Jaager
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Jaager got a reaction from Martin W in Carving tools, books and carving woods discussion
Mike,
Swiss Pear is not a variety of pear. Pyrus communis is the common European Pear.
It is used as root stock for fruit pear varieties? The tree itself does not produce desirable
fruit but is a horticultural specimen? If the wood is steamed, it turns a uniform pink.
This treatment is the "Swiss" part. I believe that the wood from any type of pear -
Asian or European is excellent for any part of a wooden ship model: from keel and
frames to spars. If your stock did not split and check into useless fragments as it
dried or bark beetles did not mine it out , you may come to regret shortening the pieces.
Most any pear wood has a color that looks good as keel, frames and planking. It is
hard, tight grained, does not easily split if you carve against the grain - and seems
almost ivory-like in consistency.
When I posted earlier about Bradford Pear not having tight grain, that was the wrong term,
what I meant was that the tree grows rapidly - so the bands of Spring and Summer woods are
wide. For some parts it is possible to have what shows be grain free - all of one season. I have a bit of
Boxwood from an old hedge that had grown very slowly. The rings are very narrow and very
close together.
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Jaager got a reaction from WackoWolf in Carving tools, books and carving woods discussion
Mike,
Swiss Pear is not a variety of pear. Pyrus communis is the common European Pear.
It is used as root stock for fruit pear varieties? The tree itself does not produce desirable
fruit but is a horticultural specimen? If the wood is steamed, it turns a uniform pink.
This treatment is the "Swiss" part. I believe that the wood from any type of pear -
Asian or European is excellent for any part of a wooden ship model: from keel and
frames to spars. If your stock did not split and check into useless fragments as it
dried or bark beetles did not mine it out , you may come to regret shortening the pieces.
Most any pear wood has a color that looks good as keel, frames and planking. It is
hard, tight grained, does not easily split if you carve against the grain - and seems
almost ivory-like in consistency.
When I posted earlier about Bradford Pear not having tight grain, that was the wrong term,
what I meant was that the tree grows rapidly - so the bands of Spring and Summer woods are
wide. For some parts it is possible to have what shows be grain free - all of one season. I have a bit of
Boxwood from an old hedge that had grown very slowly. The rings are very narrow and very
close together.
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Carving tools, books and carving woods discussion
Mike,
Swiss Pear is not a variety of pear. Pyrus communis is the common European Pear.
It is used as root stock for fruit pear varieties? The tree itself does not produce desirable
fruit but is a horticultural specimen? If the wood is steamed, it turns a uniform pink.
This treatment is the "Swiss" part. I believe that the wood from any type of pear -
Asian or European is excellent for any part of a wooden ship model: from keel and
frames to spars. If your stock did not split and check into useless fragments as it
dried or bark beetles did not mine it out , you may come to regret shortening the pieces.
Most any pear wood has a color that looks good as keel, frames and planking. It is
hard, tight grained, does not easily split if you carve against the grain - and seems
almost ivory-like in consistency.
When I posted earlier about Bradford Pear not having tight grain, that was the wrong term,
what I meant was that the tree grows rapidly - so the bands of Spring and Summer woods are
wide. For some parts it is possible to have what shows be grain free - all of one season. I have a bit of
Boxwood from an old hedge that had grown very slowly. The rings are very narrow and very
close together.
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Jaager got a reaction from EricWilliamMarshall in Carving tools, books and carving woods discussion
Barlett pear is a variety of eatable pear. It is actually a variety of Pyrus communis - the tree that is
the source of what is called Swiss Pear. Swiss Pear is not a tree name or growth location, it means that the wood
has been steamed. I believe this oxidizes the polyphenols in the wood - in any case - it turns the wood into
a relatively uniform pinkish color.
Bradford Pear is a cousin that is a horticultural specimen. It does not produce significant fruit, but it is urban hardy,
attractive flowers and grows relatively fast. Was or still is popular as a street tree. It has one unfortunate characteristic -
the branches leave the trunk at an acute angle - rather than horizontal. The more vertical form looks good and is
predictable from design point of view. The problem is that when the larger trees experience wind storms, the branches
peal like banana skins. A good way for us to get a lot of sizable lumber stock. The other part - if you self harvest it -
because of the branch angle, it is difficult to get much stock with right angle grain for knees or breast hooks.
