Jaager
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Jaager got a reaction from Landlubber Mike in Miniature Hand Tools
Unless you nick the edge, it should be enough to strop. A piece of scrap leather and rub it with a bar of compound like FlexCut Gold or someone else's finest grit stropping medium. The angle does not need to be exact. Too flat and you polish the bevel and not the edge. But too vertical and it may not get you the edge that you are after.
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Jaager got a reaction from Ryland Craze in Byrnes Table Saw Tips (requested)
Bob, when I can, I mount a bench top machine on an end cutting of a 2x12.
For Allen wrenches, I drill a hole in the base that is a push fit for the short arm of the wrench - always there.
For the Byrnes thickness sander I used some Gorilla double sided tape to stick a piece of scrap planking and put a hole in that and stuck a small plastic container with a lid to hold the screws.
The 9" bandsaw has open end wrenches, and I screwed a spring loaded towel rod brace to the base and it holds the wrenches. The Allens are in their holes next to it.
For the tablesaw, a thick piece of scrap taped to the side, with the holes in the top.
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Jaager got a reaction from No Idea in Byrnes Table Saw Tips (requested)
Bob, when I can, I mount a bench top machine on an end cutting of a 2x12.
For Allen wrenches, I drill a hole in the base that is a push fit for the short arm of the wrench - always there.
For the Byrnes thickness sander I used some Gorilla double sided tape to stick a piece of scrap planking and put a hole in that and stuck a small plastic container with a lid to hold the screws.
The 9" bandsaw has open end wrenches, and I screwed a spring loaded towel rod brace to the base and it holds the wrenches. The Allens are in their holes next to it.
For the tablesaw, a thick piece of scrap taped to the side, with the holes in the top.
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Byrnes Table Saw Tips (requested)
Bob, when I can, I mount a bench top machine on an end cutting of a 2x12.
For Allen wrenches, I drill a hole in the base that is a push fit for the short arm of the wrench - always there.
For the Byrnes thickness sander I used some Gorilla double sided tape to stick a piece of scrap planking and put a hole in that and stuck a small plastic container with a lid to hold the screws.
The 9" bandsaw has open end wrenches, and I screwed a spring loaded towel rod brace to the base and it holds the wrenches. The Allens are in their holes next to it.
For the tablesaw, a thick piece of scrap taped to the side, with the holes in the top.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Byrnes Table Saw Tips (requested)
Bob, when I can, I mount a bench top machine on an end cutting of a 2x12.
For Allen wrenches, I drill a hole in the base that is a push fit for the short arm of the wrench - always there.
For the Byrnes thickness sander I used some Gorilla double sided tape to stick a piece of scrap planking and put a hole in that and stuck a small plastic container with a lid to hold the screws.
The 9" bandsaw has open end wrenches, and I screwed a spring loaded towel rod brace to the base and it holds the wrenches. The Allens are in their holes next to it.
For the tablesaw, a thick piece of scrap taped to the side, with the holes in the top.
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Dremel 8050 micro
Oliver, you provide no location information, so you may not be used to Imperial unit materials, but for me a Rogers Drill Bit Stand #61-80 has continued to be a very useful way to access bits when trying several sizes. About the most expensive choice, but refills you buy in bulk - when you discover which sizes get the most use. I usually remove and replace using a Kelly clamp.
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Dremel 8050 micro
I have one and I like it. I agree with John about it not "remembering" the set speed. Mine was one of the lot numbers in the recall. It was done efficiently and there has been no heat problem. Gonna get the keyless chuck with my next Amazon order.
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Jaager got a reaction from Captain Poison in Dremel 8050 micro
I have one and I like it. I agree with John about it not "remembering" the set speed. Mine was one of the lot numbers in the recall. It was done efficiently and there has been no heat problem. Gonna get the keyless chuck with my next Amazon order.
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Jaager got a reaction from Captain Poison in Dremel 8050 micro
Oliver, you provide no location information, so you may not be used to Imperial unit materials, but for me a Rogers Drill Bit Stand #61-80 has continued to be a very useful way to access bits when trying several sizes. About the most expensive choice, but refills you buy in bulk - when you discover which sizes get the most use. I usually remove and replace using a Kelly clamp.
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Jaager got a reaction from Tony28 in Best finish for wood ships
My bias
1st - prime with 50% diluted super blonde shellac. Most anything is compatible over it.
Pre 20th C sail, - matte
For your glue 1st or finish first - consider protecting the bond area foot print with high quality painters tape, cut JUSST shy of its full outline, and finish, remove tape, glue.
I am giving Sutherland Welles polymerized Tung oil a close look.
Otherwise, several 100% shellac - rag app or pure Tung oil - rag app.
Renaissance Wax as a final.
About the only way to protect against dust - a case.
Pay attention to ventilation of the case, having it be an oven would not be good.
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Jaager got a reaction from Chuck Seiler in Dremel 8050 micro
Oliver, you provide no location information, so you may not be used to Imperial unit materials, but for me a Rogers Drill Bit Stand #61-80 has continued to be a very useful way to access bits when trying several sizes. About the most expensive choice, but refills you buy in bulk - when you discover which sizes get the most use. I usually remove and replace using a Kelly clamp.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Dremel 8050 micro
Oliver, you provide no location information, so you may not be used to Imperial unit materials, but for me a Rogers Drill Bit Stand #61-80 has continued to be a very useful way to access bits when trying several sizes. About the most expensive choice, but refills you buy in bulk - when you discover which sizes get the most use. I usually remove and replace using a Kelly clamp.
