Jaager
-
Posts
3,084 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Reputation Activity
-
Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Planking pins/nails
Davis has a drawing to these. His name for them is hutchocks. If the scrap is fairly thick, there is room to insert the tip of a curved Kelly clamp to grip the pin after the scrap is split out.
rotation usually breaks the glue bond. A buffer under the Kelly to protect planking, it makes for an effective prise.
The chock is a good idea in any case, but since the planks are to be covered by a 2nd layer, the pins could be flush nipped and filed flush.
There are museum models from France that have brass trunnels showing.
There are also recent photos of model restoration where iron (steel) pins where used. After a hundred years or three the nails were oxidized and gone, leaving a black stain on the planking.
So, anywhere there is any danger of a pin being not removable, it is wise to only use brass or copper pins.
-
Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Restoration of 80 Plus year Old "Sailors Model"
There was a time when sails were made using a drafting medium that was a very fine cloth. The "starch" binder was extracted. I have never encountered this material. It could be this.
If you consult a museum conservator, a save way to clean may be suggested. It sounds like it the material is hardy. I am imagining that repeated rinsing repeatedly with distilled water would remove water soluble concretions. The likely contributor to the yellowing is the condensed volatile products of tobacco combustion. This is really nasty stuff to remove.
When done, it needs its own case.
-
Jaager got a reaction from deadbrotherbear in Ship's Boat Oar Length
To add to this topic I am posting - with Guild permission as copy of the data provided to NRJ subscribers in 1979.
It is from USN Standards 1900
oars.pdf
-
Jaager got a reaction from thibaultron in Sanding walnut after planking
A quality SS steel single edge razor blade does a far job of fine scraping. An attempt at producing a burr could be tried if you have a small carbide rod.
-
Jaager reacted to Charles Green in Restoration of 80 Plus year Old "Sailors Model"
I drew maps with pen and ink for a utility company in the mid-1980's. The medium you refer to was starched linen. The starch would take ink and with care, the ink could be erased. With a linen substrate, the maps could be folded many times and left folded without the danger of separating along the folds. After so many revisions an old map had to be copied on to new material. Some of the copied maps were 3X4 feet in dimension. I would bring them to my Mom. She had a dress-making/tailoring business at home. She would wash the starch out and use the fine linen for making baby clothes.
If you can find a source of old maps, ones without historical significance, you will have all the fine linen you will need.
-
Jaager got a reaction from druxey in Restoration of 80 Plus year Old "Sailors Model"
There was a time when sails were made using a drafting medium that was a very fine cloth. The "starch" binder was extracted. I have never encountered this material. It could be this.
If you consult a museum conservator, a save way to clean may be suggested. It sounds like it the material is hardy. I am imagining that repeated rinsing repeatedly with distilled water would remove water soluble concretions. The likely contributor to the yellowing is the condensed volatile products of tobacco combustion. This is really nasty stuff to remove.
When done, it needs its own case.
-
Jaager got a reaction from Larry Cowden in Ship's Boat Oar Length
To add to this topic I am posting - with Guild permission as copy of the data provided to NRJ subscribers in 1979.
It is from USN Standards 1900
oars.pdf
-
Jaager reacted to Bob Cleek in Sanding walnut after planking
Most people find using a much finer sanding grit than 150 for final finishing work, usually at least 320, and do not attempt to finish coat open pored wood species like walnut without first using a filler. That produces a perfectly smooth "furniture grade" finish, if that is what one is shooting for.
-
Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Ship's Boat Oar Length
To add to this topic I am posting - with Guild permission as copy of the data provided to NRJ subscribers in 1979.
It is from USN Standards 1900
oars.pdf
-
Jaager got a reaction from gieb8688 in Ship's Boat Oar Length
To add to this topic I am posting - with Guild permission as copy of the data provided to NRJ subscribers in 1979.
It is from USN Standards 1900
oars.pdf
-
Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Ship's Boat Oar Length
The length of oar per boat type and the number of them are in a table in W E May.
It is from 1886 but should provide realistic data.
I f you do not have a copy, list the various boat types and their lengths and I will extract the specific data.
-
Jaager got a reaction from gieb8688 in Ship's Boat Oar Length
The length of oar per boat type and the number of them are in a table in W E May.
It is from 1886 but should provide realistic data.
I f you do not have a copy, list the various boat types and their lengths and I will extract the specific data.
-
Jaager reacted to Roger Pellett in Seeking help to identify this ship only
If this helps the ship type is called a Galleon. This was a major type of ship used between about 1550 and 1650. It was armed with cannons and could be used both as a warship and to transport valuable cargos. These ships were used by the Spanish to transport the vast wealth from their American Colonies and both sides used galleons in the battles of the Spanish Armada. Galleons rate high in public imagination so many models of them have been built.
