Jaager

"Real life" deck planking is not stained. Small boat decks are sometimes oiled, but, for larger vessels, decks are left unfinished. They are scrubbed clean regularly and in olden times they were "holy-stonned," meaning that they were "sanded" with square stone blocks, to remove accumulations of tar which dripped from the rigging when applied and even when it liquified in the heat of the tropics. Decks were laid of a single species of wood and so should not have appeared much different in color from one to the other. (Of course, if repairs were made and portions of decking replaced, it may vary slightly in appearance.) On a model, at scale, a deck should be a single color. A model's deck can, of course, be stained if the modeler wishes to use a species of wood that is of a lighter color than the real deck they are portraying. 
 
The cabin top in the posted photo appears to have an edge of a species different than the planks in the middle of the surrounding edge frame. They could, also, be of the same species, in this case quite possible teak, which has some variation in color, depending upon the subspecies of teak used. The difference in color seen in the cabin top in the picture appears to be the result of sloppy maintenance more than anything else. The top is varnished and it appears the varnish was applied without the teak being properly stripped and bleached before re-varnishing, leaving some weathered differently than others.
 
Properly, the "bright" (unpainted) wood, whether it be bare or varnished, should be of the same color. Where different colored wood is used for accents (as perhaps with the edge framing of the cabin top here,) that would require staining separately, either by careful masking, or staining separately before assembly. Other's mileage may vary, but I really see no reason to apply "wipe on poly" on bright wood on a model and I suppose that's a story for another night. (It's fine for bringing up the grain and figuring, but it's a rare wood species that benefits having it's grain or figuring accented at modeling scales, particularly if one has paid the big bucks for fine wood because of its even coloring.) 
 
Below: An (apparently) unfinished deck. The slight variations in color are the result of planks coming from different trees or parts of trees. At "scale viewing distance," this color variation would not be visible. The deck would appear a single color. Note how at "scale viewing distance," i.e. the far forward area of the deck, the color of the wood is seen as uniform and the black seam stopping is barely visible.
 

A for real horror movie.
 
Were I writing the laws for the planet, machines like those would be limited to use on tree farms.  If there are any original growth forests or old secondary growth even left, it would be human handled cutting machines and draft horses or oxen  and only senile trees would be harvested.   The efficiency of these machines is horrifying.  They are the equivalent of strip mining the surface of a forest.
The one machine missing is a giant chipper shredder for the tops, branches, and parts of the stumps that are not harvested for exotic and specialty grain.

I have a 9" generic Asian bench-top band-saw.  I use it almost exclusively for its scroll cutting function.  It uses the more common 59.5" blades.  I have a Carter Stabilizer on it to make the curved tracking necessary for the scroll cutting to be even possible.  My journey with this has taken me from using 1/16" wide blades at first - these seem to no longer exist.  For years I have been using 1/8" blades.  At first, Bosch blades did OK, but there has been evidence of major corporate changes.  Vermont American is now Bosch in a different package and the sharpness of the recent blades was such that they would have cut better if I flipped the blades 180 degrees and used the back edge.  The Power? blades I tried had poor steel and were brittle.  I then tried Olson blades,  They are more expensive, but are sharper, stay sharper longer, and break less often.  In gearing up for my current HMS Centurion build, I decided to visit Olson and stock-up.  I found a deal on thin kerf blades,  about 1/2 price.  The stock I would cut is 1/4" Maple and anyone's blades break more often than I wish.  I bought 10.  Turns out  that my aging eyes missed the small print - the blades were 1/4". not 1/8".  I thought that I had screwed the pooch, but when I started cutting and the mounted 1/8" blade broke, I tried a 1/4" blade.  Turns out that it will cut almost as tight a curve as a 1/8" blade - just a bit more backing and filling in tight places.  The 1/4" also last a whole lot longer. I think my case will outlast me.  There are fewer TPI but the set is slight. So the surface scaring is about the same as a 1/8th blade.
 
If imy 9" dies on me, I will probably get a 10" Rikon with the larger motor.  But still only use it for scroll cutting.
 
