Jaager
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Craft knife
It will hold any blade that has the same insert as the #11 blade has.
This handle tightens using a knurled knob at the back end.
There is a larger and similar handle for the large blades - the router blades and similar - not what you need for the job mentioned though.
This is the one that I am discussing :
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Craft knife
I like the shape of the Fiskars Softgrip Ergonomic Detail Knife for hand feel.
A very common blade is the #11 shape. Getting a 100 pack of a high quality #11 blade, not the OEM version is my choice.
When researching this, I just discovered that XActo - which as not been my choice for blades - has a XZ series that has a zirconium nitride coating
Feedback suggests that the hard coating makes the tip prone to snapping off - especially with lateral force. If your cuts are straight line they might work.
An alternate direction is a double bevel 1/4" violin makers knife. #11 shape - just a bar of steel with no handle. Expensive but it is lifetime for one. There are maybe 6 widths.
With both disposable and permanent blades, very frequent shroping on leather charged with a green, red, or gold polishing compound crayon keeps a fine edge and reduces changes. I do not know if zirconium is harder than the compounds. It may require diamond.
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Craft knife
It will hold any blade that has the same insert as the #11 blade has.
This handle tightens using a knurled knob at the back end.
There is a larger and similar handle for the large blades - the router blades and similar - not what you need for the job mentioned though.
This is the one that I am discussing :
-
Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Craft knife
I like the shape of the Fiskars Softgrip Ergonomic Detail Knife for hand feel.
A very common blade is the #11 shape. Getting a 100 pack of a high quality #11 blade, not the OEM version is my choice.
When researching this, I just discovered that XActo - which as not been my choice for blades - has a XZ series that has a zirconium nitride coating
Feedback suggests that the hard coating makes the tip prone to snapping off - especially with lateral force. If your cuts are straight line they might work.
An alternate direction is a double bevel 1/4" violin makers knife. #11 shape - just a bar of steel with no handle. Expensive but it is lifetime for one. There are maybe 6 widths.
With both disposable and permanent blades, very frequent shroping on leather charged with a green, red, or gold polishing compound crayon keeps a fine edge and reduces changes. I do not know if zirconium is harder than the compounds. It may require diamond.
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Jaager got a reaction from allanyed in Craft knife
I like the shape of the Fiskars Softgrip Ergonomic Detail Knife for hand feel.
A very common blade is the #11 shape. Getting a 100 pack of a high quality #11 blade, not the OEM version is my choice.
When researching this, I just discovered that XActo - which as not been my choice for blades - has a XZ series that has a zirconium nitride coating
Feedback suggests that the hard coating makes the tip prone to snapping off - especially with lateral force. If your cuts are straight line they might work.
An alternate direction is a double bevel 1/4" violin makers knife. #11 shape - just a bar of steel with no handle. Expensive but it is lifetime for one. There are maybe 6 widths.
With both disposable and permanent blades, very frequent shroping on leather charged with a green, red, or gold polishing compound crayon keeps a fine edge and reduces changes. I do not know if zirconium is harder than the compounds. It may require diamond.
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Jaager got a reaction from Niko in Mini Bench Drill Press
Exactly this and for me, a momentary foot switch. I drill a lot of holes in the same board, so I have one hand for the leaver, one hand to position the work, and I do not want the spinning to start until the bit tip is in the divot.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Hello from Seattle - looking to buy a built ship
The mass produced objects are not actual ship models in any meaningful perspective. They are decorator kitsch that happen to have a vague ship-like shape.
You have several options for an actual ship model.
Buy an actual scratch built ship model one that is one off and unique- an expensive choice - you would still be getting a real deal as far as compensation per hour .
Buy a finished kit model - in the real world - not on the site companies that sell finished product - a finished model seems to be worth what was the cost of the original kit. Often, this would be something sold by the family of a deceased model builder. I am betting that if you bought a finished kit model from a website - the price would be far more than just the original kit, but if you tried to sell it - all you would receive would be what the kit sells for. It is not an investment.
Buy a completed kit hull and mast and rig it yourself - something worked out 1:1 - but you would probably find that masting and rigging is much more involved than a cursory view suggests.
Go to Model Expo and buy the first kit in the Model Shipways Shipwright Series - probably more rewarding and productive.
