Jaager

The photos of HMS Victory and USS Constitution in dry dock - the copper - did not seem to be dented
like that in the photos here in previous threads about this subject.  Did I miss that?

Do current builders use thinner copper?

The copper nails were not rivets.  They were flattened near flush with the copper sheets.  They would be
all but not noticed below the extremely large scales.

Pin pusher = a tool that looks like a good idea, but really does not work a expected.
For the below, a small hammer and or a curved Kelly clamp (forceps/hemostat)
Use a pin vise or rotary drill to make a hole for the pin that is smaller than the pin diameter.
A hitch chock can be used to apply more force. 
Hitch chock = a small piece of scrap wood with a hole thru it sited  just below the head of the pin to apply force to the plank surface.
If you do not thru drill the pilot hole, the pin can be bent over the chock.
You are left with filling the hole.  Bamboo skewers - a single edge razor blade - a drill gauge for a draw plate or
a real draw plate.  Really tedious - the character of the bamboo species makes a difference in yield and how long it takes.
The chock can be split off and the pin nipped and filed - if it is brass or copper wire.  Fe pins will rust and disintegrate.

Pin pusher = a tool that looks like a good idea, but really does not work a expected.
For the below, a small hammer and or a curved Kelly clamp (forceps/hemostat)
Use a pin vise or rotary drill to make a hole for the pin that is smaller than the pin diameter.
A hitch chock can be used to apply more force. 
Hitch chock = a small piece of scrap wood with a hole thru it sited  just below the head of the pin to apply force to the plank surface.
If you do not thru drill the pilot hole, the pin can be bent over the chock.
You are left with filling the hole.  Bamboo skewers - a single edge razor blade - a drill gauge for a draw plate or
a real draw plate.  Really tedious - the character of the bamboo species makes a difference in yield and how long it takes.
The chock can be split off and the pin nipped and filed - if it is brass or copper wire.  Fe pins will rust and disintegrate.

Pin pusher = a tool that looks like a good idea, but really does not work a expected.
For the below, a small hammer and or a curved Kelly clamp (forceps/hemostat)
Use a pin vise or rotary drill to make a hole for the pin that is smaller than the pin diameter.
A hitch chock can be used to apply more force. 
Hitch chock = a small piece of scrap wood with a hole thru it sited  just below the head of the pin to apply force to the plank surface.
If you do not thru drill the pilot hole, the pin can be bent over the chock.
You are left with filling the hole.  Bamboo skewers - a single edge razor blade - a drill gauge for a draw plate or
a real draw plate.  Really tedious - the character of the bamboo species makes a difference in yield and how long it takes.
The chock can be split off and the pin nipped and filed - if it is brass or copper wire.  Fe pins will rust and disintegrate.

Go back in your mind - to your past builds and envision the steps that took the most time or were repetitive.  Then try to imagine a power tool that would speed that up.
Then, start your next project and when you get to such a place, buy the tool that you think will help.
By focusing on kits, your tool needs will be significant less than a scratch builder.
 
A heavy and an expensive power tool investment is going self sufficient in your lumber.  Full size cutting and milling (resawing).
Scratch POF responds well to the appropriate tools.
Scratch POB can get by with less.
Unless you intend to fabricate your own new power tools, that require working steel or Al,  two seductive tools that will not get enough use to justify their cost = a lathe and a mill.
 
You are in a position to cut an individual path, should you wish to come over to the dark side = scratch POF.  You have easier access to plans of vessels important to your region - 
Chapman and the Danish museum.
 

Jim,
My evaluation of Yellow Poplar -Liriodendron tulipifera -  a tree that grows fairly rapidly.  very straight,  large diameter trunk.
tight grain, closed pore, at the soft end as far as density,  easy on tools,  holds a sharp edge.  The color - yellow  to grey to green
tends to make it a problem in a visible clear finish situation,  Interior and painted - excellent for most any part.  I prefer harder species,
but that is a personal bias.  Planking - excellent - need to pick the pieces carefully if color is a factor.
 
Black poplar - Lombardy poplar - Populus nigra  -  a whole nuther thing.   The free grows straight, fast, dies young and a bad winter can be a disaster.
The wood is very soft, fibers tend to roll, can be fuzzy, weak.  More suited for making pallets.  Can be used if the tools are very sharp and there is no stress.
It will not be a joy to work.  Planking - probably will dent easily,  getting sharp edges = difficult,  splitting will lead to a lot of waste.