Actually, I think most any species of Pear would produce excellent wood for our purposes, the problem is obtaining it.
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Jaager got a reaction from thibaultron in Laburnum anagyroides or "golden rain"
The grain looks bold and distinctive. I am thinking that it would not scale all that well
and could distract from the actual model it would be used on.
It may make an interesting base for a display cabinet.
It is hard enough to be used for structures that would be hidden or if it is closed pore -
painted.
It contains a toxin, so you may wish to avoid burning it -if the combustion products can
enter your breathing space.
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Laburnum anagyroides or "golden rain"
The grain looks bold and distinctive. I am thinking that it would not scale all that well
and could distract from the actual model it would be used on.
It may make an interesting base for a display cabinet.
It is hard enough to be used for structures that would be hidden or if it is closed pore -
painted.
It contains a toxin, so you may wish to avoid burning it -if the combustion products can
enter your breathing space.
-
Jaager got a reaction from Baker in Laburnum anagyroides or "golden rain"
The grain looks bold and distinctive. I am thinking that it would not scale all that well
and could distract from the actual model it would be used on.
It may make an interesting base for a display cabinet.
It is hard enough to be used for structures that would be hidden or if it is closed pore -
painted.
It contains a toxin, so you may wish to avoid burning it -if the combustion products can
enter your breathing space.
-
Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Laburnum anagyroides or "golden rain"
The grain looks bold and distinctive. I am thinking that it would not scale all that well
and could distract from the actual model it would be used on.
It may make an interesting base for a display cabinet.
It is hard enough to be used for structures that would be hidden or if it is closed pore -
painted.
It contains a toxin, so you may wish to avoid burning it -if the combustion products can
enter your breathing space.
-
Jaager got a reaction from Robin Lous in Contact cement for hull plating
The original Model Shipways had a catalog with methods included. One of them
was to attach copper plates to a hull using Weldwood contact cement. They also
suggested heating the plates in a flame to give each plate a different shade and
remove the new penny look. I did both to the hull of the schooner Eagle.
The look was attractive to me. Then... after several years the plates began to fall
off. The wood behind the copper was copper colored.
I do not know if it was the copper or the oxidized layer that caused the bond failure.
I will not do that again though.
If I were of a mind to try that again, I would use a clear thin epoxy - as much of a PITA -
doing that much epoxy would be. It is definitely more involved than fixing eye bolts and such.
My current thinking is to use 100% rag bond dissertation paper, sealed and painted with actual copper
paint and attached with PVA. Then do the verdigris reaction step.
The adhesive backed foil looks much easier, but I do not trust the long term bond and it can't be heated
because of the adhesive.
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Jaager got a reaction from thibaultron in Contact cement for hull plating
The original Model Shipways had a catalog with methods included. One of them
was to attach copper plates to a hull using Weldwood contact cement. They also
suggested heating the plates in a flame to give each plate a different shade and
remove the new penny look. I did both to the hull of the schooner Eagle.
The look was attractive to me. Then... after several years the plates began to fall
off. The wood behind the copper was copper colored.
I do not know if it was the copper or the oxidized layer that caused the bond failure.
I will not do that again though.
If I were of a mind to try that again, I would use a clear thin epoxy - as much of a PITA -
doing that much epoxy would be. It is definitely more involved than fixing eye bolts and such.
My current thinking is to use 100% rag bond dissertation paper, sealed and painted with actual copper
paint and attached with PVA. Then do the verdigris reaction step.
The adhesive backed foil looks much easier, but I do not trust the long term bond and it can't be heated
because of the adhesive.
-
Jaager got a reaction from thibaultron in Bending with heat only
The components of the wood are not soluble in water. The function of
water in bending wood is:
to transfer heat more efficiently
to retain the heat longer
to inhibit the cooking or charring of the surface of the wood where the heat is applied.
With thin wood, the difference in heat transfer with and minus water may not be significant.
The balance is to apply enough heat to liquefy the lignin without oxidizing the wood.
The negative effect of water is that it swells the wood fibers and leaves a previously sanded
surface uneven. Most of the time, this swelling effect only occurs with the first exposure to water,
if water is applied, allowed to dry and then sanded - subsequent water usually does not swell the wood
any further.