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Jaager got a reaction from Keith Black in Hello from Seattle - looking to buy a built ship
The mass produced objects are not actual ship models in any meaningful perspective. They are decorator kitsch that happen to have a vague ship-like shape.
You have several options for an actual ship model.
Buy an actual scratch built ship model one that is one off and unique- an expensive choice - you would still be getting a real deal as far as compensation per hour .
Buy a finished kit model - in the real world - not on the site companies that sell finished product - a finished model seems to be worth what was the cost of the original kit. Often, this would be something sold by the family of a deceased model builder. I am betting that if you bought a finished kit model from a website - the price would be far more than just the original kit, but if you tried to sell it - all you would receive would be what the kit sells for. It is not an investment.
Buy a completed kit hull and mast and rig it yourself - something worked out 1:1 - but you would probably find that masting and rigging is much more involved than a cursory view suggests.
Go to Model Expo and buy the first kit in the Model Shipways Shipwright Series - probably more rewarding and productive.
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Mini Bench Drill Press
Exactly this and for me, a momentary foot switch. I drill a lot of holes in the same board, so I have one hand for the leaver, one hand to position the work, and I do not want the spinning to start until the bit tip is in the divot.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Mini Bench Drill Press
Exactly this and for me, a momentary foot switch. I drill a lot of holes in the same board, so I have one hand for the leaver, one hand to position the work, and I do not want the spinning to start until the bit tip is in the divot.
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Jaager got a reaction from Gregory in Mini Bench Drill Press
Exactly this and for me, a momentary foot switch. I drill a lot of holes in the same board, so I have one hand for the leaver, one hand to position the work, and I do not want the spinning to start until the bit tip is in the divot.
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Jaager reacted to Roger Pellett in Mini Bench Drill Press
I drill small holes using a sensitive drilling attachment in my Sherline milling column. For reasons not understood, I don’t have the touch for using the carbide drills with the larger 1/8” diameter shafts that can be chucked in a Jacobs Chuck or a collet. I, therefore, drill with HSS wire size drills. My drilling attachment does not accept collets so I use the provided Jacobs Chuck.
I have noticed that the drills bits themselves are not necessarily straight. While the chuck runs true, there is often a slight wobble of the drill bit itself. On the other hand, these tiny wire sized drills will “find” any slight center punched depression nearby.
It appears to me that the key to accurate drilling is marking out and center punching holes in the first place followed by correct lining up of the center punch mark beneath the drill bit. While this might not be good enough for true miniature machining it will produce results good enough for our purposes.
Roger
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Second planking done.....what do you do to fine it up.
I checked the AL site. The kit description in the advertising was over the top, but it did not indicate whether the kit was of the original later 18th century ship or the present replica.
For a detailed model, the ANCRE monograph contains all of the detail that should be wished for.
I suggest that you fare the planking layer. With boards that wide, a lot may have to be removed to get a smooth curve. Consider what you have to be a two layer POB build. Study - really hard - on what the actual planking looked like - and the tutorials for how to plank.
As a first layer, the gaps between the planks can remain as they are. Using a gap filling product will not make it a better support for an outer planking. The second layer will hide the first. The gaps will be covered over.
The scantlings for planking width - I would guess that what you show would be 2-3 feet wide in scale - instead of the 6" +/- on a ship. The garboard strake may have been scribed from 12" wide stock if such was available. Getting boards even near that wide to lay flat on the surface of a curved frame - does not seem like something that could happen.
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Jaager got a reaction from modeller_masa in Second planking done.....what do you do to fine it up.
I checked the AL site. The kit description in the advertising was over the top, but it did not indicate whether the kit was of the original later 18th century ship or the present replica.
For a detailed model, the ANCRE monograph contains all of the detail that should be wished for.
I suggest that you fare the planking layer. With boards that wide, a lot may have to be removed to get a smooth curve. Consider what you have to be a two layer POB build. Study - really hard - on what the actual planking looked like - and the tutorials for how to plank.
As a first layer, the gaps between the planks can remain as they are. Using a gap filling product will not make it a better support for an outer planking. The second layer will hide the first. The gaps will be covered over.
The scantlings for planking width - I would guess that what you show would be 2-3 feet wide in scale - instead of the 6" +/- on a ship. The garboard strake may have been scribed from 12" wide stock if such was available. Getting boards even near that wide to lay flat on the surface of a curved frame - does not seem like something that could happen.
