Jaager
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in metric scales
First we define the terms and scales.
1:96 or 1/8" = 1' is a semi miniature scale often used in ship modeling
although it is 1/2 museum scale (1:48) in any one dimension - the final subject - being a 3D construct is 1/8th the volume
of a museum scale model. It is difficult at best to try to be precise with scantlings in miniature scale- how it looks to the eye
is more important. Under rather than over works better.
HO scale is 1:87 It is about 10% larger than 1:96
You have not stated your actual scale for your model.
With your 7" value - I was thinking thickness, but a contemporary liner would be 4" thick on the main gun deck -
so width it is. the outside limit would be 10" -
1/16th inch is 5.4" in scale .
At 1:96 that is going to look "busy" for plank width.
Get the 1/16" - but use that for the thickness. Use a steel straight edge and VERY sharp knife blade the slice off the plank width from
that. Given the small scale involved, the most I would recommend as far as caulking rep is to add a slight walnut dye to the glue at the
plank edges.
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Amazing optivisor light
After checking this out on Amazon,
there is a 30 sec auto-off option- to save battery. Your last adventure with the 360 setting
the short time was likely due to your activating the saver function.
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Jaager got a reaction from thibaultron in Amazing optivisor light
After checking this out on Amazon,
there is a 30 sec auto-off option- to save battery. Your last adventure with the 360 setting
the short time was likely due to your activating the saver function.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Amazing optivisor light
After checking this out on Amazon,
there is a 30 sec auto-off option- to save battery. Your last adventure with the 360 setting
the short time was likely due to your activating the saver function.
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Jaager got a reaction from thibaultron in Laying out plans in a smaller workshop
Use your 3 in 1 printer scanner. Scan the area, take the file into a program like GIMP or Paintshop Pro - the high end
versions are Photoshop or Painter - adjust for scanner distortion ( determined by scanning a clear meter ruler - taking it into
into the photo program and printing it out - measure the print against the ruler, calculate the % difference - adjust the scan
by that amount of "scale" - print that out - remeasure- repeat adjusting until your get a % that = identity of the printout
with the original ruler - remember that % adjustment - and use it for all scans on your system.
A larger area can be had if you use 8 x 14 paper.
In the photo program, open the scan as a layer in a pre saved canvas. I print out the saved file using Windows Photo Viewer -
I have to make sure that program does not "adjust" to a boarder - that it only prints the file as it is. I prefer PNG to JPG .
My standard canvas sizes - so that no auto adjustments are done by a printer program are 8.5 x 11 = 2197 x 1701 pixels and 8.5 x 14 = 2796 x 1701 pixels
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Laying out plans in a smaller workshop
Use your 3 in 1 printer scanner. Scan the area, take the file into a program like GIMP or Paintshop Pro - the high end
versions are Photoshop or Painter - adjust for scanner distortion ( determined by scanning a clear meter ruler - taking it into
into the photo program and printing it out - measure the print against the ruler, calculate the % difference - adjust the scan
by that amount of "scale" - print that out - remeasure- repeat adjusting until your get a % that = identity of the printout
with the original ruler - remember that % adjustment - and use it for all scans on your system.
A larger area can be had if you use 8 x 14 paper.
In the photo program, open the scan as a layer in a pre saved canvas. I print out the saved file using Windows Photo Viewer -
I have to make sure that program does not "adjust" to a boarder - that it only prints the file as it is. I prefer PNG to JPG .
My standard canvas sizes - so that no auto adjustments are done by a printer program are 8.5 x 11 = 2197 x 1701 pixels and 8.5 x 14 = 2796 x 1701 pixels
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Jaager got a reaction from Nirvana in Laying out plans in a smaller workshop
Use your 3 in 1 printer scanner. Scan the area, take the file into a program like GIMP or Paintshop Pro - the high end
versions are Photoshop or Painter - adjust for scanner distortion ( determined by scanning a clear meter ruler - taking it into
into the photo program and printing it out - measure the print against the ruler, calculate the % difference - adjust the scan
by that amount of "scale" - print that out - remeasure- repeat adjusting until your get a % that = identity of the printout
with the original ruler - remember that % adjustment - and use it for all scans on your system.
