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The smaller ones fit in a smaller "handle". (see arrow)
Other than that they do the same thing (for me)

 

Ps 

There are no dumb questions, only dumb answers 😉

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Regards, Patrick

 

Finished :  Soleil Royal Heller 1/100   Wasa Billing Boats   Bounty Revell 1/110 plastic (semi scratch)   Pelican / Golden Hind  1/45 scratch

Current build :  Mary Rose 1/50 scratch

Gallery Revell Bounty  Pelican/Golden hind 1/45 scratch

To do Prins Willem Corel, Le Tonnant Corel, Yacht d'Oro Corel, Thermopylae Sergal 

 

Shore leave,  non ship models build logs :  

ADGZ M35 funkwagen 1/72    Einhets Pkw. Kfz.2 and 4 1/72   Autoblinda AB40 1/72   122mm A-19 & 152mm ML-20 & 12.8cm Pak.44 {K8 1/2} 1/72   10.5cm Howitzer 16 on Mark. VI(e)  Centurion Mk.1 conversion   M29 Weasel 1/72     SAM6 1/72    T26 Finland  T26 TN 1/72  Autoprotetto S37 1/72     Opel Blitz buses 1/72  Boxer and MAN trucks 1/72   Hetzer38(t) Starr 1/72    

 

Si vis pacem, para bellum

 
 
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The larger ones are #2 blades and I am not sure why but they are pricy and I have not found a source for 50 or 100 packs like I can the #11 blades.

Paul

Current Build: HMS Winchelsea 1764 1:48

Completed Build: HM Cutter Cheerful-Syren Ship Models 1/48

Completed Build:  Artesania Latina Bluenose II

Completed Build Lady Nelson

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A chart of the blades and their uses 

https://www.industrialelectronics.biz/xacto/blade1.htm

 

This conveniently gives the codes for bulk packs so:

 

Pack of 100 #2 (X602)

US - https://www.amazon.com/X-acto-X602-Blades-100-Pack/dp/B000789P4M/ref=asc_df_B000789P4M

CAN - https://www.amazon.ca/X-Acto-X602-Blades-Knives-Bulk/dp/B000789P4M/

UK - ?

 

Richard

Current Build: Early 19th Century US Revenue Cutter (Artesania Latina "Dallas" - messed about)

Completed Build: Yakatabune - Japanese - Woody Joe mini

Member: Nautical Research Guild & Midwest Model Shipwrights

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Jonesy,  For future consideration, look at scalpel blades and handle.  The handles are not round so do not roll off the bench onto the floor or stick in your leg.  They are sharper and available in packs of 100.  Swann Morton is the brand I have been using since switching from Xacto for blades, but there are probably others.   No need to get the sterile blades which tend to be more expensive.  I still love Xacto for key hole saw blades and such.  

Allan

PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

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Depending on what and how you are cutting   an alternative is a violin makers knife.  They are #11 in shape.  There is a range of widths: 3.5mm to 19mm.

Stropping frequently will provide a sharp edge.  A task that breaks disposable blades is probably better done with one of these.

NRG member 45 years

 

Current:  

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner -  framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner -  timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835  ship - timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

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Scalpel blades are indeed more susceptible to breaking.  If the cut is so much that it could break a blade I go to a honed chisel which would be a more appropriate tool for that particular task.  I have found over the years that  Xacto or scalpel blades are not the end all to every job that requires a sharp edge.   Whatever anyone feels works best for them and gets the job done in the end is always the best choice. 😄

PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

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I sue both scalpels and craft knives. The comments about scalpel blades breaking are true, but only if you force it a bit. My main problem with craft knives is that the handles keep undoing themselves so the blade keeps coming loose. I've come to terms with it to a certain degree, but I still prefer scalpels.

 

Steven

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3 hours ago, shipman said:

A million surgeons can't be wrong!

Current build HMC Sherbourne - Caldercraft Model (Log in progress)

 

Next plannned build - the Mary Rose Jotika kit

 

In Reseach - HMS Tyger 1661

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The common disposable scalpel blades are not meant for wrenching, i.e. side-forces, they are meant for straight downward cuts in the plane of blade. Swann-Morton and similar suppliers also make 'post-mortem' blades that are thicker and hence stronger, but I think they are more expensive and not so easy to find on ebay etc.

 

In the old days at least they made pretty heavy scalpels. My father trained as a medical doctor in the late 1930s/early 1940s and I inherited from him a set of heavy anatomical/post-mortem scalpels with nice ebony handles. The blades can be honed very sharp.

 

It is always useful to make oneself aware of what happens, when you cut something with a knife-edge tool: you basically drive a wedge into the material in question. The thinner the wedge, the easier it is to drive it in. To drive the wedge in, you have to displace material. The tougher the material, the more difficult it is obviously to displace it. And here comes our impatience into play: we want to remove as much as possible with a single cut. But the tougher the material, the thinner the shaving etc. should be. Removing the material in layers/steps is often the answer to flexing blades - it makes wrenching the blade unnecessary. Thinking strategically into which direction the material needs to be displaced also allows you to make relieving cuts first.

wefalck

 

panta rhei - Everything is in flux

 

 

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Ian, your comment "A million surgeons can't be wrong!".......

 

The Supatool handles and blades are a little larger,stronger, more secure versions of the scalpel type, just as sharp and will take serious abuse. The blades keep their edge longer and can also be honed/lapped, extending their life, which offsets their higher price.

 

I get no commission from the suppliers.

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