Jim,
My evaluation of Yellow Poplar -Liriodendron tulipifera -  a tree that grows fairly rapidly.  very straight,  large diameter trunk.
tight grain, closed pore, at the soft end as far as density,  easy on tools,  holds a sharp edge.  The color - yellow  to grey to green
tends to make it a problem in a visible clear finish situation,  Interior and painted - excellent for most any part.  I prefer harder species,
but that is a personal bias.  Planking - excellent - need to pick the pieces carefully if color is a factor.
 
Black poplar - Lombardy poplar - Populus nigra  -  a whole nuther thing.   The free grows straight, fast, dies young and a bad winter can be a disaster.
The wood is very soft, fibers tend to roll, can be fuzzy, weak.  More suited for making pallets.  Can be used if the tools are very sharp and there is no stress.
It will not be a joy to work.  Planking - probably will dent easily,  getting sharp edges = difficult,  splitting will lead to a lot of waste.

Go back in your mind - to your past builds and envision the steps that took the most time or were repetitive.  Then try to imagine a power tool that would speed that up.
Then, start your next project and when you get to such a place, buy the tool that you think will help.
By focusing on kits, your tool needs will be significant less than a scratch builder.
 
A heavy and an expensive power tool investment is going self sufficient in your lumber.  Full size cutting and milling (resawing).
Scratch POF responds well to the appropriate tools.
Scratch POB can get by with less.
Unless you intend to fabricate your own new power tools, that require working steel or Al,  two seductive tools that will not get enough use to justify their cost = a lathe and a mill.
 
You are in a position to cut an individual path, should you wish to come over to the dark side = scratch POF.  You have easier access to plans of vessels important to your region - 
Chapman and the Danish museum.
 

Go back in your mind - to your past builds and envision the steps that took the most time or were repetitive.  Then try to imagine a power tool that would speed that up.
Then, start your next project and when you get to such a place, buy the tool that you think will help.
By focusing on kits, your tool needs will be significant less than a scratch builder.
 
A heavy and an expensive power tool investment is going self sufficient in your lumber.  Full size cutting and milling (resawing).
Scratch POF responds well to the appropriate tools.
Scratch POB can get by with less.
Unless you intend to fabricate your own new power tools, that require working steel or Al,  two seductive tools that will not get enough use to justify their cost = a lathe and a mill.
 
You are in a position to cut an individual path, should you wish to come over to the dark side = scratch POF.  You have easier access to plans of vessels important to your region - 
Chapman and the Danish museum.
 

Fixing a dowel or wood balk in lathe jaws and being able to turn a even - constant tapper - a nice dream.  Reality and practicality drown that dream in mot instances.
The spars are often too long for lathe models in our price range.  In scales where they are short enough, their diameter = difficult to resist the lateral force of a cutting tool 
without breaking. 
Clamp an electric drill to turn the spar and use sandpaper to shape it.  Amazon (and probably others) sell low cost ball bearings with a range of OD and ID sizes.
A jig to hold the bearing is easy to make and wooden or cardboard wedges can support the outboard end of the spar with no friction heating up the spar piece as it turns.

Go back in your mind - to your past builds and envision the steps that took the most time or were repetitive.  Then try to imagine a power tool that would speed that up.
Then, start your next project and when you get to such a place, buy the tool that you think will help.
By focusing on kits, your tool needs will be significant less than a scratch builder.
 
A heavy and an expensive power tool investment is going self sufficient in your lumber.  Full size cutting and milling (resawing).
Scratch POF responds well to the appropriate tools.
Scratch POB can get by with less.
Unless you intend to fabricate your own new power tools, that require working steel or Al,  two seductive tools that will not get enough use to justify their cost = a lathe and a mill.
 
You are in a position to cut an individual path, should you wish to come over to the dark side = scratch POF.  You have easier access to plans of vessels important to your region - 
Chapman and the Danish museum.
 

If turning spars is your goal,  a generic corded electric drill and a speed control -  not sure a dimmer switch will work,  but low cost if it does.
If you can set a remote ON a maintain  the internal speed control setting, no additional switch is needed.
Even 1/2 inch drills are significantly less expensive.
For this, a lathe is a sledge to kill a fly.