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Jaager got a reaction from Roger Pellett in Plywood for bulkheads
My back of the envelope calc has the Home Depot endcap 2x4's coming in at ~ $0.75 per BF. If you have the tools to cut them, that price is difficult to beat.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Does cherry carve well?
I have stated before that I think that Apple is king. I would choose it over anything else for frames, beams, wales, rails. It is a dream to scrape for a decorative mold. However, I can find very little on line. What I can find is very expensive and not the dark red straight grain stock that I want.
Two foot length, 8x4 heart wood that is " cheap and plentiful" is something that can only dream about. Will you provide a source?
I have been thinking that Crabtree used Washington Hawthorn for a lot of his carving stock. He called it "firethorn". I believe that he was originally from the Pacific northwest. Of late, I have begun to wonder if it could have been most any species of Hawthorn that he gathered while in Washington state?
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Does cherry carve well?
I have stated before that I think that Apple is king. I would choose it over anything else for frames, beams, wales, rails. It is a dream to scrape for a decorative mold. However, I can find very little on line. What I can find is very expensive and not the dark red straight grain stock that I want.
Two foot length, 8x4 heart wood that is " cheap and plentiful" is something that can only dream about. Will you provide a source?
I have been thinking that Crabtree used Washington Hawthorn for a lot of his carving stock. He called it "firethorn". I believe that he was originally from the Pacific northwest. Of late, I have begun to wonder if it could have been most any species of Hawthorn that he gathered while in Washington state?
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in What kind, brand and where do you buy your end mills?
I am having a difficult time imagining where I would need to make any of the three cuts in wood.
For an outside shape, a sanding drum -slower, but more forgiving.
A slitting/slotting blade for a thru channel
A burr for short.
The tip of a 220 twist drill for a rabbet- but in hind sight, I think a chisel would have been wiser - much slower - but wiser.
In any case, I would want to get the wood shaving out. If doing that affects the edge or surface, I would use a different tool.
For wood - slow and shallow?
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Byrnes table saw blades….
Donna is filling orders for accessories. I have completed two successful transactions last month.
I bought replicates of the disposable or easily misplaced parts for my collection of Byrnes machines - in case she does go dark.
I bought a 22015 DIABLO 4 3/8 X 36 ATB TRIM SAW FINISH BLADE D0436X 1 $14.99 from Peachtree even though I dislike the kerf it takes.
I bought the requisite bushing adapters that Jim made a couple of weeks ago.
I think it is has pretty much devolved to Malco for a producer of 3" and 4" blades for thin stock. The part of their inventory that Model Machines provides is at a reasonable cost and as been filtered to meet our needs.
If you do not have a few of the arbor bushing adapters for blades with 1" arbors already, it would be wise to obtain them.
Thurston did not survive a generation change.
Martindale used to be a source, but although I see blades in their site, there is no indication of any of them being in inventory. I suspect that they are produced on demand - probably for more than we find reasonable.
I keep forgetting the name "Martindale" so a search on line brought up MSC - a vendor - the the prices!!!!!
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Jaager got a reaction from Gregory in Byrnes table saw blades….
Donna is filling orders for accessories. I have completed two successful transactions last month.
I bought replicates of the disposable or easily misplaced parts for my collection of Byrnes machines - in case she does go dark.
I bought a 22015 DIABLO 4 3/8 X 36 ATB TRIM SAW FINISH BLADE D0436X 1 $14.99 from Peachtree even though I dislike the kerf it takes.
I bought the requisite bushing adapters that Jim made a couple of weeks ago.
I think it is has pretty much devolved to Malco for a producer of 3" and 4" blades for thin stock. The part of their inventory that Model Machines provides is at a reasonable cost and as been filtered to meet our needs.
If you do not have a few of the arbor bushing adapters for blades with 1" arbors already, it would be wise to obtain them.
Thurston did not survive a generation change.
Martindale used to be a source, but although I see blades in their site, there is no indication of any of them being in inventory. I suspect that they are produced on demand - probably for more than we find reasonable.
I keep forgetting the name "Martindale" so a search on line brought up MSC - a vendor - the the prices!!!!!
-
Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in What kind, brand and where do you buy your end mills?
