Jaager

One rule from biological research labs:  You can never have too much bench space.

If the content is public domain, they could be scanned, converted to PDF and posted online.  
An online search lists the publishing company as being dissolved.  Or, it looks like a job for Dover.

Gaetan,
 
Back in post #657, you wrote about working at different scales.  To offer an alternative way to look at this:  yes, the model @ 1:24 is twice as long as the one @ 1:48.   However, it is also twice as wide and twice as deep.  S0,  2 x 2 x 2 = 8.  The model @ 1:24 is 8 times larger than the one @ 1:48.   Going the other way,  when you were at true miniature @ 1:192 it is 0.015 the volume of 1:48.  Even @ 1:96 , the difference is actual size is more than it first appears.  The 1:48 is 8 times larger at this common reduction in scale   I am sure that the 1:24 model is using more that twice the number of board feet of lumber.  Maybe a little less than than 8 times more, since the loss to kerf is a smaller proportion,since that is a fixed amount.

Tom,
 
One thing to check = on many warships, the gun ports are parallelograms and not rectangles.  The sides are vertical ( or in the plane of the frames ).  The sill and lentil follows the slope of the deck at its location and not the LWL or horizon.

Jarrod,
Do yourself a favor,  saving yourself pointless stress and buy a copy of both books.  If 17th C. Dutch is a focus, then you will want both anyway.
You are lucky if you can still buy a copy of The Ships of Abel Tasman.  The time window is not as long as you imagine it to be.

Gaetan,
 
Back in post #657, you wrote about working at different scales.  To offer an alternative way to look at this:  yes, the model @ 1:24 is twice as long as the one @ 1:48.   However, it is also twice as wide and twice as deep.  S0,  2 x 2 x 2 = 8.  The model @ 1:24 is 8 times larger than the one @ 1:48.   Going the other way,  when you were at true miniature @ 1:192 it is 0.015 the volume of 1:48.  Even @ 1:96 , the difference is actual size is more than it first appears.  The 1:48 is 8 times larger at this common reduction in scale   I am sure that the 1:24 model is using more that twice the number of board feet of lumber.  Maybe a little less than than 8 times more, since the loss to kerf is a smaller proportion,since that is a fixed amount.

It's probably the case with most that making beveled rip cuts is a rather rare occasion. If necessary, it is a relatively simple thing to tape or temporarily glue a strip of wood beneath the edge of the piece opposite the side to be cut such that the strip raises the piece to be cut enough to angle the cut. Few will need the tilting table. Do get the fence extension. The fence is only 1/8" high. It's nice to have a bit more height in some ripping applications.
 
Definitely get the sliding table. It's easy enough to make one yourself, but not to get it with the miter gauge and all CNC cut to tolerances tighter than a gnat's *** like Jim does. The "sled" really almost doubles the usefulness of the saw and there isn't a lot of sense to building your own with most likely sloppy tolerances compared to the factory-made one, which is as accurate as the rest of the saw.
 
The micrometer fence adjustment can be done without, but for the money, why would anyone want to It's handy when you want to make minute adjustments. It's a machine that's really made to provide 001" accuracy and that isn't likely to be easily achieved with any certainty without the micrometer fence adjustment.
 
I'd suggest spending the few bucks to get the bag of spare screws, etc. They are really tiny and even though I've not yet lost one (knock on wood) it's bound to happen at some point. They aren't hardware store items and you'll pay twice the cost if you have to order them afterwards once you factor in the shipping costs. The same goes for blades. Get a selection when you get the saw. It can all ship together and save you a few bucks in shipping over buying them piecemeal. You can make your own zero clearance plates, but for eight bucks a piece, I don't see how it's worth anybody's time to do so, and certainly not to the perfect fit you'll get from the factory-made ones.
 
Making your own rip taper gauge is a piece of cake, but for only $40, Jim's machined one is just so "cute," I couldn't resist it. Chalk it up to a "pride of ownership" thing, I guess. I've yet to use it, but I'm considering trying it for mast tapering the next time I have occasion to get out some spars. I don't know if that will work, but my thought is that if I can accurately taper four sides of the stick, getting out a very accurately tapered spar by rounding off the corners in my drill press vertical spar-turning lathe set-up would be a lot easier and faster. 
 
In short, aside from the tilting table, one might as well buy all the optional stuff! Seriously. Just down three or four shots of the good stuff and go all "drunken sailor" on it. SWMBO ("She Who Must Be Obeyed") will never notice the difference anyway.
 