I would not use the 9" for any sort of resawing.  Certainly not 2" Pear, which is harder than Hard Maple.  The motors are not up to the load.  The available blades =  serious surface scarring, so a slice needs to be thicker for a thickness sander to get it to a smooth surface.  The blade will likely wander as the guides are not up to the task.  The wedge shaped slices may be usable but they will be either thinner, or a slice to get what you want needs to be ridiculously thick.  The same result occurs if the wander is serpentine.
 
I have a 14" floor model  with a 3HP motor, 220 volt  excellent guides.  It tracks without wandering.  If you are doing resawing, a machine engineered for this function is the reasonable way to go.  Anything less will cost you time, wasted blades, and a lot of wasted wood.  Trying to make do will lead to a mountain of frustration.
 
Unless you are only doing a few passes, no steel blade will be worth buying.  The economy blades leave a really ugly surface -  really deep scarring.  The thin kerf steel resaw dull really quickly and a dull blade soon breaks.  These are false economy.  The carbide resaw blades last a long time,  but they are really expensive - I would not factor in the resharpening they advertise - they will break.  I have found that Lennox Diemaster bimetal blades are in the sweet spot. They last 80-90% as long as a carbide blade and the cost is about 1/4 as much. 

You posted while I was typing.  You might consider a storage unit rental.  Reconstitute your shop there.

I have a 9" generic Asian bench-top band-saw.  I use it almost exclusively for its scroll cutting function.  It uses the more common 59.5" blades.  I have a Carter Stabilizer on it to make the curved tracking necessary for the scroll cutting to be even possible.  My journey with this has taken me from using 1/16" wide blades at first - these seem to no longer exist.  For years I have been using 1/8" blades.  At first, Bosch blades did OK, but there has been evidence of major corporate changes.  Vermont American is now Bosch in a different package and the sharpness of the recent blades was such that they would have cut better if I flipped the blades 180 degrees and used the back edge.  The Power? blades I tried had poor steel and were brittle.  I then tried Olson blades,  They are more expensive, but are sharper, stay sharper longer, and break less often.  In gearing up for my current HMS Centurion build, I decided to visit Olson and stock-up.  I found a deal on thin kerf blades,  about 1/2 price.  The stock I would cut is 1/4" Maple and anyone's blades break more often than I wish.  I bought 10.  Turns out  that my aging eyes missed the small print - the blades were 1/4". not 1/8".  I thought that I had screwed the pooch, but when I started cutting and the mounted 1/8" blade broke, I tried a 1/4" blade.  Turns out that it will cut almost as tight a curve as a 1/8" blade - just a bit more backing and filling in tight places.  The 1/4" also last a whole lot longer. I think my case will outlast me.  There are fewer TPI but the set is slight. So the surface scaring is about the same as a 1/8th blade.
 
If imy 9" dies on me, I will probably get a 10" Rikon with the larger motor.  But still only use it for scroll cutting.
 
I would not use the 9" for any sort of resawing.  Certainly not 2" Pear, which is harder than Hard Maple.  The motors are not up to the load.  The available blades =  serious surface scarring, so a slice needs to be thicker for a thickness sander to get it to a smooth surface.  The blade will likely wander as the guides are not up to the task.  The wedge shaped slices may be usable but they will be either thinner, or a slice to get what you want needs to be ridiculously thick.  The same result occurs if the wander is serpentine.
 
I have a 14" floor model  with a 3HP motor, 220 volt  excellent guides.  It tracks without wandering.  If you are doing resawing, a machine engineered for this function is the reasonable way to go.  Anything less will cost you time, wasted blades, and a lot of wasted wood.  Trying to make do will lead to a mountain of frustration.
 
Unless you are only doing a few passes, no steel blade will be worth buying.  The economy blades leave a really ugly surface -  really deep scarring.  The thin kerf steel resaw dull really quickly and a dull blade soon breaks.  These are false economy.  The carbide resaw blades last a long time,  but they are really expensive - I would not factor in the resharpening they advertise - they will break.  I have found that Lennox Diemaster bimetal blades are in the sweet spot. They last 80-90% as long as a carbide blade and the cost is about 1/4 as much. 