I agree that your particular model is what we would call a decorator quality model. It is not built to any particular scale, and is only an approximation of what current scholarship believes the real thing looks like.
Ship modeling can be a lifetime hobby and this might be the perfect opportunity for your son and his grandfather to do something together. I would suggest that you get your son a book or two about Galleons, the Spanish Armada, etc. so he gains an appreciation of the history behind the model.
Roger
-
Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Jim Byrnes Thickness Sander
Which just fortifies my compulsion that joints should be clamped as tightly as possible, but no crushing of wood fibers.
Planing and scraping produces a clean surface - good for gluing. Sanding fills the pores, which is not all that good.
I think it was an old Sci Am, or the short lived popular edition of Science article about either Stradivari or Guarneri that noted that their violins were probably scraped - the pores were free of wood flour under the clear finish.
Take home was that scraping was a good thing to do as a final step.
-
Jaager got a reaction from GuntherMT in Gift Ideas
The situation is complicated. As for tools, although enthusiasm often leads to wasted money as far as tools, even your father probably does not realize which tools
he needs until he needs that specific job done.
It may be wiser to get:
A gift certificate to a special tool vendor:
Lee Valey
Japan Woodworker
Lie-NielsenToolworks
or
A subject specific book:
The 100-Gun Ship Victory (Anatomy of the Ship) by John McKay
The Anatomy of Nelson's Ships Hardcover by C. Nepean Longridge
But for something unexpected but better than what he is likely to know about:
Japan Woodworker #156382 1/8" double bevel Blue Steel knife
It also needs a piece of scrap leather and a fine honing compound like Flexcut Gold
Compared to Xacto type #11 blades - both will do the job, but the knife it like having Lamborghini instead of a Ford
or from StewMac
Item Price Qty Total
Japanese Super Fine-Cut Saw
Item # 3617
$39.48 1 $39.48
Japanese Curved-edge Mini Saw
Item # 3612
$28.30 1 $28.30
StewMac Ultimate Scraper, Mini
Item # 0632
$28.07 1 $28.07
The curved-edge saw works a trick in crosscutting
-
Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Gift Ideas
The situation is complicated. As for tools, although enthusiasm often leads to wasted money as far as tools, even your father probably does not realize which tools
he needs until he needs that specific job done.
It may be wiser to get:
A gift certificate to a special tool vendor:
Lee Valey
Japan Woodworker
Lie-NielsenToolworks
or
A subject specific book:
The 100-Gun Ship Victory (Anatomy of the Ship) by John McKay
The Anatomy of Nelson's Ships Hardcover by C. Nepean Longridge
But for something unexpected but better than what he is likely to know about:
Japan Woodworker #156382 1/8" double bevel Blue Steel knife
It also needs a piece of scrap leather and a fine honing compound like Flexcut Gold
Compared to Xacto type #11 blades - both will do the job, but the knife it like having Lamborghini instead of a Ford
or from StewMac
Item Price Qty Total
Japanese Super Fine-Cut Saw
Item # 3617
$39.48 1 $39.48
Japanese Curved-edge Mini Saw
Item # 3612
$28.30 1 $28.30
StewMac Ultimate Scraper, Mini
Item # 0632
$28.07 1 $28.07
The curved-edge saw works a trick in crosscutting
-
Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Jim Byrnes Thickness Sander
Which just fortifies my compulsion that joints should be clamped as tightly as possible, but no crushing of wood fibers.
Planing and scraping produces a clean surface - good for gluing. Sanding fills the pores, which is not all that good.
I think it was an old Sci Am, or the short lived popular edition of Science article about either Stradivari or Guarneri that noted that their violins were probably scraped - the pores were free of wood flour under the clear finish.
Take home was that scraping was a good thing to do as a final step.
-
Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Gift Ideas
The situation is complicated. As for tools, although enthusiasm often leads to wasted money as far as tools, even your father probably does not realize which tools
he needs until he needs that specific job done.
It may be wiser to get:
A gift certificate to a special tool vendor:
Lee Valey
Japan Woodworker
Lie-NielsenToolworks
or
A subject specific book:
The 100-Gun Ship Victory (Anatomy of the Ship) by John McKay
The Anatomy of Nelson's Ships Hardcover by C. Nepean Longridge
But for something unexpected but better than what he is likely to know about:
Japan Woodworker #156382 1/8" double bevel Blue Steel knife
It also needs a piece of scrap leather and a fine honing compound like Flexcut Gold
Compared to Xacto type #11 blades - both will do the job, but the knife it like having Lamborghini instead of a Ford
or from StewMac
Item Price Qty Total
Japanese Super Fine-Cut Saw
Item # 3617
$39.48 1 $39.48
Japanese Curved-edge Mini Saw
Item # 3612
$28.30 1 $28.30
StewMac Ultimate Scraper, Mini
Item # 0632
$28.07 1 $28.07
The curved-edge saw works a trick in crosscutting
-
Jaager got a reaction from leclaire in Gift Ideas
The situation is complicated. As for tools, although enthusiasm often leads to wasted money as far as tools, even your father probably does not realize which tools
he needs until he needs that specific job done.
