yesterday, I need to do some quick sanding, then I'm going to spray on a layer of red primer tonight. Tomorrow evening, she gets dropped off at the show.
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The Stbd Layer got added....needs another though. We'll see what gets done between now and the show on Friday. NS
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Second Layer applied to the port side. It's drying now, and I think I'm going to head out to the garage again after my coffee and see if I can get a layer on the Stbd Side too.
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Here's how she looks this afternoon. My hope is to get another layer on this side today, and maybe a couple of layers on the other side as well. She won't be water-tight (shaft line holes to fill first) but damn near.
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HMCS Bonaventure is on the shelf for a few weeks - I'm working on the RMS Titanic for the Guild - my goal is to get the Titanic done over the winter and then switch back to the Bonnie again once my workbench is cleared.
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A few more minutes out in the garage, and the full hull is now glued together, a quick sanding was done over the last layer of resin, and a full layer of resin was applied over the sanded section - the rough parts over the mat is now looking pretty smooth. Goal for tomorrow (I'm off work) is to get both sides of the hull coated with at least 2 layers of resin to seal them in. Then, maybe Wednesday evening, I'll have time to shoot a layer of red paint over the hull to see how it looks. Goal is to have *something* worthy of showing at the craft/hobby show this weekend. The Guild will be represented at a table or two, and I've promised some...stuff...
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The plan for this one involves having a solar powered bilge pump installed as a 'just in case', and once the ballast is in and sorted out, the intent is to have the rest of the volume of the hull filled with Styrofoam to prevent the ship from 'going down' even if the worst case happened and she did spring a leak. This is, as I think I explained, version 3 that our Guild is providing to the Public Gardens. Version 1 lasted about 15 years, and was retired to a Guild member's backyard. Version 2 lasted about 4.5 years, having sank last fall, and spending the winter on the bottom of the pond. Version 2 is the one you see in the first post with the plumbing pipe at the bow. My hope is that this one stays afloat for a few more years once I get her finished!
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Here's how things look tonight after some putty, some fiberglass, and some more glue. Recall, this model is destined for a pond, so it's got to be resilient. Fiberglass layers will do that...I hope. Here we see the first layers of fiberglass mat applied. I used the mat instead of the regular weave because...well...I had some on hand and wanted to use it up as a base layer. In this image, you can see the roughness of the base layer which you get from the fiberglass mat - the center of the keel area has now received 2 layers of resin. This is a....BIG....ship. NS
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OK, a bit of progress to report...the 3 forward 'module assemblies' have now been glued together.
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Of note, this was a picture of the original model a few years back. You can see that the original was quite detailed, had rigging, and was a favoured spot for at least one gull to hang out. Also, if you zoom in on this link in G Maps, and turn on the satellite imagery, you can see the spot amidst the lily pads where the Titanic model usually floats. https://maps.app.goo.gl/gFegbovZY3Ttc5ne9
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The plan for the build was that I was to do the printing, and would pass it on to another guild member who would do the assembly and painting. He started by assembling some of the modules into basically 4 larger sections. Alas, the best laid plans seldom work out, and that member took a year long contract in another province, and dropped the model back to me to work on over the winter. The time has come to start that work. The Guild has a model show in a couple of weeks, and I'd like to have something on display to show off. So, step 1 is to get some putty on the sections, and smooth some surfaces. Next will be to add a layer of fiberglass resin and start sealing things up.
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Here you can see some images of the hull - some of the modules took up to 50 hours to print. If you recall my build of the HMCS St Thomas, I used the same printer, so there are some of the same minor print flaws in the hull. I'm not stressed about it, that's what putty and fiberglass resin will hide. The superstructure was originally sent with all the windows open, so I asked that the designer re-do it with the windows sealed up inside. That took him 10 minutes of work...it would have taken me hours to seal those from the inside if I'd had to do it on the model itself. You can see the level of detail is quite good. It will far exceed that of the current model, and I think it will meet the goal. For reference, the cost of the PLA to print this was about $475 Cdn.