A larger area can be had if you use 8 x 14 paper.
In the photo program, open the scan as a layer in a pre saved canvas. I print out the saved file using Windows Photo Viewer -
I have to make sure that program does not "adjust" to a boarder - that it only prints the file as it is. I prefer PNG to JPG .
My standard canvas sizes - so that no auto adjustments are done by a printer program are 8.5 x 11 = 2197 x 1701 pixels and 8.5 x 14 = 2796 x 1701 pixels
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Jaager got a reaction from lmagna in Laying out plans in a smaller workshop
Use your 3 in 1 printer scanner. Scan the area, take the file into a program like GIMP or Paintshop Pro - the high end
versions are Photoshop or Painter - adjust for scanner distortion ( determined by scanning a clear meter ruler - taking it into
into the photo program and printing it out - measure the print against the ruler, calculate the % difference - adjust the scan
by that amount of "scale" - print that out - remeasure- repeat adjusting until your get a % that = identity of the printout
with the original ruler - remember that % adjustment - and use it for all scans on your system.
A larger area can be had if you use 8 x 14 paper.
In the photo program, open the scan as a layer in a pre saved canvas. I print out the saved file using Windows Photo Viewer -
I have to make sure that program does not "adjust" to a boarder - that it only prints the file as it is. I prefer PNG to JPG .
My standard canvas sizes - so that no auto adjustments are done by a printer program are 8.5 x 11 = 2197 x 1701 pixels and 8.5 x 14 = 2796 x 1701 pixels
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in bending planks
Wood contains a glue-like lignin - heat loosens its bonds for bending - the function of the water is to
allow efficient heat transfer. No part of the wood is soluble in water. The prolonged soaking will only
rehydrate the wood - undoing 50 years of seasoning and encouraging any fungus present.
Lignin is affected by anhydrous ammonia - an explosive and dangerous industrial chemical.
Household ammonia is 5-10% - too dilute to make it anything other than smelly water as far as wood bending.
What plane are you bending? Down on the frames = you are stuck with heat bending. Up/down in the plane of
the planking = spilling - not bending.
Now that I think about it- while not a pleasant prospect, if your stock is thick enough - you could carve both curves.
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Jaager got a reaction from bluenose2 in bending planks
Wood contains a glue-like lignin - heat loosens its bonds for bending - the function of the water is to
allow efficient heat transfer. No part of the wood is soluble in water. The prolonged soaking will only
rehydrate the wood - undoing 50 years of seasoning and encouraging any fungus present.
Lignin is affected by anhydrous ammonia - an explosive and dangerous industrial chemical.
Household ammonia is 5-10% - too dilute to make it anything other than smelly water as far as wood bending.
What plane are you bending? Down on the frames = you are stuck with heat bending. Up/down in the plane of
the planking = spilling - not bending.
Now that I think about it- while not a pleasant prospect, if your stock is thick enough - you could carve both curves.
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Jaager got a reaction from thibaultron in Machining copper stock.
The fat from the beef is tallow.
Allergic to beef, I discovered that some Mickey D add it to
the vegetable oil to flavor FF. Never would have had a reason
to know about it otherwise. I seem to recall from a school trip
to Colonial Williamsburg it was used for candles, but did not bother to
know what it was.
Since you are likely to be inside your home and not
a dirt floor shed, you may wish to forego the animal fat and
try Mineral Oil from your pharmacy. The spinning may spray
and a rancid streak on the wall behind your bench or ceiling
above may not be easily seen but still provide an unpleasant odor.
Sears used to sell quarts of light machine oil, can't find it now, so
I use MO instead.
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Machining copper stock.
The fat from the beef is tallow.
Allergic to beef, I discovered that some Mickey D add it to
the vegetable oil to flavor FF. Never would have had a reason
to know about it otherwise. I seem to recall from a school trip
to Colonial Williamsburg it was used for candles, but did not bother to
know what it was.
Since you are likely to be inside your home and not
a dirt floor shed, you may wish to forego the animal fat and
try Mineral Oil from your pharmacy. The spinning may spray
and a rancid streak on the wall behind your bench or ceiling
above may not be easily seen but still provide an unpleasant odor.
