Jaager
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Jaager got a reaction from EricWilliamMarshall in "material" of the ships fitting, or what color do I paint it?
Kearnold,
If this is not 'one-off' model and you intend to build others, you might consider using this as an opportunity to dip your toe into the scratch build world. Replace the wooden component castings with dublicates that you fabricate using actual scale appropriate wood. You should research the actual scantlings of the parts to be built. The castings may be over scale to begin with.
If you can make friends with a near by modeler who has the proper tools, The choice of wood species available to you is much greater than that available to those who fabricate hulls. The parts that you need can come from the same stock as those turning pens since it is all small. The choices available as 4x4 and 8x4 lumber are much fewer in number.
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Jaager got a reaction from flyer in Paint and varnish thoughts, recommendations
This is something that I did not want to hear when it was first published in the NRJ, but scale has a definite effect on just how much gloss a paint finish should have.
Even at 1:24 egg shell or matte would better approximate a full size gloss hull seen from 24 feet away - is what I am thinking.
High gloss on a model runs the danger of making it look like a toy.
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Jaager got a reaction from BenD in Beginner marking tools
Boy! Is this something that is prone to get into a love me, love my tools sort of zone.
I will just show my most often go-to basic tools for this
First is a 6 inch steel ruler - Imperial and metric. The ships I model are Imperial based, but metric is easier to subdivide a distance with.
a 3 inch machinist's square
a technical lead pen with soft lead 2mm insert and a piece of 220 grit sandpaper to keep a ~60 degree wedge instead of a circular point.
Old time woodworkers seem to prefer a knife mark and a violin makers knife like this 3mm
I did not learn about a knife mark until I was too set in my ways.
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Sandpaper
Following a suggestion from Don Vardas :
"For the time being, use a heavy grit paper (80 is about the best) for your initial "rough" sand and finish it off with lighter grits to 240 grit. If you Contact Cement the paper to a cork block it makes it a lot easier too. Buy an extra cork block and shape a "half-round" into it to do inside curves."
I bought a cork bock sold for Yoga. Using my bandsaw I cut a variety of small blocks curved and angled. But rather than the aggressive and messy contact cement, I use rubber cement. It hold well enough as long as both surfaces are coated and allowed to dry before mounting the paper. This does preclude the use of Norton 7X or 10X most commonly found in big box hardware shops. Rubber cement does not like the no skid coating on the back.
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Sandpaper
For surfaces that meet and are PVA bonded, 220 grit is right at the edge of not leaving a surface rough enough for the polymer chains to grip. I am sort of OCD about 220 grit and that fine is pushing it, I think, but my structures hold.
From what I read, open coat aluminum oxide is the gold standard for wood.
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Beginner marking tools
Boy! Is this something that is prone to get into a love me, love my tools sort of zone.
I will just show my most often go-to basic tools for this
First is a 6 inch steel ruler - Imperial and metric. The ships I model are Imperial based, but metric is easier to subdivide a distance with.
a 3 inch machinist's square
a technical lead pen with soft lead 2mm insert and a piece of 220 grit sandpaper to keep a ~60 degree wedge instead of a circular point.
Old time woodworkers seem to prefer a knife mark and a violin makers knife like this 3mm
I did not learn about a knife mark until I was too set in my ways.
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Jaager got a reaction from Keith Black in Beginner marking tools
Boy! Is this something that is prone to get into a love me, love my tools sort of zone.
I will just show my most often go-to basic tools for this
First is a 6 inch steel ruler - Imperial and metric. The ships I model are Imperial based, but metric is easier to subdivide a distance with.
a 3 inch machinist's square
a technical lead pen with soft lead 2mm insert and a piece of 220 grit sandpaper to keep a ~60 degree wedge instead of a circular point.
Old time woodworkers seem to prefer a knife mark and a violin makers knife like this 3mm
I did not learn about a knife mark until I was too set in my ways.