It may be wiser to get:
A gift certificate to a special tool vendor:
Lee Valey
Japan Woodworker
Lie-NielsenToolworks
or
A subject specific book:
The 100-Gun Ship Victory (Anatomy of the Ship) by John McKay
The Anatomy of Nelson's Ships Hardcover by C. Nepean Longridge
But for something unexpected but better than what he is likely to know about:
Japan Woodworker #156382 1/8" double bevel Blue Steel knife
It also needs a piece of scrap leather and a fine honing compound like Flexcut Gold
Compared to Xacto type #11 blades - both will do the job, but the knife it like having Lamborghini instead of a Ford
or from StewMac
Item Price Qty Total
Japanese Super Fine-Cut Saw
Item # 3617
$39.48 1 $39.48
Japanese Curved-edge Mini Saw
Item # 3612
$28.30 1 $28.30
StewMac Ultimate Scraper, Mini
Item # 0632
$28.07 1 $28.07
The curved-edge saw works a trick in crosscutting
-
Jaager got a reaction from Bob Cleek in Jim Byrnes Thickness Sander
Which just fortifies my compulsion that joints should be clamped as tightly as possible, but no crushing of wood fibers.
Planing and scraping produces a clean surface - good for gluing. Sanding fills the pores, which is not all that good.
I think it was an old Sci Am, or the short lived popular edition of Science article about either Stradivari or Guarneri that noted that their violins were probably scraped - the pores were free of wood flour under the clear finish.
Take home was that scraping was a good thing to do as a final step.
-
Jaager got a reaction from John Cheevers in Jim Byrnes Thickness Sander
Which just fortifies my compulsion that joints should be clamped as tightly as possible, but no crushing of wood fibers.
Planing and scraping produces a clean surface - good for gluing. Sanding fills the pores, which is not all that good.
I think it was an old Sci Am, or the short lived popular edition of Science article about either Stradivari or Guarneri that noted that their violins were probably scraped - the pores were free of wood flour under the clear finish.
Take home was that scraping was a good thing to do as a final step.
-
Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in 2nd Planking With Veneer
Gregory,
An otherwise excellent planking job is somewhat marred by a species choice that could be replaced by a better one.
Walnut, especially Black Walnut (Juglans nigra) is a much preferred wood for most any full size project. But for scale work, I stay away from species that are open pore. If the surface is magnified a bit, it resembles corduroy. The linear grooves do not show on closed pore wood - like Hard Maple, AYC, Black Cherry, Yellow Poplar, any fruitwood. A dye can get many species having the Walnut shade. It is to fill the grooves - that sanding sealer was developed. It is a produce with no purpose if a closed pore species is used.
-
Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Jim Byrnes Thickness Sander
Allan,
I have read that 220 grit is about the limit for the surface smoothness for components that will be joined using PVA. 400 grit may leave a surface with not enough tooth for the polymers to attach to efficiently.
Like you, I progress - bulk 80 grit, dress the 80 scarring with 120-150 grit - 1-2 passes. Finish with 220 grit. On my old 11" drum, I had all three.
-
Jaager reacted to mtaylor in La Belle Poule 1765 by mtaylor - Scale 1:64 - POB - French Frigate from ANCRE plans
Just brief status update.... not dead in the water but just slow going due to outside events and some stupidity on my part. Discovered after putting on 4 strakes, getting the gunports squared away on that I blew it. Stupid error... used the wrong width of planks. <sigh> Had the saw setup for 1/4" cuts for the wales and somewhere in the mists of the last few weeks/months, forgot to change the cut width to 3/16". <sigh> Had to rip off the 4 strakes, clean up the hull and re-cut the cut wood for the correct size. I think I'm going to take the day off, engage in some web browsing along with some strong drinks.
-
Jaager got a reaction from dvm27 in Jim Byrnes Thickness Sander
Allan,
I have read that 220 grit is about the limit for the surface smoothness for components that will be joined using PVA. 400 grit may leave a surface with not enough tooth for the polymers to attach to efficiently.
Like you, I progress - bulk 80 grit, dress the 80 scarring with 120-150 grit - 1-2 passes. Finish with 220 grit. On my old 11" drum, I had all three.
Our Emblem ®