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Jaager got a reaction from Oliver24 in Dremel 8050 micro
I have one and I like it. I agree with John about it not "remembering" the set speed. Mine was one of the lot numbers in the recall. It was done efficiently and there has been no heat problem. Gonna get the keyless chuck with my next Amazon order.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Dremel 8050 micro
I have one and I like it. I agree with John about it not "remembering" the set speed. Mine was one of the lot numbers in the recall. It was done efficiently and there has been no heat problem. Gonna get the keyless chuck with my next Amazon order.
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Jaager got a reaction from thibaultron in Best glue for paper templates?
I forget what is in rubbing alcohol - ethyl - to get it past the federal tax, iso is poison all by itself -- anyway, I was trying to unbond wood that was joined using Franklin Hide Glue. A heat gun and 70% ethyl rubbing alcohol did the job - I was too OCD in my glue coverage and the wood was sort of thick - and it took too much heat to get deep into the bonded layer and the Maple was almost charring on the surface, so I had to find another way to do what I was after. But - a surface bond with a paper pattern has no problem with access - and the heat and 70% ethyl not only broke the bond, the glue formed into little beads that easily rubbed off and the wood grain should not swell as much as using just water. I did not take notes, but I seem to remember that 91% Iso was not as reactive with the glue protein. It might do and that would solve any swelling problem.
The paint thinner ethyl alcohol is 95% with a touch of methanol, etc. Ethanol has an attraction to water that makes it impossible to have 100% if it is exposed to water vapor in the air it is in. I think the pharmacy alcohol is less expensive than the paint store stuff.
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Best glue for paper templates?
I forget what is in rubbing alcohol - ethyl - to get it past the federal tax, iso is poison all by itself -- anyway, I was trying to unbond wood that was joined using Franklin Hide Glue. A heat gun and 70% ethyl rubbing alcohol did the job - I was too OCD in my glue coverage and the wood was sort of thick - and it took too much heat to get deep into the bonded layer and the Maple was almost charring on the surface, so I had to find another way to do what I was after. But - a surface bond with a paper pattern has no problem with access - and the heat and 70% ethyl not only broke the bond, the glue formed into little beads that easily rubbed off and the wood grain should not swell as much as using just water. I did not take notes, but I seem to remember that 91% Iso was not as reactive with the glue protein. It might do and that would solve any swelling problem.
The paint thinner ethyl alcohol is 95% with a touch of methanol, etc. Ethanol has an attraction to water that makes it impossible to have 100% if it is exposed to water vapor in the air it is in. I think the pharmacy alcohol is less expensive than the paint store stuff.
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Byrnes Table Saw Tips (requested)
I have proposed that he consider a sleeveless drum sanding table,that has reversible rotation.
If a chuck with his usual precision and quality is also supplied, all manor of cutting burrs and wood eating attachments could be mounted.
Was there ever a digital read micrometer for the table saw? One of those would be super peachy keen.
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Jaager got a reaction from thibaultron in Best glue for paper templates?
Bob, for removing hide glue, try ethyl alcohol - the rubbing alcohol in pharmacies - not the isopropyl.
Heat and ethanol denatures the protein - changes its shape and no longer bonds.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Byrnes Table Saw Tips (requested)
I have proposed that he consider a sleeveless drum sanding table,that has reversible rotation.
If a chuck with his usual precision and quality is also supplied, all manor of cutting burrs and wood eating attachments could be mounted.
Was there ever a digital read micrometer for the table saw? One of those would be super peachy keen.
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Best glue for paper templates?
Bob, for removing hide glue, try ethyl alcohol - the rubbing alcohol in pharmacies - not the isopropyl.
Heat and ethanol denatures the protein - changes its shape and no longer bonds.
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Jaager got a reaction from Seventynet in Best glue for paper templates?
Bob, for removing hide glue, try ethyl alcohol - the rubbing alcohol in pharmacies - not the isopropyl.
Heat and ethanol denatures the protein - changes its shape and no longer bonds.
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Jaager reacted to Bob Blarney in Best glue for paper templates?
Is there a 'best'? Maybe. I've used -
1. 3M SprayMount (low tack) and 3M Super 77 (high tack), and Weldon Contact Cement. All of these can be removed with spirits of naptha. residues can be a problem
2. rub-on glue sticks, ok but only for items where I didn't worry about removal
3. Elmer's glue - water removes it but can stain
4. Shellac - a traditional adhesive that can be removed with denatured alcohol, and should not interfere with finishes
5. hot hide glue (not Franklin!) - hot water / steam soluble and does not interfere with finishes
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Need help finding schooner plans of about 1860
This may not be a timely solution - The Smithsonian will be closed for =?
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Need help finding schooner plans of about 1860
You could adapt Burrows brig 1845
Smithsonian Warship plan #2 figure 139 HASN
It was never built and is a "clipper" so the lines are sharp.
It was 126 x 30 x 14
reduce the scale of the width and depth to 94%
and it is 119 x 28.25 x 13 the extra depth should not be a problem.
For the length = I count 60 bends.
Burrows
R&S 25"
timbers sided 8.5" so 17" of wood and 8" of space - reduce the space to 2" and you got it to 104"
this version of Williams R&S 19"
Make the timbers side 9.5" and you have a solid wall, which means that for a model, the Davis/Hahn convention can b used = drop every other bend.
Half the work, half the wood - looks like a lot of models.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Gunport framing and planking question
From the ANCRE monograph for the actual Renommee 1744
I do not see lids either. note, the port sill inside overlaps the inner planking a bit and
remember - the sill and lentil are parallel to the deck at its location, not horizontal
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