Sears used to sell quarts of light machine oil, can't find it now, so
I use MO instead.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Planking (spilling) fan
The angle between each line in the fan is identical. The smaller the angle - the easier it is to get a
position on it. The function is the find equal segment subdivisions for a selected distance.
I think that would be easier to set a point on the midline at the top of a page and draw a line from it to a point on a ruler at the bottom every x mm apart.
T use it, it is better to remeasure the gap after each course of planking. If your gap is for 8 planks,
rather than doing all 8 at the start, measure one, lay it, measure the gap for 7 lay it, measure for 6 -lay it ....
An alternative is to use a proportional divider and pick off the points from it. I think the fan is both easier
and more accurate as well as being a lot less expensive.
The necessity for stealers depends on the hull. There is a minimum width for hull planks. I think it is Davis
that provided the 5-4-3 Planking Rule = width 5 midship 4 bow 3 stern
This being a ratio of the actual plank widths. The slope of the midship bend as well as the size of the ship
will determine how wide a plank can be before it rocks like a teeter totter rather than laying on the frame.
If the width at the ends is too narrow = a stealer is needed.
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Jaager got a reaction from flying_dutchman2 in Licorne 1755 by mtaylor - 3/16" scale - French Frigate - from Hahn plans - Version 2.0 - TERMINATED
Mark,
You might could consider using linen thread as is.
I bought the following from Colophon Book Arts Supply :
Londonderry linen thread
dia dia 1/48 circ 1/48 dia 1/60 circ 1/60
100/3 0.009 0.42 1.3 0.53 1.6
80/3 0.01 0.48 1.5 0.48 1.9
50/3 0.012 0.6 1.9 0.75 2.3
The price is < $3.00 and delivery was fast.
Since it is already 3 strands laid you can use it straight up.
As for holding the blocks
I bought some Dritz Quilting Crystal Glass Head Pins,
that are 1 3/4" long and are # 76 wire gauge
that may not be too large a hole for the rope and
if you nip off the bead and mount it on a piece of wood - there is a lot of up/down play before a block would come off the top
The bead could be nipped after even.
I don't know how Londonderry does their 100/3 - I have trouble laying up 62/1 yarn - it breaks before I can get long lengths
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Jaager got a reaction from Chasseur in Licorne 1755 by mtaylor - 3/16" scale - French Frigate - from Hahn plans - Version 2.0 - TERMINATED
Mark,
You might could consider using linen thread as is.
I bought the following from Colophon Book Arts Supply :
Londonderry linen thread
dia dia 1/48 circ 1/48 dia 1/60 circ 1/60
100/3 0.009 0.42 1.3 0.53 1.6
80/3 0.01 0.48 1.5 0.48 1.9
50/3 0.012 0.6 1.9 0.75 2.3
The price is < $3.00 and delivery was fast.
Since it is already 3 strands laid you can use it straight up.
As for holding the blocks
I bought some Dritz Quilting Crystal Glass Head Pins,
that are 1 3/4" long and are # 76 wire gauge
that may not be too large a hole for the rope and
if you nip off the bead and mount it on a piece of wood - there is a lot of up/down play before a block would come off the top
The bead could be nipped after even.
I don't know how Londonderry does their 100/3 - I have trouble laying up 62/1 yarn - it breaks before I can get long lengths
-
Jaager got a reaction from Piet in Licorne 1755 by mtaylor - 3/16" scale - French Frigate - from Hahn plans - Version 2.0 - TERMINATED
Mark,
You might could consider using linen thread as is.
I bought the following from Colophon Book Arts Supply :
Londonderry linen thread
dia dia 1/48 circ 1/48 dia 1/60 circ 1/60
100/3 0.009 0.42 1.3 0.53 1.6
80/3 0.01 0.48 1.5 0.48 1.9
50/3 0.012 0.6 1.9 0.75 2.3
The price is < $3.00 and delivery was fast.
Since it is already 3 strands laid you can use it straight up.