Fixing a dowel or wood balk in lathe jaws and being able to turn a even - constant tapper - a nice dream.  Reality and practicality drown that dream in mot instances.
The spars are often too long for lathe models in our price range.  In scales where they are short enough, their diameter = difficult to resist the lateral force of a cutting tool 
without breaking. 
Clamp an electric drill to turn the spar and use sandpaper to shape it.  Amazon (and probably others) sell low cost ball bearings with a range of OD and ID sizes.
A jig to hold the bearing is easy to make and wooden or cardboard wedges can support the outboard end of the spar with no friction heating up the spar piece as it turns.

Go back in your mind - to your past builds and envision the steps that took the most time or were repetitive.  Then try to imagine a power tool that would speed that up.
Then, start your next project and when you get to such a place, buy the tool that you think will help.
By focusing on kits, your tool needs will be significant less than a scratch builder.
 
A heavy and an expensive power tool investment is going self sufficient in your lumber.  Full size cutting and milling (resawing).
Scratch POF responds well to the appropriate tools.
Scratch POB can get by with less.
Unless you intend to fabricate your own new power tools, that require working steel or Al,  two seductive tools that will not get enough use to justify their cost = a lathe and a mill.
 
You are in a position to cut an individual path, should you wish to come over to the dark side = scratch POF.  You have easier access to plans of vessels important to your region - 
Chapman and the Danish museum.
 

Go back in your mind - to your past builds and envision the steps that took the most time or were repetitive.  Then try to imagine a power tool that would speed that up.
Then, start your next project and when you get to such a place, buy the tool that you think will help.
By focusing on kits, your tool needs will be significant less than a scratch builder.
 
A heavy and an expensive power tool investment is going self sufficient in your lumber.  Full size cutting and milling (resawing).
Scratch POF responds well to the appropriate tools.
Scratch POB can get by with less.
Unless you intend to fabricate your own new power tools, that require working steel or Al,  two seductive tools that will not get enough use to justify their cost = a lathe and a mill.
 
You are in a position to cut an individual path, should you wish to come over to the dark side = scratch POF.  You have easier access to plans of vessels important to your region - 
Chapman and the Danish museum.
 

It depends on the tools available to you.  If you can mill,  a visit to your local HomeDepot or hardware store can
supply you with a best quality framing 2 x 4.  They will crosscut - 2 ft for me.  One should cover more than one POB.
Some times Fir or Pine - just choose clear, and low sap.  Easy on a saw blade or cutting edges but holds an edge.

Access your available woodworkers suppliers.  My go-to is WoodCraft - it is a close drive, and has an active Web sales site.
The product that you want is hardwood veneer.  A species of wood with tight grain and closed pore.  In the US - the lower cost species = Black Cherry - Hard Maple.  Take care in the choice.  Most veneer is for the very characteristics that we need to avoid = high contrast and interesting grain.  Many of the species are also open pore.  When reduced by a factor or 50-100, the pores would be soup bowl size or shallow ditches. 
Factors that are desirable - natural,  quarter sawn or plane sawn,  no pre-glue backing,  as thin as can be had.
You will be adding a fixed additional thickness to the hull, so all planking- including the wale needs the treatment.  If the veneer is too thick, the rail will not appear to extend out enough. If you fatten it, it will be too wide.
If you copper the bottom - the thickness of the copper chosen may match the veneer and no planking needed under it.  If it is not too late,  consider not having the swimming body look like a smallpox survivor and use a smooth copper product - in place of an out of scale - too few anyway - embossed product.
 
The veneer will require a heavy precise straight edge and a sharp knife - most of us seem to prefer a #11 style edge.  Using a luthier's knife and a leather strop with gold or green compd - used frequently - will aid in developing better working habits.

Why not spill and build up from pieces?  Bending thru the thick dimension is fighting against the nature of the wood.
 
Dziadeczek,    I am betting that the wood in question is kit supplied.   African Walnut is probably relatively low cost and
can be advertised a something special by kit mfg.   Black Walnut ( Juglans nigra )  is in a class by itself. I would guess that
although a reasonable cost and available here, it is probably neither in OZ.   Queensland Walnut is native to OZ and may be
superior to the African species - if Mark can mill it.
All Walnuts share a problem for our purposes  - open pore and some have grain that scales poorly.

