Jaager

If turning spars is your goal,  a generic corded electric drill and a speed control -  not sure a dimmer switch will work,  but low cost if it does.
If you can set a remote ON a maintain  the internal speed control setting, no additional switch is needed.
Even 1/2 inch drills are significantly less expensive.
For this, a lathe is a sledge to kill a fly.

If turning spars is your goal,  a generic corded electric drill and a speed control -  not sure a dimmer switch will work,  but low cost if it does.
If you can set a remote ON a maintain  the internal speed control setting, no additional switch is needed.
Even 1/2 inch drills are significantly less expensive.
For this, a lathe is a sledge to kill a fly.

Lacquer has its own thinner.  The irritant factor of the traditional version is fierce - you will want to be breathing a different air supply.
The more recent "green" version is not an improvement in that regard.
Lacquer can be wiped on, but it is high gloss and builds thick layers.
Poly - polyurethane - is a plastic.  Works great to finish and protect a wooden floor.
Both tend to produce a thick, high gloss finish.  Great for a toy-like finish - if that is what you want.
I think a convenient factor with wipe-on poly - water is the solvent.
 
Shellac is a wipe on finish.  The depth and gloss can be controlled.
Shellac tinned 1:1 is an excellent primer coat. About anything else can be used over it.
Shellac uses alcohol - methanol or isopropanol 100% - or ethanol that has no water-  Shellac likes water - it likes it so much, that it turns white to show its joy.
Shellac and boiled linseed  oil is traditional vanish.
A shellac pad with a bit of linseed oil is French polish.
Pure Tung oil can be wiped on, thinned, 1:1 it is a primer coat, or done over Shellac, as many layer as you care to apply, but can take time to dry/polymerize.
Tung oil uses mineral spirits as a solvent.
Sutherland Wells sells a "cooked" Tung oil is several grades - pre polymerized - fewer layers - faster drying - gloss level a choice.
Renaissance Wax can be used over Shellac or Tung oil.

To essay as to why this search may be a dry hole
 
The two "POF" schooner kits -  Are not what an actual POF hull would be.  They appear to be at best 1/3 room and 2/3 space. Almost a cartoon, if the frames are left unplanked.
 
The Hahn method - a modeler's convention - not a reproduction of actual hull framing is 1/2 room and 1/2 space.
The actual framing - from the early 18th century until 1860 was individual to the ship and country of origin.  An average - would
be closer to 2/3 room and 1/3 space.  The other extreme - with some Continental frigates - all room except for all but invisible air circulation gaps.
Framing these as built and showing the frames - it would  be essentially a solid vertical wall - not visually interesting at all.  Leaving out every other 
bend - a more interesting hull.  Since this is Hahn's period of interest, perhaps this is a source for his style.
 
It is my experience that a true POF hull - either done using a modeler's convention style e.g. Hahn/ Navy Board or actually mimicking the
the actual vessel would be difficult to mass produce.  It is labor intensive,  No two parts are identical.  Current methods - especially Hahn or Navy Board -
have a high waste factor in timber wood stock - almost profligate.  And the wood species needed for the timbers can be expensive. 
In actual practice,  a first rate almost required a forest to frame.  In England, the first real one was so expensive,  the tax revolt was a tipping point for a 
major change in governance.  The requirements for timber stock for a model in the larger scale range almost feels as significant.
 
With the methods in current use,  about the only short cut is to start with a set of plans or monograph with the individual frames already lofted.

To essay as to why this search may be a dry hole
 
The two "POF" schooner kits -  Are not what an actual POF hull would be.  They appear to be at best 1/3 room and 2/3 space. Almost a cartoon, if the frames are left unplanked.
 
The Hahn method - a modeler's convention - not a reproduction of actual hull framing is 1/2 room and 1/2 space.
The actual framing - from the early 18th century until 1860 was individual to the ship and country of origin.  An average - would
be closer to 2/3 room and 1/3 space.  The other extreme - with some Continental frigates - all room except for all but invisible air circulation gaps.
Framing these as built and showing the frames - it would  be essentially a solid vertical wall - not visually interesting at all.  Leaving out every other 
bend - a more interesting hull.  Since this is Hahn's period of interest, perhaps this is a source for his style.
 