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This is NOT destined to be a highly detailed model. The Guild built one of those a few years ago which is on display at the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic in Halifax. Here you see some finishing touches being applied to that model. I think it was about 1/200. This model will be a slightly better than stand-off scale model, with some detail, but most of that will be invisible due to the model being in the middle of the pond, rather than behind glass. It must first and foremost be durable, reasonably accurate, and able to survive hopefully many years of immersion in a duck pond, with it being launched in May, and pulled out in October. It must be black/red/white/tan, and must be a good visual representation of the RMS Titanic. It does not need rigging, or super detailing. It needs to be able to survive a duck landing on it. I intend to include a small interior water pump, in case there is any leakage. (Solar powered) I also intend to include an LED flashing element, signaling SOS. (Battery powered, solar charged.) The hull is printed of PLA, will be covered in Bondo Fiberglass Resin on the outside, epoxy paint inside, and will have a metal keel strike plate both inside and outside to support, and act as ballast. Our estimate is that this model will need to weigh close to 200 pounds to sit at a scale waterline.
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Ahoy Gents! The other ongoing RMS Titanic build has me inspired to start a concurrent thread... The Maritime Ship Modellers Guild in Halifax NS has, for many years, had a good relationship with the city parks folks, and you can see the image below of the RMS Titanic Model that spent many years in pond at the Halifax Public Gardens. That model was retired about 5 years ago, and a replacement was slapped together. The replacement was not built as well as the original. The original lasted 15+ years, the replacement sank last fall, and spent the winter on the bottom of the pond. You can see the image of the model as recovered (after having the duck poop rinsed off) and a well meaning member of the Guild did some quick repairs on her to get her back in the pond this summer. Alas, the repairs did not take, and she started sinking again. and was pulled out of the pond and put back in storage. As a group, we decided at our March meeting to go ahead and build another Titanic. I offered to investigate 3D printing one, and that is the path that we chose. I engaged with a designer, and he modified one of his 1/1000 scale files to suit our needs in 1/100 scale. The printing started in April, and finished in May. Ish.
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Perhaps the right term is "sea chest" or "sea bay" for a water inlet.
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Titanic by Tsm209 - 1/100
NavyShooter replied to Tsm209's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1901 - Present Day
It sure is massive in this scale, isn't it? I'm working on one for stand-off scale presentation for the Maritime Ship Modellers Guild here in Halifax NS. Maybe I should start a thread as well. -
That is 2 sheets of styrene - a 2mm and a 3mm, each one 8 feet by 15 inches. When I get time next week, we'll see if the 2mm is going to be stiff enough...or if the 3mm will be light enough.
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Looking for an Anchor Winch - RC Boat
NavyShooter replied to NavyShooter's topic in RC Kits & Scratch building
STL file RC Anchor winch freefall・3D printing design to download・Cults (cults3d.com) There's another option - 3D printed solution for you. Requires 2 channels though. -
OK, so, with a bit of a delay in production due to...well...life...(Austin for F1 racing with the family, plus a couple of weekends working with the Army Reserves) I'm starting to line up to get things on track again. Piedmont Plastics in Dartmouth NS has 2 and 3mm thick Styrene plastic sheets (4x8 feet) in stock, at $48 and $96 each respectively. So. I've ordered a sheet of each to bring home. I am thinking that the 2mm might work, but might be subject to some warpage. I'm thinking that the 3mm would probably work, but might be too heavy. So. I'm buying both and they'll have them cut to 'size' for me early next week. Good news is that I've got a pick-me-up-truck so I'll be able to carry them home easily.
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Interestingly, the same 20mm Gatling is found in the shipboard CIWS...and they all were evolved from the army AA version that was mounted on the M113 APC back in the 60's.
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Looking for an Anchor Winch - RC Boat
NavyShooter replied to NavyShooter's topic in RC Kits & Scratch building
He had a face B ook page, but he closed down a few months ago.
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