 

I saw this somewhere recently:   the bits/ drives  are generally inexpensive -  the suggestion was to have a copy of the proper bit/drive in each screw container.
Maybe a piece of Gorilla double stick tape on the top or under it to hold the bit.

Jarrod,
Do yourself a favor,  saving yourself pointless stress and buy a copy of both books.  If 17th C. Dutch is a focus, then you will want both anyway.
You are lucky if you can still buy a copy of The Ships of Abel Tasman.  The time window is not as long as you imagine it to be.

I saw this somewhere recently:   the bits/ drives  are generally inexpensive -  the suggestion was to have a copy of the proper bit/drive in each screw container.
Maybe a piece of Gorilla double stick tape on the top or under it to hold the bit.

I saw this somewhere recently:   the bits/ drives  are generally inexpensive -  the suggestion was to have a copy of the proper bit/drive in each screw container.
Maybe a piece of Gorilla double stick tape on the top or under it to hold the bit.

I saw this somewhere recently:   the bits/ drives  are generally inexpensive -  the suggestion was to have a copy of the proper bit/drive in each screw container.
Maybe a piece of Gorilla double stick tape on the top or under it to hold the bit.

The type of headache may help in determining the cause.
Muscles at the back of the head along the spine = tension
Like a skull cap = the blood vessels
Above the eyes and nose - sinus
 
If the source is an organic solvent - which is a gas,  I am not sure that a mask that excludes physical particles would be of much help.
Activated charcoal might bind it, but that is a process subject to saturation.
Isolating the paint to an air volume that is not one where you are breathing could solve the problem if that is the source.

The type of headache may help in determining the cause.
Muscles at the back of the head along the spine = tension
Like a skull cap = the blood vessels
Above the eyes and nose - sinus
 
If the source is an organic solvent - which is a gas,  I am not sure that a mask that excludes physical particles would be of much help.
Activated charcoal might bind it, but that is a process subject to saturation.
Isolating the paint to an air volume that is not one where you are breathing could solve the problem if that is the source.

The type of headache may help in determining the cause.
Muscles at the back of the head along the spine = tension
Like a skull cap = the blood vessels
Above the eyes and nose - sinus
 
If the source is an organic solvent - which is a gas,  I am not sure that a mask that excludes physical particles would be of much help.
Activated charcoal might bind it, but that is a process subject to saturation.
Isolating the paint to an air volume that is not one where you are breathing could solve the problem if that is the source.

PVA bonds by long chains going into pores and irregularities on the two mating wood surfaces.  If there are no pores, there is no attachment places for the chains.  A purpose for a sealer or filler is to block the pores and provide a smooth surface.   Since two part epoxy is used to bond metal to metal or metal to wood,  its method of bonding is different.  The sealed surface should bond - to a point.  The strength then depends on the attachment of the sealer to the wood.  Epoxy tends to be kind of messy when compared to PVA for wood to wood.  CA is not a tool that I use, but again, if used on a sealed surface, the strength devolves to that of the sealer to the wood.  If you have ever seen paint or clear finish flaking from a surface, then you know this bond is not reliable on a planet with an oxygen atmosphere and water vapor also present.    A tedious resolution is to plan ahead and use a masking agent to protect the bonding surface from any sealer or paint.  After the fact, a solution would be to protect the sealed or painted surface with a masking agent and abrade the sealer from the bonding surface using a file or sanding stick or sand paper or scraper.

PVA bonds by long chains going into pores and irregularities on the two mating wood surfaces.  If there are no pores, there is no attachment places for the chains.  A purpose for a sealer or filler is to block the pores and provide a smooth surface.   Since two part epoxy is used to bond metal to metal or metal to wood,  its method of bonding is different.  The sealed surface should bond - to a point.  The strength then depends on the attachment of the sealer to the wood.  Epoxy tends to be kind of messy when compared to PVA for wood to wood.  CA is not a tool that I use, but again, if used on a sealed surface, the strength devolves to that of the sealer to the wood.  If you have ever seen paint or clear finish flaking from a surface, then you know this bond is not reliable on a planet with an oxygen atmosphere and water vapor also present.    A tedious resolution is to plan ahead and use a masking agent to protect the bonding surface from any sealer or paint.  After the fact, a solution would be to protect the sealed or painted surface with a masking agent and abrade the sealer from the bonding surface using a file or sanding stick or sand paper or scraper.