As for holding the blocks
I bought some Dritz Quilting Crystal Glass Head Pins,
that are 1 3/4" long and are # 76 wire gauge
that may not be too large a hole for the rope and
if you nip off the bead and mount it on a piece of wood - there is a lot of up/down play before a block would come off the top
The bead could be nipped after even.
I don't know how Londonderry does their 100/3 - I have trouble laying up 62/1 yarn - it breaks before I can get long lengths
-
Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Treenail Size Question
From the ASA 1885
Tree nails
outside planking
plank thickness treenail inches
1 7/8
2.5 1
3-3.5 1.125
4-4.5 1.25
5-5.5 1.375
6- < 1.5
I 'll leave it to you to divide by 48 to get model scale
Since the physics did not change and at scale - any difference in scantlings over the 200 years hard to notice
this should be ballpark enough. The largest is #68 gauge at scale - not easy to draw and easy to break.
-
Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Licorne 1755 by mtaylor - 3/16" scale - French Frigate - from Hahn plans - Version 2.0 - TERMINATED
Mark,
You might could consider using linen thread as is.
I bought the following from Colophon Book Arts Supply :
Londonderry linen thread
dia dia 1/48 circ 1/48 dia 1/60 circ 1/60
100/3 0.009 0.42 1.3 0.53 1.6
80/3 0.01 0.48 1.5 0.48 1.9
50/3 0.012 0.6 1.9 0.75 2.3
The price is < $3.00 and delivery was fast.
Since it is already 3 strands laid you can use it straight up.
As for holding the blocks
I bought some Dritz Quilting Crystal Glass Head Pins,
that are 1 3/4" long and are # 76 wire gauge
that may not be too large a hole for the rope and
if you nip off the bead and mount it on a piece of wood - there is a lot of up/down play before a block would come off the top
The bead could be nipped after even.
I don't know how Londonderry does their 100/3 - I have trouble laying up 62/1 yarn - it breaks before I can get long lengths
-
Jaager got a reaction from popeye the sailor in Licorne 1755 by mtaylor - 3/16" scale - French Frigate - from Hahn plans - Version 2.0 - TERMINATED
Mark,
You might could consider using linen thread as is.
I bought the following from Colophon Book Arts Supply :
Londonderry linen thread
dia dia 1/48 circ 1/48 dia 1/60 circ 1/60
100/3 0.009 0.42 1.3 0.53 1.6
80/3 0.01 0.48 1.5 0.48 1.9
50/3 0.012 0.6 1.9 0.75 2.3
The price is < $3.00 and delivery was fast.
Since it is already 3 strands laid you can use it straight up.
As for holding the blocks
I bought some Dritz Quilting Crystal Glass Head Pins,
that are 1 3/4" long and are # 76 wire gauge
that may not be too large a hole for the rope and
if you nip off the bead and mount it on a piece of wood - there is a lot of up/down play before a block would come off the top
The bead could be nipped after even.
I don't know how Londonderry does their 100/3 - I have trouble laying up 62/1 yarn - it breaks before I can get long lengths
-
Jaager got a reaction from lmagna in Licorne 1755 by mtaylor - 3/16" scale - French Frigate - from Hahn plans - Version 2.0 - TERMINATED
Mark,
You might could consider using linen thread as is.
I bought the following from Colophon Book Arts Supply :
Londonderry linen thread
dia dia 1/48 circ 1/48 dia 1/60 circ 1/60
100/3 0.009 0.42 1.3 0.53 1.6
80/3 0.01 0.48 1.5 0.48 1.9
50/3 0.012 0.6 1.9 0.75 2.3
The price is < $3.00 and delivery was fast.
Since it is already 3 strands laid you can use it straight up.
As for holding the blocks
I bought some Dritz Quilting Crystal Glass Head Pins,
that are 1 3/4" long and are # 76 wire gauge
that may not be too large a hole for the rope and
if you nip off the bead and mount it on a piece of wood - there is a lot of up/down play before a block would come off the top
The bead could be nipped after even.