I have a 9" generic Asian bench-top band-saw.  I use it almost exclusively for its scroll cutting function.  It uses the more common 59.5" blades.  I have a Carter Stabilizer on it to make the curved tracking necessary for the scroll cutting to be even possible.  My journey with this has taken me from using 1/16" wide blades at first - these seem to no longer exist.  For years I have been using 1/8" blades.  At first, Bosch blades did OK, but there has been evidence of major corporate changes.  Vermont American is now Bosch in a different package and the sharpness of the recent blades was such that they would have cut better if I flipped the blades 180 degrees and used the back edge.  The Power? blades I tried had poor steel and were brittle.  I then tried Olson blades,  They are more expensive, but are sharper, stay sharper longer, and break less often.  In gearing up for my current HMS Centurion build, I decided to visit Olson and stock-up.  I found a deal on thin kerf blades,  about 1/2 price.  The stock I would cut is 1/4" Maple and anyone's blades break more often than I wish.  I bought 10.  Turns out  that my aging eyes missed the small print - the blades were 1/4". not 1/8".  I thought that I had screwed the pooch, but when I started cutting and the mounted 1/8" blade broke, I tried a 1/4" blade.  Turns out that it will cut almost as tight a curve as a 1/8" blade - just a bit more backing and filling in tight places.  The 1/4" also last a whole lot longer. I think my case will outlast me.  There are fewer TPI but the set is slight. So the surface scaring is about the same as a 1/8th blade.
 
If imy 9" dies on me, I will probably get a 10" Rikon with the larger motor.  But still only use it for scroll cutting.
 
I would not use the 9" for any sort of resawing.  Certainly not 2" Pear, which is harder than Hard Maple.  The motors are not up to the load.  The available blades =  serious surface scarring, so a slice needs to be thicker for a thickness sander to get it to a smooth surface.  The blade will likely wander as the guides are not up to the task.  The wedge shaped slices may be usable but they will be either thinner, or a slice to get what you want needs to be ridiculously thick.  The same result occurs if the wander is serpentine.
 
I have a 14" floor model  with a 3HP motor, 220 volt  excellent guides.  It tracks without wandering.  If you are doing resawing, a machine engineered for this function is the reasonable way to go.  Anything less will cost you time, wasted blades, and a lot of wasted wood.  Trying to make do will lead to a mountain of frustration.
 
Unless you are only doing a few passes, no steel blade will be worth buying.  The economy blades leave a really ugly surface -  really deep scarring.  The thin kerf steel resaw dull really quickly and a dull blade soon breaks.  These are false economy.  The carbide resaw blades last a long time,  but they are really expensive - I would not factor in the resharpening they advertise - they will break.  I have found that Lennox Diemaster bimetal blades are in the sweet spot. They last 80-90% as long as a carbide blade and the cost is about 1/4 as much. 

Do not overlook full sized old tools.  IMHO they are preferable to new ones for several reasons:
First, sturdy construction.  They have more machined cast iron and little or no plastic.
Belt driven.  Motors are easily replaced or switched to high HP if you decide to do so.
Fewer propriety parts.  Replacements like threaded fasteners can be found at the local Hardware store.
Availability of a wide variety of locally sourced blades.  A 14in bandsaw uses a standard 93-3/4in blade.
 
My 14in bandsaw is 45 years old and still going strong.  I have added a more powerful motor (belt driven) and have replaced the tires, tension spring and guide blocks, all with generic aftermarket parts.  I also replaced all adjustment thumb screws with socket head cap screws.  I doubt if any of the new small 9in saws will still be providing like new performance after 45 years of use.
 
Roger

Worse comes to worst, you can use a hitch chock.  With PVA, the strength of a bond is directly proportional to the clamping force.
 

Bob's admonition about making sure that dry fit conformation of the plank is correct is important.
 
Factors involved.
The diameter of the brass pin should be ~ 1-1.5" in scale.
The pre-drilled hole thru the three layers should be snug,  Not too snug if you intend to pull the pin.
The pin can be nipped and filed if brass trunnels are what you are after.
The hole placement is important.  There are prescribed rules for this.
If the pin is pulled, the hole can be filled with a push fit bamboo trunnel,  or wood flour/PVA if a belt and suspenders is not your practice.
 
If both surfaces are pre- coated with PVA and the coats allowed to cure, the plank can then be ironed and the heat will allow the PVA to act like a sort of contact cement.