It is my experience that a true POF hull - either done using a modeler's convention style e.g. Hahn/ Navy Board or actually mimicking the
the actual vessel would be difficult to mass produce.  It is labor intensive,  No two parts are identical.  Current methods - especially Hahn or Navy Board -
have a high waste factor in timber wood stock - almost profligate.  And the wood species needed for the timbers can be expensive. 
In actual practice,  a first rate almost required a forest to frame.  In England, the first real one was so expensive,  the tax revolt was a tipping point for a 
major change in governance.  The requirements for timber stock for a model in the larger scale range almost feels as significant.
 
With the methods in current use,  about the only short cut is to start with a set of plans or monograph with the individual frames already lofted.

Lacquer has its own thinner.  The irritant factor of the traditional version is fierce - you will want to be breathing a different air supply.
The more recent "green" version is not an improvement in that regard.
Lacquer can be wiped on, but it is high gloss and builds thick layers.
Poly - polyurethane - is a plastic.  Works great to finish and protect a wooden floor.
Both tend to produce a thick, high gloss finish.  Great for a toy-like finish - if that is what you want.
I think a convenient factor with wipe-on poly - water is the solvent.
 
Shellac is a wipe on finish.  The depth and gloss can be controlled.
Shellac tinned 1:1 is an excellent primer coat. About anything else can be used over it.
Shellac uses alcohol - methanol or isopropanol 100% - or ethanol that has no water-  Shellac likes water - it likes it so much, that it turns white to show its joy.
Shellac and boiled linseed  oil is traditional vanish.
A shellac pad with a bit of linseed oil is French polish.
Pure Tung oil can be wiped on, thinned, 1:1 it is a primer coat, or done over Shellac, as many layer as you care to apply, but can take time to dry/polymerize.
Tung oil uses mineral spirits as a solvent.
Sutherland Wells sells a "cooked" Tung oil is several grades - pre polymerized - fewer layers - faster drying - gloss level a choice.
Renaissance Wax can be used over Shellac or Tung oil.

Lacquer has its own thinner.  The irritant factor of the traditional version is fierce - you will want to be breathing a different air supply.
The more recent "green" version is not an improvement in that regard.
Lacquer can be wiped on, but it is high gloss and builds thick layers.
Poly - polyurethane - is a plastic.  Works great to finish and protect a wooden floor.
Both tend to produce a thick, high gloss finish.  Great for a toy-like finish - if that is what you want.
I think a convenient factor with wipe-on poly - water is the solvent.
 
Shellac is a wipe on finish.  The depth and gloss can be controlled.
Shellac tinned 1:1 is an excellent primer coat. About anything else can be used over it.
Shellac uses alcohol - methanol or isopropanol 100% - or ethanol that has no water-  Shellac likes water - it likes it so much, that it turns white to show its joy.
Shellac and boiled linseed  oil is traditional vanish.
A shellac pad with a bit of linseed oil is French polish.
Pure Tung oil can be wiped on, thinned, 1:1 it is a primer coat, or done over Shellac, as many layer as you care to apply, but can take time to dry/polymerize.
Tung oil uses mineral spirits as a solvent.
Sutherland Wells sells a "cooked" Tung oil is several grades - pre polymerized - fewer layers - faster drying - gloss level a choice.
Renaissance Wax can be used over Shellac or Tung oil.

The plans in HIC books are available from The Smithsonian for $10 a sheet plus $5/12 postage.
The line scan is crisper. 

I have one  I really really don't like it.     (Actually two - I inherited one from my father.)
My Jarmac is sort of pitiful too.
Neither is in the same galaxy as a Byrnes table saw.
Way under powered, your photo of the motor really brings that home.
Feels - cheesy, lots of play   - It needs fixing to a sturdy base.
The open back can be covered with a plate of cardboard or hardboard with a hole and connector for a shop vac hose
A spacer at each bottom corner between the bottom of the unit and a base may provide better air circulation.
The fence is long enough that a clamp might be fixed to the back to better lock the position - once you adjust it parallel to the blade. Gonna want to affirm that it is parallel with each movement.
The OEM gauge is not all that great.  There are 3rd party miter gauges - just not many that are cost effective. 
 