PVA bonds by long chains going into pores and irregularities on the two mating wood surfaces.  If there are no pores, there is no attachment places for the chains.  A purpose for a sealer or filler is to block the pores and provide a smooth surface.   Since two part epoxy is used to bond metal to metal or metal to wood,  its method of bonding is different.  The sealed surface should bond - to a point.  The strength then depends on the attachment of the sealer to the wood.  Epoxy tends to be kind of messy when compared to PVA for wood to wood.  CA is not a tool that I use, but again, if used on a sealed surface, the strength devolves to that of the sealer to the wood.  If you have ever seen paint or clear finish flaking from a surface, then you know this bond is not reliable on a planet with an oxygen atmosphere and water vapor also present.    A tedious resolution is to plan ahead and use a masking agent to protect the bonding surface from any sealer or paint.  After the fact, a solution would be to protect the sealed or painted surface with a masking agent and abrade the sealer from the bonding surface using a file or sanding stick or sand paper or scraper.

PVA bonds by long chains going into pores and irregularities on the two mating wood surfaces.  If there are no pores, there is no attachment places for the chains.  A purpose for a sealer or filler is to block the pores and provide a smooth surface.   Since two part epoxy is used to bond metal to metal or metal to wood,  its method of bonding is different.  The sealed surface should bond - to a point.  The strength then depends on the attachment of the sealer to the wood.  Epoxy tends to be kind of messy when compared to PVA for wood to wood.  CA is not a tool that I use, but again, if used on a sealed surface, the strength devolves to that of the sealer to the wood.  If you have ever seen paint or clear finish flaking from a surface, then you know this bond is not reliable on a planet with an oxygen atmosphere and water vapor also present.    A tedious resolution is to plan ahead and use a masking agent to protect the bonding surface from any sealer or paint.  After the fact, a solution would be to protect the sealed or painted surface with a masking agent and abrade the sealer from the bonding surface using a file or sanding stick or sand paper or scraper.

With at least one other French liner, the sill was curved, with a dip at the center.  Here, this is a step rather than a groove.  It probably has something to do with the heavy barrels of the large caliber main guns.  I would probably do Le Fleuron lower deck sills as a curve rather than a step.  I have no idea if these guns were ever traversed.  Given their weight, it would take something like a substantial peavey.   I suspect that the sill having an arc was a solution to something that was not a problem to begin with.  As drawn, the open end grain at the step would increase the possibility of fungal rot.

With at least one other French liner, the sill was curved, with a dip at the center.  Here, this is a step rather than a groove.  It probably has something to do with the heavy barrels of the large caliber main guns.  I would probably do Le Fleuron lower deck sills as a curve rather than a step.  I have no idea if these guns were ever traversed.  Given their weight, it would take something like a substantial peavey.   I suspect that the sill having an arc was a solution to something that was not a problem to begin with.  As drawn, the open end grain at the step would increase the possibility of fungal rot.

How many teeth per inch on your blade?   Trying to cut a 1/8" sheet of ply with a slitting saw would have too many teeth in contact with the stock = prematurely filled gullets and increased friction.
The ideal is something like 3 teeth in contact with the stock.  That can vary on any single blade depending on how high the blade is raised and thus - the angle of attack.

Yup,  it is highly probable that the cause of your problem is using an improper blade.  A rip cut of relatively thick ply is best done using a blade with many fewer teeth with much deeper gullets.  This will require the blade to be thicker.  The kerf will be wider.  If you tried this using the significantly more powerful Byrnes saw,  the ply would probably be scorched along the cut and the blade getting hot enough to affect its tempered strength.  The physics of it would be the same and the teeth would still not cut thru much of the wood.  I guess that you could feed the ply slowly enough not to fill the gullets.  It would be no fun atoll to take that long for a cut and be an example of false economy.

How many teeth per inch on your blade?   Trying to cut a 1/8" sheet of ply with a slitting saw would have too many teeth in contact with the stock = prematurely filled gullets and increased friction.
The ideal is something like 3 teeth in contact with the stock.  That can vary on any single blade depending on how high the blade is raised and thus - the angle of attack.

I just flashed on this:  there are razor saws that are thin enough and with a large number of teeth and minimal set.  With a carbide cutoff wheel,  a blade might be reshaped into a dagger conformation and do the job.  It would be messy to cut and kinda ugly, but it may do. 
 
example = Zona 35-050 Ultra Thin Razor Saw, 52 TPI.008-Inch Kerf, Blade Length 4-1/2-Inch    It would cost you $12 and some time to find out.