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Jaager got a reaction from barkeater in Beginner marking tools
Boy! Is this something that is prone to get into a love me, love my tools sort of zone.
I will just show my most often go-to basic tools for this
First is a 6 inch steel ruler - Imperial and metric. The ships I model are Imperial based, but metric is easier to subdivide a distance with.
a 3 inch machinist's square
a technical lead pen with soft lead 2mm insert and a piece of 220 grit sandpaper to keep a ~60 degree wedge instead of a circular point.
Old time woodworkers seem to prefer a knife mark and a violin makers knife like this 3mm
I did not learn about a knife mark until I was too set in my ways.
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Jaager got a reaction from Justin P. in Sandpaper
Following a suggestion from Don Vardas :
"For the time being, use a heavy grit paper (80 is about the best) for your initial "rough" sand and finish it off with lighter grits to 240 grit. If you Contact Cement the paper to a cork block it makes it a lot easier too. Buy an extra cork block and shape a "half-round" into it to do inside curves."
I bought a cork bock sold for Yoga. Using my bandsaw I cut a variety of small blocks curved and angled. But rather than the aggressive and messy contact cement, I use rubber cement. It hold well enough as long as both surfaces are coated and allowed to dry before mounting the paper. This does preclude the use of Norton 7X or 10X most commonly found in big box hardware shops. Rubber cement does not like the no skid coating on the back.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Sandpaper
Following a suggestion from Don Vardas :
"For the time being, use a heavy grit paper (80 is about the best) for your initial "rough" sand and finish it off with lighter grits to 240 grit. If you Contact Cement the paper to a cork block it makes it a lot easier too. Buy an extra cork block and shape a "half-round" into it to do inside curves."
I bought a cork bock sold for Yoga. Using my bandsaw I cut a variety of small blocks curved and angled. But rather than the aggressive and messy contact cement, I use rubber cement. It hold well enough as long as both surfaces are coated and allowed to dry before mounting the paper. This does preclude the use of Norton 7X or 10X most commonly found in big box hardware shops. Rubber cement does not like the no skid coating on the back.
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Jaager reacted to Bob Cleek in Sandpaper
"There's an app for that." Stock item at auto body and fender supply houses. Expensive, but a little goes a long way and you'll make up the difference in sandpaper savings.
Additionally, particularly with power driven abrasive disks and belts, the regular use of a crepe rubber cleaning stick will extend the life of the abrasive sheet considerably. They are cheap and last forever. POWERTEC 71002 Abrasive Cleaning Stick for Sanding Belts & Discs | Natural Rubber Eraser - Woodworking Shop Tools for Sanding Perfection - Vacuum And Dust Collector Accessories - Amazon.com
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Jaager got a reaction from Justin P. in Sandpaper
For surfaces that meet and are PVA bonded, 220 grit is right at the edge of not leaving a surface rough enough for the polymer chains to grip. I am sort of OCD about 220 grit and that fine is pushing it, I think, but my structures hold.
From what I read, open coat aluminum oxide is the gold standard for wood.
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Paint and varnish thoughts, recommendations
This is something that I did not want to hear when it was first published in the NRJ, but scale has a definite effect on just how much gloss a paint finish should have.
Even at 1:24 egg shell or matte would better approximate a full size gloss hull seen from 24 feet away - is what I am thinking.
High gloss on a model runs the danger of making it look like a toy.
-
Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Brazilian Ebony
In chasing links for this wood, it reads as though it would be insanely difficult to cut or rip or slice as hard as it is. I suspect doing much of it will effect the cutting edges of the tools used. This is a hidden cost.
There is not all that much that is black as far as deck furniture.
Topside planking will involve a lot of ripping. Wales, especially top and butt or anchor stock involve a lot of cutting.
This hardness may lend it to being worth it for miniature scale models.