To readdress a subject of folklore: aqueous/household ammonia does not help in bending - other than what
the water it is in does. The ammonia part only has negative effects.
It takes liquid ( anhydrous ) ammonia to debond lignin for bending. This is an industrial chemical: even if
a civilian could obtain it - that would be a really bad idea.
-
Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Contact cement for hull plating
The original Model Shipways had a catalog with methods included. One of them
was to attach copper plates to a hull using Weldwood contact cement. They also
suggested heating the plates in a flame to give each plate a different shade and
remove the new penny look. I did both to the hull of the schooner Eagle.
The look was attractive to me. Then... after several years the plates began to fall
off. The wood behind the copper was copper colored.
I do not know if it was the copper or the oxidized layer that caused the bond failure.
I will not do that again though.
If I were of a mind to try that again, I would use a clear thin epoxy - as much of a PITA -
doing that much epoxy would be. It is definitely more involved than fixing eye bolts and such.
My current thinking is to use 100% rag bond dissertation paper, sealed and painted with actual copper
paint and attached with PVA. Then do the verdigris reaction step.
The adhesive backed foil looks much easier, but I do not trust the long term bond and it can't be heated
because of the adhesive.
-
Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Contact cement for hull plating
The original Model Shipways had a catalog with methods included. One of them
was to attach copper plates to a hull using Weldwood contact cement. They also
suggested heating the plates in a flame to give each plate a different shade and
remove the new penny look. I did both to the hull of the schooner Eagle.
The look was attractive to me. Then... after several years the plates began to fall
off. The wood behind the copper was copper colored.
I do not know if it was the copper or the oxidized layer that caused the bond failure.
I will not do that again though.
If I were of a mind to try that again, I would use a clear thin epoxy - as much of a PITA -
doing that much epoxy would be. It is definitely more involved than fixing eye bolts and such.
My current thinking is to use 100% rag bond dissertation paper, sealed and painted with actual copper
paint and attached with PVA. Then do the verdigris reaction step.
The adhesive backed foil looks much easier, but I do not trust the long term bond and it can't be heated
because of the adhesive.
-
Jaager got a reaction from EJ_L in Bending with heat only
The components of the wood are not soluble in water. The function of
water in bending wood is:
to transfer heat more efficiently
to retain the heat longer
to inhibit the cooking or charring of the surface of the wood where the heat is applied.
With thin wood, the difference in heat transfer with and minus water may not be significant.
The balance is to apply enough heat to liquefy the lignin without oxidizing the wood.
The negative effect of water is that it swells the wood fibers and leaves a previously sanded
surface uneven. Most of the time, this swelling effect only occurs with the first exposure to water,
if water is applied, allowed to dry and then sanded - subsequent water usually does not swell the wood
any further.
To readdress a subject of folklore: aqueous/household ammonia does not help in bending - other than what
the water it is in does. The ammonia part only has negative effects.
It takes liquid ( anhydrous ) ammonia to debond lignin for bending. This is an industrial chemical: even if
a civilian could obtain it - that would be a really bad idea.
-
Jaager got a reaction from Seventynet in Bending with heat only
The components of the wood are not soluble in water. The function of
water in bending wood is:
to transfer heat more efficiently
to retain the heat longer
to inhibit the cooking or charring of the surface of the wood where the heat is applied.
With thin wood, the difference in heat transfer with and minus water may not be significant.
The balance is to apply enough heat to liquefy the lignin without oxidizing the wood.
The negative effect of water is that it swells the wood fibers and leaves a previously sanded
surface uneven. Most of the time, this swelling effect only occurs with the first exposure to water,
if water is applied, allowed to dry and then sanded - subsequent water usually does not swell the wood
any further.
To readdress a subject of folklore: aqueous/household ammonia does not help in bending - other than what
the water it is in does. The ammonia part only has negative effects.
It takes liquid ( anhydrous ) ammonia to debond lignin for bending. This is an industrial chemical: even if
a civilian could obtain it - that would be a really bad idea.