You can make a sliding table - definitely worth the effort.
With something like this:
STEELWORKS BOLTMASTER 11285 Flat Aluminium Bar, 1/8 x 1/2 x 36"
A tempered hardboard base
a top edge and bottom edge  piece of wood 1/2" by 1.5"  full width - to keep the slit base as a single unit.  A belt and suspenders level of attachment -   ( glue and screws/dowels ) = hardboard can debond from itself.
a piece of Pine perpendicular to the above outside the bottom support - to cover the blade as it comes thru. -to keep from crosscutting your fingers or hand.
 
I am not sure that the tilting blade feature is not a solution in search of a need.  Having to re tune the blade back to 90 degrees every time does make it more trouble than it is worth.
I advise against being too hopeful in how thick of a billet this saw can rip or crosscut.

If you want to riff a bit, AAMM sells a monograph.  Just one sheet, but also photos of a contemporary museum model.
Amiral Paris included it in Souveniers de Marine, but there is not as much information there as there might have been, since I
think Paris was part of the ship's crew on the Antarctic voyage.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
i

Quarter sawn Maple veneer - A good steel ruler with a tapered edge and a sharp luthiers  knife - with practice = scale planking.  WoodCraft if you have no alternate vendors.
As Dziadeczek says get the finish off and down to raw wood.
Go easy on the calking seam simulation and consider a Walnut shade rather than black.  Subtle, rather than smacking a viewer between the eyes might be worth considering.
A glossy finish on the deck of a working schooner would be death to work on - often wet and almost always moving.
Shellac is an alternate finish - 1/2 strength for first coat.  If it is too shiny, 0000 steel wool can knock that down.  Shellac also meets Oddball's Credo.

It is likely that it is heat and not water that allows lignin bonds to reset.  Water plus heat produce steam, which is more efficient in heat transfer than dry heat - seasoned wood has air spaces - insulation like. 

The fat from the beef is tallow.
Allergic to beef,  I discovered that some Mickey D add it to
the vegetable oil to flavor FF.  Never would have had a reason
to know about it otherwise.  I seem to recall from a school trip
to Colonial Williamsburg it was used for candles, but did not bother to 
know what it was.
 
Since you are likely to be inside your home and not
a dirt floor shed, you may wish to forego the animal fat and
try Mineral Oil from your pharmacy.  The spinning may spray
and a rancid streak on the wall behind your bench or ceiling
above may not be easily seen but still provide an unpleasant odor.
Sears used to sell quarts of light machine oil, can't find it now, so
I use MO instead.
 

It is likely that it is heat and not water that allows lignin bonds to reset.  Water plus heat produce steam, which is more efficient in heat transfer than dry heat - seasoned wood has air spaces - insulation like. 

It is likely that it is heat and not water that allows lignin bonds to reset.  Water plus heat produce steam, which is more efficient in heat transfer than dry heat - seasoned wood has air spaces - insulation like. 

It is likely that it is heat and not water that allows lignin bonds to reset.  Water plus heat produce steam, which is more efficient in heat transfer than dry heat - seasoned wood has air spaces - insulation like. 

Bruce,
It looks like you have beautiful, clear stock.  It does not get much better than Holly.  Fortune turned her smile onto you there.
 
I don't know what your building material is over there,  but here, the most common construction lumber is 2"x4" x 8' Pine or Fir.  It is not expensive as far as wood goes.  If you can mill it, it works well as fill stock between the moulds.  Do an inside curve, rather than solid to the "keel centerline piece" to save wood and weight.  It can be a several lamination. 
If an additional throw away layer that is the thickness of the plywood moulds is added, two adjacent mould patterns layered in a drawing program with locator guides added - bamboo skewers - straight from the package make good dowels - if you have a drill bit that diameter and a drill press to make sure the holes are perpendicular.  Only need to manipulate the pattern for one side - flip horizontal is a big time saver and assures lateral symmetry.
Most of the scroll cutting,, layer assembly, shaping to near final curves - done off the hull. - paper or cardboard shims if there is play between the moulds.
Do this all the way and it is like having a solid hull.  One layer of planking is enough.  The planks have about as good a glue support as possible.