I have not tried this, but it is something that I would possibly try.
 
Six:
I would start with the narrowest blade I could source.
I would do the cut fairly close to the handle and sacrifice a lot of the length.
I would separate the blade from the support to do the cuts.
I would take the outer end to a point.
When the blade is fitted back to the mount, I would drill a couple or three small holes thru the mount and top edge of the blade and secure the blade to the mount using eyeglasses size screws.
I would finally try the journal suggestion to greatly strengthen the cutoff wheel that I would use to do this by adding a coat of thin clear epoxy on either side of each wheel.
 
The experience from this experiment would be worth the cost of a Zona or similar blade.
Wait a tick:
when I checked MM to see what are the brands for economy razor saws,  I see that Zona sells two keyhole style blades - no top edge support at the root, but?
I would probably see if a short piece of a scroll saw blade would do the trick.  A wide choice to TPI are available there.

I have not tried this, but it is something that I would possibly try.
 
Six:
I would start with the narrowest blade I could source.
I would do the cut fairly close to the handle and sacrifice a lot of the length.
I would separate the blade from the support to do the cuts.
I would take the outer end to a point.
When the blade is fitted back to the mount, I would drill a couple or three small holes thru the mount and top edge of the blade and secure the blade to the mount using eyeglasses size screws.
I would finally try the journal suggestion to greatly strengthen the cutoff wheel that I would use to do this by adding a coat of thin clear epoxy on either side of each wheel.
 
The experience from this experiment would be worth the cost of a Zona or similar blade.
Wait a tick:
when I checked MM to see what are the brands for economy razor saws,  I see that Zona sells two keyhole style blades - no top edge support at the root, but?
I would probably see if a short piece of a scroll saw blade would do the trick.  A wide choice to TPI are available there.

I have not tried this, but it is something that I would possibly try.
 
Six:
I would start with the narrowest blade I could source.
I would do the cut fairly close to the handle and sacrifice a lot of the length.
I would separate the blade from the support to do the cuts.
I would take the outer end to a point.
When the blade is fitted back to the mount, I would drill a couple or three small holes thru the mount and top edge of the blade and secure the blade to the mount using eyeglasses size screws.
I would finally try the journal suggestion to greatly strengthen the cutoff wheel that I would use to do this by adding a coat of thin clear epoxy on either side of each wheel.
 
The experience from this experiment would be worth the cost of a Zona or similar blade.
Wait a tick:
when I checked MM to see what are the brands for economy razor saws,  I see that Zona sells two keyhole style blades - no top edge support at the root, but?
I would probably see if a short piece of a scroll saw blade would do the trick.  A wide choice to TPI are available there.

I have not tried this, but it is something that I would possibly try.
 
Six:
I would start with the narrowest blade I could source.
I would do the cut fairly close to the handle and sacrifice a lot of the length.
I would separate the blade from the support to do the cuts.
I would take the outer end to a point.
When the blade is fitted back to the mount, I would drill a couple or three small holes thru the mount and top edge of the blade and secure the blade to the mount using eyeglasses size screws.
I would finally try the journal suggestion to greatly strengthen the cutoff wheel that I would use to do this by adding a coat of thin clear epoxy on either side of each wheel.
 
The experience from this experiment would be worth the cost of a Zona or similar blade.
Wait a tick:
when I checked MM to see what are the brands for economy razor saws,  I see that Zona sells two keyhole style blades - no top edge support at the root, but?
I would probably see if a short piece of a scroll saw blade would do the trick.  A wide choice to TPI are available there.

I have not tried this, but it is something that I would possibly try.
 
Six:
I would start with the narrowest blade I could source.
I would do the cut fairly close to the handle and sacrifice a lot of the length.
I would separate the blade from the support to do the cuts.
I would take the outer end to a point.
When the blade is fitted back to the mount, I would drill a couple or three small holes thru the mount and top edge of the blade and secure the blade to the mount using eyeglasses size screws.
I would finally try the journal suggestion to greatly strengthen the cutoff wheel that I would use to do this by adding a coat of thin clear epoxy on either side of each wheel.
 