-
Jaager got a reaction from dvm27 in Bending with heat only
The components of the wood are not soluble in water. The function of
water in bending wood is:
to transfer heat more efficiently
to retain the heat longer
to inhibit the cooking or charring of the surface of the wood where the heat is applied.
With thin wood, the difference in heat transfer with and minus water may not be significant.
The balance is to apply enough heat to liquefy the lignin without oxidizing the wood.
The negative effect of water is that it swells the wood fibers and leaves a previously sanded
surface uneven. Most of the time, this swelling effect only occurs with the first exposure to water,
if water is applied, allowed to dry and then sanded - subsequent water usually does not swell the wood
any further.
To readdress a subject of folklore: aqueous/household ammonia does not help in bending - other than what
the water it is in does. The ammonia part only has negative effects.
It takes liquid ( anhydrous ) ammonia to debond lignin for bending. This is an industrial chemical: even if
a civilian could obtain it - that would be a really bad idea.
-
Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Cleaning model prior staining and painting
I believe that the swabs are 70% Isopropyl OH. That is the concentration that is
most harmful to bacteria. The 91% probably works better for cooling and
as an after shave- if you are a nonsmoker and do not need perfume.
I predict that the cost per volume will weigh heavily against the swabs.
If removing the top layer of the planks does not work out, you could always
drop back and punt: Stop by Wood Craft - get a packet or two of thin veneer
with an appropriate grain and cover the soiled planking with a new layer.
If you choose Maple,Birch,or Beech, it can be dyed or stained and sealed before it is
attached. Just protect the glue surface side with masking tape or painters tape during
the stain and seal steps, not necessary if you dye. The veneer - you should be able to
cut with scissors and a metal straight edge and #11 blade.
-
Jaager got a reaction from davec in Bending with heat only
The components of the wood are not soluble in water. The function of
water in bending wood is:
to transfer heat more efficiently
to retain the heat longer
to inhibit the cooking or charring of the surface of the wood where the heat is applied.
With thin wood, the difference in heat transfer with and minus water may not be significant.
The balance is to apply enough heat to liquefy the lignin without oxidizing the wood.
The negative effect of water is that it swells the wood fibers and leaves a previously sanded
surface uneven. Most of the time, this swelling effect only occurs with the first exposure to water,
if water is applied, allowed to dry and then sanded - subsequent water usually does not swell the wood
any further.
To readdress a subject of folklore: aqueous/household ammonia does not help in bending - other than what
the water it is in does. The ammonia part only has negative effects.
It takes liquid ( anhydrous ) ammonia to debond lignin for bending. This is an industrial chemical: even if
a civilian could obtain it - that would be a really bad idea.
-
Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Bending with heat only
The components of the wood are not soluble in water. The function of
water in bending wood is:
to transfer heat more efficiently
to retain the heat longer
to inhibit the cooking or charring of the surface of the wood where the heat is applied.
With thin wood, the difference in heat transfer with and minus water may not be significant.
The balance is to apply enough heat to liquefy the lignin without oxidizing the wood.
The negative effect of water is that it swells the wood fibers and leaves a previously sanded
surface uneven. Most of the time, this swelling effect only occurs with the first exposure to water,
if water is applied, allowed to dry and then sanded - subsequent water usually does not swell the wood
any further.
To readdress a subject of folklore: aqueous/household ammonia does not help in bending - other than what
the water it is in does. The ammonia part only has negative effects.
It takes liquid ( anhydrous ) ammonia to debond lignin for bending. This is an industrial chemical: even if
a civilian could obtain it - that would be a really bad idea.
-
Jaager got a reaction from WackoWolf in Bending with heat only
The components of the wood are not soluble in water. The function of
water in bending wood is:
to transfer heat more efficiently
to retain the heat longer
to inhibit the cooking or charring of the surface of the wood where the heat is applied.
With thin wood, the difference in heat transfer with and minus water may not be significant.
The balance is to apply enough heat to liquefy the lignin without oxidizing the wood.
The negative effect of water is that it swells the wood fibers and leaves a previously sanded
surface uneven. Most of the time, this swelling effect only occurs with the first exposure to water,
if water is applied, allowed to dry and then sanded - subsequent water usually does not swell the wood
any further.
To readdress a subject of folklore: aqueous/household ammonia does not help in bending - other than what
the water it is in does. The ammonia part only has negative effects.