I am having a difficult time imagining where I would need to make any of the three cuts in wood.
For an outside shape, a sanding drum -slower, but more forgiving.
A slitting/slotting blade for a thru channel
A burr for short.
The tip of a 220 twist drill for a rabbet- but in hind sight, I think a chisel would have been wiser - much slower - but wiser.
In any case, I would want to get the wood shaving out. If doing that affects the edge or surface, I would use a different tool.
For wood - slow and shallow?
-
Jaager got a reaction from rlb in What kind, brand and where do you buy your end mills?
I am having a difficult time imagining where I would need to make any of the three cuts in wood.
For an outside shape, a sanding drum -slower, but more forgiving.
A slitting/slotting blade for a thru channel
A burr for short.
The tip of a 220 twist drill for a rabbet- but in hind sight, I think a chisel would have been wiser - much slower - but wiser.
In any case, I would want to get the wood shaving out. If doing that affects the edge or surface, I would use a different tool.
For wood - slow and shallow?
-
Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Byrnes table saw blades….
Donna is filling orders for accessories. I have completed two successful transactions last month.
I bought replicates of the disposable or easily misplaced parts for my collection of Byrnes machines - in case she does go dark.
I bought a 22015 DIABLO 4 3/8 X 36 ATB TRIM SAW FINISH BLADE D0436X 1 $14.99 from Peachtree even though I dislike the kerf it takes.
I bought the requisite bushing adapters that Jim made a couple of weeks ago.
I think it is has pretty much devolved to Malco for a producer of 3" and 4" blades for thin stock. The part of their inventory that Model Machines provides is at a reasonable cost and as been filtered to meet our needs.
If you do not have a few of the arbor bushing adapters for blades with 1" arbors already, it would be wise to obtain them.
Thurston did not survive a generation change.
Martindale used to be a source, but although I see blades in their site, there is no indication of any of them being in inventory. I suspect that they are produced on demand - probably for more than we find reasonable.
I keep forgetting the name "Martindale" so a search on line brought up MSC - a vendor - the the prices!!!!!
-
Jaager got a reaction from scrubbyj427 in Byrnes table saw blades….
Donna is filling orders for accessories. I have completed two successful transactions last month.
I bought replicates of the disposable or easily misplaced parts for my collection of Byrnes machines - in case she does go dark.
I bought a 22015 DIABLO 4 3/8 X 36 ATB TRIM SAW FINISH BLADE D0436X 1 $14.99 from Peachtree even though I dislike the kerf it takes.
I bought the requisite bushing adapters that Jim made a couple of weeks ago.
I think it is has pretty much devolved to Malco for a producer of 3" and 4" blades for thin stock. The part of their inventory that Model Machines provides is at a reasonable cost and as been filtered to meet our needs.
If you do not have a few of the arbor bushing adapters for blades with 1" arbors already, it would be wise to obtain them.
Thurston did not survive a generation change.
Martindale used to be a source, but although I see blades in their site, there is no indication of any of them being in inventory. I suspect that they are produced on demand - probably for more than we find reasonable.
I keep forgetting the name "Martindale" so a search on line brought up MSC - a vendor - the the prices!!!!!
-
Jaager got a reaction from GGibson in Byrnes table saw blades….
Donna is filling orders for accessories. I have completed two successful transactions last month.
I bought replicates of the disposable or easily misplaced parts for my collection of Byrnes machines - in case she does go dark.
I bought a 22015 DIABLO 4 3/8 X 36 ATB TRIM SAW FINISH BLADE D0436X 1 $14.99 from Peachtree even though I dislike the kerf it takes.
I bought the requisite bushing adapters that Jim made a couple of weeks ago.
I think it is has pretty much devolved to Malco for a producer of 3" and 4" blades for thin stock. The part of their inventory that Model Machines provides is at a reasonable cost and as been filtered to meet our needs.
If you do not have a few of the arbor bushing adapters for blades with 1" arbors already, it would be wise to obtain them.
Thurston did not survive a generation change.
Martindale used to be a source, but although I see blades in their site, there is no indication of any of them being in inventory. I suspect that they are produced on demand - probably for more than we find reasonable.
I keep forgetting the name "Martindale" so a search on line brought up MSC - a vendor - the the prices!!!!!
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