The experience from this experiment would be worth the cost of a Zona or similar blade.
Wait a tick:
when I checked MM to see what are the brands for economy razor saws,  I see that Zona sells two keyhole style blades - no top edge support at the root, but?
I would probably see if a short piece of a scroll saw blade would do the trick.  A wide choice to TPI are available there.

Depending on what and how you are cutting   an alternative is a violin makers knife.  They are #11 in shape.  There is a range of widths: 3.5mm to 19mm.
Stropping frequently will provide a sharp edge.  A task that breaks disposable blades is probably better done with one of these.

Depending on what and how you are cutting   an alternative is a violin makers knife.  They are #11 in shape.  There is a range of widths: 3.5mm to 19mm.
Stropping frequently will provide a sharp edge.  A task that breaks disposable blades is probably better done with one of these.

Depending on what and how you are cutting   an alternative is a violin makers knife.  They are #11 in shape.  There is a range of widths: 3.5mm to 19mm.
Stropping frequently will provide a sharp edge.  A task that breaks disposable blades is probably better done with one of these.

Depending on what and how you are cutting   an alternative is a violin makers knife.  They are #11 in shape.  There is a range of widths: 3.5mm to 19mm.
Stropping frequently will provide a sharp edge.  A task that breaks disposable blades is probably better done with one of these.

One tool not often listed is a piece of scrap leather and a stick of green or gold or rouge polishing compound. For knives and chisels, frequent stropping intervals can keep a sharp edge, and reduce the need for honing on a "stone".

Two parts of this that I recall from my mental database:
The two ledges between deck beams do not butt at 90 degrees. There is a scarph.
The hanging knees do sit below the deck beams. They scarph at the side of the beam.  They are at one side or the other.  Bolts and trunnels hold better and the downward stress is spread over the whole.
I could be remembering this wrong.
 
The original definition of the verb "to scarph"  describes two timbers meeting side by side.   It evolved  and as a noun, it came to describe an in line end to end joinery.
This seems to fit:  verb = side grain to side grain.  noun  end grain to end grain.

One tool not often listed is a piece of scrap leather and a stick of green or gold or rouge polishing compound. For knives and chisels, frequent stropping intervals can keep a sharp edge, and reduce the need for honing on a "stone".

Worse comes to worst, you can use a hitch chock.  With PVA, the strength of a bond is directly proportional to the clamping force.
 

Bob's admonition about making sure that dry fit conformation of the plank is correct is important.
 
Factors involved.
The diameter of the brass pin should be ~ 1-1.5" in scale.
The pre-drilled hole thru the three layers should be snug,  Not too snug if you intend to pull the pin.
The pin can be nipped and filed if brass trunnels are what you are after.
The hole placement is important.  There are prescribed rules for this.
If the pin is pulled, the hole can be filled with a push fit bamboo trunnel,  or wood flour/PVA if a belt and suspenders is not your practice.
 
If both surfaces are pre- coated with PVA and the coats allowed to cure, the plank can then be ironed and the heat will allow the PVA to act like a sort of contact cement.

Worse comes to worst, you can use a hitch chock.  With PVA, the strength of a bond is directly proportional to the clamping force.
 

Bob's admonition about making sure that dry fit conformation of the plank is correct is important.
 
Factors involved.
The diameter of the brass pin should be ~ 1-1.5" in scale.
The pre-drilled hole thru the three layers should be snug,  Not too snug if you intend to pull the pin.
The pin can be nipped and filed if brass trunnels are what you are after.
The hole placement is important.  There are prescribed rules for this.
If the pin is pulled, the hole can be filled with a push fit bamboo trunnel,  or wood flour/PVA if a belt and suspenders is not your practice.
 
If both surfaces are pre- coated with PVA and the coats allowed to cure, the plank can then be ironed and the heat will allow the PVA to act like a sort of contact cement.

One tool not often listed is a piece of scrap leather and a stick of green or gold or rouge polishing compound. For knives and chisels, frequent stropping intervals can keep a sharp edge, and reduce the need for honing on a "stone".

One tool not often listed is a piece of scrap leather and a stick of green or gold or rouge polishing compound. For knives and chisels, frequent stropping intervals can keep a sharp edge, and reduce the need for honing on a "stone".

The stern at that level is curved.  There is more that one counter timber.  This is showing that the one(s) closer to the side also rest on this transom projection.