It takes liquid ( anhydrous ) ammonia to debond lignin for bending. This is an industrial chemical: even if
a civilian could obtain it - that would be a really bad idea.
-
Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Bending with heat only
The components of the wood are not soluble in water. The function of
water in bending wood is:
to transfer heat more efficiently
to retain the heat longer
to inhibit the cooking or charring of the surface of the wood where the heat is applied.
With thin wood, the difference in heat transfer with and minus water may not be significant.
The balance is to apply enough heat to liquefy the lignin without oxidizing the wood.
The negative effect of water is that it swells the wood fibers and leaves a previously sanded
surface uneven. Most of the time, this swelling effect only occurs with the first exposure to water,
if water is applied, allowed to dry and then sanded - subsequent water usually does not swell the wood
any further.
To readdress a subject of folklore: aqueous/household ammonia does not help in bending - other than what
the water it is in does. The ammonia part only has negative effects.
It takes liquid ( anhydrous ) ammonia to debond lignin for bending. This is an industrial chemical: even if
a civilian could obtain it - that would be a really bad idea.
-
Jaager got a reaction from FriedClams in Build burnout
Looking up what this is: a 20th C. steel warship at a large scale for this type of vessel -
A warship has been the most complicated example of technology of its culture for at least 500 years.
It incorporates just about everything the technology can build.. All other types of plastic model subjects would rate as a
sub-assembly on a warship.
What you are doing is all about the detail. You pretty much need to be obsessed and
inspired to do it correctly. Unless you are doing this for pay, you don't need to
endure the agony if you are not driven to do it.
You could work different skills and try a wooden cutter or pilot schooner and see if the inspiration comes back later.
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Jaager got a reaction from FriedClams in Build burnout
How far are you with HMS Beagle?
Since there are no NMM plans specific to Beagle - except the frame construction sheet,
I am thinking that the kit is for the 10 gun brig class - taken from Cherokee - Rolla - or another sister.
In the refit for the 1831 voyage - the deck heights were changed - the stern altered - a mizzen mast added -
AND - if you look at Marquardt, the frame diagram - while all other station timbers were 9" and the space 4" -
in section 0 - B - the timbers are 10" and the space 6". On an original build, this would make no sense.
If, however, they wanted to lengthen the ship for the voyage, placing a new section amidships would be the way.
I am thinking that Marquardt fit 3 is 68" longer than the kit hull. If you have not started, you can patch in an additional
mold in the 0 space - just duplicate the dead flat mold. The deck gear should fit better. If you raise the bulwarks and decks ,
you could mimic the 1831 version by doing it the way the ship yard did.
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Cleaning model prior staining and painting
I believe that the swabs are 70% Isopropyl OH. That is the concentration that is
most harmful to bacteria. The 91% probably works better for cooling and
as an after shave- if you are a nonsmoker and do not need perfume.
I predict that the cost per volume will weigh heavily against the swabs.
If removing the top layer of the planks does not work out, you could always
drop back and punt: Stop by Wood Craft - get a packet or two of thin veneer
with an appropriate grain and cover the soiled planking with a new layer.
If you choose Maple,Birch,or Beech, it can be dyed or stained and sealed before it is
attached. Just protect the glue surface side with masking tape or painters tape during
the stain and seal steps, not necessary if you dye. The veneer - you should be able to
cut with scissors and a metal straight edge and #11 blade.
-
Jaager got a reaction from thibaultron in Cleaning model prior staining and painting
I believe that the swabs are 70% Isopropyl OH. That is the concentration that is
most harmful to bacteria. The 91% probably works better for cooling and
as an after shave- if you are a nonsmoker and do not need perfume.
I predict that the cost per volume will weigh heavily against the swabs.
If removing the top layer of the planks does not work out, you could always
drop back and punt: Stop by Wood Craft - get a packet or two of thin veneer
with an appropriate grain and cover the soiled planking with a new layer.
If you choose Maple,Birch,or Beech, it can be dyed or stained and sealed before it is
attached. Just protect the glue surface side with masking tape or painters tape during
the stain and seal steps, not necessary if you dye. The veneer - you should be able to
cut with scissors and a metal straight edge and #11 blade.
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