Bruce,
It looks like you have beautiful, clear stock.  It does not get much better than Holly.  Fortune turned her smile onto you there.
 
I don't know what your building material is over there,  but here, the most common construction lumber is 2"x4" x 8' Pine or Fir.  It is not expensive as far as wood goes.  If you can mill it, it works well as fill stock between the moulds.  Do an inside curve, rather than solid to the "keel centerline piece" to save wood and weight.  It can be a several lamination. 
If an additional throw away layer that is the thickness of the plywood moulds is added, two adjacent mould patterns layered in a drawing program with locator guides added - bamboo skewers - straight from the package make good dowels - if you have a drill bit that diameter and a drill press to make sure the holes are perpendicular.  Only need to manipulate the pattern for one side - flip horizontal is a big time saver and assures lateral symmetry.
Most of the scroll cutting,, layer assembly, shaping to near final curves - done off the hull. - paper or cardboard shims if there is play between the moulds.
Do this all the way and it is like having a solid hull.  One layer of planking is enough.  The planks have about as good a glue support as possible.

Bruce,
It looks like you have beautiful, clear stock.  It does not get much better than Holly.  Fortune turned her smile onto you there.
 
I don't know what your building material is over there,  but here, the most common construction lumber is 2"x4" x 8' Pine or Fir.  It is not expensive as far as wood goes.  If you can mill it, it works well as fill stock between the moulds.  Do an inside curve, rather than solid to the "keel centerline piece" to save wood and weight.  It can be a several lamination. 
If an additional throw away layer that is the thickness of the plywood moulds is added, two adjacent mould patterns layered in a drawing program with locator guides added - bamboo skewers - straight from the package make good dowels - if you have a drill bit that diameter and a drill press to make sure the holes are perpendicular.  Only need to manipulate the pattern for one side - flip horizontal is a big time saver and assures lateral symmetry.
Most of the scroll cutting,, layer assembly, shaping to near final curves - done off the hull. - paper or cardboard shims if there is play between the moulds.
Do this all the way and it is like having a solid hull.  One layer of planking is enough.  The planks have about as good a glue support as possible.

Bruce,
It looks like you have beautiful, clear stock.  It does not get much better than Holly.  Fortune turned her smile onto you there.
 
I don't know what your building material is over there,  but here, the most common construction lumber is 2"x4" x 8' Pine or Fir.  It is not expensive as far as wood goes.  If you can mill it, it works well as fill stock between the moulds.  Do an inside curve, rather than solid to the "keel centerline piece" to save wood and weight.  It can be a several lamination. 
If an additional throw away layer that is the thickness of the plywood moulds is added, two adjacent mould patterns layered in a drawing program with locator guides added - bamboo skewers - straight from the package make good dowels - if you have a drill bit that diameter and a drill press to make sure the holes are perpendicular.  Only need to manipulate the pattern for one side - flip horizontal is a big time saver and assures lateral symmetry.
Most of the scroll cutting,, layer assembly, shaping to near final curves - done off the hull. - paper or cardboard shims if there is play between the moulds.
Do this all the way and it is like having a solid hull.  One layer of planking is enough.  The planks have about as good a glue support as possible.

MPJA  sells a power supply for $17  3-12 volt selection range.  Allows for a range of RPM.

I guess I must be missing something about double planking a series of POB moulds.
The outer layer is done in a way that covers whatever is under it?
Unless the hull is intended to actually float ( and POB is a poor choice for this) why bother with a filler for the first layer? It will not be seen anyway if longitudinal gaps between planks is what is being "fixed".  If the run has hollows, a wooden scab is probably a better fix.
 
Bruce,
Have you milled your Holly logs yet?  If you did not immediately get the logs into a kiln,  unless Blue Mold is restricted to this side of the Pond, it is likely to have invaded your lumber.  If so, the bad news is that the wood will not be white,  rather grey or light blue.  The good news, the integrity of the wood is not compromised.  It is just as hard, bends just as well - really an excellent species for our needs.  It accepts aniline dyes well.  The fungus does not affect that - except for the final shade..  I am thinking that infected Holly may yield a more realistic deck than a marquetry white stock.
 