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Jaager got a reaction from thibaultron in Sandpaper
For surfaces that meet and are PVA bonded, 220 grit is right at the edge of not leaving a surface rough enough for the polymer chains to grip. I am sort of OCD about 220 grit and that fine is pushing it, I think, but my structures hold.
From what I read, open coat aluminum oxide is the gold standard for wood.
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Jaager got a reaction from thibaultron in Brazilian Ebony
In chasing links for this wood, it reads as though it would be insanely difficult to cut or rip or slice as hard as it is. I suspect doing much of it will effect the cutting edges of the tools used. This is a hidden cost.
There is not all that much that is black as far as deck furniture.
Topside planking will involve a lot of ripping. Wales, especially top and butt or anchor stock involve a lot of cutting.
This hardness may lend it to being worth it for miniature scale models.
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Jaager reacted to Charles Green in Brazilian Ebony
I'm not familiar with this wood - had to look it up. Brazilian Ebony, Swartiza tomentosa vs. the various species of "real" ebony, all from the genus Diospyros. So we are not talking about a variety of ebony, but something that resembles it. Very dark brown to nearly black with not so dark streaks. Newly cut wood is yellow/orange until it oxidizes to the dark color. It works well. Dust hazard was listed as unknown - don't take this to mean there isn't one; protect yourself.
The highest quality ebony will be solid black but will still have streaks/pockets of brown that will decrease the yield of solid black wood. You must protect your self from ebony dust. The oil in most most tropical hardwoods makes gluing problematic unless you wipe the surface to be glued with acetone just before the glue is applied.
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Jaager got a reaction from druxey in Sandpaper
For surfaces that meet and are PVA bonded, 220 grit is right at the edge of not leaving a surface rough enough for the polymer chains to grip. I am sort of OCD about 220 grit and that fine is pushing it, I think, but my structures hold.
From what I read, open coat aluminum oxide is the gold standard for wood.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Sandpaper
For surfaces that meet and are PVA bonded, 220 grit is right at the edge of not leaving a surface rough enough for the polymer chains to grip. I am sort of OCD about 220 grit and that fine is pushing it, I think, but my structures hold.
From what I read, open coat aluminum oxide is the gold standard for wood.
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Jaager reacted to druxey in Sandpaper
Wet and dry paper is used for metal, not wood. This, and the fact you are using extremely fine grades is why you are getting clogging. Garnet, emery, aluminum oxide and silicon carbide are used on wood. See:
https://www.empireabrasives.com/blog/sandpaper-grit/
Usually, for wood, 400-grit is as fine as you need to go.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Paint and varnish thoughts, recommendations
This is something that I did not want to hear when it was first published in the NRJ, but scale has a definite effect on just how much gloss a paint finish should have.
Even at 1:24 egg shell or matte would better approximate a full size gloss hull seen from 24 feet away - is what I am thinking.
High gloss on a model runs the danger of making it look like a toy.
-
Jaager got a reaction from Bob Cleek in Paint and varnish thoughts, recommendations
This is something that I did not want to hear when it was first published in the NRJ, but scale has a definite effect on just how much gloss a paint finish should have.
Even at 1:24 egg shell or matte would better approximate a full size gloss hull seen from 24 feet away - is what I am thinking.
High gloss on a model runs the danger of making it look like a toy.
-
Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Rotary tool recommendations, preferences
I completely agree and use it for the same jobs that you do. I noticed that it had been dropped by MM, but found it on the Dremel web site after digging. I was checking to make sure that it would be useful to recommend it here when the subject came up. It is a bummer to learn that it has become extinct.
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Jaager got a reaction from EricWilliamMarshall in Rotary tool recommendations, preferences
One thing about files: a lot of deals and advertising for diamond coated. These are for working metal. The cutting edges do not fit with wood.
You want HSS. You want one of the small number of high quality company products. If you are doing heavy wood removal, keep any downward force on top of the area being filed.
Working a file with the file force vectors making it bow will not end well for your pocketbook.
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