I don't know how Londonderry does their 100/3 - I have trouble laying up 62/1 yarn - it breaks before I can get long lengths
-
Jaager got a reaction from lmagna in Treenail Size Question
From the ASA 1885
Tree nails
outside planking
plank thickness treenail inches
1 7/8
2.5 1
3-3.5 1.125
4-4.5 1.25
5-5.5 1.375
6- < 1.5
I 'll leave it to you to divide by 48 to get model scale
Since the physics did not change and at scale - any difference in scantlings over the 200 years hard to notice
this should be ballpark enough. The largest is #68 gauge at scale - not easy to draw and easy to break.
-
Jaager got a reaction from shipmodel in Licorne 1755 by mtaylor - 3/16" scale - French Frigate - from Hahn plans - Version 2.0 - TERMINATED
Mark,
You might could consider using linen thread as is.
I bought the following from Colophon Book Arts Supply :
Londonderry linen thread
dia dia 1/48 circ 1/48 dia 1/60 circ 1/60
100/3 0.009 0.42 1.3 0.53 1.6
80/3 0.01 0.48 1.5 0.48 1.9
50/3 0.012 0.6 1.9 0.75 2.3
The price is < $3.00 and delivery was fast.
Since it is already 3 strands laid you can use it straight up.
As for holding the blocks
I bought some Dritz Quilting Crystal Glass Head Pins,
that are 1 3/4" long and are # 76 wire gauge
that may not be too large a hole for the rope and
if you nip off the bead and mount it on a piece of wood - there is a lot of up/down play before a block would come off the top
The bead could be nipped after even.
I don't know how Londonderry does their 100/3 - I have trouble laying up 62/1 yarn - it breaks before I can get long lengths
-
Jaager got a reaction from Omega1234 in Licorne 1755 by mtaylor - 3/16" scale - French Frigate - from Hahn plans - Version 2.0 - TERMINATED
Mark,
You might could consider using linen thread as is.
I bought the following from Colophon Book Arts Supply :
Londonderry linen thread
dia dia 1/48 circ 1/48 dia 1/60 circ 1/60
100/3 0.009 0.42 1.3 0.53 1.6
80/3 0.01 0.48 1.5 0.48 1.9
50/3 0.012 0.6 1.9 0.75 2.3
The price is < $3.00 and delivery was fast.
Since it is already 3 strands laid you can use it straight up.
As for holding the blocks
I bought some Dritz Quilting Crystal Glass Head Pins,
that are 1 3/4" long and are # 76 wire gauge
that may not be too large a hole for the rope and
if you nip off the bead and mount it on a piece of wood - there is a lot of up/down play before a block would come off the top
The bead could be nipped after even.
I don't know how Londonderry does their 100/3 - I have trouble laying up 62/1 yarn - it breaks before I can get long lengths
-
Jaager got a reaction from thibaultron in Treenail Size Question
From the ASA 1885
Tree nails
outside planking
plank thickness treenail inches
1 7/8
2.5 1
3-3.5 1.125
4-4.5 1.25
5-5.5 1.375
6- < 1.5
I 'll leave it to you to divide by 48 to get model scale
Since the physics did not change and at scale - any difference in scantlings over the 200 years hard to notice
this should be ballpark enough. The largest is #68 gauge at scale - not easy to draw and easy to break.
-
Jaager got a reaction from EJ_L in Licorne 1755 by mtaylor - 3/16" scale - French Frigate - from Hahn plans - Version 2.0 - TERMINATED
Mark,
You might could consider using linen thread as is.
I bought the following from Colophon Book Arts Supply :
Londonderry linen thread
dia dia 1/48 circ 1/48 dia 1/60 circ 1/60
100/3 0.009 0.42 1.3 0.53 1.6
80/3 0.01 0.48 1.5 0.48 1.9
50/3 0.012 0.6 1.9 0.75 2.3
The price is < $3.00 and delivery was fast.
Since it is already 3 strands laid you can use it straight up.
As for holding the blocks
I bought some Dritz Quilting Crystal Glass Head Pins,
that are 1 3/4" long and are # 76 wire gauge
that may not be too large a hole for the rope and
if you nip off the bead and mount it on a piece of wood - there is a lot of up/down play before a block would come off the top
The bead could be nipped after even.
I don't know how Londonderry does their 100/3 - I have trouble laying up 62/1 yarn - it breaks before I can get long lengths
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