Access your available woodworkers suppliers.  My go-to is WoodCraft - it is a close drive, and has an active Web sales site.
The product that you want is hardwood veneer.  A species of wood with tight grain and closed pore.  In the US - the lower cost species = Black Cherry - Hard Maple.  Take care in the choice.  Most veneer is for the very characteristics that we need to avoid = high contrast and interesting grain.  Many of the species are also open pore.  When reduced by a factor or 50-100, the pores would be soup bowl size or shallow ditches. 
Factors that are desirable - natural,  quarter sawn or plane sawn,  no pre-glue backing,  as thin as can be had.
You will be adding a fixed additional thickness to the hull, so all planking- including the wale needs the treatment.  If the veneer is too thick, the rail will not appear to extend out enough. If you fatten it, it will be too wide.
If you copper the bottom - the thickness of the copper chosen may match the veneer and no planking needed under it.  If it is not too late,  consider not having the swimming body look like a smallpox survivor and use a smooth copper product - in place of an out of scale - too few anyway - embossed product.
 
The veneer will require a heavy precise straight edge and a sharp knife - most of us seem to prefer a #11 style edge.  Using a luthier's knife and a leather strop with gold or green compd - used frequently - will aid in developing better working habits.

Access your available woodworkers suppliers.  My go-to is WoodCraft - it is a close drive, and has an active Web sales site.
The product that you want is hardwood veneer.  A species of wood with tight grain and closed pore.  In the US - the lower cost species = Black Cherry - Hard Maple.  Take care in the choice.  Most veneer is for the very characteristics that we need to avoid = high contrast and interesting grain.  Many of the species are also open pore.  When reduced by a factor or 50-100, the pores would be soup bowl size or shallow ditches. 
Factors that are desirable - natural,  quarter sawn or plane sawn,  no pre-glue backing,  as thin as can be had.
You will be adding a fixed additional thickness to the hull, so all planking- including the wale needs the treatment.  If the veneer is too thick, the rail will not appear to extend out enough. If you fatten it, it will be too wide.
If you copper the bottom - the thickness of the copper chosen may match the veneer and no planking needed under it.  If it is not too late,  consider not having the swimming body look like a smallpox survivor and use a smooth copper product - in place of an out of scale - too few anyway - embossed product.
 
The veneer will require a heavy precise straight edge and a sharp knife - most of us seem to prefer a #11 style edge.  Using a luthier's knife and a leather strop with gold or green compd - used frequently - will aid in developing better working habits.

Access your available woodworkers suppliers.  My go-to is WoodCraft - it is a close drive, and has an active Web sales site.
The product that you want is hardwood veneer.  A species of wood with tight grain and closed pore.  In the US - the lower cost species = Black Cherry - Hard Maple.  Take care in the choice.  Most veneer is for the very characteristics that we need to avoid = high contrast and interesting grain.  Many of the species are also open pore.  When reduced by a factor or 50-100, the pores would be soup bowl size or shallow ditches. 
Factors that are desirable - natural,  quarter sawn or plane sawn,  no pre-glue backing,  as thin as can be had.
You will be adding a fixed additional thickness to the hull, so all planking- including the wale needs the treatment.  If the veneer is too thick, the rail will not appear to extend out enough. If you fatten it, it will be too wide.
If you copper the bottom - the thickness of the copper chosen may match the veneer and no planking needed under it.  If it is not too late,  consider not having the swimming body look like a smallpox survivor and use a smooth copper product - in place of an out of scale - too few anyway - embossed product.
 
The veneer will require a heavy precise straight edge and a sharp knife - most of us seem to prefer a #11 style edge.  Using a luthier's knife and a leather strop with gold or green compd - used frequently - will aid in developing better working habits.

Why not spill and build up from pieces?  Bending thru the thick dimension is fighting against the nature of the wood.
 
Dziadeczek,    I am betting that the wood in question is kit supplied.   African Walnut is probably relatively low cost and
can be advertised a something special by kit mfg.   Black Walnut ( Juglans nigra )  is in a class by itself. I would guess that
although a reasonable cost and available here, it is probably neither in OZ.   Queensland Walnut is native to OZ and may be
superior to the African species - if Mark can mill it.
All Walnuts share a problem for our purposes  - open pore and some have grain that scales poorly.

If turning spars is your goal,  a generic corded electric drill and a speed control -  not sure a dimmer switch will work,  but low cost if it does.
If you can set a remote ON a maintain  the internal speed control setting, no additional switch is needed.
Even 1/2 inch drills are significantly less expensive.
For this, a lathe is a sledge to kill a fly.