I have one  I really really don't like it.     (Actually two - I inherited one from my father.)
My Jarmac is sort of pitiful too.
Neither is in the same galaxy as a Byrnes table saw.
Way under powered, your photo of the motor really brings that home.
Feels - cheesy, lots of play   - It needs fixing to a sturdy base.
The open back can be covered with a plate of cardboard or hardboard with a hole and connector for a shop vac hose
A spacer at each bottom corner between the bottom of the unit and a base may provide better air circulation.
The fence is long enough that a clamp might be fixed to the back to better lock the position - once you adjust it parallel to the blade. Gonna want to affirm that it is parallel with each movement.
The OEM gauge is not all that great.  There are 3rd party miter gauges - just not many that are cost effective. 
 
You can make a sliding table - definitely worth the effort.
With something like this:
STEELWORKS BOLTMASTER 11285 Flat Aluminium Bar, 1/8 x 1/2 x 36"
A tempered hardboard base
a top edge and bottom edge  piece of wood 1/2" by 1.5"  full width - to keep the slit base as a single unit.  A belt and suspenders level of attachment -   ( glue and screws/dowels ) = hardboard can debond from itself.
a piece of Pine perpendicular to the above outside the bottom support - to cover the blade as it comes thru. -to keep from crosscutting your fingers or hand.
 
I am not sure that the tilting blade feature is not a solution in search of a need.  Having to re tune the blade back to 90 degrees every time does make it more trouble than it is worth.
I advise against being too hopeful in how thick of a billet this saw can rip or crosscut.

I guess I must be missing something about double planking a series of POB moulds.
The outer layer is done in a way that covers whatever is under it?
Unless the hull is intended to actually float ( and POB is a poor choice for this) why bother with a filler for the first layer? It will not be seen anyway if longitudinal gaps between planks is what is being "fixed".  If the run has hollows, a wooden scab is probably a better fix.
 
Bruce,
Have you milled your Holly logs yet?  If you did not immediately get the logs into a kiln,  unless Blue Mold is restricted to this side of the Pond, it is likely to have invaded your lumber.  If so, the bad news is that the wood will not be white,  rather grey or light blue.  The good news, the integrity of the wood is not compromised.  It is just as hard, bends just as well - really an excellent species for our needs.  It accepts aniline dyes well.  The fungus does not affect that - except for the final shade..  I am thinking that infected Holly may yield a more realistic deck than a marquetry white stock.
 

I have one  I really really don't like it.     (Actually two - I inherited one from my father.)
My Jarmac is sort of pitiful too.
Neither is in the same galaxy as a Byrnes table saw.
Way under powered, your photo of the motor really brings that home.
Feels - cheesy, lots of play   - It needs fixing to a sturdy base.
The open back can be covered with a plate of cardboard or hardboard with a hole and connector for a shop vac hose
A spacer at each bottom corner between the bottom of the unit and a base may provide better air circulation.
The fence is long enough that a clamp might be fixed to the back to better lock the position - once you adjust it parallel to the blade. Gonna want to affirm that it is parallel with each movement.
The OEM gauge is not all that great.  There are 3rd party miter gauges - just not many that are cost effective. 
 
You can make a sliding table - definitely worth the effort.
With something like this:
STEELWORKS BOLTMASTER 11285 Flat Aluminium Bar, 1/8 x 1/2 x 36"
A tempered hardboard base
a top edge and bottom edge  piece of wood 1/2" by 1.5"  full width - to keep the slit base as a single unit.  A belt and suspenders level of attachment -   ( glue and screws/dowels ) = hardboard can debond from itself.
a piece of Pine perpendicular to the above outside the bottom support - to cover the blade as it comes thru. -to keep from crosscutting your fingers or hand.
 
I am not sure that the tilting blade feature is not a solution in search of a need.  Having to re tune the blade back to 90 degrees every time does make it more trouble than it is worth.
I advise against being too hopeful in how thick of a billet this saw can rip or crosscut.